简介
Modern electronics contain a dizzying array of internal data and power cable connectors—and nothing brings a project crashing to a halt like accidentally breaking a connector.
Use this guide to familiarize yourself with the most common types of connectors, and learn the tools and techniques you’ll need to disconnect (and reconnect) them safely.
- ZIF Connectors
- No-Fuss Ribbon Cable Connectors
- Locking Tab Connectors
- Other Ribbon Cable Connectors
- Flat-Topped (Low Profile) Connectors
- Press Connectors
- Coaxial Cable Connectors
- Display Cable Connectors
- Sliding Connectors
- Large Sliding Connectors
- JST Connectors
- Power Cable Connectors
- Bundled Cable Connectors
- Glued-Down Cables
- SATA Cables
- Soldered Connections
- Rare & Exotic Connectors (Part 1)
- Rare & Exotic Connectors (Part 2)
你所需要的
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To disconnect the cable, use a spudger, opening tool, or a clean fingernail to flip up the locking flap—this is the unlocked position.
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Once the flap is in the unlocked position, use tweezers or your fingers to gently pull the cable out of its socket.
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Simply pull these "no-fuss" ribbon cables straight out of their socket to disconnect them.
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Use a spudger to gently push up on alternating sides of the plastic tab until it clicks up into its unlocked position.
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Once the tab is unlocked, you can gently pull the cable straight out of its socket.
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To disconnect this connector, use a spudger or clean fingernail to lift the looped tab away from the connector.
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Then, use the tip of the spudger to push the plastic locking tab away from the socket—it should only move about 1–2 mm.
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You can now pull the cable straight out of its socket.
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Fully insert the cable into its socket under the locking tab.
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Loop the tab around the front of the connector.
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Use a spudger or clean fingernail to push in the locking tab, securing the cable.
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To disconnect the cable, use the flat end of a spudger to lift and unclip the outer edges of the connector. You may need to use your fingers to pull the connector completely out of its socket.
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Place a spudger or an opening tool under the connector's edge and pry straight up to disconnect it.
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Although more rare, some larger pop-style connectors might have a built-in pull-tab for easy disconnection. Lift straight up to disconnect these.
I have an idea,/Request that I'm sure would be worth the effort, and fit right into this subject. how about a step by step guide on fixing the mistake of fudging up the socket yes on the mother board Guilty, right now it's a 500 dollar paper weight!! ! And I'm sure there's a long line of us,right guys, since you guy's are Awesome at it! Where to source the female sockets that's go onto the board and the proper steps and tecniques , would be greatly appreciated, keep up the great work!!
Sorry to hear that! My usual advice would be to take it to a repair shop that performs board-level repairs (a.k.a. microsoldering). Replacing a damaged connector socket typically requires a lot of skill, practice, and tools that likely cost more than the full retail price of your device. So, it’s not exactly DIY-friendly! But if you’re interested, you can find a good introduction to board-level repairs on our YouTube channel.
Is there a specific name for this type of connector? (brand, etc).
Stack-type Board-To-Board connector. JAE is a big manufacturer. FPC (Flexible Printed Circuit), what we commonly know as flex cables usually - is considered a board in this context.
"To reconnect, align the connector carefully over its socket and press down with your fingertip—first on one side, then the other—until it clicks into place."
This is ambiguous because it isn't clear to readers which is the 'side' of the connector referred to. For example, with a long rectangular connector, do you mean one of the short sides, or one of the long sides? I fear I may have got it wrong - after replacing my iPhone XS battery the bottom speaker no longer worked.
I disassembled the phone and disconnected and reconnected the connectors, to no avail, so reassembled the phone and ordered a replacement speaker. After fitting that, the speaker still doesn't work but unfortunately my screen now has a very bright stripe a few millimetres wide down the RHS. I didn't apply any excessive forces while lifting the screen and working on the phone - in fact it was easier to remove than the first time I opened it. The only thing I can think of is I used excessive isopropyl alcohol when cleaning the seal off.
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在这个步骤中使用的工具:Tweezers$3.99
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To disconnect the cable, slide a thin, ESD-safe pry tool or angled tweezers under the metal neck of the connector (as close to the head as possible) and lift straight up from the board.
Hello, I am repairing a tablet and the head to my coaxial cable fell off. What do I do?
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Disconnecting these cables is a two-step process. First, gently push the tip of a spudger under the metal buckle to unclip it, then swing it over the socket.
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Next, hold the buckle and cable together and gently pull the connector straight out of its socket.
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Grip the cable and buckle together and insert the connector fully into its socket.
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Flip the buckle over the socket and use a spudger to press the buckle down until it clicks into place.
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To disconnect, use the point of a spudger to push on alternating sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket.
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Most of the time, these connectors will have a lip or a tab along the top that can be used to push the connector out of its socket.
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If there's no clear spot to use a tool, check out bundled cable connectors.
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To disconnect, use the wide end of a spudger to push on the connector tab to slide it out of its socket.
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To disconnect the cable, first try pushing on alternating sides of the connector, like small sliding connectors.
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If that doesn't work, use a pair of tweezers to firmly grip the sides of the connector and pull straight away from the socket. Hold the tweezers closer to the connector to get a better grip.
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If the connector's socket has cutouts, you can insert the arms of a pair of sharp tweezers into the cutouts and gently push the connector out of its socket.
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Squeeze the tab against the connector and pull straight up to disconnect it.
Hallo, ich habe genau wie auf dem Bild bei meiner PS3 Slim ein ähnliches Kabel von dem Laufwerk zu trennen versucht. Beim Ziehen ist nicht das Kabel abgerissen, sondern die Anschlusstelle an der Platine hat sich auf einer Seite gelöst. Muss man hier nun das Teil wieder dran löten oder kann man es irgendwie mit Klebern fixieren?
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Grip all the cables at once as close to the connector as possible and pull the connector slowly and steadily out of its socket.
Lijkt me dat je hier eerst vlak over het kunststofdeel van het kabelcontact, in het midden waar hij lager is, smalle dunne schroevendraaier steek zodat het kunststof iets omhoog buigt en het borgnokje vrij komt zodat je hem eruit kan trekken!
Terug gewoon insteken.
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To remove it, carefully slide a spudger or opening pick under the cable to separate its adhesive.
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在这个步骤中使用的工具:FixHub | Power Series Soldering Toolkit$299.95
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Not to worry! A soldering iron makes quick work of these little guys.
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Inspect the connector carefully, and try to determine how it disconnects.
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If you're still having trouble, look for guides of similar devices to see if they provide any clues, or ask for help in our Answers forum.
Hi,
I've just been wrangling with a 25ish year old Kenwood stereo. There were some connectors on it that I couldn't work out - which led me to this guide. The specific connectors aren't shown here. It turns out theybare spring-loaded, and you have to push the upper part (that I initially thought was a plug) down into the board - and this releases the ribbon cable. On the stereo, there are some shorter ones (8-pin), and some longer ones (15pin). On the longer ones, if you look close enough, they helpfully say ‘push' on them.
I've taken some photos of you'd like to add them to this guide?
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Photo 1: A large metal cover latches over the full connector, locking it in place.
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Photo 2: A metal tab needs to be pushed in—instead of pulled out, to unlock the flat cable.
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Still having trouble? Ask our Answers forum for help.
For more electronics skills, click here.
Still having trouble? Ask our Answers forum for help.
For more electronics skills, click here.
387等其他人完成本指南。
25条评论
Beautiful work. However, my modern LCD flat screen TV set uses the "No-Fuss Ribbon Cable Connectors" and I think they are fairly common in this application.
"Step 2 — No-Fuss Ribbon Cable Connectors
Occasionally, you'll find a ribbon cable that simply pulls out of its socket, with no retaining flap.
<snip>
These kinds of connectors are fairly rare, so check carefully for a way to release the connector before you resort to pulling on the ribbon cable."
This was great! thanks for the detailed pictures. I have a question though on a very specific port used on apple tv 1.
here's the link to my post
It's important to note that ZIF connectors often do require force to insert, for example the digitizer ribbon cable on the Nexus 6, which has a bit of negative tension from being curved. It has to be pushed in using the little raised portion with a fingernail, and held so the line on the cable matches the line on the PCB before closing the retention bracket or else it will not connect properly.
I have a visio T-con board that has two flat ribbon connectors the one to the screen as a flip open latch you can do with your finger nail the other has a thin metal strip that over hangs the end on both sides. And ideas on how this one opens up? Rowland
Great post!
Would be great if Jeff or someone could help me with my question, doesn't look as though that connector type is covered in the the post above. Its listed here - Need help with these Connector latches
TIA,
Norm
good page, but I was looking for the display connectors for ipad air 2. They seem to just push on, but the pressure is so light I am not confident that they are seating correctly. It won’t turn on at any rate though the screen briefly comes up at boot.
Those are pop connectors—see Step 4. Align them carefully, and press them down; you should feel them click into place.
I recently ran into a FFC (Flat Flex Connector) type I didn’t know how to open exactly, and this page only refers to the flip-lock type. Turns out it was a slide-lock connector and the diagrams on the page below were very helpful. I simply used my tweezers to push on the two tabs towards the cable, the actuator moved easily once you knew which way to apply force.
Doing ifixit versions of these diagrams would be VERY helpful.
Slide Lock Diagram: ''https://gct.co/Images/products/ffc-con...
Flip Lock Diagram: ''https://gct.co/Images/products/ffc-con...
Parent Page: ''https://gct.co/ffc-connector''
Googling to find these hints was VERY difficult not knowing the terminology. But this ifixit page was at the top of the stack, update to save the next guy half an hour googling?
(Updating to say you DO mention ‘sliding’ connectors… but the mechanism of the actuator is not very clear and/or the photos didn’t quite get me there, mine was a smaller pin-pitch I think too).
@clickykbd This is a great idea! I’d love to add it to the guide. Do you mind sharing the name of the device you were working on, so we can try to get some photos of that connector in the wild? Or do you have some photos of your own? For copyright reasons, we usually can’t borrow other people’s images or graphics for our guides without permission. Thanks for sharing!
Jeff, It was a Marshsall VLCD70MD-3G on-camera/field monitor. The connector was for the LCD ribbon flexible pcb cable.. I’ve still got it apart as I am trying to source a LCD, so I can try to get some half decent photos in a day or so. I’m pretty sure I’ve run into these before and they came apart with the “just pull” method… but reseating them without mangling the flat-flex was very difficult without knowing the trick if I recall. Thought I would do my homework this time.
Bonjour
Je voudrais retirer un câble nappe écran sur la carte mêre de mon téléviseur LG 47LE5510 il y a dessus un petit levier qui se lève à l’ongle mais le câble semble collé et je n’ose pas forcer. Sur le connecteur est indiqué FS60 et le câble est un EAD60974135.
Pouvez-vous m’aider car je ne voudrais rien casser et ces 2 câbles coûtent cher en piece détachée.
Merci d’avance
Thank you, thank you, thank you. My husband really needed this.
Some ZIF ribbon connectors I’ve found, have the latch on the side of the insertion of the cable, some others on the oposite side. So be sure to pull on the correct side, or you will damage the connector. Another tip is to pull them very gently and when closing it, also with not much pressure, I have spoiled some hinges in the process, what is left to do is replace the whole connector.
Great article, but just one question… WhatWhat happens if you break one of these? Can you suggest a fix for something like the ZIF connector.
Is it pretty much a write off if you snap the latch on some of these connectors?
I have a 3D printer from China, it is an Artillery Sidewinder X1 v4 model . It uses ribbon cables from the power supply to the heated nozzle and the heated print bed. It is my understanding that power is sent along a couple (or more) of the wires to distribute the load, and I get a good deal of heat at the connector site, on the ribbon cable itself. It is enough heat that I believe the connection and/or the ribbon cable itself will fail.
It is a friction fit connection and I imagine it is difficult to keep the connections inline at the connecting point. The printer uses 20 wire and 30 ribbon wire cables as can be seen at: https://www.amazon.com/Artillery-Ribbon-...
My question, and I do understand the value of your time, is – what can I do to better align the connections? Is there some sort of heavier gauge ribbon I can use and, perhaps, do so through some sort of adapter at the connection point?
Anything you can suggest is appreciated.
Hi,
i need the connector in step 10.
Where can i buy this?
Thank Manuel
Merci : très clair et complet. Je vais pouvoir aider un ami à rebrancher le connecteur de son GPS
Where may I purchase these zif ribbon connectors?
URL disabled
Hi Robin! Which URL is disabled? Can you point me to a specific step?
URL disabled on my phone.
How to fix it now
Why can't I ADD min
What if I break the ZIF connector itself (were the ribbon goes), is my tablet ruin?
elainegb27 - 回复
Unless you are good with a soldering iron or hot air station I would suggest taking it to someone that can do it.
deswaite -
“…Be sure to pry up on the hinged flap, not the connector socket….” but we’re not going to provide any further information than this and good luck with that :-)
andyescribe - 回复
That’s what the photos are for—providing a visual example. There are a million different implementations of ZIF connector out there, so it’s not possible to provide specific instructions for each one in a single guide. For that, you need to search for the guide for your specific device. Unfortunately, looking at your post history, it appears you attempted to do that, but the guide you were following (Nexus 6) mislabeled the battery connector as a ZIF connector. I’ve corrected the guide. Sorry for the trouble!
Jeff Suovanen -
You have provide awesome tips which is very helpful. I have issue with FPC that not connecting with Cable
Ralph Vale - 回复
hola he intentado cambiar el cristal de mi apple watch 2 despues de conseguirlo me he dado cuenta que he retirado el cable sin bajar la pestaña o no se que he doblado los pines despues de intentar una y otra vez el conector zip de la derecha ha quedado inservible es posible comprar ese conector en algun lugar o sabrian que nombre de conector debo buscar ya que no viene en ninguna expecificacion gracias
Fran Ansio - 回复
Great tutorial, thanks. Had I not seen it, I would have irreparably damaged my keyboard. Perhaps it lacks a bit more guidance on how to place the cables back. I found that part to be the hardest actually.
Juan Dueñas - 回复