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Hey I'm setting up an iPhone 5c I just put a screen onto, and it's stuck in this strange language! How do I go about fixing this, or could someone translate for me?
This is the phone in question
Julia Bondareva @juliabondareva
信誉积分： 25
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Well, I'll tell you I'm no genius at this, (can't access picture) definitely not a professional, but normally if you want to change the language you can go into the settings (the gray icon with the gears) and go to the seventh group of options in "General" (the gray gear in settings) and the last one should be language and going into the first option should be the device's language I believe. Once you get a little box with a bunch of languages the first one should be English.
I'm sorry this probably sounds confusing- I'm no professional and I'm going off my iPad Air so I'm sorry if it doesn't work- I just recently posted a question and saw yours unanswered and thought I'd give it a try.
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信誉积分： 13
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...
So I'm not sure what the part is called so I'll do my best guesstimate, I need to replace the little 2"X1.25" transparent LCD screen attached with a ribbon cable inside this projector, the whole center is like burnt its got a big black spot well it did project a black spot before I ripped the ribbon cable anywho ... Where can I get that part and is it even cheap enough to be worth it...
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COMPLETION ANSWER
In most cases, the repair cost can be as much as the unit when the LCD "burns" like this. On the new generation of cheap projectors, the same problem also occurs due to the COB LED toasting the LCD due to poor cooling, but these have a similar problem: they also have poor cooling which toasts the LCD, but you also are using a Halogen bulb as the light source which gets even hotter so it is a lot worse on the initial occurrence; the COB LEDs burn up the new ones very similarly (heat) but it tends to hide a bit and just get worse with no warning. These older cheap units with the halogen bulb burn like this a lot faster due to running a lot hotter inside. If you run a bright LED flashlight for 5 minutes and touch the head you'll get a small idea of how bad the heat gets within a short amount of time in these.
If the unit still works they can sometimes be saved by upgrading the fan, but once the damage is done it's done; you can't undo the damage and the repair cost totals it out. This is why I detest these and would much rather pay a lot more for a used Epson/BenQ/Optoma/any known brand portable unit, even with a "consumable" lamp; they do not die in 6 months-1 years due to heat-induced LCD damage.
For these, the parts are probably unobtainable without a donor which may have the same failure mode. It's probably time to recycle this unit and get a new one, but try and look for a used surplus projector that came from an office -- and if you go DLP, make sure it doesn't have an issue with the DMD. One bad "mirror" means the expensive DMD is on borrowed time. These things are so bad I would only buy one if it comes with a nice projector screen for not much more than a standalone, use and abuse it in places I wouldn't put my Epson through and dump it when it dies due to this fault.
If it's DLP and has a bad DMD this is what it devolves to:
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I accidentally use the wrong power supply. I have a Sony KDL-32W600D manufactured in August 2018. It uses a Sony 19.5 V AC adapter Model ACDP-045S03 with an output of 19.5V / 2.35 A. I used a DC power supply with OUTPUT: 48.0V = 2.0A 96 W. The TV no longer shows any sign of life. Will not power on, show lights or anything. Why did I damage? Is it repairable? Parts? Testing?
信誉积分： 756千
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@soccerpro most likely will be a damaged main board. You would have to try a new and correct power board and a new main board. Also check the fuse on the T-con board since that may have gone too. We will need to see the boards to help you find the issues.
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This post is about installing ChromeOS Flex on a Mac mini with dual SSD drives and how to somehow pick the target drive manually.
I successfully installed ChromeOS Flex on a four-core Mac mini Intel Core i7. This OS will run on almost any 64-bit PC or Mac hardware. It even works very well on my ancient but heavily upgraded Mid 2007 Core2Duo iMac, because after all that is an AMD64-based machine too. That is not the issue here and I have no complaints about how ChromeOS works. It is what it is and that’s just fine, and if you don’t like it then there are many other fine operating systems out there. I like ChromeOS quite a lot because it is so simple, secure and wicked fast.
ChromeOS has ONE MAJOR FLAW, however, and it is really serious and also remarkably stupid. Unlike almost every other operating system that has ever existed in the world, yes, even the Devil’s own OS, Windows, the ChromeOS installer DOES NOT let you pick which hard drive or partition you want to use! If you proceed, and your computer has only a single internal SSD or hard drive, the installer will simply erase that and wipe out any partitions and destroy every bit of information you may have on it and greedily, ruthlessly, gobble up the entire drive. And, of course, unlike every other OS, it won’t let you use external drives either.
In addition, ChromeOS uses a very funky partitioning scheme that not even the best Linux, Windows or Mac partitioning tools can handle properly. It uses a number of overlapping, unknown, home made, nonstandard partitions and other crazy things just to be extremely difficult. And while it is possible to clone a ChromeOS drive (and I have done it) it is not at all easy. Google REALLY does not want you to be free and will not allow you to make your own choices.
To make things a little clearer, below is the original drive configuration of that computer:
disk0 / APPLE SSD / Lower / SM 128E. This is an SSD made by Samsung.
disk1 / APPLE HDD / Upper / 1 TB HTS… and then some long and tedious number or other. This is a hard drive made by Hitachi.
These two form a logical “Hybrid Drive” that may have been a good idea in the summer of 2012 but a ridiculous thing today.
Now, when I installed ChromeOS Flex on this Mac mini, for some reason the installer picked the much slower disk1, wiped it squeaky clean and took it over. This worked very well, but the installer did not even bother to ask: “Now then, citizen, dear customer, do you want to use disk1 or disk0 for ChromeOS? Or perhaps some external drive of your choice?” Oh, nooooooo…. Freedom of choice… We can’t have that, can we?
This disk1 is a regular, old style, very worn, mechanical, spinning 1 TB Hitachi hard drive, and it’s in the “upper” and almost inaccessible slot, the drive bay closest to the Mac mini’s metal enclosure… but the lower drive when you see it from the perspective of most of us. To pull out disk1 you have to basically disassemble the whole Mac mini and even pull out the logic board. It is below the more accessible disk0, the drive bay that is located directly under the metal antenna plate and in this case holds a 128 GB Samsung SSD drive… This is the “lower” slot…
OK, so finally, after all this talking (and I apologize for boring you numb and senseless with my dreary blah), here is my absolutely fascinating question to you. Do any of you good people out there in the known universe happen to know how ChromeOS auto-magically picks the install drive? (And if there is a way to manually FORCE it to use either disk.) Why did it grab the slow disk1 and not the much faster disk0 in this case?
I will replace the old Hitachi hard drive and install a new SSD there as disk1, or move the existing 128 GB SSD to this position. Will the ChromeOS installer pick disk1 again or will it use disk0?
It will be interesting to see what your responses will be. I am very thankful for any advice or information you might have. :D
Thanks in advance!
skjell, new member
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Sadly, the Fusion Drive config is not setup for alternative OS’s as the two drives are seen as a single logical drive from within the macOS.
The only way I can see this working is to setup an external drive for Chrome OS.
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I'm a little confused about this one. I have a Macbook that wasn't outputting video to the screen (but works to a monitor). I took a screen from a parts machine with a bad logic board, and put it on half way (I didn't connect the battery or half of the screws, just enough to hold it in place and turn it on). When I did this, it booted up fine. So I went and put the rest of the screws in, and now it behaves like the old screen, where the backlight come on but no video.
Any ideas?
Thanks
信誉积分： 469.8千
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I would check the Lid sensor at this point. The Hall sensor is located on the logic board just above the USB-C sockets in the outside corner. It’s on the backside so you can’t see it without taking the logic board out
To test things you can use a rare earth magnet sliding it across the top surface of the uppercase. To help locate the area take a steel paperclip carefully sliding it across the face of the display, you should note the magnet grabbing the paperclip. Now take note of the location using a piece of tape, then fold the display lid down to find the location on the uppercase so you can slide the magnet across.
If you have a second system give it a try there first so you get the idea.
Sadly, it only reacts when you bring the magnet to the sensor to turn the display off (Clam Shell Mode) in this case that won’t help you as the sensor is stuck in closed mode.
You could see if the sensor has a cold solder joint, otherwise this is a logic board replacement, and the display was likely OK.
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I'd like a longer title but it doesn't appear to be allowed.
So i'm looking to repair my USB DAC because it does not receive power unless the USB port is pushed in a certain direction. So I'm thinking that the solder points have broken.
I have taken it apart, however looking at the back and wobbling the connection I don't see any movement, so I *think* that the solder between the port and the connection point is whats broken, but due to other things on the PCB I can't get a good look (and it doesn't wobble much, theres 2 connections holding it in place so the other must still be good, probably wobbles maybe 0.5mm either way, but apparently thats enough to cause a disconnect from the pins). It could also be a pad, i'm not 100% sure.
So keeping in mind that I'm a complete begginer, and my limited supplies (I haven't ever soldered anything before, I only have a soldering station and some solder, no flux or any other equipment) what should I try? Should I just stick a soldering iron on the presumably broken joint and get it to hopefully re-solidify in the right way for it to fix my USB port and maintain contact with the pins? I have a small budget for this, $50 AUD if I need to get more supplies, any more then that and i'd rather just get a new DAC as it was just a bit over 100 AUD.
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@sol33t303 if you have never done this before, I suggest you get a couple of old practice boards first. It is not a terribly complicated repair but does require some practice. You do not want to damage the board or rip the traces because of a too cold or even a too hot iron. Even so YouTube can't teach you to solder, but there is at least enough information that may help you to get started on a successful repair. Even guides like this How To Solder and Desolder Connections - iFixit Repair Guide can be helpful. Practice, practice, practice will have the largest impact on a good repair.
Post some pictures of the loose connector etc. with your QUESTION. That way we can see what you see and maybe give you some pointers. Adding images to an existing question - iFixit Repair Guide
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Im trying to pick an ultrasonic cleaner, but i cant find any info on performance difference of Crest vs cheap chineese models.
How different are they when it comes to performance?
Ive seen some good reviews on this model:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Derui-Stainless...
How do crest products perform better considering almost 10x price difference?
信誉积分： 756千
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@migrantfleet that will be a tough question to answer. On here we are a self help forum and really not into repair tool review. Any answer that you might get is going to be subjective and may not be helpful to others, which is our ultimate goal. So I’d suggest that you post your question at the pro forum part. You can join them here https://pro.ifixit.com/
My opinion about tools etc. is that the one that works for me, is the better tool. It doesn't matter how much I spend on it for as long as it does what I expect it to do, it is a valuable tool.
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信誉积分： 11
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Hey all I am hoping there is someone out there who may be able to help me.
Recently I have been doing some research into micro soldering and would like to give it ago.
What equipment should i look at getting and what do I need to take into account.
Any advice would be great .
Thank you
信誉积分： 469.8千
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Jessa Jones created a set of vids with IFIXIT a few years ago which are very informative! Here’s the first in the series Microsoldering with Jessa Jones.
Theres a lot to it! Between getting the correct gear, you need the skills to read and understand schematics and lastly access to the needed SMT components.
And lastly practice! Lots of it!
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Capybara Potato @capybarapotato
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My plastic bits have gotten dirty; do i just soak the chips and stick wedger into hydrogen peroxide?
信誉积分： 756千
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@capybarapotato depends what kind of dirt it is. Regular dish soap and a scrubbing pad should clean it up. Hydrogen Peroxide is really more of a disinfectant than a cleaner. If you need a bit more oomph, use some citric acid.
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Backpack has worn hole in one corner. Is it better to try to sew it closed or use iron-on patch?
信誉积分： 756千
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@maebelley depends on where this hole is and how gig it is. Ultimately for a proper fit I would try to mend it instead of using and iron on patch. Now, you can use a patch but just sew it in instead of ironing it on. That will take some of the stress out of the material
糟糕！我想改变我的主意。
