简介
Follow this guide to replace the front camera assembly on your iPad Pro 11" 3rd gen.
The front camera assembly includes front camera, Face ID camera, and infrared dot projector. This component is paired to your iPad Pro's logic board and must be replaced with it, or you'll lose Face ID capability. Follow this guide to replace the logic board in your iPad Pro.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Some photos in this guide show the screen disconnected and fully removed. This isn't necessary for the procedure, so this guide skips those steps. If you wish to remove the screen, follow this guide.
Some photos show the battery connector blocked with two card strips. While this is an optional method, it's more reliable to fully discharge the battery. Ignore this visual discrepancy as you work through the guide.
你所需要的
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Camera module, ambient light sensors, proximity senor, and front microphone
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Display cables
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Screen magnets
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LCD edges
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Pull the blue handle backward to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
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Position the suction cups near the middle of the right edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the right edge of the iPad.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next step.
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Apply a suction handle to the right edge of the screen, about 5 cm from the bottom edge.
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Pull up on the suction handle with firm, constant pressure to create a gap just small enough to insert an opening pick.
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Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
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Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
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Slide the pick along the right edge to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm near the top left and right edges or you'll damage the ambient light sensors.
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 1 mm near the middle of the top edge or you'll damage the camera module, proximity sensor, and front microphone.
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Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
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Slide the pick along the top right edge, stopping when you reach the right ambient light sensor.
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Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Insert a new opening pick in the bottom right corner below the existing pick.
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Slide the pick around the bottom right corner to separate the adhesive.
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The display cables are located within small indents of the frame and require an opening pick to be inserted at a 45° angle.
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There are flat sections of the frame which require an opening pick to be inserted horizontally.
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Insert an opening pick at a 45˚ angle just above the bottom left corner.
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Carefully slide the pick along the left edge, stopping when you reach the flat section of the frame.
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Separate the remaining adhesive, making sure to follow the instructions exactly as written.
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Slide the pick at a 45˚ downward angle and don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.
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Slide the pick horizontally and don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.
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Use an opening pick to remove any remaining adhesive keeping the screen stuck to the frame.
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Grab the top right and bottom left corners of the screen.
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Slowly slide the screen towards the bottom right corner to separate it from the frame.
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Shift the screen towards the bottom right corner of the frame until the ambient light sensor ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the ambient light sensor cable bracket to the logic board:
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One 1.3 mm screw
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One 2.0 mm screw
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Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the ambient light sensor cable by lifting straight up on the press connectors.
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Grip the right edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.
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Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the lower cable shield to the logic board:
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Two 2.0 mm screws
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Three 1.3 mm screws
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Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the lower cable shield.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.2 mm screws securing the top cable shield.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the top cable shield for one minute to soften the adhesive securing it to the logic board.
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Insert an opening pick under the top cable shield and gently pry up to separate the adhesive.
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Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the top cable shield.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the IR dot projector cable.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and Face ID camera.
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Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the two 2.1 mm screws securing the front camera assembly to the frame.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and loosen the front camera assembly.
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Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the front camera assembly.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Pro 11" 3rd Gen Answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Pro 11" 3rd Gen Answers community for help.
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