简介
转到步骤 1Battery not lasting long? Swap it out (requires soldering).
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Carefully insert an iPod opening tool in the seam between the metal casing and white plastic bezel.
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Lift the bottom bezel off the iPod. It's glued on using a mild adhesive, so some force may be required.
I tried using a heat gun to soften the glue, but it ended up melting the white plastic part.
I used an Avid Power heat gun at setting 3 heat and 2 fan and did not melt it. I pointed it at the metal case not the plastic thanks to tip above and kept my hand wrapped around it so I could tell how hot it was getting. If it was too hot to keep my hand there then I deemed it would be too hot for the plastic. That seemed to do the trick and loosen the adhesive just a little bit to help with extraction. Thanks gordon.
I tried to get the bottom off but it would not budge I was not going to use a adhesive gun for safety what else should I try?
I highly suggest using a sewing needle to remove any adhesive/glue from ALL of the screws before you try to remove them. And I also noticed that the set of phillips screwdrivers I used were not true to their size. I had a lot of fun doing this project
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Remove the following two screws:
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One #00 Phillips screw with a large head near the headphone jack.
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One #000 Phillips screw with a smaller head near the side of the iPod. This screw strips easily, so be sure to press down firmly on the screwdriver.
my small screw is completely stripped, what can I do?
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Use a metal spudger to carefully pry the headphone jack out of the casing. DO NOT remove the headphone jack from the iPod entirely, as it is connected via a fragile ribbon connector to the click wheel.
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Remove the newly-revealed Phillips #00 screw from beneath the headphone jack. Be careful, this screw is easily stripped.
The screw on this step also stripped when I was following this tutorial, despite being very careful and taking the time for everything. This really happens _REALLY_ easily!
I too reassembled the iPod without this particular screw. So far I've noticed no side-effects from this.
Ultimately I was able to complete the whole guide and repair the Nano succesfully! :-D
i have also stripped this screw in this step. can i change the display without removing this screw? any help is greatly appreciated
I agree. You want to use a Philips #000 here.
I tried using a Phillips #00 and almost stripped it, but I got it out with a 1mm flathead (all of my other Phillips drivers were too large)
the 1mm flathead trick worked for me
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Use a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable from the logic board. You need to gently pry the connector toward (or up, if you like, the connector is like LEGO® building blocks) the front of the iPod until it comes loose from the logic board.
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Special hint for the reassembly: Push the connector inside until it is over the corresponding connector of the logic board. Then insert a thin tool over the connector and push it down onto the logic boards connector.
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Use a spudger to push the logic board through the iPod out of the casing. The click wheel and headphone jack should remain in the iPod.
Before pushing I carefully used the spudger to move the top bezel (with the hold switch) out of the case first. Be careful, it’s got a tiny ribbon cable. But getting that out first made the logic board slide out relatively easily.
I really appreciate that tip! Couldn’t get mine out until I did that and it slid right out
Timothy -
If you have a swollen battery, as I did, it was not possible to remove logic board. My case was visibly expanded near the top making everything inside locked in position. I did the disassembly before any part purchases. If I got to the point where everything came apart nicely, I'd invest in the parts. Thank you ifixit.com for the comprehensive instructions and parts for this procedure.
@armcomdes - well done! I wish i’d read your insight before ordering my replacement battery. My nano 2g battery is swollen, and only a sledgehammer could move any part that it now locks in place. So long, nano. I’ll try to return that sealed battery.
Your insight should be at the top of all related nano pages: swollen battery? iChuckit is your only real option
I'm another victim of the swollen battery. Impossible to slide it out.
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When removing the logic board, place the tip of the spudger into the hole where you removed the screw and gently push it out. The crevice will keep it in place and decrease the chance of you damaging your board.
My battery swelled and it was not possible to push out. Looks like I cracked the screen trying to free it up inside the case.
It is possible to remove a swollen battery although I think the correct term is definitely birth a swollen battery, as I just did 1 successfully and 1 unsuccessfully to the rest of the ipod, but still removed! If the battery is swollen, in most cases the screen may already be cracked or will get that way in order to get it out. Very poor design to retrieve Li-ion batteries for recycling. The battery that I was successful in getting out without damage was actually much more swollen than the other one but I learned from the 1st 1. I used a carpentry nail set so I did not put the tip inside the hole but on that piece of metal, which is quite strong. I put a piece of paper over the headphone connection to add some protection in case my nail set slid off while pushing. It took at least an hour or more, probably more but I had to take lots of breaks. Most of the time seemingly not budging it at all. My hand hurts now where I was gripping the ipod.
Cont.—-I would love to make my own pictorial about it because I had to push on it in such a way that I could still use my headlamp to see what I was doing and control where the nail set was pushing and not let it slip out of place. Before I started pushing I also used 1 of my blue plastic triangles to wedge some coconut oil down both the battery side and screen side. I really do think that helped a lot and may have even been a key factor so if anybody has a more appropriate lubricant for this type of electronics, I am open for suggestions. I wouldnt want to do it again but it was very beneficial to learning about how much force it can take and discovering some other tools that worked better in that situation. Also taking apart an ipod that didnt have a battery issue was so easy, I feel like a master now, lol.
my ipod is old and the screen is white (it was my moms). also can you sum this down im olny 10
It just means he wants you to use whatever tool you're using and push the rest of the iPod out via pushing through that hole, good luck!
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Completely remove the display and logic board from the metal casing.
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When reassembling, ensure that the battery is well seated. If the fit is too tight, the edge of the display will score the inside of the screen window.
When sliding back the logic board, watch out not to put too much stress on the side with the screen and the window, cause it may lead to annoying stripes on your window
reassembly : use a small dry paint brush to remove dust and crime from display screen to avoid spots .
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Place the desoldering wick on top of the existing solder ball.
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Place the soldering iron on top of wick above the existing solder ball.
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Hold the soldering iron in place until the solder melts into the wick.
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Repeat the same procedure on the remaining two connectors.
Is it necessary to solder the wires at the board? Is it possible to just clip them and then solder the wires together, or somehow reconnect the new wires with the old clipped wires from the board? Just curious. Seems like it could be easier since you wouldn't need to remove the old solder, but I don't know much about this type of thing. Thanks!
Lark Davis - 回复
that should work too, it is the less clean solution, but it takes away some of the potential to fail...
5mark -
Before beginning the unsoldering I cut all battery wires near the battery to prevent shortening battery or board. I then commenced to step 17, 18 and 19 with the battery already detached. Instead of pulling the wires out of their soldering holes with the battery I used a little plier to pull each of them out. Holding the soldering iron to the pad on the other side while pulling with the plier makes that quite easy.
I did the same thing too!
eharada -
Yep, me too, it's the smart thing to do. The author might add a sidenote to this step ...
I concur. Although I haven't worked on my nano yet, I have done fine-scale soldering like this before. I've never been comfortable working with braid. I prefer to heat the solder and suck it with a vacuum bulb. That won't get all of it, but it will get enough that you can pull the wires from the other side while applying heat and when they come out, the hole should be clear. (Use of a "helping hands" base that can hold the board in place while you use both hands to pull wires and position the soldering iron will help enormously!)
But I also agree that desoldering the wires from the board, although cleaner, is also far more difficult. Better to cut the wires near the battery and then solder the new batter to the cut leads. Use some small diameter heat shrink tubing (or electrical tape) to insulate the wires so it doesn't short when you put it all back together.
Not having braid, I tried my solder sucker. It still took a very long time to clear the holes.
I had success with a different technique. Leave the existing wires in place. Unsolder them from the old battery, and solder them onto the new battery. On my battery the wires were attached with a solder ball and no other mechanical connection (e.g. wrapping) so they came off easily. The wires are tiny and closely spaced, so take care not to short the battery.
If you go this route, I recommend unsoldering the outside wires first and then do the inside one. When installing the new battery, it should be easier to connect the middle wire first, and then do the outer wires. Again, take care not to short out the battery connections!
Although they are close, the danger is no worse than in soldering directly to the motherboard.
Just cut old battery wires, then pulled wire by wire applying minimal heat and then cleaned the holes using a really sharp teeth pick (rotating) while heating from opposite side. Logic board must be firmly held by "third arm" and minimal timing/heat used.
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Pull the battery wires through the logic board to free the battery. If the wires don't easily come free, make sure the wires are straight and all the solder has been removed.
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Slide the three wires of the replacement battery through the holes in the logic board. Going from the edge of the iPod, the order of wires is black at the far right (close to the metal frame), red in the middle, and white to the far left.
There is some double-sided tape affixing the battery to the central area of the assembly... the spudger can be used to slide down the edges first to lift, then to slide between the battery and tape.
I can't get this step clearly :(( Can someone help me?
Awww, I can't did it, can someone I don't know why but I can't open it like you did :(( Can someone <a href="http://wheelonroad.net/">check it</a> for me, pls?
Wow, finally I can find how to replace the battery. I'll try it, Thanks so much! http://apahouse.com/best-fuel-injector-c...
Kim Aimond - 回复
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Place the soldering iron onto the battery wire and metal connector for one to two seconds to heat them up.
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Add the solder wire and wait for the solder to melt onto the wire. Once a small bead has formed around the wire, lift the solder away first and then remove the soldering iron.
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Continue with the other two connections the same way, taking special care not to solder two of the connectors together.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
100等其他人完成本指南。
49条评论
Unfortunately, could not get adhesive off of battery wires without damaging one of the pads. Also, the solder would not flow to the braid and so am unable to clear solder off of holes-not that it matters at this point. Looks like a failure for now.
Firstly, I ruined my iPod because these instructions are inadequate and do not describe the actual difficulty level which is high. Secondly, fluxed desoldering braid of the appropriate size should be INCLUDED in the kit. It's not like one can go to Home Depot and get the stuff, so it should be included. Two inches of the braid out of a 10' roll(which costs on the average $3 retail) is all that would be required. This screwed me. Thirdly, desoldering the tiny battery terminals requires a fine tip iron. No mention of that.
I ruined the Nano but I'm not too upset as I have another one which will need a battery change sometime as well so I'll just save the trashed one to use for parts and use this battery when the time comes. However the iFixit people need to re-evaluate the kit AND the instructions and make some revisions. iFixit assumes that everyone was born with microsoldering skills and has all the appropriate equipment and that is just not true.
All the way on top of the article it says : very difficult.
Just not everybody has the skills or equipment to finish a job like this with good result.
No need to include wick in a kit : if you do electronics repairs, that should be on your bench, always.
Ya know. Common sense sure is passed by when you want someone to hold your hand when you go pee.
Consider what was replied. "Very Difficult". Think of that as
"Expert Level", so some obvious "expert level" knowledge of using these types of tools, you know, common sense, is an obvious requirement. You messed up. Don't blame someone trying to help. That's childish.
I got all the way to the end without any issues. I had to use a pin/needle to clear the holes for the wire a little, but otherwise it went smoothly. But at the very end, when I went to snap the headphone jack ribbon back in, it was somehow pinched and came right off. Since I was pretty careful at the beginning it had to have been when I was pushing everything back together. Junk now. But close!
easy to follow to replace batteries. Thanks,
As good as these instructions are, there is not nearly enough guidance as to how to remove the battery itself between steps 18 and 19. There is sticky tape there holding it in. a procedure needs to be added how to get it out. at this time i am not sure if i damaged anything trying to figure it out myself.
About [step 21] , Don't hold the soldering iron like this or you'll get 3rd degree burns :D
I don't know why but I can't open it like you did :(( Can someone <a href="http://wheelonroad.net/">check it</a> ?
Goddd, It's to difficult and I can't do it even if I have followed the instruction!
Aww, this is really difficult. No matter how hard I try, I still can't do it!
Incredible guide - Thank you. Hardest job so far. The hole cleaning and solving took me 30 min - in the end I used a pin to widen the holes for the battery.
Furry. MooFurry! Hahaha. Love that screen-name.
Definitely not an easy repair, but the instructions are good. Had a problem with desoldering the wires and directions weren't clear about removing the battery. It was hard to remove, but just took a little tugging to break the glue under it. Lost 2 screws during reassembly. Love this sight.
It looks simple, but you must have hands skilled otherwise the electronic components will die. Thanks for the detailed and practical guidance.
The instructions were fine, but I destroyed the iPod anyway. It is really difficult like it says, so don’t even try it if you have little experience like me. I could not get the wires from the old battery out without removing the metal rings, and after that, I just gave up.
You learned a lot by making the attempt. Do not be discouraged. Next time you will be wiser and do better. There is no substitute for hands-on experience!
Hi,
Can you please tell me if all the screws are of the size #00, or are there some #000?
I have the impression that the screw on the bottom holding the earphones-jack has a different size than the other ones. True? If yes, which ones are #00 and which ones are #000? I have a lot of difficulties to get the screw on the bottom, in the corner (not holding the earphones-jack). Any ideas to help?
thanks
After much struggle I was able to clean the battery holes, insert the new batteries, and put the iPod back together. It was harder than I thought it would be. The iPod now works and plays music! Unfortunately, a new problem is that the display is now completely blank. When I push the middle button on the iPod, the display switches from black to all white for 10 seconds, and then back to black. I plan to disassemble again and see if perhaps I managed to loosen the display ribbon cable.
After taking my iPod apart a few times trying to cure the white screen, I discovered that I had torn the display ribbon cable. The only way to get a new ribbon cable is to get a new screen. I happened to have a replacement screen so I installed it and now it works fine.
Whew, success but it was a battle. I didn’t order a battery until I had removed dead one without a show-stopping incident, Ifixit couldn’t ship me a battery so I went to ebay (Orderselect, Orem, Utah.) The battery was thicker by 0.75mm so I had to press the whole assembly together using a bench vice, not pretty. I also used a thin plastic sheet to cover logic board as I pressed things back together as something was hanging up inside. I removed the plastic sheet before the screen went in; to my amazement, it booted up.
jandrews33 - 回复
Okay i amd so confused. can anyone help me do it????
My battery is swollen and won’t let me push out the logic board easily. The seat where the screw hole is mentioned to push the board through is completely gone. I put too much pressure and the seat for the screw is history. Anyone had this issue with swollen battery impeding the board from being pushed through?
This is a difficult repair. Ref jandrews33 comment on 1 May above, there is a lip of plastic running across the device just below the window (maybe a part of the screen moulding?). It protrudes into the centre of the case and can catch on components as you slide in the logic board and screen assembly. This is problematic if the replacement battery is even slightly thicker than the one you remove. Mine was. Like jandrews33 recommend using a very thin sheet of plastic to assist inserting the board and screen without anything catching. The sheet needs to be tough so you can pull it out again after assembly. It will also help the black foam rubber screen surround slide into the case. The surround can be a bit sticky otherwise. The orange plastic circuit sheet below the display caught on that lip and ripped so device is scrap now.
Additionally, be careful cleaning out the battery holes using a pin. It’s easy to tear the conductor so you have nothing to solder to. I was able recover from the one I messed up by soldering to the other side of the board which was still intact. It looked OK but I don’t know if it worked as I wrecked the device on reassembly as above
Okay, I have had plenty of experience with this kind of stuff. Used to be an Apple tech. I did not have a problem replacing the battery, but after I did so and tried to charge the battery it hot very very hot. Now it won’t boot at all. No screen etc. Is there a possibility that the battery is defective or was charged with a reverse voltage to begin with? Yes the battery is installed correctly. Any hints are appreciated.
Grumpy4650
NOT a good method ! Do NOT do any soldering on the MB.
Instead, cut the wires off the old battery as close as you can to the battery. Trim a little bit of insulation off the wires. Solder those wires to the new ones. (This also makes it easy to get the colors right.) If you don’t have heat shrink tubing or such, peel off some yellow cellophane tape off the old battery and wrap each splice.
Be VERY careful no to short any leads while doing this. Keep each lead on the new battery covered until you’re ready to splice, solder and re-cover.
This brings the difficulty down a level.
It is much easier to just unsolder the wires from the battery control board and then solder them onto the new batteries control board instead of cutting the wires and trying to cover the splice.
Cool guide! So helpful! More so than the lots quality unexplained YouTube stuff. Did this today, new battery appears to be working but can't test is as I can't get the case back on. Replacing the battery might have increased the thickness, will try cleaning the grime out with IPA.
Any tips?
For anyone else doing this, I found it easier to unsolder the wires from the battery control board than to unsolder them from the iPod board.
Hardest repair I’ve ever done. Not for a beginner or novice.
I didn’t remove the old battery’s wires from the board as it was too difficult. Instead I cut them and soldered the new battery wires to them instead.
thanks for the guide it was very helpful!
Lol had the same thought and commented on if that would be possible before even finding your comment- gonna do that to mine now!
I am having trouble getting it to slide out of the shell
Alex White - 回复
Thanks for the guide, I successfully replaced the battery of my iPod Nano 2! A couple of points:
- don't even think of starting the project without a #000 Philips screwdriver, no a #00 one won't work and will only strip your tiny tiny screws.
- I concur with people suggesting that it's much easier to de-solder and re-solder the leads from the battery terminal, instead of the very hairy process of doing it from the iPod circuit board. You will need to cut open a bit of the plastic wrapping of the battery to expose the terminals (and needed to remove some gunk covering the terminals of the original battery), but it's much easier than messing with the iPod circuit board.
Good Luck! :)
I did this easy $@$* in about 10 mins and didn't order $@$* I took my old broke drone and stole its 3.7 v battery pack and stuck in there now my $@$* is kicking tunes better than before . Dam I love the 90's jam , very difficult lmao this easy easy . But if u don't have e good hand and eye coordination ur screwed if ur over 50 I would recommend u got a younger better eye site and knowledge person to do the repairs . Someti.es u just have to leave it to the pros .
"Someti.es u just have to leave it to the pros."
There we have it, folks, from a "pro" — meaning a "younger better eye site and knowledge person" with the vast skills and experience that come with youth, so rare in anyone older than 50 — so pay attention! And, if flawless grammar, perfect spelling and vivid descriptions of his novel technical triumphs don't convince you he's a master, consider this single fact, which he himself reports here: Whereas the supposed experts at ifixit.com estimate a competent hobbyist will need at least 45 minutes and as long as two hours to replace this iPod's battery, warning it's "very difficult," Nos Tank's response is inspiring! "very difficult lmao this easy easy ..." he snorts. "I did this easy $@$* in about 10 mins"! And that was using a battery he "stole from his old broke drone ... and stuck in there"! He also discovered it improved the iPod's overall performance beyond its previous best! Please Nos Tank, if you can, teach us!
I found a better and easier way to remove the battery, that doesn't do damage anywhere on the motherboard, it is very thin, so a bit too much heat and the pads will lift off! What i recommend is the following: peel the capton tape from the battery cell back, underneath the tape is a small board, lift it up, and cut the 2 tabs that go from the cell to that small board, you can now lift out the cell, and if you rotate the small board where that cell was attached 2, unsolder the wires et voila, you can solder one straight in without touching the motherboard!
I read these comments after my repair instead of before.....Very difficult repair. The instructions are fine. On mine, I was able to get it apart and replace the battery, following the instructions. I broke it sliding the circuit board and new battery back into the case. Based on some of the other comments, my guess is my new battery is a couple of RCH's(old guy term, look it up) thicker than the old one and thus my problems. Like anything in life, unlike what Allen Iverson would say.... you have to practice. If you have an iPod with sentimental value that you don't want to end up destroying I suggest you find some Ipod's that you don't care about and practice until you successfully repair at least one before you start on the one that you really care about.
What a great instruction set! Thanks a million for making it available even in 2024 😉
It helped me repairing my ipod nano. I spent almost 3 hours (incl. preparing & cleaning up) and for sure more than an hour getting the solder work done. But it was a great experience.
The soldering points are small as hell (at least for a cheap amazon soldering station) and the screws are #000 and not #00.
As soon as I got the right tools (screwdrivers) I was able to make it. Thank you very much!
SUCCESS ! ! ! I had a lot of fun doing this project, thank you to all of the people's comments and tips. Shout out to iRobot for a splendid guide. This was a first time repair project for me, with minimal soldering skills. Truth be told, I bought a soldering station just for this project. 2/1/2025
I did it but with a problem, the sound is not sounding. It hard to described but music coming of it sounds tiny and heavily compressed. I’m unsure if it’s the ribbon cable as music is still coming out of it and the click wheel works great same with battery and charging/transferring data. Is this just a software issue ur did I brake the nano?
I almost had it :-( Up to the last wire on the battery. Screen turned on and then one of the wires came loose before I could solder it and there was a short. Didn't recover. There was smoke from one of the components. Oh well, it was fun to try and I'll be better next time for the experience. This was pretty difficult.
