Stops during spin cycle with UL

martina2020 besides the things that @mayer mentions, there are a few things that can cause this. Check the suspension kit of the drum to make sure that it is not excessively loose. Most commonly for this model is a failed rotor position sensor or a cracked stator on the motor. To check that, you will have to check the bottom on your washer. Make sure that the motor bolt is tight

The following images show how to get to those two parts.

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My Maytag Bravos has run flawlessly since bought new in 2010. About 2 to 3 weeks ago it started the constant uL error and shutdown, even when empty, run on drain and spin cycle. I followed all advice to repair it, but still the same. Now I will be installing an alternate, CCU, a used one, but guaranteed in good service order. Since problem started I have replaced the two bearings and shaft, replaced the suspension rods, replaced the RPS. I did all repairs in perfect condition. Mechanically this machine is in perfect condition, but I just ran it empty on “Drain and Spin", and it disappointed again. It shut down with uL code promptly at 8.5 minutes remaining in the cycle. It shuts down with UL code at 8.5 minutes remaining in the cycle EVERY TIME. I figured it has to be the CCU must be faulty since the shutdown time is the same, at 8.5 minutes remaining in the cycle. The Electronic Control Board will arrive soon and will be installed right away, only 30 minutes job. I examined the current control board visually, but did not see any visible problems, but going to install the replacement board regardless. I will update my comments when i do.

Hello! I finally figured it out. I had changed the tub seal and bearings and the suspension rods and springs. It worked fine for about a week. Then the UL kept coming on. Finally I gave it it one more chance and was going to see if the stator was cracked or if the bolt was loose. The stator was not cracked, but the bolt that tightens the stator was backed off about 1/4” inch. I think that I will use some thread lock on it next week, but for now, I stuck a screwdriver in one of the holes in he stator to keep it stationary while I tightened it down real good. It purrs like a kitten now, and more importantly, no UL code.

In my case I did the full bearing replacement. Once put back together same UL on final spin, plus a rubbing noice from below. Turns out the screw that holds the rotor onto the stator has a welded on washer and could only be tightened so much leaving a visible gap. I used a large cotter pin to fill that gap thus holding it tight. Fixed, runs nice n smooth. I could have replaced the screw but this worked for me.