难度
困难
步骤
34
所需时间
30分钟 - 2小时
- Lower Case 3个步骤
- Battery Connector 5个步骤
- Battery Contact Board 第一步
- I/O Board Data Cable 3个步骤
- Right Speaker 4个步骤
- Left Speaker 4个步骤
- SSD Assembly 2个步骤
- Battery 12个步骤
特色指南
iFixit的工作人员认为该指南特别酷。
简介
Use this guide to safely remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro with the help of an iFixit battery replacement kit. The adhesive remover in your kit will dissolve the adhesive securing the battery, allowing you to remove it with ease. The battery is made up of six distinct cells, four of which are adhered to the upper case.
iFixit adhesive remover is highly flammable. Perform this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame during this procedure.
For your safety, drain your MacBook Pro's battery before you begin this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured. If your battery is swollen, take extra precautions.
Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive can damage certain plastics, such as the MacBook Pro's plastic speaker enclosures. Take care when applying the solvent.
If you're using the old-style iFixit adhesive remover with separate bottle and syringe (no longer sold), click here for a slightly modified set of instructions.
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Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
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Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
This plastic cover wasn’t included with the new battery so I placed the original one back in. Was it supposed to go back in? This detail wasn’t clear since the original cover didn’t fit exactly over the newer battery connector. Plus any stickiness of adhesive that may have been there was gone.
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Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:
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Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws
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One 7.0 mm T6 Torx shouldered screw
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Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.
I lost this screw! How important is it? Will it be okay with just the 3 previously removed screws?
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Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.
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Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.
WHy to remove battery contact board? Replace can happen without it also, right.
You don’t want to work on a live system as you could damage parts
Dan -
you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.
What happens if the Battery Contact Board fails?
racoon2956 - 回复
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.
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Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector.
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Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Move the SSD cable connector out of the way.
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Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector.
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Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:
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One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw
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Two 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws
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There are two 6.8mm screws, both fit to the side of the Macbook.
On my "Early 2013" A1425 EMC2672 the corner screw is under some metallic foam that needs to be removed with tweezers or the corner of a spudger before the screw can be accessed.
On my Early 2013 A1425 EMC2672 the corner screw is covered by foam that needs to be removed with tweezers or the corner of a spudger before the screw can be accessed.
For me the corner screw was covered by metal sponge that needs to be removed before the screw can be accessed.
For me the corner screw was covered by metal sponge
For me the corner screw was covered
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:
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One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw (top right)
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Two 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws
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The 6.3mm screw appears to be on the lower central part of the Macbook that I'm working on.
On my Early 2013 A1425 EMC2672 the screw in the corner is under some metallic foam that needs to be removed before the screw.
Be very careful on this step. If you aren’t you can snap the plastic on the corners where the screws go in. Remember to go slowly when spinning the screws back in, it doesn’t take gorilla torque to tighten them, just take it easy!
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Use your thumb or finger to bend the plastic spring bar on the SSD tray, freeing the two clips at the front side of the device.
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While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.
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Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total).
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To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.
Steps 24-34 are UNNECESSARY for this repair! Removing the adhesive portion of the battery is not required to remove the trackpad. Just lift up the top part of the battery that is screwed in and unplug the trackpad cable.
bizwfshane - 回复
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Insert the flat edge of a spudger or plastic card underneath the leftmost battery cell.
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Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive.
This is the most difficult step. The tip of my spudger got bended and the aluminum case damaged it.
I also broke a spudger trying to do this. Eventually I figured out it is easier to go in diagonally from the corner, just to one side of the screw hole, and lever until you hear the adhesive pad tear and give way.
we use a hair dryer and gently blow hot air in between the battery for a good minute before trying to lift it with a spunger. It worked wonderfully! When lifting, just give it constant force upward and you'll hear the battery slowly breaking away from the macbook, and we don't even see glue residues on our macbook at all. Just be patient. :)
Just a note to say that the above comments were written before the liquid adhesive remover was added to the guide—you should definitely NOT be breaking any spudgers using the current procedure, which requires very little force. I recommend using plastic cards rather than spudgers—it's pretty easy to slide them under each battery cell and separate the adhesive once the solvent has done its work.
This is much easier to do using a plastic card. Just slide the card under the side of the battery and rock it back and forth. The battery will separate pretty quickly with minimal residue.
by a plastic card, do you mean a credit card type thing? thanks in advance.
Exactly—one of these or an old credit card should work fine.
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Repeat the above steps to separate the adjacent battery cell from its adhesive:
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Apply a few drops of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell.
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Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the adhesive.
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Carefully wedge a spudger or plastic card inwards, being careful to not damage the battery, and separate the battery cell from the adhesive securing it to your MacBook Pro.
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Switch sides and repeat the above procedure for the two battery cells on the right-hand side of the MacBook Pro.
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Remember to add a small amount of liquid adhesive remover under each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate before prying up the cell.
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Puncturing the battery’s protective covering can lead to release of caustic fumes or fire.
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Lift the battery as a whole up out of the upper case, and remove the battery.
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Calibrate your new battery before using it: allow it to drain overnight, then charge it to 100% and drain it again until your MacBook Pro shuts down automatically. Charge it again and use it normally.
During battery replacement take care to position the two left and right battery packs inwards and upwards towards the macbook center such, that there is sufficient space for reinstallation of the two speakers!
If you're replacing the top case that includes a new battery, can't you skip removal of the battery?
Yes!! If uppercase Assembly(Includes Trackpad, keyboard, Palmrest & BATTERY) is being replaced, there is no need to remove battery from old uppercase assembly.
lamajr -
Wie setze ich die Zyklen wieder auf 0 wenn ich einen neuen Akku verbaut habe?
@Albert: you don’t need to reset the cycles as it is done automatically.
When you are at this step and before you put the new battery in, take the time to clean your computer really well. You will be surprised how much dust/dirt and even pet hairs have gotten into your computer. After I removed the battery, I use a little more of the acetone to clean the bays up and after it dried, I used a tiny bit of Isopropyl Alcohol to make sure there was a good clean area for the new bonding. Make sure you clean the fans. Don’t use a toothbrush or anything like that. If your have a Lowes or Home Depot, you can buy a shop vac attachment kit for about $20, it’s well worth it. Don’t use that air in a can crap, it will put moisture on circuits. Take your time, it’s not a hard task to do everything, just use a little patience.
thanks to everyone for the helpful comments along with this really good tick list of things to do. The main thing I have learned is, I don’t have the patience to do this so I am taking my macbook pro (early 2013) 90 odd miles to my nearest Apple store with a Genuis bar. They can sort it for me. They might charge a lot to do it, but at least it will be them risking messing the process up not me! Thanks again.
Really well done on this. I followed it to a T. Perfect. Thank you for all your work on this.
Excellently communicated.
I wouldn’t have thought to drain my old battery! (Which means I cannot begin my ‘new battery install’ until later today.
Hi all,
After installing the new batteries, my mac is not powering up… Do i need to charge the battery first and then check again? Have anyone faced similar issue before?
My 1st battery from ifixit came out to be defective and it caused fire at the centre of the long battery. I have got a replacement for the defective piece which i have installed now. However, now i am worried that connecting to power could lead to any potential fire / harm to my mac???
Already i have spent lot of time in this and it would be very upsetting if this battery spoils my mac!!!
Any suggestion people???? thanks in advance!
BR,
Vijay
Hi Vijay!
Uh-oh, we’re sorry to hear about the battery trouble!
Our batteries come with a 1-year warranty, so this would definitely be something we can assist with. Please feel welcome to reach out via help.ifixit.com and provide our Support team with your order number so that they can look into these battery troubles with you.
Thanks!
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
142等其他人完成本指南。
42条评论
Hi where can u buy the battery for these
Did you find out where to buy?
Uli -
There is a much easier way to get the batteries out. If you look at the 2 cells on either side (left and right), you will notice that they put them in an area that is slightly lowered. This is by design. To remove the batteries, pour a small amount of 90% isopropyl alcohol on both sides and let it sit for about 30 to 45 mins. It will dissolve the glue and you can gently then lift out the batteries without any prying. After you remove the batteries, simply wipe up any remaining alcohol, let it dry, buff it clean, and insert the new battery. Considerably easier and safer than potentially damaging the battery packs. If you are putting the same battery pack back, just use double sided tape. IMPORTANT NOTE: ALWAYS BE SAFE USING ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL AROUND FLAMES OR ANYTHING THAT MIGHT MAKE IT BURN. ALSO, NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRY THE BATTERIES IN ANY WAY IF ANY ALCOHOL IS STILL POTENTIALLY PRESENT!! WAIT UNTIL IT IS EVAPORATED!!
jimhoffa69 - 回复
Thank You for the hint with the alcohol, but where can I buy a spare battery?
Uli -
Prying the battery out is HARD! and VERY dangerous. I tried using a flat head screwdriver, put it under the battery and twisting the thing out. DO NOT DO THAT!! as it can punch a hole in the battery if you twist it too hard. I had a small smoke coming off by doing that and was lucky enough it didn't burn. Using isopropyl would be an ideal solution. But to bad I can't find that around here :(.
[DO THIS ON YOUR OWN RISK] What I ended up doing is using the screwdriver to gouge the underlying glue out as much as I can on the side (about 10%) and use fingers to pry it up. Good luck!
Perfect! not as difficult as it looked first, especially with the proper tools. To take the batteries out the alcohol (I used ethanol used for cleaning purposes) works like charm. I put a few ml in nearby the batteries, waited maybe 20min and was able to pry them out easily. Tried before without the alocohol and nothing moved. I ordered the battery on ebay for 70€ and it has the same numbers and text as the original it says apple japan as well. My old battery had more than a thousand cycles after 3 years and did not last vey long. Now the software shows 0 cycles and it is charging starting at 15% and will be fully charged in 2:45h. I think apple charges 249€ for the job here in Gernany. It took me about 1 hour to replace it (with waiting).
How much ethanol was necessary to remove the battery? Did you use a spudger or similar to pry it out? I just put about 3 ml of Isopropanol nearby the battery and waited for about 30 minutes. Unfortunately I couldn't remove it though. It still was firmly glued.
Tim Bo -
Thanks for the excellent instructions. They were easy to follow and the new battery is working. I purchased my battery on Amazon from Brtong for $49.99. I just installed it so I don't know how long it will last but it was new and the cheapest price. It came with two tools to remove all the screws.
This is a great resource. Thanks to all that contributed to this. I was able to replace my battery today and all went well. I had a very hard time removing the old battery. The spudger broke on me and I was afraid to use alcohol so I used a screw driver and sure enough, sparks flew removing the old battery. But got it done.
Thanks again to all and ifixit.com
Thanks for the guide! Perfectly presented. Took me about an hour following the steps.
t's very important to keep organized during this replacement for ease of reassembly as there may be different size/length screws in the same step.
Someone else had mentioned using isopropyl alcohol to remove the adhesive from the batteries which is truly a great idea.
In my specific case, isopropyl alcohol was not something I had on hand. As a substitute, I used my wife's nail polish remover since Acetone evaporates fairly well (yay high school science class FTW) and sure enough, they came loose no problem. This method is NOT guaranteed, but to the careful DIYer can work great in a pinch.
Followed this point to point description and it worked like a charm (Isopropyl alcohol also helped)! (Isopropyl alcohol is sold under different brand names.)
Screws described in points 15 and 19 are not exactly as my MacBook. You describe 2 long and 1 short. I have 1 short black screw and 2 long screws (1 black and 1 silver) - the silver one in the corner and is hidden and covered by "metal wool" (peel it of).
Sadly this was a disaster for me.
All went well at first. I was able to follow all the instructions, and I used some alcohol, since the batteries were very hard to remove. Make sure the force you apply is aimed downward, to scrape through into the adhesive. And don't use much. When the battery is ready to come up free, it will. Don't rush it and pry upward until it's really starting to lift, meaning the glue is giving way.
The rest of the instructions are easy, so I thought. I actually managed to break the left speaker connector from the board. I wasn't too worried, as I don't use the computer speakers much anyway. On reassembly, I tried to glue the connector back. Doubt that worked.
I was able to reassemble the whole machine. When I powered it on (with cable), the battery was recognized (system report) but WOULD NOT charge. The system then started to degrade. Mouse and keyboard started malfunctioning. It's dead. Will return the battery, and go shopping.
Just performed this today suing the same brtong battery from Amazon that someone else mentioned. $50 on Amazon. The instructions were perfect. All worked like a charm. I was scared off at first due to the stated difficulty. It is possible the glue on mine wasnt very good maybe. But seriously, anyone considering doing this, do it. It is not hard. And well worth it.
Aaron West - 回复
Worked like a charm. Except my batteries were harder to pry off than the guide would lead me to believe. Other than that, perfect, and now I've got a brand new battery. Tip: the batteries for late 2012 AND early 2013 13" MacBook Pros are the same, so you can get a battery that's listed as either.
Really useful and unbelievably specific instruction. All crystal clear on every step.
The battery removal part was really tricky, and I ended up making a wedger of my own - about 4 cm wide plywood piece that I cut at an angle (so there would be a wedge) and sanded smooth (to not damage the batteries). I found that the wide tool provided much more lifting force, while distributing the pressure equally along the whole length of battery sides.
It's definitely not as hard as it first seems. Go for it!
Just finished replacing my battery. 30 minutes start to finish. There's nothing difficult or too risky if you keep organized and follow these excellent step-by-step instructions. Couple of tips: absolutely agree with using isopropyl alcohol to loosen old adhesive, also – I printed out the instructions and just taped the screws/parts to the appropriate step/picture with a bit of masking tape and stacked them on top of each other as I went (in order), this way going back was a breeze! Go for it!
Fantastic instructions!I had no issues completing the battery change in a little over an hour, at a leisurely pace. Took my time to make sure I did every step just right. Acetone worked for me (Thanks for the tip Daniel). Slightly different screws from those in the instructions, as with Einar. Had the instructions on my desktop while doing the battery change on the laptop. Now the new battery is in full charge, and the MacBook works as before. The battery is not an OEM part, so we'll see how long it will last... Thank you Walter + all who chipped in!
Thank you- is there any place where I can buy the correct tools to remove the battery?
I bought all tools on Aliexpress, it costs there just few dollars.
micer -
Really helpful guide, I just installed a new battery and seems like it works great! It took me about 2 hours, the tricky part was to remove the old battery as others said. I used some liquid for glue removal, I think it should be available in every shop with paints and lacquers etc. I took a piece of fabric, put it into the liquid and pushed it under the battery until I could easily remove it. Finally not so difficult, but I can't imagine removing the battery without the liquid to melt the glue. Btw I bought a battery on Aliexpress for $45, hope it'll live for a while.
I just installed a new Egoway Macbook Pro 13 inch Retina Display battery (the instructions were great!). Powered it up and got nothing. Plugged it in and it worked but my battery icon has a 'X' through it and it says 'No Battery Available'.
Can someone please help????
Thank you!
Try resetting the SMC. (This is in the guide, but it's the very last step so folks sometimes overlook it. It pays to read to the end!)
Hello
I performed the battery change without problems. But the battery connector board becomes super hot immediately after making contact with the mother board. And the machine has the same problems as before.
Is this a short on the mother board/SMC? Or could I have gotten a faulty battery replacement?
Thanks
I suppose it's possible you got a defective battery. I would try reconnecting the old battery and see whether that solves the problem. You may not have to re-do the entire procedure—instead, see if you can disconnect the new battery you already installed, lay the old battery directly on top of it, plug it in, and tape it down temporarily so you can flip the laptop over and boot it up. If this resolves this issue, you probably have a bad battery. And if it doesn't, drop your question into a post in our Answers forum for more detailed troubleshooting. Good luck!
Great Guide - Thanks!
My repair went off without a hitch. I used iFixit's part-only new replacement battery (which showed full capacity after installation) and my wife's nail polish remover as a solvent to loosen the adhesive. I poured a few ml's into each slight depression (i.e. under each battery pair), left that for around 20 mins to evaporate, then poured a tiny bit in again and gently pried each battery out with a spudger.
PS - I see the guide lists a T7 Torx as one of the needed tools, but I can't see where that would be needed in this repair. T5, T6 and P5 were all I needed.
The instructions were phenomenal!!! Congratulations to the author. I installed a SIKER11.21V 74WH that I bought from Amazon for $62.99. The only challenge I had is that the adhesive strips that came with the new battery were completely useless as I wasn’t able to remove the plastic layers that were covering them. I ended up removing the adhesives and used double-adhesive tape instead. The thickness was about right and there is little space for the battery cells to move once installed. The battery seems to be functioning well and is charging. Good luck to those adventurers willing to try.
Took about one hour. Pictures and directions and others comments were OUTSTANDING!
Turned on and speakers worked without a problem. Now letting the new battery drain.
Thanks for the great instructions and including everything I needed in the kit.
The operation seems to have worked fine for me, but afterwards I notice that the backlight for the bottom-center part of the keyboard is not lighting. The rest of the keyboard lights up just fine, so it’s really no trouble finding the keyboard in the dark.
I suspect that I was a little too liberal with the acetone and some of the overflow damaged one (or a few) of the keyboard LEDs. Another reason to be careful with how much solvent you apply.
Adam Smith - 回复
This is an absolutely wonderful guide. Thanks very much for providing it.
Don Abrams - 回复
Very nice guide, and the plastic alignment jig in the replacement battery was great!
I did find I was missing some of the bits promised in the repair kit. I pulled out my generic Apple toolkit I’d bought a few years back, but was missing the driver for the six tiny screws holding down the main battery. A tiny flat blade fit and I was able to get them out. I then pulled out the syringe for the acetone….why is it clinking? Syringes don’t clink….and there were the missing bits, slipped inside the handle of the syringe during shipment!
This is a very easy operation. Yes, you can do it in a few less steps, but I chose to do it EXACTLY like the instructions, that way I had the least amount of opportunity to break anything. Yes, potentially removing so many items you have an opportunity to break something, but in my opinion, it’s worth it. At least you learn where the components are and what they look like that way. Very good guide. I’m not sure of their other guides, but if they are like this one, it definitely saves $100 bucks in labor plus $199 for the battery at an Apple Store!
Great guide. The only thing I’d recommend is that when you put the new battery in, don’t stick it down until you’re happy with where it’s going, and that the position leaves a slight gap between the battery packs, and that there’s also room for the speakers.
In my case I had one issue - the interposer wasn’t sitting properly so although the magsafe showed an orange light for charging, when booted up into the OS it showed that it wasn’t charging. I had to go back in and re-seat the interposer. Now working fine!
Do not be scared by the ‘Difficult’ label! If you ever assembled legos as a kid, this should be no problem for you. Just follow the instructions and you’ll be set. Some things I wish I knew that the guide does not mention:
1. The additional screwdriver bits are inside of it. Pull the cap off the end to find them. Took me about 20 mins to realize this.
2. The kit no longer comes with the syringe so no need to mix anything/draw it up. Just use the tip dispenser for the acetone remover.
3. When you put the battery in and are ready to take the plastic cover off, don’t pull up on the blue tipped pull tabs. You have to pull them outwards horizontally and they will come out. I kept pulling them up and away and they were just tearing. Led to me literally needing to snap/break the plastic card attached to battery to get it off.
Good luck and great replacement kit!
Muchas gracias, la compra y el envío sin problemas. Hoy la recibí y en un rato coloqué la batería. Un éxito, gracias a todos los que contribuyeron a que esto sucediera
Absolutely amazing! It was the first time I ever opened a Macbook Pro, but it took me less than 60 minutes to reboot with the new battery. All rolled out smoothly. with a minor hindrance when reattaching the battery connector. The wiring was a bit stiff so I had to proceed with even more caution. As for the rest, awesome 90€ investment in my MBP to have it juiced up again. Just reset the SMC and I am 69% with 5H6M remaining. Thank you, Walter and ifixit!
I decided not to use the adhesive on the new battery- why make life difficult for the next time the battery needs swapping out? the cells will rattle if you don’t fix them somehow, though, so after I was sure everything was working (coconut battery app can read make & s/n of new battery, & states capacity as 110% of original, which is nice), I tucked a couple of iphone screen cloths in there instead.
I managed to lift the smaller cells away from the case just with the ifixit card & patient force. I used a few drops of goo-gone under the larger cells & to clean up the residual glue. I could definitely do this a lot quicker next time.
thanks all at ifixit!
duncan rmi - 回复
