That thing is a beast. I ended up ordering a 2nd fan assembly on ebay so I could destroy the one I had with reckless abandon. Got the fan out with connector... which already had a tail on it just long enough to directly screw the fan to the front grill, getting it out of the way of my extra long graphics card. Not pretty but works! I used a combination of dikes and a Dremel to separate the fan from the housing.
If you don't mind severely altering the look of your macpro. There are vinyl film products that other PC modders use to alter the appearance of their case plastics/hardware. Should hide such things nicely (but not fix it for resale).
Hi. You can pick up the default nvidia Gfx GT120 on ebay for super cheap these days. I keep one handy just in case I need to get to the pre-boot screen. There are better cards that support pre-boot and even Metal, but this one is super handy for slapping in when I just need video to boot because of some other issue. Even Mojave will boot with this graphics card provided you installed it with a metal supported one at the time. Not a full answer but a tip for sure.
Sharing what I posted in another topic, because I ran in circles trying to solve ghost touching and my solution ended up being some loose frame screws!! "Ghost touching after digitizer replacement"
I just posted on an ipad4 topic what worked for me. Counter-intuitive solution! But there seems to be lots of causes for ghost touches on ipads. "Ghost touching after digitizer replacement"
I had an ebay ipad4 wifi exhibiting extensive ghost/phantom touches, so bad you can’t log in, magnifier feature was the most common activated, but general mayhem. I also assumed digitizer, but my first replacement (ifixit digitizer) showed the exact same issues. Bodydid not appear warped, no bent corners etc. My only clue was I could sometimes get it to behave before pressing the digitizer down onto the adhesive. I went in circles for a while, tried everything suggested everywhere. Kapton tape over areas of the digitizer frame, reseating and cleaning contacts, checking cable management for possible grounding. Nothing was working! Then, I tried working my way around with the ipad awake while I attempted to seal the digitizer… the phantom touches appeared on the left side as I pressed down, not near the digitizer ribbon cable, more in the center. Curious! One of the things I tried previously was to tighten any screws in the chassis I could find. However I neglected the small pairs of screws (PH000) that run...
Worth noting... (and Louis was right) My solution: Unplugged the touchpad, restarted, still had fan+kernel_task throttled. So started to suspect the sensor error was a red herring. Proceeded to unplug and restart each mainboard connection in turn. I did every one including the display... then I finally did the iSight connector (the silverish one next to the speaker/sub connector). PROBLEM WENT AWAY! (and hardware diagnostics report no problems). I should have suspected this sooner as there was a busted cable (due to busted display hinge), but didn't know which one it was. My brother's machine can now limp along happily for another several months with it's gaff tape hinge. ;-) So just be aware that hardware diagnostics may LIE lie to you about that palm rest sensor (or at least fib a little, ignoring the root problem).
Jeff, It was a Marshsall VLCD70MD-3G on-camera/field monitor. The connector was for the LCD ribbon flexible pcb cable.. I’ve still got it apart as I am trying to source a LCD, so I can try to get some half decent photos in a day or so. I’m pretty sure I’ve run into these before and they came apart with the “just pull” method… but reseating them without mangling the flat-flex was very difficult without knowing the trick if I recall. Thought I would do my homework this time.
I recently ran into a FFC (Flat Flex Connector) type I didn’t know how to open exactly, and this page only refers to the flip-lock type. Turns out it was a slide-lock connector and the diagrams on the page below were very helpful. I simply used my tweezers to push on the two tabs towards the cable, the actuator moved easily once you knew which way to apply force.
Doing ifixit versions of these diagrams would be VERY helpful.
Googling to find these hints was VERY difficult not knowing the terminology. But this ifixit page was at the top of the stack, update to save the next guy half an hour googling?
(Updating to say you DO mention ‘sliding’ connectors… but the mechanism of the actuator is not very clear and/or the photos didn’t quite get me there, mine was a smaller pin-pitch I think too).
Anyone ever figured out how to “teardown” the fan-cage assembly from the PCI lane area (the one hovering that has the PCI lock bar mechanism). The assembly is easy to remove, but !&&* if I can figure out how to free the fan from it.
I got as far as being able to release the female plug so that it could slide through the plastic, and the fan appears seated on rubber type posts, just can’t separate the two cage elements to get to it. (at least not without worrying amounts of force).
Jeff, It was a Marshsall VLCD70MD-3G on-camera/field monitor. The connector was for the LCD ribbon flexible pcb cable.. I’ve still got it apart as I am trying to source a LCD, so I can try to get some half decent photos in a day or so. I’m pretty sure I’ve run into these before and they came apart with the “just pull” method… but reseating them without mangling the flat-flex was very difficult without knowing the trick if I recall. Thought I would do my homework this time.
I recently ran into a FFC (Flat Flex Connector) type I didn’t know how to open exactly, and this page only refers to the flip-lock type. Turns out it was a slide-lock connector and the diagrams on the page below were very helpful. I simply used my tweezers to push on the two tabs towards the cable, the actuator moved easily once you knew which way to apply force.
Doing ifixit versions of these diagrams would be VERY helpful.
Slide Lock Diagram: ''https://gct.co/Images/products/ffc-con...
Flip Lock Diagram: ''https://gct.co/Images/products/ffc-con...
Parent Page: ''https://gct.co/ffc-connector''
Googling to find these hints was VERY difficult not knowing the terminology. But this ifixit page was at the top of the stack, update to save the next guy half an hour googling?
(Updating to say you DO mention ‘sliding’ connectors… but the mechanism of the actuator is not very clear and/or the photos didn’t quite get me there, mine was a smaller pin-pitch I think too).
Anyone ever figured out how to “teardown” the fan-cage assembly from the PCI lane area (the one hovering that has the PCI lock bar mechanism). The assembly is easy to remove, but !&&* if I can figure out how to free the fan from it.
I got as far as being able to release the female plug so that it could slide through the plastic, and the fan appears seated on rubber type posts, just can’t separate the two cage elements to get to it. (at least not without worrying amounts of force).