Hi guys, I’ve followed your guide with extreme precaution, and everything went well, but after resealing the screen I noticed some yellowish backlight bleeding form the left edge and near the top left corner, (and a very faint purple glow from all the corners, that might not even be a real problem, at least not to me) but the bleeding kind of ruins the otherwise wonderful experience of the 5k. Which is a pity.

If I press on the edge I can move the glow and even make it disappear , which makes me think it might be related to the re-sealing process. Did any of you encounter this issue?

This is more or less what I see, a little less exaggerated.

Is there any fix for this?

Any help, idea or suggestion would be greatly appreciated. I wouldn’t mind opening it again, if you think it could be the solution.

Thank you very much in advance.

Diego

So no one had this particular issue after opening a 4k/5k iMac?

I’m still suspicious that it could be related to a not-so-perfect gluing , and not a damage to the actual screen.

It’s extremely easy to damage these 27-inch displays in the process of removal. Slight flexing/bending of the display can cause dead pixels and visual marks to appear on the display. My guess is that there was subtle damage to the display while it was being removed or during the reinstallation process. Unfortunately I don’t think there is an easy fix. I would be cautious of putting further pressure on the display.

Hi guys, I’ve followed your guide with extreme precaution, and everything went well, but after resealing the screen I noticed some yellowish backlight bleeding form the left edge and near the top left corner, (and a very faint purple glow from all the corners, that might not even be a real problem, at least not to me) but the bleeding kind of ruins the otherwise wonderful experience of the 5k. Which is a pity.

If I press on the edge I can move the glow and even make it disappear , which makes me think it might be related to the re-sealing process. Did any of you encounter this issue?

This is more or less what I see, a little less exaggerated.

Is there any fix for this?

Any help, idea or suggestion would be greatly appreciated. I wouldn’t mind opening it again, if you think it could be the solution.

Thank you very much in advance.

Diego

So no one had this particular issue after opening a 4k/5k iMac?

I’m still suspicious that it could be related to a not-so-perfect gluing , and not a damage to the actual screen.

I replaced an iPhone 7 battery, but the glue stickers broke, so I should use pure force, to get it out, but the battery bent, and this made a hole on it. I felt a sweet smell, and ran out to the balcony. Are the chemicals, that came out any dangerous?

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Hey guys,

I’ve done a lot of things over the years, but not this one. I build older Macbook Pro systems for school kids , college bound, and cash challenged adults to use. I’ve got a late 2008 unibody (really 2009). I had everything restored and running great, especially with an SSD. Amazing how much speed it adds and both nVidia gfx cards mean no issues. Anyway, I notice that there was no Wifi or BT present on the system. I checked the connections and low and behold, the cable had a loose brass pin on the edge of the board connector, that eventually just fell off. I’m sure this must be the issue and can fix it with one of my salvage cables. At one point wiggling the loose pin brought BT back for a minute. The thing is, the cable is actually two cables wrapped together. One goes to the air card (easy), the other goes up behind the monitor, I’m assuming to the the iSight camera. I haven’t seen a procedure on how to replace this cable anywhere. I was hoping for some insights. Do I have to remove the screen and unplug the iSight camera? Can I just cut the cable end off and replace it with a salvaged end that’s in good shape? I could easily buy an adapter for it, but I’d rather have it restored to its original working order. Thanks IA for any help.

Here is picture of the funky cable that shoots up the back of the monitor, and connects to the wifi card, then jumps over to the logic board.

I’m not sure if the cable you have is good or bad from your description. Review this guide MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 LCD Replacement note the cables pathway to the Airport board.

Hi my Logitech Wireless mouse isn’t working. I’ve replaced the battery and doesn’t work. It’s a new battery cause I’ve tried with a couple different battery’s. The green light doesn’t turn on when I turn it on.

Model number: M325