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修复你的物品

维修的权力

配件 & 工具

简介

您的iPad电池是否已经不能长时间使用了呢?跟随这个指南来帮助您更换iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi版本的电池。如果你的电池鼓包了,参考 采取适当措施.。

  1. 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。 把iOpener放在微波炉中间 。
    • 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。

    • 把iOpener放在微波炉中间 。

    • 对于旋转式微波炉:确保盘子可以自由旋转。如果你的iOpener卡住了,它可能会过热并燃烧

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - 回复

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 回复

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 回复

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 回复

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - 回复

    Video seems to have been removed from YouTube.

    Rex Burrus -

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 回复

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 回复

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - 回复

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

    Regards,

    Cedric

    Cedric VINCENT - 回复

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - 回复

    Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.

    B. A. Computer Services - 回复

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - 回复

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - 回复

    The “Galaxy S8 Replacement Battery” that you are selling with the kit is the wrong battery, the one that you are selling is a 3000mAh (which is the wrong amperage) as the OEM Samsung Galaxy S8 battery is “Model #: EB-BG892ABA / 4000mAh / Normal Voltage: 3.85V / Charge Voltage: 4.4V / A/S: 1588-3366 4000mAh 15.0Wh

    stevengenat - 回复

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - 回复

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - 回复

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - 回复

  2. 加热iOpener三十秒
    • 加热iOpener三十秒

    • 贯穿整个维修过程,如果iOpener 冷却了,在微波炉中每次重新加热额外的三十秒。

    • 注意在维修过程中不要过度加热iOpener,过热可能会导致iOpener爆炸。

    • 如果出现膨胀千万不要碰iOpener。

    • 如果iOpener中间部分依然烫的没法碰,请等待冷却后再加热,一个加热好的iOpener 应该可以保持热度十分钟

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - 回复

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 回复

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 回复

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - 回复

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - 回复

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - 回复

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - 回复

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - 回复

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - 回复

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 回复

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 回复

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 回复

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 回复

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - 回复

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - 回复

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - 回复

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - 回复

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - 回复

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - 回复

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Rapp -

  3. 把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来,捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个避免碰到中心热的部分。
    • 把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来,捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个避免碰到中心热的部分。

    • iOpener会非常烫,所以拿着它的时候千万要小心。必要的时候可以使用烤箱手套。

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - 回复

    Can you use an oven instead?

    Rafael -

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - 回复

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 回复

  4. 如果您的显示屏玻璃已经碎裂,防止显示屏玻璃在您维修时进一步伤害您,请使用胶带来固定已经碎裂的屏幕。 给iPad 的正面整面贴上胶带。 这一步将保证在您翘起和移除显示屏时能够保持完整。
    • 如果您的显示屏玻璃已经碎裂,防止显示屏玻璃在您维修时进一步伤害您,请使用胶带来固定已经碎裂的屏幕。

    • 给iPad 的正面整面贴上胶带。

    • 这一步将保证在您翘起和移除显示屏时能够保持完整。

    • 尽量根据下面的指南进行操作。但,一旦玻璃破碎,请停下拆解并使用金属撬刀撬出玻璃,避免更多的碎裂。

    • 戴上安全眼镜来保护你的眼睛。 小心操作不要损坏了LCD内屏。

    Why does it says in red letter to be sure not to damage the LCD screen? I thought the whole point of this guide is to replace a broken screen and the new screen comes with a new LCD since apparently they cannot be separated

    Stranger Danger - 回复

    Because some people are opening the ipad to replace the battery! Like me~

    stephenwithph - 回复

  5. 接下来的几部将会需要用到iOpener来软化前面板下方的粘合剂。 当在微波炉中加热iOpener时切勿加热超过30秒。
    • 接下来的几部将会需要用到iOpener来软化前面板下方的粘合剂。 当在微波炉中加热iOpener时切勿加热超过30秒。

    • 抓住已经加热的iOpener的任意一端,将其放置在iPad的顶端。

    • 将iOpener放置至少2分钟来软化面板下方的粘合剂。

    Yeah, this part took longer than written. Over 30 minutes and had to reheat the iOpenner since it got cool enough to only feel warm.

    Christopher Lowder - 回复

    So true, the adhesive is really strong.

    Benjamin Black -

  6. 虽然iPad看起来是一体化高度集成的,但在玻璃面板下面有许多细小的部件,避免伤害那些部件,只能加热或撬动指南内所描述到的区域。 在您按照本指南操作时,请小心下述区域。 Home键
    • 虽然iPad看起来是一体化高度集成的,但在玻璃面板下面有许多细小的部件,避免伤害那些部件,只能加热或撬动指南内所描述到的区域。

    • 在您按照本指南操作时,请小心下述区域。

    • Home键

    • 前置摄像头

    • 后置摄像头

    you should be careful with the screen connector on the bottom right when opening

    Elyazee Eble Altenawe - 回复

  7. 将吸盘小心的放在刚加热的一侧,前置摄像头的位置。 为了提升杠杆力,将吸盘尽可能的放置在边缘处,但不要超过显示屏边沿位置。
    • 将吸盘小心的放在刚加热的一侧,前置摄像头的位置。

    • 为了提升杠杆力,将吸盘尽可能的放置在边缘处,但不要超过显示屏边沿位置。

  8. 牢牢地提起吸盘,将前玻璃面板与后壳分离出一道小缝隙。 切勿大力拉动,这将损坏玻璃。 一旦打开一道缝隙请在缝隙处放置一个撬片。防止粘合剂将面板与后壳重新粘连。
    • 牢牢地提起吸盘,将前玻璃面板与后壳分离出一道小缝隙。

    • 切勿大力拉动,这将损坏玻璃。

    • 一旦打开一道缝隙请在缝隙处放置一个撬片。防止粘合剂将面板与后壳重新粘连。

  9. 将撬片在显示屏边缘处一直滑动到耳机孔处。 如果在滑动的时候遇到了很大的阻力,请重新加热iOpener,来进一步融化粘合剂。 小心,切勿使撬片在LCD显示屏与前面板之间滑动,这样将会永久损坏显示屏。
    • 将撬片在显示屏边缘处一直滑动到耳机孔处。

    • 如果在滑动的时候遇到了很大的阻力,请重新加热iOpener,来进一步融化粘合剂。

    • 小心,切勿使撬片在LCD显示屏与前面板之间滑动,这样将会永久损坏显示屏。

    • 法则就是,永远不要把撬片插入iPad超过1/4英寸。(约0.6cm)

    I think I accidently slid my tool into the fused lcd and front panel and now the entire screen is doing weird lines and different colors and just is not natural its not even usable. I was gonna replace the battery because the batter was popping the entire front panel and lcd off of the base of the device and then when i was openingit up the rest of the way I slipped and it hit something and now its all glitchy. what should i do?? is it even worth fixing anymore? it;s too old for apple care and I already voided the warranty and displays are expensive what should I do? email me @ andrew.heidorn1@gmail.com thanks :)

    Andrew Heidorn - 回复

    “a quarter of an inch” might be OK for the US/UK… what about pretty much the rest of the world using the metric system? When giving measurements, please always include them also in mm/cm

    Denis Hay - 回复

    A quick google search will give you the answer

    Stranger Danger -

  10. 在前置摄像头开口处插入第二块撬片。 在前置摄像头开口处插入第二块撬片。
    • 在前置摄像头开口处插入第二块撬片。

  11. 将第二块撬片一直滑动到电源键处。 将第二块撬片一直滑动到电源键处。 将第二块撬片一直滑动到电源键处。
    • 将第二块撬片一直滑动到电源键处。

  12. 在前置摄像头处插入第三片撬片。 在前置摄像头处插入第三片撬片。
    • 在前置摄像头处插入第三片撬片。

  13. 滑动右边的撬片滑过iPad右上角。 滑动右边的撬片滑过iPad右上角。 滑动右边的撬片滑过iPad右上角。
    • 滑动右边的撬片滑过iPad右上角。

  14. 滑动左边的撬片滑过iPad左上角。 滑动左边的撬片滑过iPad左上角。 滑动左边的撬片滑过iPad左上角。
    • 滑动左边的撬片滑过iPad左上角。

  15. 再次加热iOpener然后放置在iPad的右边来融化下面的粘合剂。
    • 再次加热iOpener然后放置在iPad的右边来融化下面的粘合剂。

  16. 滑动右边的撬片到显示屏一半的位置。 滑动右边的撬片到显示屏一半的位置。 滑动右边的撬片到显示屏一半的位置。
    • 滑动右边的撬片到显示屏一半的位置。

  17. 再次加热iOpener然后放置在iPad左边。
    • 再次加热iOpener然后放置在iPad左边。

  18. 滑动左边的撬片到显示屏一半的位置。 滑动左边的撬片到显示屏一半的位置。 滑动左边的撬片到显示屏一半的位置。
    • 滑动左边的撬片到显示屏一半的位置。

  19. 滑动右边的撬片一直到iPad底部那个角的位置。 如果有必要的话,重新加热iOpener来使得右边角位置下方的粘合剂融化。 如果有必要的话,重新加热iOpener来使得右边角位置下方的粘合剂融化。
    • 滑动右边的撬片一直到iPad底部那个角的位置。

    • 如果有必要的话,重新加热iOpener来使得右边角位置下方的粘合剂融化。

  20. 滑动左边的撬片一直到iPad底部那个角的位置。 滑动左边的撬片一直到iPad底部那个角的位置。 滑动左边的撬片一直到iPad底部那个角的位置。
    • 滑动左边的撬片一直到iPad底部那个角的位置。

  21. 使用iOpener的热量来加热iPad的底部。
    • 使用iOpener的热量来加热iPad的底部。

  22. 将右边的撬片滑过iPad的那个底角。 将右边的撬片滑过iPad的那个底角。 将右边的撬片滑过iPad的那个底角。
    • 将右边的撬片滑过iPad的那个底角。

  23. 左边做相同动作。 若果有需要的话重新加热iOpener。  小心,请勿在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。 在重新加热iOpener之前请至少等待10分钟。 若果有需要的话重新加热iOpener。  小心,请勿在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。 在重新加热iOpener之前请至少等待10分钟。
    • 左边做相同动作。

    • 若果有需要的话重新加热iOpener。 小心,请勿在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。 在重新加热iOpener之前请至少等待10分钟。

  24. 移开右侧的撬片。 移开右侧的撬片。
    • 移开右侧的撬片。

  25. 使用左边的撬片在显示屏底部滑动然后在iPad的右下角拿走它。 请十分小心的操作,切勿将撬片插入深于1/4英尺。 来避免面板伤害到面板下方的Home键和显示排线。 请十分小心的操作,切勿将撬片插入深于1/4英尺。 来避免面板伤害到面板下方的Home键和显示排线。
    • 使用左边的撬片在显示屏底部滑动然后在iPad的右下角拿走它。

    • 请十分小心的操作,切勿将撬片插入深于1/4英尺。 来避免面板伤害到面板下方的Home键和显示排线。

  26. 旋转前置摄像头那片撬片。来将面板的顶部与后壳分离。 旋转前置摄像头那片撬片。来将面板的顶部与后壳分离。 旋转前置摄像头那片撬片。来将面板的顶部与后壳分离。
    • 旋转前置摄像头那片撬片。来将面板的顶部与后壳分离。

  27. 在前置摄像头一侧继续提起。 将显示屏稍微从底部拉出,将其与后壳完全分离。 继续提起直到屏幕大致与iPad主体垂直。
    • 在前置摄像头一侧继续提起。

    • 将显示屏稍微从底部拉出,将其与后壳完全分离。

    • 继续提起直到屏幕大致与iPad主体垂直。

    • 切勿现在就移除走显示屏,它仍然与后壳连接着3条细排线。

  28. 移除单个固定电池端子与逻辑板连接的 1.8 mm Phillips螺丝。
    • 移除单个固定电池端子与逻辑板连接的 1.8 mm Phillips螺丝。

    Be very careful when replacing the screws not to lose them. They are micro small. I would even think about ordering a couple extra of each size just in case.

    David Christoff - 回复

    I have damge this battery terminals to their contacts on the logic board when I remove the battery. So how to fix this? Can buy that hardware to make replacement? Urgent! Need Help!

    jackwong.123 - 回复

    Hi jackwong,

    If you are talking about the small springs that contact the battery, there is no easy way to replace them. You can try removing the board, applying a lump of solder on the contact with the broken spring, and see if that will be sufficient to connect to the battery contact when the board is screwed down.

    Arthur Shi -

  29. 为了防止触电的风险,您可以使用一个电池撬片来切断电池的连接。 将电池撬片滑动到电池端子和逻辑板连接的下方,然后在您工作的时候就无需理会撬片。
    • 为了防止触电的风险,您可以使用一个电池撬片来切断电池的连接。

    • 将电池撬片滑动到电池端子和逻辑板连接的下方,然后在您工作的时候就无需理会撬片。

  30. 移除三个显示排线保护壳上的 1.3mm Phillips螺丝。 取下保护壳。 取下保护壳。
    • 移除三个显示排线保护壳上的 1.3mm Phillips螺丝。

    • 取下保护壳。

  31. 切断显示数据传输线与逻辑板插座上的连接。 切断显示数据传输线与逻辑板插座上的连接。
    • 切断显示数据传输线与逻辑板插座上的连接。

  32. 切断在连接线下方其余两个线缆。 切断在连接线下方其余两个线缆。 切断在连接线下方其余两个线缆。
    • 切断在连接线下方其余两个线缆。

  33. 将前面板与后壳分离。
    • 将前面板与后壳分离。

    Note on my iPad Air there was a little plastic cover around the front facing camera. Take that off an put it to one side as you will need it later for reassembly.

    John McDonnell - 回复

  34. 移除下列将顶壳元件线缆支架与平板相固定的十字螺丝。 2颗 1.6mm 2颗 1.3mm
    • 移除下列将顶壳元件线缆支架与平板相固定的十字螺丝。

    • 2颗 1.6mm

    • 2颗 1.3mm

    • 将上部组件电缆支架从保护盖下滑出,并将其从iPad上取下。

    Reinstalling the upper component bracket was tricky for me. It is difficult to get the bracket in proper orientation to replace screws and under the flaps at the same time.

    David Christoff - 回复

  35. 移除两个扬声器ZIF连接头上的胶带。 移除两个扬声器ZIF连接头上的胶带。 移除两个扬声器ZIF连接头上的胶带。
    • 移除两个扬声器ZIF连接头上的胶带。

  36. 使用撬棒来翻转左扬声器ZIF连接器上的固定挡板。 使用撬棒来翻转左扬声器ZIF连接器上的固定挡板。
    • 使用撬棒来翻转左扬声器ZIF连接器上的固定挡板。

  37. 滑动左侧扬声器线缆使其从ZIF连接器中断开。 滑动左侧扬声器线缆使其从ZIF连接器中断开。
    • 滑动左侧扬声器线缆使其从ZIF连接器中断开。

  38. 使用撬棒翻转右扬声器的ZIF连接器上的固定挡板。 使用撬棒翻转右扬声器的ZIF连接器上的固定挡板。
    • 使用撬棒翻转右扬声器的ZIF连接器上的固定挡板。

  39. 滑动右扬声器线缆使其从ZIF接头中滑出。 滑动右扬声器线缆使其从ZIF接头中滑出。
    • 滑动右扬声器线缆使其从ZIF接头中滑出。

  40. 使用撬棒小心地将天线线缆从其插座上翘起。 使用撬棒小心地将天线线缆从其插座上翘起。 使用撬棒小心地将天线线缆从其插座上翘起。
    • 使用撬棒小心地将天线线缆从其插座上翘起。

  41. 紧紧的抓住天线线缆,然后将其从固定天线到逻辑板的胶带中剥离。 重新组装时,重要的是将天线电缆重新粘合到逻辑板上,接地胶带粘在铜带上。 重新组装时,重要的是将天线电缆重新粘合到逻辑板上,接地胶带粘在铜带上。
    • 紧紧的抓住天线线缆,然后将其从固定天线到逻辑板的胶带中剥离。

    • 重新组装时,重要的是将天线电缆重新粘合到逻辑板上,接地胶带粘在铜带上。

  42. 卸下固定覆盖音量控制电缆连接器的支架的1.2毫米十字螺丝。 移除支架
    • 卸下固定覆盖音量控制电缆连接器的支架的1.2毫米十字螺丝。

    • 移除支架

  43. 通过将其直接从插座上翘起来断开音量按键线缆连接。 通过将其直接从插座上翘起来断开音量按键线缆连接。
    • 通过将其直接从插座上翘起来断开音量按键线缆连接。

  44. 从插座中翘起后置摄像头线缆。 从插座中翘起后置摄像头线缆。
    • 从插座中翘起后置摄像头线缆。

  45. 将home 键/麦克风带状线缆插头从其插座上翘起。 将home 键/麦克风带状线缆插头从其插座上翘起。
    • 将home 键/麦克风带状线缆插头从其插座上翘起。

  46. 使用撬棒扁平的一端来从逻辑板插座上断开Face time 连接插头 撬起将Facetime相机电缆连接到下面的音频插孔电缆的粘合剂。 将FaceTime相机线缆扳到一半。
    • 使用撬棒扁平的一端来从逻辑板插座上断开Face time 连接插头

    • 撬起将Facetime相机电缆连接到下面的音频插孔电缆的粘合剂。

    • 将FaceTime相机线缆扳到一半。

  47. 断开耳机插孔电缆连接器与逻辑板上的插座的连接。 将电缆撬起来,将其从将其固定到后壳的粘合剂中分离。 将音频插孔电缆从下面的逻辑板中拔出。
    • 断开耳机插孔电缆连接器与逻辑板上的插座的连接。

    • 将电缆撬起来,将其从将其固定到后壳的粘合剂中分离。

    • 将音频插孔电缆从下面的逻辑板中拔出。

  48. 用镊子撕下将天线连接到逻辑板的最右边的接地胶带。 弯曲天线导线,避开逻辑板。 弯曲天线导线,避开逻辑板。
    • 用镊子撕下将天线连接到逻辑板的最右边的接地胶带。

    • 弯曲天线导线,避开逻辑板。

  49. 撕下覆盖逻辑板左上角的胶带。 撕下覆盖逻辑板左上角的胶带。
    • 撕下覆盖逻辑板左上角的胶带。

  50. 卸下将lightning端口连接到后壳的四个1.6毫米十字螺丝。
    • 卸下将lightning端口连接到后壳的四个1.6毫米十字螺丝。

    At step 50: before removing the four screws, remove the tape that covers the upper two screws.

    Hans Ottens - 回复

  51. Lightning连接器电缆用粘合剂粘在外壳上。 要分离粘合剂,您将需要滑动电缆和外壳之间的开口。 小心不要切断Lightning连接器电缆本身。 在闪电电缆下面与逻辑板相连处插入一个撬片。
    • Lightning连接器电缆用粘合剂粘在外壳上。 要分离粘合剂,您将需要滑动电缆和外壳之间的开口。 小心不要切断Lightning连接器电缆本身。

    • 在闪电电缆下面与逻辑板相连处插入一个撬片。

    • 将开口拨片滑向电缆弯曲处。

  52. 将Lightning连接器直接从后壳的凹槽中拔出。 将Lightning连接器直接从后壳的凹槽中拔出。
    • 将Lightning连接器直接从后壳的凹槽中拔出。

  53. 按照iOpener加热指南中的步骤准备一个iOpener。
    • 按照iOpener加热指南中的步骤准备一个iOpener。

    • 将iOpener沿着iPad背面的顶部放置2-3分钟以软化固定逻辑板的粘合剂。

  54. 在FaceTime摄像头下面的逻辑板下方插入一个打开工具。 向上撬逻辑板的左边缘。
    • 在FaceTime摄像头下面的逻辑板下方插入一个打开工具。

    • 向上撬逻辑板的左边缘。

    • 缓慢提起逻辑板的末端。 如果遇到很大的阻力,请停止撬动并重新放置iOpener软化粘合剂。

  55. 在上一步中撬起的逻辑板部分的下方插入一个撬片。 将开撬片滑向音量控制按钮处,然后停在逻辑板的弯曲处。
    • 在上一步中撬起的逻辑板部分的下方插入一个撬片。

    • 将开撬片滑向音量控制按钮处,然后停在逻辑板的弯曲处。

  56. 将一个加热的iOpener放在iPad背面左侧2-3分钟。
    • 将一个加热的iOpener放在iPad背面左侧2-3分钟。

  57. 将逻辑板下方插入撬棒,轻轻地将逻辑板撬起。 向下滑动打开工具,同时继续向上撬逻辑板。 缓慢提起逻辑板。 如果遇到重大阻力,请停止撬动并重新使用iOpener加热软化粘合剂。
    • 将逻辑板下方插入撬棒,轻轻地将逻辑板撬起。

    • 向下滑动打开工具,同时继续向上撬逻辑板。

    • 缓慢提起逻辑板。 如果遇到重大阻力,请停止撬动并重新使用iOpener加热软化粘合剂。

  58. 在逻辑板另一侧下方插入一个矩形开口工具,将其撬起。 向下滑动打开工具,同时继续向上撬逻辑板。 缓慢提起逻辑板。 如果遇到重大阻力,请停止撬动并重新放置iOpener来软化粘合剂。
    • 在逻辑板另一侧下方插入一个矩形开口工具,将其撬起。

    • 向下滑动打开工具,同时继续向上撬逻辑板。

    • 缓慢提起逻辑板。 如果遇到重大阻力,请停止撬动并重新放置iOpener来软化粘合剂。

  59. 将塑料卡插入逻辑板下面。 将卡沿着逻辑板的长边滑动以分离粘合剂。 将卡沿着逻辑板的长边滑动以分离粘合剂。
    • 将塑料卡插入逻辑板下面。

    • 将卡沿着逻辑板的长边滑动以分离粘合剂。

  60. 将塑料卡滑入逻辑板中央下方,尽可能将其多的推入。 慢慢地向上摆动逻辑板的左边缘,同时确保它不会阻挡任何断开的电缆。
    • 将塑料卡滑入逻辑板中央下方,尽可能将其多的推入。

    • 慢慢地向上摆动逻辑板的左边缘,同时确保它不会阻挡任何断开的电缆。

    • 如果逻辑板的任何部分需要过大的力量撬起,停止撬动,重新使用iOpener,并重新执行相应的引导步骤以完全分离粘合剂。

  61. 移走逻辑板 移走逻辑板 移走逻辑板
    • 移走逻辑板

    When reassembling be very careful not to have the ZIF connectors below the logic board. You can't get them out again without removing the logic board. This mistake happened to me *twice*. Fortunately it was not too difficult to fix. Also during reassembly you have to put the battery disconnector clip back in its place while dropping the logic board on the battery connector. DO NOT push the logic board onto its adhesive near the disconnector clip because it can break the board. Only fasten the board to the adhesive after the disconnector clip has been removed.

    thorsten.stocksmeier - 回复

  62. 使用微波炉给iOpener加热大概30秒。 切记小心不要在维修过程中过热iOpener。 等待至少两分钟再重新加热iOpener,并且加热时间不超过30秒。 将加热的iOpener放在iPad背面的中央。 放置90秒以软化电池粘合剂。
    • 使用微波炉给iOpener加热大概30秒。

    • 切记小心不要在维修过程中过热iOpener。 等待至少两分钟再重新加热iOpener,并且加热时间不超过30秒。

    • 将加热的iOpener放在iPad背面的中央。 放置90秒以软化电池粘合剂。

    • 将iOpener向右移动(远离后置摄像头),并保持90秒。

    • 最后,将iOpener放置在iPad的右边缘90秒。

    • 在整个过程中,您可能需要多次重复此步骤以确保粘合剂保持柔软。

    • iOpener可能会显著降温。 如果是这样,每个位置之间需要再加热30秒。

  63. 在整个过程中,您将在iPad的电池和后盖之间滑动薄塑料卡,以分离固定电池的粘合剂。 小心保持卡片尽可能平坦,以避免弯曲电池,这可能会损坏电池,并释放出危险的化学物质。 一旦粘合剂有几分钟软化,将iPad翻转过来,电池端向上。
    • 在整个过程中,您将在iPad的电池和后盖之间滑动薄塑料卡,以分离固定电池的粘合剂。 小心保持卡片尽可能平坦,以避免弯曲电池,这可能会损坏电池,并释放出危险的化学物质。

    • 一旦粘合剂有几分钟软化,将iPad翻转过来,电池端向上。

    • 将塑料卡插入电池触点下方。

    • 电池触点下有一个金属支架。 您需要稍微提起接触点以移除此支架,然后插入塑料卡。

    • 将卡推入电池下方约一英寸,电池开始与粘合剂分离。

  64. 沿着电池边缘向上滑动塑料卡,直到塑料卡与电池的顶部边缘平齐。 沿着电池边缘向上滑动塑料卡,直到塑料卡与电池的顶部边缘平齐。
    • 沿着电池边缘向上滑动塑料卡,直到塑料卡与电池的顶部边缘平齐。

  65. 在电池触点下方插入第二张塑料卡。 将塑料卡旋转到电池的右下角,开始沿着下边缘剥离粘合剂。 小心操作塑料卡。 在上扬声器带状电缆的顶部位置需要小心,以免损坏它们。
    • 在电池触点下方插入第二张塑料卡。

    • 将塑料卡旋转到电池的右下角,开始沿着下边缘剥离粘合剂。

    • 小心操作塑料卡。 在上扬声器带状电缆的顶部位置需要小心,以免损坏它们。

  66. 将第二张卡沿着电池的底部边缘滑动,以继续分离将其固定在后壳上的粘合剂。 您可能需要重新加热iOpener,并将其放在iPad的底部以软化固定电池底部边缘的粘合剂。
    • 将第二张卡沿着电池的底部边缘滑动,以继续分离将其固定在后壳上的粘合剂。

    • 您可能需要重新加热iOpener,并将其放在iPad的底部以软化固定电池底部边缘的粘合剂。

  67. 将塑料卡推入电池下方约两英寸,然后将其抬起,将第一个电池从后壳上撬开。 如果电池开始弯曲,请使用iOpener向背壳加热,并重复前两个步骤以充分分离电池粘合剂。 如果电池开始弯曲,请使用iOpener向背壳加热,并重复前两个步骤以充分分离电池粘合剂。
    • 将塑料卡推入电池下方约两英寸,然后将其抬起,将第一个电池从后壳上撬开。

    • 如果电池开始弯曲,请使用iOpener向背壳加热,并重复前两个步骤以充分分离电池粘合剂。

  68. 将电池从电池底部取出塑料卡,并在电池和后壳之间,沿着侧面和两个电池相接处的接缝下面滑动。 尽可能将塑料卡推到电池下方。
    • 将电池从电池底部取出塑料卡,并在电池和后壳之间,沿着侧面和两个电池相接处的接缝下面滑动。

    • 尽可能将塑料卡推到电池下方。

  69. 牢牢抓住插在电池下面的第一张卡,尽可能将其推到电池下面。 在完成此步骤之前,您可能需要更多的热量来软化粘合剂。
    • 牢牢抓住插在电池下面的第一张卡,尽可能将其推到电池下面。

    • 在完成此步骤之前,您可能需要更多的热量来软化粘合剂。

  70. 在电池右侧下方滑动第三张塑料卡。 小心操作塑料卡通过上部组件电缆,以免损坏它们。
    • 在电池右侧下方滑动第三张塑料卡。

    • 小心操作塑料卡通过上部组件电缆,以免损坏它们。

    • 尽可能地推入卡片,尽可能多地分离电池下方的粘合剂。

  71. 取出塑料卡并将其重新滑到iPad边缘附近的左侧。 要非常小心地将塑料卡滑过前置摄像头和耳机插孔电缆位置,以避免切断它们。
    • 取出塑料卡并将其重新滑到iPad边缘附近的左侧。

    • 要非常小心地将塑料卡滑过前置摄像头和耳机插孔电缆位置,以避免切断它们。

    • 尽可能地推入卡片,尽可能多地分离电池下方的粘合剂。

  72. 取出卡并再次将其滑入电池顶部边缘下方,靠近中心位置。 要非常小心地将塑料卡滑过前置摄像头和耳机插孔电缆,以避免切断它们。 尽可能地滑动卡片,尽可能多地分离粘合剂。
    • 取出卡并再次将其滑入电池顶部边缘下方,靠近中心位置。

    • 要非常小心地将塑料卡滑过前置摄像头和耳机插孔电缆,以避免切断它们。

    • 尽可能地滑动卡片,尽可能多地分离粘合剂。

    • 向上提起卡,从后壳上撬起第二块电池。

    • 如果试图撬起电池时,电池有很大阻力,请用iOpener重新加热粘合剂,然后重复上述3个步骤,以便根据需要分离粘合剂。

  73. 移除电池。
    • 移除电池。

结论

您可以按照指南相反的顺序来将您的设备重新安装回原样。

82等其他人完成本指南。

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Evan Noronha

于2015年02月05日注册

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Can the iPad air 2 battery be replaced without removing logic board or do all the internal components have to be dismantled before battery can be replaced?

AMT - 回复

The battery contacts are pinned underneath the logic board, so it's difficult to remove with the logic board in place. There's also very little room to work with the logic board installed, so there's an increased risk of damaging something with a wayward swipe of your card or pry tool. But yes, it's possible. You can reference this guide for tips on the procedure (it's for a different model but the same overall strategy will work).

Jeff Suovanen -

I've just completed this fix (among 4-5 others previously). First comment here b/c this was an unusual repair. The biggest surprise about this fix (or anything to do with the internals of an iPad): the size of the screws! I'm surprised it isn't mentioned at the top, along with the PN000 driver: these things are literally the size of a grain of sand! So, taking them out is the easy part. Putting them back in is a trick. The secret: place them on the holes first, in whichever direction, then maneuver them btw fingernail and driver into correct position. You'll need something to anchor the screen in a vertical position to use both hands. Not mentioned in Jeff and AMT's comments: there is a loop in the battery contact. Not removing the logic board means you'll be breaking the loop on the old battery to remove it, and you'll need to snip the loop on the new battery to insert it. It all worked for me. It made the actual fix a fraction of the steps from the written one (just 4 screws removed), but it's risky.

Thomas Linder - 回复

I bought the $20 repair kit to go along with the lithium ion battery. The suction cup and the heating tube did not work even after multiple attempts to use the heating tube. I had to resort to a hair dryer and use a straight razor to pry the edge just enough to slip a pick in there. I did find incredible use for the magnetized screw drivers and spudgers.

I bought the iFixIt lithium ion battery replacement and once reassembling the iPad Air 2 (double checking each connection for fit and order), it still does not turn on. ugh…

Robert Kachinski - 回复

Please provide a link for the Genuine Battery to buy

Pravi Sush - 回复

Please provide the link Or Source to Buy the Original Battery. Thanks

Pravi Sush - 回复

Really no need to remove the logic board. Use a syringe to apply some Goo B Gone around the outside edge of the battery and in the gap in the center, but not the edge next to the logic board - also, don’t flood it and make a mess, just enough to make contact with the adhesive. Let sit for about an hour and then use heat and playing cards as usual. Once the battery is free, heat the back of the tablet where the logic board sits and again use playing cards to lift the logic board just enough so that the battery contact board can clear the alignment peg. I’ve used this procedure a few times now with no issues - just take your time…

Kevin - 回复

Hi

Can ipad air 2 battery be used for ipad air 1?

Thanks

chopstixchen - 回复

When you are replacing the screen, do you need a sticky pad to fix the screen in place ? If you where can I purchase? I don’t see anything mentioned about replacement for existing screen on iPad Air 2.

ıllı Sρlιηтεя ıllı - 回复

If you’re using the iFixit kit, it comes with replacement adhesive for the screen. If not, you’ll need to get either pre-cut adhesive strips (recommended) or use some strong double-sided adhesive tape like Tesa 61395.

Jeff Suovanen -

And how does the new battery get stuck back in? Just spread adhesive around or something?

Does the repair pack come with adhesive?

thanks.

Paul Hannon - 回复

Finally fixed it!

Long story short I wasn’t able to open my iPad using iOpener. Tried really hard, even too hard and scratched the metal surface a bit. It would not move. Then I spent $20 dollars on a heat gun. That was the key. Frankly I cannot imagine how anyone could do it with iOpener. Even if you managed to open the iPad then it still has many steps where heat gun was life saver. Esp. the final boss - battery.

Changed the batter, re-assembled in something like 30 mins. Before closing I tried to turn the iPad on. It worked! Added adhesive and hopefully closed it forever.

Great tutorial!

Vilius Paulauskas - 回复

I used a hairdryer because the iOpener didn‘t worked. But after the replacement and functional tests I plugged in the power supply over night. Nothing happens even though the battery icon changed to loading battery icon. Can you give me a tip what could be defect? Thanks.

Christian Hollstein - 回复

I have this issues too. Be great to get a little help.

Paul Hannon -

Excellent tutoriel !

Durée 4 heures et encore avec un redémontage pour avoir coincé une nappe sous la carte mère que j’ai dû décoller de nouveau. Tout focntionne à merveille.

J’ai préféré coller l’écran avec la colle B 7000.

Gérard, 75 ans (ben oui !)

anonymous 4329 - 回复

I do not user the opener tool, I have my own heating pad. However, the instructions are accurate. There is a faster way to do this, but you have to delicate.

Johnathan Heckbert - 回复

Does it work with LTE version

Steven Tran - 回复

I always use goo gone on my credit card. I Apple some goo gone to a paper towel and rub a small amount on the edge I am wedging under the battery. Reapply every time you take out the card. Clean the case with rubbing alcohol to remove any oil after the battery is removed.

mamashannon4u - 回复

Did this repair but the battery won’t charge. The green battery icon shows up but the percentage of charge goes down. Brand new battery.

Paul Hannon - 回复

Installed a new ifixit battery. while it is slightly smaller than the original the “taped side” made it difficult to place so that the logic board could be put back. Just takes a bit of work.

I also think “just do the reverse” when this is so compact, perhaps some instructions or a list would help.

Thanks for the person who put this together! It is a good guide to take apart the iPad Air 2

Carl Schultz - 回复

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