TheLastMillennial

Recently my base model Surface Book 1’s original charger died so I replaced it with the SB 2's charger. Now whenever my...

It’s a long story, but I accidentally dropped my Surface Book Pen in the parking lot 3 days ago and only found it today....

Thank you for providing all that information! As you guessed, this is definitely a hardware issue. Could you please provide an image of the corrosion (be sure to check if the corrosion is on both sides of the board)? I can see if there’s enough contact left for you to solder jumper wires in place of the traces. In the meantime, if you have the mini-USB to mini-USB cable the came with the calculator, you can plug side A (the white side) into the calculator and it will turn on. This is similar to plugging the calculator into the charger but this method does not need a power source and also doesn’t clear the RAM. EDIT: Alright, I got some help from NoahK. I know you said you checked continuity, but I'll relay that info again. So, the round contacts you see around the button are call test points. (1) The test point at the top should be continuous with the circle in the middle. (2) The test point to the top right should be continuous with the ‘floating’ triangles. (3) The test point to the bottom left is ground...

Thanks for doing all those troubleshooting steps, that really helps me out! Unfortunately, you can’t repair the ribbon cable the same way as the TI-83 family since the CE’s ribbon cable is significantly smaller (you can see it circled in the teardown). The community has been unable to find a compatible LCD you can buy separately, so the only way to get a new LCD is to buy a donor calculator. Fortunately, every TI-84 Plus CE (or TI-83 Premium CE) display is compatible with each other. Just be warned that it is not compatible with the TI-84 Plus CSE’s LCD.

I don’t know what you mean by ‘not working correctly’ but it sounds like you need to pres [mode] and select ‘float’. There’s a user manual for your calculator that covers all its functions here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/376302...-Instruments-Ti-36x-Pro.html#manual

It sounds like you may have damaged the ribbon cable for the screen. I'd suggest checking that all the traces are working: https://www.cemetech.net/forum/viewtopic... . Ribbon cable failure is pretty common so yours may have been about to break anyways, moving it around just accelerated the break. Just so you know, you don't need the foil for the calculator to function, it's just emf shielding for FCC regulations.

EDIT: Clarified info about the new Nspire CX having the same PCB design as the Nspire CX II Not that I know of, you’re a pioneer in this area! The chassis on the outside is very similar to the original however you’ll have to be sure your Nspire CX is a recent revision (W or newer) so it’s designed like the Nspire CX II where the PCB is a single piece rather than the old, Nspire CX which had a two piece PCB. Otherwise you’ll encounter major space issues if you try a body swap. This means that the original Nspire CX’s keys may not be the correct thickness so you’ll have to use the keys from the Nspire CX II. My biggest worry is that the touch pad may not be the correct thickness either, and if it’s not then you may be screwed since I don’t think the touch pads are compatible across generations. Good luck! Note: I’m not worried about cheating at all because the Nspire CX and Nspire CX II have nearly identical capabilities. If a teacher really cares about using Exam Mode, it’s easy to tell there’s new hardware...

First, I’d suggest immediately taking apart the calculator and cleaning up what you can to avoid more damage. You can remove the LCD by flipping up the white connector (seen here) over the ribbon cable using a fingernail or flat head screwdriver to release the cable. This may make it easier to see if you can repair what’s left of the LCD. Unfortunately, replacement parts are extremely difficult to find because TI doesn’t sell them separately. If your calculator is less than a year old you may be able to use your warranty to get a replacement but otherwise you’ll either have to buy a donor calculator (hard to find) to get a display out of, or just buy a whole new calculator.

This is a classic example of ribbon cable failure. Unfortunately, unless you have a soldering iron, there’s nothing you can do to fix it. There’s a guide over on the Cemetech (calculator forum) that addresses this: https://www.cemetech.net/forum/viewtopic...

Have you tried reinstalling the OS? That's typically a reliable fix for boot loops. Texas Instruments TI-Nspire CX OS Replacement Edit: if you're relying on a software called ndless to run games or programs (you'll know if you are), then don't get the OS from TI’S website. Get OS 4.5.0 here: https://tiplanet.org/forum/archives_list...

I know I’m super late but I didn’t have any experience with the keys until now. Once you get the back plastic shell off, you can break the melted plastic bits using wire clippers. Scissors might work but may be difficult to work with due to their length. Don’t worry about breaking the melted bits, your calculator will fit back together just fine without them. From here you can follow this guide starting at step 7 for the TI-83 Plus since the calculator’s construction is roughly similar and it explains how to clean the contacts. I wouldn’t recommend removing the rubber membrane though. Let me know if you have any other questions!

If a whole row is dead then it’s likely the issue is a broken trace on the PCB. If you have a multimeter then you can probably pinpoint the place(s) where it’s broken and repair it if you know how to solder. There are many tutorials out there for fixing a broken trace, here is one I found. Let me know if you have any other questions!

I’ve replied to your question here: TI-84 Plus CE - ON Button Not Working To Turn On or Off

That’s interesting, does your computer recognize it when you plug the calculator in?

Just so you know, the charging circuit is separate from the rest of the calculator so it can still work even if the calculator doesn’t.

So you're saying when you try charge the calculator it doesn't charge the battery at all? Does the LED next to the charging port turn solid orange when you plug it in? Have you tried a different power source (i.e. your computer or a wall block) or a different cable?

@tfc_cnc Hi, first off I really appreciate all the information you provided, it makes this a lot easier to diagnose! Unfortunately if reinstalling the OS (step 4) does not work, then there’s nothing more you can try on the software side. However, If the battery indicator never turns green even after charging overnight then there may be a defect with the battery itself. Try replacing the battery; if that doesn’t work then I think you’ll need to contact TI Cares. I have no idea why some calculator just die for no reason. Please let me know if you get it working again!

You can’t buy replacement parts for either one without finding a donor calculator somewhere. If it’s just the screen protector that’s damaged then you can just pull it off since it’s only held on by weak glue. If your LCD is cracked then you’ll need to find another TI 84 Plus CE and swap the LCDs. Fortunately all displays are compatible with all hardware revisions so it doesn’t matter which one you get (just make sure you do NOT get a TI 84 Plus CSE since it does NOT have the same LCD).

@Infine Axel, I think this is the exact question topic you’re looking for: Why my charging light is always on? It kills the battery..

Oh no! What do you mean by “ when I pulled the screws, the screws came off the cover, like they are completely jammed”? Are you saying the screws on the battery compartment fell out? If so, that’s not normal. They should stay on the battery compartment.

Do you have any idea why your calculator could have suddenly died like this? How long have you had it? It’s possible it could just be defective.

I know you said it wouldn’t turn on, but perhaps you could try connecting your calculator to power then trying TI-84 Plus CE Recovery Techniques. ?

@forestguzman That’s not really an easy project. Perhaps there’s something wrong elsewhere in the calculator that’s easier to fix. Can you please tell me exactly what’s wrong with your calculator? Have you tried looking at TI-84 Plus CE Recovery Techniques. ?

For a project like that I’d suggest making a topic on a calculator forum like Cemetech.net or tiplanet.org since there are many people with more knowledge on that than I have.

Sadly, even if you got a different color, a body swap isn't easy. There's heat melted and glued parts that are difficult if not impossible to put back. Your best bet is to try and glue it back together, or try and use the warranty to get a new calculator. :/

@evankaba Well the goal is to buy a cheap, broken calculator not a brand new one. Unfortunately it’s quite difficult to find a broken TI 84 Plus CE. It’s also very difficult to find replacement parts since TI sources many parts directly from manufacturers. Could you share what’s wrong with your calculator and which part you need? I might be able to help you out.