简介
您的iPad电池是否已经不能长时间使用了呢?跟随这个指南来帮助您更换iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi版本的电池。如果你的电池鼓包了,参考 采取适当措施.。
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加热iOpener三十秒
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在整个维修过程中,如果iOpener 冷却了,在微波炉中每次重新加热额外的三十秒。
DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.
I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.
There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(
All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone
If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own
I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.
30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.
60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.
I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.
K
I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.
Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.
I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!
iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.
Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit
Bonjour,
Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.
Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.
Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.
I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.
Get a heat gun.
I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.
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把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来,捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个以避免碰到中心热的部分。
I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.
Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.
I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.
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如果您的显示屏玻璃已经碎裂,防止显示屏玻璃在您维修时进一步伤害您,请使用胶带来固定已经碎裂的屏幕。
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给iPad 的正面整面贴上胶带。
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尽量根据下面的指南进行操作。但,一旦玻璃破碎,请停下拆解并使用金属撬刀撬出玻璃,避免更多的碎裂。
Why does it says in red letter to be sure not to damage the LCD screen? I thought the whole point of this guide is to replace a broken screen and the new screen comes with a new LCD since apparently they cannot be separated
Because some people are opening the ipad to replace the battery! Like me~
The picture is a picture of an ipad 4 lol
The opening procedure is the same on many iPad models, so some photos are reused for all models.
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抓住已经加热的iOpener的任意一端,将其放置在iPad的顶端。
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将iOpener放置至少2分钟来软化面板下方的粘合剂。
Yeah, this part took longer than written. Over 30 minutes and had to reheat the iOpenner since it got cool enough to only feel warm.
So true, the adhesive is really strong.
I would recommend using a hair dryer on high instead. Heat a certain area 60 seconds at a time and keep the hair dyer moving at a slow but constant speed.
Hi!
Is the quality of the iOpener so different, that for some people this guide works. but for most people including me, this 30 sec do not hotten the iOpener enough..
Couldn't anybody do a new guideline with proper info, how many sec on which watt, etc. Pretty please!
BUT, with that said, I would like thank You people on ifixit.com, for make all this tools. I f. love it! But plz make a new guide for at least iPad Air 2, screen replacement!
Big love from Sweden and me Magni =) <3
Hello Magni!
Microwave power can be vary, so you may need to microwave your iOpener longer in order to get it hot enough. The iOpener should be hot to the touch, about 80-100°C.
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在您按照本指南操作时,请小心下述区域。
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Home键
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前置摄像头
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后置摄像头
you should be careful with the screen connector on the bottom right when opening
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将吸盘小心的放在刚加热的一侧,前置摄像头的位置。
This is the trickiest and scariest part of the procedure. (read all of the comments in Steps 1 and 2 and at the end of the guide). The iOpener also did not work for me - it simply would not soften the glue enough. I used a blowdryer. Have lots of patience and be gentle! I did not pull up on the suction cup very much. I softened the glue enough that I could get my fingernail under the glass, then I was able to wedge the pick in beside it. The rest of the screen removal went easy with the blowdryer and blue picks.
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牢牢地提起吸盘,将前玻璃面板与后壳分离出一道小缝隙。
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一旦打开一道缝隙请在缝隙处放置一个撬片。防止粘合剂将面板与后壳重新粘连。
Even using a heat gun in an effort to soften the remarkably tenacious adhesive, I found it impossible to use the suction cup to lift the edge of the screen sufficiently high to insert a pick. I ended up using an exacto knife and a single-edge razor blade to make the initial opening, after which I was able to insert and use picks per the instructions.
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将撬片在显示屏边缘处一直滑动到耳机孔处。
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如果在滑动的时候遇到了很大的阻力,请重新加热iOpener,来进一步融化粘合剂。
I think I accidently slid my tool into the fused lcd and front panel and now the entire screen is doing weird lines and different colors and just is not natural its not even usable. I was gonna replace the battery because the batter was popping the entire front panel and lcd off of the base of the device and then when i was openingit up the rest of the way I slipped and it hit something and now its all glitchy. what should i do?? is it even worth fixing anymore? it;s too old for apple care and I already voided the warranty and displays are expensive what should I do? email me @ andrew.heidorn1@gmail.com thanks :)
“a quarter of an inch” might be OK for the US/UK… what about pretty much the rest of the world using the metric system? When giving measurements, please always include them also in mm/cm
A quick google search will give you the answer
Metric is for engineers. Last place on earth to use inches is US car industry. NASA uses metric. You know it makes sense.
I shattered the glass on my iPad during this step.
To melt the adhesive, you have to heat the glass A LOT, to at least 80°C. I was using a portable infrared thermometer while doing this. Heating the iOpener in my microwave for 60 seconds only raised its temperature to about 90°C, and leaving it on the glass for a few minutes didn’t raise the temperature of the glass to more than about 40°C. I switched to a hair dryer and heated the glass to about 70°C, which was barely enough to be able to insert one pick. As soon as I tried to slide it across, the glass broke.
I recommend having a reliable way to measure the temperature, and finding something that can heat more effectively than the iOpener. Also take caution to heat all along the top, not just the point where you’re inserting the pick. In theory the iOpener is designed for this, but it doesn’t get hot enough.
I wish the iOpener came with a specific heat rating. It has many warnings against overheating it but it’s not clear exactly how much is too much.
6mm is far too much at the side. There is only 4mm from edge of glass to the display unit . I guess I damages my display because the pledge had gone between glass and display.
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滑动右边的撬片一直到iPad底部那个角的位置。
This is it. This was the step where I cracked the screen and ruined the device. Things had been going so well up to this point. Like many others I struggled with the iOpener, so I used a heat gun along with a temperature sensor and very carefully and slowly went back and forth along the edges keeping the temperature at exactly 200 degrees F. I got the pick in, went around the top corners, down the sides to the middle. But on this step where you finish sliding the pick to the bottom right corner, I got 3/4ths of the way down and CRACK. The glass shattered pretty badly in the corner, and there’s a crack running diagonally along the entire device. I put clear packing tape on top to keep it from cracking further, but sections of the screen are non-responsive. I can’t tell you how upset my 5 year old is going to be when he wakes up tomorrow and I have to tell him daddy wrecked his iPad. :( I believe strongly in the Right to Repair and this kit is fine. But GO SLOWLY, and BE CAREFUL.
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滑动左边的撬片一直到iPad底部那个角的位置。
I made it one step farther than the person above me. Made it about 1 inch from the bottom left corner and the screen shattered. I probably let it cool too much as I think I was getting a little impatient by now. The kit is great though. I successfully removed the rest of the screen even after it broke with no damage to anything else. I continued on to replace the battery and bought a new LCD (This was a roughly $130 mistake). I stress, go slowly, heat often. Kit worked great otherwise.
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移开右侧的撬片。
F…ing cracked the glass. This repair is a waste of time and money. The iOpener is b.s. You need to use a heat gun and/or a blow dryer. I had used the heat gun and a blow dryer to successfully separated the glass from the body until I reached the bottom. This is becuase I had left the heated iOpener on the bottom for at least 20 minutes. I used the blow dryer for the top and sides and it worked. When I turned the corner on the bottom, the glass shattered. The tip of pick was not in very far, maybe 2mm. Guess my only option now is a new iPad.
same here, and I’m not using their $2 dinky microwave palm rest, I have a head gun and I’ve been heating this thing for 20 mintues side by side. Still cracked the class. Don’t attempt this, to do this successfully you should’ve had cracked 10 screens.
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移除单个固定电池端子与逻辑板连接的 1.8 mm Phillips螺丝。
Be very careful when replacing the screws not to lose them. They are micro small. I would even think about ordering a couple extra of each size just in case.
I have damge this battery terminals to their contacts on the logic board when I remove the battery. So how to fix this? Can buy that hardware to make replacement? Urgent! Need Help!
Hi jackwong,
If you are talking about the small springs that contact the battery, there is no easy way to replace them. You can try removing the board, applying a lump of solder on the contact with the broken spring, and see if that will be sufficient to connect to the battery contact when the board is screwed down.
If the LTE version being worked on, ensure the sim tray is removed before attempting to isolate the battery.
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将电池撬片滑动到电池端子和逻辑板连接的下方,然后在您工作的时候就无需理会撬片。
Where am I supposed to get this part? I got the ifixit pro toolkit and didn't get this isolation pick
Since the battery blocker is a specialized tool used only for iPad repairs, we do not include it in the toolkit. You can purchase one here, or you can make one yourself by cutting a notch out of an opening pick.
Can’t you just disconnect the battery?
Orochi: right?? Come on guys, don’t tell us the method is outdated and then not explain what the better method is
A couple points: 1) You have piqued my interest! I’m now looking for the new, improved way to isolate the battery before embarking on the repair. 2) I have an iPad Air 2 with LTE, the area on ifixit.com for the LTE variant of the model does not have all the procedures that this WIFI only variant page has.
Hey bentley,
If you find a way to safely isolate the battery without the risk of damaging the connector pins, keep us posted!
I did not do this part and had no problems. Just don’t bridge any metal parts with the screwdriver. (at least I assume this is what would cause a short)
Actually you can cause some shorts with your fingers too. You can skip this step, but you must bee very carefull going on.
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将前面板与后壳分离。
Note on my iPad Air there was a little plastic cover around the front facing camera. Take that off an put it to one side as you will need it later for reassembly.
At this stage I found you do not need to do most of the rest of this guide although it does come with a warning. The battery is tethered to a metal ring which is the base of the retention screw in step 29. After Step 33, you can separate out the batteries from its adhesive now with a blow dryer or the iOpener (step 56). You will then find the battery free but hooked onto the ring. Take the blue opening tool (see step 55 for which tool this is) and wedge it where the battery is to make a gap. You can then lift the battery contact from its hook. After removing the battery, insert the new one into the small gap created by the wedge. The caveat is that you are bending the logic board a bit with the wedge so use this technique at your discretion.
Raza Toosy - 回复
Thanks a lot! For my Celluar version (A1567 Air 2 Wi-Fi + Cellular), I followed the instructions to step 45 to remove all cables and connectors around the battery. Then I also jumped to step 56. To remove the middle part of the battery, I used a longer tool, a ruler, in addition to the enclosed "Plastic Cards". The glued battery could be removed by using the iOpener several times. In the end, the battery was only hanging on the clamp.
Only now I understood that the battery was hanging on an eyelet on the back. The lever with the "iPad Battery Isolation Pick" was not enough. Therefore I cut an additional credit card with a small slot. The clamping point slipped out of the eyelet. The clamping point of the new battery could be plugged in again immediately.
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移除下列将顶壳元件线缆支架与平板相固定的十字螺丝。
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2颗 1.6mm
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2颗 1.3mm
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将上部组件电缆支架从保护盖下滑出,并将其从iPad上取下。
Reinstalling the upper component bracket was tricky for me. It is difficult to get the bracket in proper orientation to replace screws and under the flaps at the same time.
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断开耳机插孔电缆连接器与逻辑板上的插座的连接。
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将电缆撬起来,将其从将其固定到后壳的粘合剂中分离。
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将音频插孔电缆从下面的逻辑板中拔出。
!!!! WARNING !!!!! If you have an LTE model, you MUST carefully remove the tape on the left side of the connector, and remove the ZIF connector for the upper LTE antennae **BEFORE** you attempt to pull the headphone jack cable all the way back!! Amazing this step isn’t in this guide already.
!!!! WARNING !!!!! If you have the LTE model, this guide also fails to note the upper right (from the back) LTE antennae connector, located right next to the microphone/power button connector. If you don’t carefully remove it with a spudger and lift the stiff ribbon out of the way, you will break said ribbon. And then you will be very sad, as I am now. Crud. Is this part available?
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卸下将lightning端口连接到后壳的四个1.6毫米十字螺丝。
At step 50: before removing the four screws, remove the tape that covers the upper two screws.
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按照iOpener加热指南中的步骤准备一个iOpener。
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将iOpener沿着iPad背面的顶部放置2-3分钟以软化固定逻辑板的粘合剂。
I found the iOpener to be very useful for removing the logic board. I heated it up, placed it on the table, and set the required section of my iPad on top of it (back side down - so exactly the opposite of the photo above). This way, I could work on removing the logic board while the iOpener provided a constant source of heat for softening the glue.
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移走逻辑板
When reassembling be very careful not to have the ZIF connectors below the logic board. You can't get them out again without removing the logic board. This mistake happened to me *twice*. Fortunately it was not too difficult to fix. Also during reassembly you have to put the battery disconnector clip back in its place while dropping the logic board on the battery connector. DO NOT push the logic board onto its adhesive near the disconnector clip because it can break the board. Only fasten the board to the adhesive after the disconnector clip has been removed.
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您可以按照指南相反的顺序来将您的设备重新安装回原样。
您可以按照指南相反的顺序来将您的设备重新安装回原样。
145等其他人完成本指南。
特别感谢这些译者︰
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42条评论
Can the iPad air 2 battery be replaced without removing logic board or do all the internal components have to be dismantled before battery can be replaced?
The battery contacts are pinned underneath the logic board, so it's difficult to remove with the logic board in place. There's also very little room to work with the logic board installed, so there's an increased risk of damaging something with a wayward swipe of your card or pry tool. But yes, it's possible. You can reference this guide for tips on the procedure (it's for a different model but the same overall strategy will work).
I've just completed this fix (among 4-5 others previously). First comment here b/c this was an unusual repair. The biggest surprise about this fix (or anything to do with the internals of an iPad): the size of the screws! I'm surprised it isn't mentioned at the top, along with the PN000 driver: these things are literally the size of a grain of sand! So, taking them out is the easy part. Putting them back in is a trick. The secret: place them on the holes first, in whichever direction, then maneuver them btw fingernail and driver into correct position. You'll need something to anchor the screen in a vertical position to use both hands. Not mentioned in Jeff and AMT's comments: there is a loop in the battery contact. Not removing the logic board means you'll be breaking the loop on the old battery to remove it, and you'll need to snip the loop on the new battery to insert it. It all worked for me. It made the actual fix a fraction of the steps from the written one (just 4 screws removed), but it's risky.
I bought the $20 repair kit to go along with the lithium ion battery. The suction cup and the heating tube did not work even after multiple attempts to use the heating tube. I had to resort to a hair dryer and use a straight razor to pry the edge just enough to slip a pick in there. I did find incredible use for the magnetized screw drivers and spudgers.
I bought the iFixIt lithium ion battery replacement and once reassembling the iPad Air 2 (double checking each connection for fit and order), it still does not turn on. ugh…
Please provide a link for the Genuine Battery to buy
Pravi Sush - 回复
You can’t buy genuine batteries separately, as Apple will not provide them. If you want an Apple Genuine battery, you will have to take the iPad to an Apple Service Agent and have them replace it for you.
Please provide the link Or Source to Buy the Original Battery. Thanks
Pravi Sush - 回复
Really no need to remove the logic board. Use a syringe to apply some Goo B Gone around the outside edge of the battery and in the gap in the center, but not the edge next to the logic board - also, don’t flood it and make a mess, just enough to make contact with the adhesive. Let sit for about an hour and then use heat and playing cards as usual. Once the battery is free, heat the back of the tablet where the logic board sits and again use playing cards to lift the logic board just enough so that the battery contact board can clear the alignment peg. I’ve used this procedure a few times now with no issues - just take your time…
Hi
Can ipad air 2 battery be used for ipad air 1?
Thanks
When you are replacing the screen, do you need a sticky pad to fix the screen in place ? If you where can I purchase? I don’t see anything mentioned about replacement for existing screen on iPad Air 2.
If you’re using the iFixit kit, it comes with replacement adhesive for the screen. If not, you’ll need to get either pre-cut adhesive strips (recommended) or use some strong double-sided adhesive tape like Tesa 61395.
which temperature must be used for heating? Thx
fbarletta - 回复
I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.
By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.
Fredrik -
I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.
windizy - 回复
I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.
Martin Gray - 回复
I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier
Jan Van Puymbroeck - 回复
I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.
Laurie Higgins - 回复
Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.
Yousef Ghalib - 回复
I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).
ian cheong - 回复
Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener
Tim Feyaerts - 回复
The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.
polleyphony - 回复
The iOpener did not work at all for me.
I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.
Mike Jeanette - 回复
Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.
Kyle - 回复
The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.
laurentvidu - 回复
I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.
breadandbits - 回复
My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.
trebor65 - 回复
My experience pt2
Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.
trebor65 - 回复
Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.
I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier
gazza667 - 回复
I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).
Dennis - 回复
Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg
Manu R - 回复
If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.
Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?
mpulliam - 回复
Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …
Esmond Pitt - 回复