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简介

使用本指南修复iPad Mini 2屏幕。 本指南将向您展示如何在iPad Mini 2 Wi-Fi上更换前面板,包括数字面板,主按钮和显示屏。

  1. 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。 把iOpener放在微波炉中间 。
    • 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。

    • 把iOpener放在微波炉中间 。

    • 对于旋转式微波炉:确保盘子可以自由旋转。如果你的iOpener卡住了,它可能会过热并燃烧

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - 回复

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 回复

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 回复

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 回复

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - 回复

    Video seems to have been removed from YouTube.

    Rex Burrus -

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 回复

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 回复

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - 回复

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

    Regards,

    Cedric

    Cedric VINCENT - 回复

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - 回复

    Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.

    B. A. Computer Services - 回复

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - 回复

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - 回复

    The “Galaxy S8 Replacement Battery” that you are selling with the kit is the wrong battery, the one that you are selling is a 3000mAh (which is the wrong amperage) as the OEM Samsung Galaxy S8 battery is “Model #: EB-BG892ABA / 4000mAh / Normal Voltage: 3.85V / Charge Voltage: 4.4V / A/S: 1588-3366 4000mAh 15.0Wh

    stevengenat - 回复

  2. 加热iOpener三十秒
    • 加热iOpener三十秒

    • 贯穿整个维修过程,如果iOpener 冷却了,在微波炉中每次重新加热额外的三十秒。

    • 注意在维修过程中不要过度加热iOpener,过热可能会导致iOpener爆炸。

    • 如果出现膨胀千万不要碰iOpener。

    • 如果iOpener中间部分依然烫的没法碰,请等待冷却后再加热,一个加热好的iOpener 应该可以保持热度十分钟

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - 回复

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 回复

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 回复

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - 回复

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - 回复

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - 回复

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - 回复

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - 回复

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - 回复

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 回复

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 回复

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 回复

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 回复

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - 回复

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - 回复

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - 回复

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - 回复

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - 回复

  3. 把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来,捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个避免碰到中心热的部分。
    • 把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来,捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个避免碰到中心热的部分。

    • iOpener会非常烫,所以拿着它的时候千万要小心。必要的时候可以使用烤箱手套。

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - 回复

    Can you use an oven instead?

    Rafael -

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - 回复

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 回复

  4. 如果你的屏幕已经损坏,那么请效益以防止其进一步损坏或者因触摸而导致身体受伤。 在iPad显示屏上重叠贴上透明胶带直到iPad的整块显示屏都被覆盖。 最好尽你的最大努力来完成指南。但是,一旦玻璃已经损坏,它就会随着您的使用而继续损坏,所以你可能需要使用金属撬具来讲玻璃取出。
    • 如果你的屏幕已经损坏,那么请效益以防止其进一步损坏或者因触摸而导致身体受伤。

    • 在iPad显示屏上重叠贴上透明胶带直到iPad的整块显示屏都被覆盖。

    • 最好尽你的最大努力来完成指南。但是,一旦玻璃已经损坏,它就会随着您的使用而继续损坏,所以你可能需要使用金属撬具来讲玻璃取出。

    • 请佩戴护目镜来保护您的眼睛并且小心以防损坏LCD屏幕。

  5. 抓住iOpener的标签,把它放在iPad的home 键左侧
    • 抓住iOpener的标签,把它放在iPad的home 键左侧

    • 放置五分钟来让它使玻璃下的粘合剂软化

    Can you explain how using the iOpener ? That's can be great !

    Matthieu Nasri - 回复

    The iOpener used is essentially a bag of gel, which you put in the microwave for 30 seconds. You lay this against the screen edges to transfer heat and loosen up the glue.

    You could also use a hot-air blower with a re-work station but that's up to you. Mine worked well up to 150°C

    Sam Attwood -

    what about heating a cloth bag filled with rice in the microwave? Would that work?

    SkipR - 回复

    That might work! Rice is less likely to get, and stay, hot enough. But it can't hurt to try! Just be sure you're being patient and letting it really warm up before you pry. People have had luck double bagging a washcloth dipped in very hot water, too.

    Sam Goldheart -

  6. 小心地将吸盘放在已经加热的一侧。 确保吸盘已经在屏幕上吸紧 一边用一只手握住iPad,一边将吸盘向上轻轻拉以此将前面板玻璃与后面板轻轻地分开。
    • 小心地将吸盘放在已经加热的一侧。

    • 确保吸盘已经在屏幕上吸紧

    • 一边用一只手握住iPad,一边将吸盘向上轻轻拉以此将前面板玻璃与后面板轻轻地分开。

    • 注意,只将玻璃抬起足够放入拆屏工具的空间(抬起过多将会是你置身于使玻璃破碎的险境中)。

    I'm having trouble getting the suction cup to stay connected to the screen to pull it. It just isn't creating a seal no matter how flat I make it. I thought maybe the crack was causing it, so I tried tape. I originally didn't put tape on it because it wasn't losing glass. The tape made it worse of creating a seal. Any advice?

    William - 回复

    After following instructions to cover cracked glass with packing tape, the suction cup won’t adhere at all. Not even a little bit. Any suggestions?

    Brian Tate - 回复

    I had that exact problem when I fixed an Iphone 8. What I did was that I put some ducktape where the suction cup would be placed. That worked for me. That’s of course is if you where doing to replace the glass anyway.

    Pontus Sennerstam -

    I had a screen on an iPad 4 that was so shattered that I literally had to spend 2.5 hours picking every single piece of glass out with tweezers after pulling the few larger pieces off with tape on them. Sometimes you need a lot of patience to be successful. The final cleaning out of the sticky tape along the sides is also very important once the glass is removed. Or the new screen will stick out an/or not go in neatly.

    Michael Burger - 回复

  7. 在使用吸盘抬起玻璃时,沿着iPad玻璃与机体之间的缝隙滑动拆屏工具。 不要将工具插入得比屏幕黑色边框更深。插入太深可能会导致LCD屏幕的损坏。 将吸盘从密封状态中释放并从显示组件上取下吸盘。
    • 在使用吸盘抬起玻璃时,沿着iPad玻璃与机体之间的缝隙滑动拆屏工具。

    • 不要将工具插入得比屏幕黑色边框更深。插入太深可能会导致LCD屏幕的损坏。

    • 将吸盘从密封状态中释放并从显示组件上取下吸盘。

    Could I use some guitar picks? If so, what gauge (thickness) of a picks should I get?

    SkipR - 回复

    I'm not sure what the correct balance of thickness to strength you'd need, maybe try a couple different types. The idea is to be thin and fit into the smallest gap, but if it gets bogged down in adhesive, it needs to be strong enough to push through. Be sure to use heat and be patient!

    Sam Goldheart -

  8. 重新加热并在此运用iOpener
    • 重新加热并在此运用iOpener

    • 注意不要在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。总是在重新加热之前等待至少十分钟。

    • 把它放在iPad左边框上几分钟以重新加热iPad的左边框。

    Well if you want to save some time and your screen is shattered just pry up one corner either left or right side at the top and tear the whole screen off going down towards the home button but do not completely remove the screen there is a wire connecting the digitizer to the board inside but tearing off the screen will skip you down to step 29 :-) i seen this in a video and saved me about an hour after the fact because my screen was cracking as i was inserting the blue picks so i ripped the whole screen off and used some adhesive remover to get off all the extra goo leftover

    Chris Grayden - 回复

  9. 沿着第一个撬片的开的口处插入另外一个翘片同时向下滑动到iPad的角落处,让撬片分离粘合剂。 在接下来的步骤中,如果您在玻璃面板下滑动时遇到恨大的阻力,请停下来,重新加热难以开启部分的面板,再重新滑动撬片来分离粘合剂。 暴力撬开面板会导致玻璃破裂。 在接下来的步骤中,如果您在玻璃面板下滑动时遇到恨大的阻力,请停下来,重新加热难以开启部分的面板,再重新滑动撬片来分离粘合剂。 暴力撬开面板会导致玻璃破裂。
    • 沿着第一个撬片的开的口处插入另外一个翘片同时向下滑动到iPad的角落处,让撬片分离粘合剂。

    • 在接下来的步骤中,如果您在玻璃面板下滑动时遇到恨大的阻力,请停下来,重新加热难以开启部分的面板,再重新滑动撬片来分离粘合剂。 暴力撬开面板会导致玻璃破裂。

    I found that all the following step were much easier for me using a heat gun while keeping the pull on the screen with the suction cup. Basically heat up a section, put the suction cup on, keep pulling the screen upwards on that side, while using the heat gun to continuously heat along the side. It came nicely off, one or two inches at a time. Once I had a whole side up, I just put some of the picks in to keep it up and continued along the side, heating, pulling, heating pulling. This obviously only works if the screen is not totally shattered. Mine only had two cracks.

    Michael Burger - 回复

  10. 继续沿着下方继续滑动来将粘合剂分离。 如果撬片卡住了,请沿着iPad的侧面滚动撬片,然后再继续进行分离工作。 如果撬片卡住了,请沿着iPad的侧面滚动撬片,然后再继续进行分离工作。
    • 继续沿着下方继续滑动来将粘合剂分离。

    • 如果撬片卡住了,请沿着iPad的侧面滚动撬片,然后再继续进行分离工作。

  11. 将第一个插入iPad的撬片向上滑动到iPad的左上角 撬片可能会出现图片上的情况,请不要慌张。 只需将撬片拉出一点点来继续进行维修工作。 但要避免这种情况,因为粘合剂可能会粘附在LCD显示屏上变得难以清理。 撬片可能会出现图片上的情况,请不要慌张。 只需将撬片拉出一点点来继续进行维修工作。 但要避免这种情况,因为粘合剂可能会粘附在LCD显示屏上变得难以清理。
    • 将第一个插入iPad的撬片向上滑动到iPad的左上角

    • 撬片可能会出现图片上的情况,请不要慌张。 只需将撬片拉出一点点来继续进行维修工作。 但要避免这种情况,因为粘合剂可能会粘附在LCD显示屏上变得难以清理。

  12. 重新加热iOpener 并将其放置在iPad顶部边缘位置,前置摄像头之上。
    • 重新加热iOpener 并将其放置在iPad顶部边缘位置,前置摄像头之上。

    • 小心,请勿在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。 在重新加热iOpener之前请至少等待10分钟。

    • 如果您有可以弯折的iOpener,您可以弯折其使其同时加热左上角边缘位置。

  13. 在左上角滑动撬片,来分离粘合剂。 在左上角滑动撬片,来分离粘合剂。 在左上角滑动撬片,来分离粘合剂。
    • 在左上角滑动撬片,来分离粘合剂。

  14. 滑动撬片直到快接近前置摄像头位置时停下 第三张图片展示了iPad前置摄像头的位置。 避免使用撬片直接滑过前置摄像头,这样做可能会污损到摄像头。 接下来的步骤将会详细说明如何避免损伤前置摄像头。
    • 滑动撬片直到快接近前置摄像头位置时停下

    • 第三张图片展示了iPad前置摄像头的位置。

    • 避免使用撬片直接滑过前置摄像头,这样做可能会污损到摄像头。 接下来的步骤将会详细说明如何避免损伤前置摄像头。

  15. 轻轻拉出些许撬片,并沿着前置摄像头顶部位置慢慢的滑动。 轻轻拉出些许撬片,并沿着前置摄像头顶部位置慢慢的滑动。 轻轻拉出些许撬片,并沿着前置摄像头顶部位置慢慢的滑动。
    • 轻轻拉出些许撬片,并沿着前置摄像头顶部位置慢慢的滑动。

  16. 将刚才那片撬片稍微滑过前置摄像头然后放在原位不动。 拿起另外一个撬片,插入摄像头的左侧,重新滑过刚才撬片滑过的路径,来完全分离残留的粘合剂。 将第二块撬片就放在转角那里,防止粘合剂冷却后重新粘和上。
    • 将刚才那片撬片稍微滑过前置摄像头然后放在原位不动。

    • 拿起另外一个撬片,插入摄像头的左侧,重新滑过刚才撬片滑过的路径,来完全分离残留的粘合剂。

    • 将第二块撬片就放在转角那里,防止粘合剂冷却后重新粘和上。

  17. 将第一块撬片稍微深入iPad之中,从摄像头处滑动到右上角。 将第一块撬片稍微深入iPad之中,从摄像头处滑动到右上角。 将第一块撬片稍微深入iPad之中,从摄像头处滑动到右上角。
    • 将第一块撬片稍微深入iPad之中,从摄像头处滑动到右上角。

    If you have the LTE there is a cable on the right upper side! There’s no mention of this in this guide even though it’s for the LTE. I found out after the fact when I saw I cut the cable with the pick.

    Will Lyon - 回复

  18. 将撬片放在原位,以防粘合剂再次粘连。
    • 将撬片放在原位,以防粘合剂再次粘连。

    • 重新加热iOpener将其放在有锁定和音量按钮一侧。

  19. Android 维修工具包

    一个新的屏幕或电池就在一个套件之内。

    现在开始购物

    Android 维修工具包

    一个新的屏幕或电池就在一个套件之内。

    现在开始购物
  20. 滑动右上角的撬片,来完全分离右上角的玻璃。 将这个撬片就放在这,防止粘合剂重新粘连。 重新拿一个撬片来进行下一步。
    • 滑动右上角的撬片,来完全分离右上角的玻璃。

    • 将这个撬片就放在这,防止粘合剂重新粘连。 重新拿一个撬片来进行下一步。

  21. 在右侧插入一个新的撬片来分离右上角和中间的粘合剂。 在右侧插入一个新的撬片来分离右上角和中间的粘合剂。 在右侧插入一个新的撬片来分离右上角和中间的粘合剂。
    • 在右侧插入一个新的撬片来分离右上角和中间的粘合剂。

    This is not an LTE ipad mini 3, it is a wifi ipad mini 3

    lordofmordor - 回复

  22. 一直将撬片滑到iPad的右下角处,来分离粘合剂。 一直将撬片滑到iPad的右下角处,来分离粘合剂。 一直将撬片滑到iPad的右下角处,来分离粘合剂。
    • 一直将撬片滑到iPad的右下角处,来分离粘合剂。

  23. 就把撬片放在停下的位置,然后重新加热iOpener。
    • 就把撬片放在停下的位置,然后重新加热iOpener。

    • 切记,切勿过度加热iOpener,每次加热不能超过10分钟。

    • 将加热过的iOpener放置在Home键一端,放置几分钟来软化下面的粘合剂。

    For those who are replacing a severely shattered front panel, be aware that there are two smart cover magnets attached to the interior side of the front panel that you will need later. Keep an eye out for them (see steps 49 and 50 below for pictures of what these tiny magnets look like) so that you don't have to go digging through the debris later.

    Jeff G - 回复

  24. 滑动左下边的撬片来分边角处的离粘合剂。 滑动到左下角时停止滑动。 然后放置在此。 在下面板下面有很多东西需要规避,请仔细研究第三张图像:
    • 滑动左下边的撬片来分边角处的离粘合剂。

    • 滑动到左下角时停止滑动。 然后放置在此。

    • 在下面板下面有很多东西需要规避,请仔细研究第三张图像:

    • 天线

    • Home键

    • 排线

    • 接下来的步骤将会指导您如何避免伤害这些部件。 只加热和撬动指南所指示的部位。

  25. 将上一步的原撬片放置在原位,以防粘合剂重新粘合。 拿一片新的撬片,轻轻的从左天线处滑动到home键前。 只能从iPad外边缘向内滑动 请勿按照相反方向滑动 这样可能会损坏天线。
    • 将上一步的原撬片放置在原位,以防粘合剂重新粘合。

    • 拿一片新的撬片,轻轻的从左天线处滑动到home键前。

    • 只能从iPad外边缘向内滑动 请勿按照相反方向滑动 这样可能会损坏天线。

    • 如果您需要再次滑动来清理粘合剂,请取出撬片然后从外边缘重新插入再向内滑动。

    • 将撬片放置不动。

  26. 拿一片新的撬片来从刚才那片撬片右边Home键下方继续滑动。 在距离右侧边缘约一英寸的位置前停下,以避免切割到排线。 将撬片深入,再往回滑动至Home键处。
    • 拿一片新的撬片来从刚才那片撬片右边Home键下方继续滑动。

    • 在距离右侧边缘约一英寸的位置前停下,以避免切割到排线。

    • 将撬片深入,再往回滑动至Home键处。

    • 再次,请确保只有当撬片完全插入iPad时,才能向iPad的中心滑动; 否则可能会损坏玻璃面板下方的天线。

    Do NOT insert the pick much deeper to the right of the home button, you can easily damage the fingerprint ID chip.

    kimhoover - 回复

    There is no fingerprint id chip in an iPad mini 2 (retina)

    blakebest -

  27. 将重新加热过后的iOpener放置在iPad顶部。
    • 将重新加热过后的iOpener放置在iPad顶部。

  28. 小心操作这一步,花点时间保证粘合剂是热和软的,同时确保您的撬片已经分离开了该分离的粘合剂。 不要怕返工和重新加热。 在iPadHome键相对的顶部您应该在每个角落里插了撬片。 扭动撬片,轻轻地提起玻璃面板,分离最后残留的粘合剂。
    • 小心操作这一步,花点时间保证粘合剂是热和软的,同时确保您的撬片已经分离开了该分离的粘合剂。 不要怕返工和重新加热。

    • 在iPadHome键相对的顶部您应该在每个角落里插了撬片。 扭动撬片,轻轻地提起玻璃面板,分离最后残留的粘合剂。

    • 如果在打开过程中遇到很大的阻力,请立即停止扭动撬片。 将撬片放置原位,重新加热iOpener,将其放置在难以开启的位置,然后插入撬片来重新分离一遍粘合剂。

  29. 慢慢地轻轻地提起玻璃面板,以便沿着下边缘进一步分离粘合剂。 慢慢地轻轻地提起玻璃面板,以便沿着下边缘进一步分离粘合剂。
    • 慢慢地轻轻地提起玻璃面板,以便沿着下边缘进一步分离粘合剂。

  30. 一旦所有的粘合剂被分离了,玻璃面板就可以像翻书一样将其放置在您的工作台上。 一旦所有的粘合剂被分离了,玻璃面板就可以像翻书一样将其放置在您的工作台上。
    • 一旦所有的粘合剂被分离了,玻璃面板就可以像翻书一样将其放置在您的工作台上。

    This picture and several others that follow are not for the "LTE" model.

    Tim Osborn - 回复

    Some of the steps, including the comments, are replicated between guides.  Be aware! This can render them somewhat generic, and possibly non-optimal.  For instance, this step is replicated between at least the mini 2 LTE, mini 2 Wi-Fi, mini 3 LTE, & mini 3 Wi-Fi.

    ciradrak -

    Remember to remove the old black adhesive from the digitizer and iPad frame. Some can be pulled out and some needs a sharp blade to remove. This will give you room to apply your new adhesive strips when reassembling.

    Yousef Ghalib - 回复

  31. 前置摄像头的保护壳可能会粘在前面板上; 将保护壳从面板上取下,并放回相机上以保护相机模组。 从保护壳一角晃动其,让其从前面板上的粘合剂上分离下来。 将前置摄像机外壳放回后壳中的凹槽。
    • 前置摄像头的保护壳可能会粘在前面板上; 将保护壳从面板上取下,并放回相机上以保护相机模组。

    • 从保护壳一角晃动其,让其从前面板上的粘合剂上分离下来。

    • 将前置摄像机外壳放回后壳中的凹槽。

  32. 移除固定LCD面板的Phillips #00 螺丝 3颗3.3 mm 螺丝
    • 移除固定LCD面板的Phillips #00 螺丝

    • 3颗3.3 mm 螺丝

    • 4颗4.5 mm 螺丝

    • 如果有胶带覆盖在螺丝上,那就用镊子将其剥下。

    This is VERY IMPORTANT please be sure to put the screws EXACTLY how they were when you removed them otherwise your screen will not rotate when you put the new digitizer on. i closed my ipad thinking everything was ok but now the screen does not automatically rotate, but lucky i jailbroke my ipad first and have an activator gesture to rotate for me :-)

    Chris Grayden - 回复

    stripped the screws at the home button side of the ipad and the precision screw extractor set is too big to work. help?! paramedic064@gmail.com

    paramedic064 - 回复

    We have some great posts on Answers about getting stripped screws out, you can refer to What are your tips/tricks for removing or extracting stripped screws? for advice, or ask a new one and see if someone can come up with new ideas. We also have a stripped screw removal guide for you to check out. Good luck!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found that Phillips #000 work better then the Phillips #00 for this entire product. I'll be recommending a change to the fix kit as well.

    William - 回复

    This is a tip:

    I have a terrible time cleaning the lcd because no matter how hard I try not to touch it, I always get smudges! So take my advice…remove the front film from the new digitizer and place it over the lcd. It is bigger so you can cut it down or just lift it to get to the screws. Now no fingerprints and also less chance for scratches. The front side is easy to clean once it’s installed so need to have that covered while working-the insides are what needs protecting.

    mamashannon4u - 回复

  33. 切勿现在尝试将LCD面板完全分离开来,它仍与iPad通过位于Home键附近的几条线缆相连。 只可以从前置摄像头处提起。 在LCD面板与LCD屏蔽版之间插入撬棒扁平的一端,轻轻地将其撬起。
    • 切勿现在尝试将LCD面板完全分离开来,它仍与iPad通过位于Home键附近的几条线缆相连。 只可以从前置摄像头处提起。

    • 在LCD面板与LCD屏蔽版之间插入撬棒扁平的一端,轻轻地将其撬起。

    Be very careful not to get the spudger under the shield plate, but between the LCD and the shield. Also, not that on the LTE models, the antennas are at this end and there is a bit of adhesive holding this end of the LCD down.

    Tim Osborn - 回复

    This bit of adhesive is located beneath the foam, and runs the entire length of the antennas. You must lift the foam and detach the tape before you're able to get the top to come out the chassis

    James - 回复

    This is not present in this tutorial and is very frustrating. I fix it must look into this

    James - 回复

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - 回复

    Thanks for the fishing line suggestion. It certainly worked for me (used 6lb test line). With using the fishing line, one is a lot less likely to break the LCD compared to using a spudger.

    rgstout -

    awesome tip thanks

    Pa Du -

    The tutorial procedure should be edited once and for all to instruct to detach the adhesive strip from the top of the LCD prior to attempting to lift it. Failure to do so will invariably result in a broken LCD!!!

    The simplest way to do that is to first gently remove the foam strip running around the top of the LCD with a pair of tweezers. Only then will the shiny metallic adhesive tape be visible and accessible.

    lorenzocangiano - 回复

    I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.

    Abbot - 回复

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy - 回复

    Yeah, I broke my LCD because the guide did not specify the glue on the top portion if you have an LTE model. I didn’t even try hard at all. I tried to lift it with the plastic spudger and saw that it did not move. Came to check the comments and when I looked back the top corner was already broken.

    Thanks iFixit! Awesome guide

    Jorge Tamez - 回复

  34. 液晶显示屏由温和的粘合剂固定,在将LCD面板从屏蔽板上翻转之前,请分离粘合剂。 在LCD和LCD蔽板之间插入撬棒,并将其滑到iPad的远端。 在LCD和LCD蔽板之间插入撬棒,并将其滑到iPad的远端。
    • 液晶显示屏由温和的粘合剂固定,在将LCD面板从屏蔽板上翻转之前,请分离粘合剂。

    • 在LCD和LCD蔽板之间插入撬棒,并将其滑到iPad的远端。

    Hi. I noticed that the tutorial is for an LTE iPad mini 2. However, these pictures do not show and LTE device. I'm having issues removing the LCD from the iPad due to the antenna. Any suggestions? (How to remove antenna?)

    Kevin Rodriguez - 回复

    This step needs extra detail on how the LCD adhesive should be loosened. I've now got stress marks on the LCD which show up when solid backgrounds are displayed on screen as the LCD flexed when trying to pry it out.

    Cool_Breeze - 回复

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - 回复

    Great tip about the fishing wire because you will most certainly crack the LCD just yanking it out. Thank you and hit em with the hein

    Curtis Jordan Lenox - 回复

    I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.

    Abbot - 回复

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy - 回复

  35. 两个宽胶带将LCD与扬声器相连。 一只手抓住LCD,另一只手抓住iPad下面的主体。
    • 两个宽胶带将LCD与扬声器相连。

    • 一只手抓住LCD,另一只手抓住iPad下面的主体。

    • 切勿尝试从iPad上完全取出LCD。

    • 轻轻地将LCD从扬声器上的胶带中拉出来,小心不要拉动排线。

    this was a pain to remove but the two pieces of tape should be separated using your spudger so that you can remove the lcd.

    Chris Grayden - 回复

    The screen was a tight fit in the recess. Whilst maneouvering it out, it flexed a little. Once reassembled, there are now feint stress marks visible when the screen displays a uniform background. With photos it's not noticeable, but on solid backgrounds, it is very noticeable. :-(

    Be careful when pulling the LCD out. Any hints for pulling it out safely should be added to this step.

    Cool_Breeze - 回复

    This step is bad advise. Once you get the LCD unglued top and sides, drop those plastic tools behind it to keep it up and apply heat to the front bottom of the LCD where the tape is applied on either side, use your spudger to push the tape away before you attempt to pull or flip the LCD over. It is very easy to break if you don't get the tape loose enough, so do yourself a favor and free the LCD from the tape before you attempt to maneuver it.

    brentschwartz - 回复

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - 回复

    As others have said this step is rather problematic and following the tuturial instructions will most definitely lead to damaging the LCD. One problem is that the two adhesive tapes are not indicated in the photo: they are large and black and they are partly covered by long strips of thicker material that looks like padding. To remove them it helps to heat a little with the opener and then one can slowly peel them away by alternating the sharp and flat tips of the spudger.

    lorenzocangiano - 回复

    This must be the most difficult part. I took the advice of using fishing line and it worked a treat. However, due to lack of knowledge - I managed to slice straight through the LCD ribbons (all of them). I figure it was glue so kept going! Please take not that fishing line is only good for the sides, not the top where the LCD is attached! New LCD on order for round 2.

    Mike - 回复

    Well. I cracked the LCD during this process, so another $100. But, it’s the journey that counts, right? There is adhesive keeping the LCD attached to the aluminum shield. As I was prying the LCD up (I didn't know about the adhesive), I did hear feint cracking. Also it is too tight to try to flip the LCD over as shown. I did heat the bottom strips, but still tried to do it as shown, more cracking. It seems best to heat it and push the adhesive strips back and separate them prior to lifting. As well as the sides of the LCD for lifting!!

    William Dailey - 回复

    I separated the small tape in the middle (5mm), and the large upper tape (20mm), but left the lower tape at the connector in place. That way, the LCD was much easier to pull away gently and to tilt over.

    peterhebbinckuys - 回复

    I used a needle nosed tweezers to remove the tape on the bottom left and right. I then used the plastic spudger and went between the LCD and the metal piece. I gently went down the left side about half way and then the right and slowly and gently worked both sides until they separated.

    Abbot - 回复

    This step is unclear and should be revised, but Abbot’s comment has the right idea.  The tape holding the LCD in place should be highlighted in the image. This tape wraps around the lower edge of the panel and extends onto the front face, then a piece of cushion is attached on top.  Heat that tape to soften the adhesive then peal it up.  The connector for the LCD is on the back side of the panel in the lower right hand corner, it is not near the tape you are pealing away from the panel. Once the tape is separated very little force is required to shift the panel toward the top of the device as depicted. If you attempt to ‘pull the LCD away from the speakers’ with two hands as shown, it will almost certainly be broken.  Also, all the youtube explanations (at least the ones I could find) of how to remove the LCD make it look like you lift up on the top which would only cause the LCD to break.  So youtube failed this step as well.  It’s not easy, be careful.

    P.S. as these steps are replicated between more than one device –– I’m working on an iPad mini 3 LTE, the tape may be in different places on other devices?

    ciradrak -

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy - 回复

    The three tapes is best removed with tweezers! Then the LCD is easily flipped over. Extremely odd it’s not explained in this way.

    trnilsson - 回复

  36. 切勿尝试将LCD面板完全分离开来,它仍与iPad通过位于Home键附近的几条线缆相连。 只可以从前置摄像头处提起。 将LCD像翻书一样,抓住前置摄像头的那一端,将其从后壳中翻转过来。
    • 切勿尝试将LCD面板完全分离开来,它仍与iPad通过位于Home键附近的几条线缆相连。 只可以从前置摄像头处提起。

    • 将LCD像翻书一样,抓住前置摄像头的那一端,将其从后壳中翻转过来。

    • 小心,在你翻转的时候,时刻盯着LCD线缆

    • 将LCD放置在前面板上,确保能够触及到显示排线。

  37. 在液晶显示屏和粘贴标签之间滑动撬棒的尖端以分离LCD。 在两个粘合片之间轻轻推动; 小心不要损坏附近任何的电缆。 在两个粘合片之间轻轻推动; 小心不要损坏附近任何的电缆。
    • 在液晶显示屏和粘贴标签之间滑动撬棒的尖端以分离LCD。

    • 在两个粘合片之间轻轻推动; 小心不要损坏附近任何的电缆。

    This was harder than it looks. The adhesive tape covers a lot of area and has stuck to it tiny wires that go to the speaker. I had to use the tweezers to very carefully separate the wire from the adhesive, and to then pull the adhesive off the circuit board area in one spot before it would finally come away.

    Ray Everett - 回复

  38. 移除LCD屏蔽版上的七颗1.8mm Phillips #00 螺丝。
    • 移除LCD屏蔽版上的七颗1.8mm Phillips #00 螺丝。

    My LCD shield plate had many more screws than this. You have to remove them all.

    David Rowthorn - 回复

    At the assembly stage I found it is easier to use Philips PH000 screw driver bit than PH00. It helped me to get these minuscule screws in place, catch the head holes and drive them into their tight position. While using PH00 the driver would not catch the holes in their head and I was risking scratching the display since the screws refused to settle in the openings.

    mxmbulat - 回复

  39. 使用撬棒扁平的一段撬起LCD 屏蔽板。 移除LCD屏蔽版。 移除LCD屏蔽版。
    • 使用撬棒扁平的一段撬起LCD 屏蔽板。

    • 移除LCD屏蔽版。

    You can also just slide it back to expose the cable bracket.

    Will - 回复

  40. 从显示屏电路支架上取下以下十字螺丝#00螺丝:
    • 从显示屏电路支架上取下以下十字螺丝#00螺丝:

    • 一颗2.7mm螺丝

    • 两颗1.4mm螺丝

    Why remove the LDC if the microphones are on the other side?

    Yousef Ghalib - 回复

  41. 从iPad上取下显示屏电路支架。
    • 从iPad上取下显示屏电路支架。

  42. 使用撬棒的点轻轻地将电池连接器从主板上的插座上提起。 要小心,只能撬起电池连接器,而不是在插座本身上。 如果您在主板插槽上撬起,则可能会完全破坏连接器。 要小心,只能撬起电池连接器,而不是在插座本身上。 如果您在主板插槽上撬起,则可能会完全破坏连接器。
    • 使用撬棒的点轻轻地将电池连接器从主板上的插座上提起。

    • 要小心,只能撬起电池连接器,而不是在插座本身上。 如果您在主板插槽上撬起,则可能会完全破坏连接器。

    During reassembly, be sure to well press the battery connector in place. Otherwise, you will ave to re open... as I had to do !

    ZARAGOZA - 回复

    Any advice RE reassembly and the adhesive? Just heat and it re-adheres?

    drewmc - 回复

    This step is unnecessary. Or I don't know.

    Clément Marshall - 回复

    This step is unnecessary! I just replaced the screen, and skipped this step!

    trnilsson - 回复

  43. 使用平头端将LCD连接器从主板上的插座上提起。 不要撬开连接器旁边的大IC,否则可能会破侧面轻轻地撬坏连接器。 从连接器的起,如图所示。
    • 使用平头端将LCD连接器从主板上的插座上提起。

    • 不要撬开连接器旁边的大IC,否则可能会破侧面轻轻地撬坏连接器。 从连接器的起,如图所示。

    This step i also unnecessary. Just flip the LCD back to uncover the digitizer connector.

    trnilsson - 回复

  44. 从iPad上取下LCD面板。
    • 从iPad上取下LCD面板。

    Please note that there are 2 strips of adhesive on the left and the right side of the display. Use a string or fishing wire to loosen the adhesive. I cracked my LCD and had to order a new one because this step was missing.

    jdmasfuuck - 回复

  45. 使用撬棒将数字转换器电缆连接器从插座上提起。 使用撬棒将数字转换器电缆连接器从插座上提起。
    • 使用撬棒将数字转换器电缆连接器从插座上提起。

    During reassembly at this point, be very careful to line up both sides of the connector. I came very close to destroying the digitizer cable connectors because I wasn't paying attention.

    Jeff G - 回复

    I learned the hard way that we should be lifting from the short side of the connector, not the long side as shown here. The gold pins inside the FPC socket are very fragile and more likely to break when lifted as shown in this picture.

    Frank Buccella - 回复

    Yes, I just learned that lesson as well. IMO a bit too ridiculously fragile.

    Daniel - 回复

    Hi, i just broke this micro pins… it’s extremely fragile. Whats the name and were i can found a replacement to this connector? I ll try to find a friend that have a equipment for soldering this…

    Leonardo Marques de Souza - 回复

  46. 将撬棒滑入数字面板的电池侧,开始与后壳分离。 将数字面板抬起以去除最后的粘合剂。 将数字面板抬起以去除最后的粘合剂。
    • 将撬棒滑入数字面板的电池侧,开始与后壳分离。

    • 将数字面板抬起以去除最后的粘合剂。

  47. 从iPad上提起并取出前面板。
    • 从iPad上提起并取出前面板。

  48. 如果您要安装新的面板组件,那您需要做些准备。 剥离围绕前面板组件周边的粘合剂的塑料条。
    • 如果您要安装新的面板组件,那您需要做些准备。

    • 剥离围绕前面板组件周边的粘合剂的塑料条。

    • 从数字转换器电缆上取下小块粘合剂。

    • 确保所有的铜焊覆盖在新的更换屏幕上,一旦 错误安装,屏幕将随意移动。

    The pieces didn't adhere properly at the step. However, I continued the process and didn't have any issue with operation of the screen or system. I would recommend that this be a QA check at the manufacturer or third party company.

    paulmcneely - 回复

    The new replacements have it wrapped in a sticker, I opened it to see if there was any adhesive, but there is not. Just carry on, ignore the pressing it on itself step.

    Kelly Spongberg - 回复

    Yes the new replacements have this all wrapped in a sticker but I still had false imput problems with the new front panel assembly.

    Any ideas anyone?

    Pilar A - 回复

    What do you mean, “all copper is covered on the new replacement screen?”

    gentry - 回复

    What do you mean, “all copper is covered on the new replacement screen?”

    Yes, this is a pretty important instruction, it would seem. I can infer a meaning but would feel better if it was more specific. Thanks!

    bstolzer - 回复

    stolzer  gentry  notice the photo above… there is exposed copper parts next to the home button, these must be covered in electrical tape.

    David - 回复

    I just received a new front planel and the digitizer connector is wrapped in a black electrical tape. I removed to check for the adhesive between circuit and connector but didn't see any, I re-wrapped in the original black tape which I think should be left alone. Also there was a yellow tape over the back of the home button and circuitry between the digitizer cable and home button. I removed this when I removed the blue plastic on the adhesive but I don't think your suppose to. After repair, home button doesn't work which might be because removing that tape.

    Ken Bauer - 回复

  49. 将数字转换器电缆弯折,并用力按压来固定粘合剂。 将数字转换器电缆弯折,并用力按压来固定粘合剂。 将数字转换器电缆弯折,并用力按压来固定粘合剂。
    • 将数字转换器电缆弯折,并用力按压来固定粘合剂。

    The old glue was full of tiny shards. I rubbed it all away with many Q-tips and petroleum ether. To protect the LCD I used a sheet of heavy paper. Cleaning took a lot of patience.

    Still should have listened to Mike: The digitizer ribbon cable went between the frame and the panel. It was bent too sharply. Touch worked, but the home button did not. When i tried to reopen, the glass cracked. Big disappointment, but ill try again!

    luc - 回复

    Same here, so suspect I have the same problem, didn't see these comments until after I finished!

    Took me nearly 2 hours to remove the glass because it just shattered even more every time I used the sucker. Used IsoPropanol to clean.

    Checked all was working with the new digitiser and home button by starting iPad before sealing the glass shut, all ok.

    Stuck it all down, home button works occasionally, but also siri bleeps on it's own sometimes as if someones pressing the button. Also, if I press either side of the home button I get a reaction as if I've pressed the home button, or sometimes I get the double tap action and sometimes Siri, makes me think that there is something shorting / touching that shouldn't be, unless it's the ribbon.

    Will order another kit and give it another go shortly as the glass is sure to break when you re-open.

    Barry Tresadern -

    @Barry Tresadern

    I had the same problem with the home button acting crazy. The problem is on the new screen there are metal contacts that are exposed and they are touching the metal frame making it seem the button is being pressed. If you look on the old screen you'll see strips of tape covering these metal contacts. You can either peel them off and put them on the new screen or just use some electrical tape.

    Patrick -

    Excuse me for my ignorance but... where is the RE-assembly guide?

    Francisco O - 回复

    iFixit feels as if you don't need to actually fix the device, just take it apart ;)

    Koby Springer -

    With this step, im looking for a replacement screen. I cant seem to see the same connector as the one illustrated here. Is there 2 ribbons mixed there?

    James - 回复

    James, I think you're referring to the IC chip that most glass panels do not include. If you do not have soldering knowledge (and a lot of confidence and time) then it's crucial that you purchase a panel that has the IC chip attached, otherwise you will need to remove the old one from the broken assembly and re-solder it on to the new one - honestly not worth the time involved unless you know what you're doing.

    Katie -

    I've been able to replace a shattered screen. Took about an hour and a half. This consisted of mostly cleaning the shards. I wish there were some glue in the kit - I don't know if there is enough left from the previous screen to hold the new one. I'm likely going to use craft glue to make up the difference. Any other suggestions?

    [deleted] - 回复

    Heating the glue with a hair dryer or heat gun helps or you can buy very thin double faced tape.

    Michael Vovaris -

    I thought that it was a successful repair and resealed the iPad and turned it back on after replacing the digitalizer and the LCD screen, yet neither the home button nor the power button are working. After holding the power button, the power will come on but just one "click" the screen does not react. I tried moving the tape around the home button from the broken digitalizer to the new digitalizer, yet neither button works. I need help ASAP, I don't want to damage the iPad screen more by leaving it unopened for extended periods of time. Any suggestions?

    James Johnson - 回复

    the new pannel comes with a yellow tape on those contacts. Do not remove it. (or replace it !)

    ZARAGOZA - 回复

    Yes..do not remove this tape!

    Banu -

    Yes I learned the hard way as well, be sure you leave the yellow plastic tape over the back of the home button and surrounding circuitry or put tape over this area before install. New screen installed and the home button isn't working :-(

    Ken Bauer -

    THANK YOU Patboy2008, you saved me a friendship and a lot of heartache. I was racking my brain trying to figure out why the home button was on the fritz. Siri kept interrupting, the screen would go black, then flick on, then apps would randomly open, then it wouldn't even give me enough time to punch in my passcode. It was all about those two SILLY pieces of tape. Sure enough reopened it and noticed that the new screen didn't have the two black pieces of tape the old screen had. So glad I dug it out of the trash and transferred those pieces. It works like a charm now. Oh and this was so much harder to fix than the iPhones. The hardest part is getting the front panel off and if it's broke it'll come off in the tiniest of pieces. I hard shards of glass in my fingers that you were like invisible splinters. Be careful and take your time with this one.

    iKimmy - 回复

    Thanks for comments. Yes, do pay attention the the metal bands in the bottom frame of the front panel. DO cover a trip of electric tape on it. You will find the random moving and touching away.

    shanhaidong -

    It pays not to take the protectors off the glass panel adhesive until you have fitted the panel and turned on the ipad to test functionality a few times. (Once the adhesive sticks, it's very difficult to take the panel back off.) Also, I ended up applying two layers of electrical tape over the copper contacts on the panel before the random actions stopped. Now I am closing my third repair on the same machine. Let's hope this one sticks.

    philippschuller - 回复

    In a kit purchased in June 2019, this operation was already done.

    Clément Marshall - 回复

  50. 在安装新的前面板之前,需要将旧的前面板上的smart cover 磁铁转移到新的前面板上。 将塑料打开工具的边缘放在靠近磁铁侧,位于前面板组件的左上方。
    • 在安装新的前面板之前,需要将旧的前面板上的smart cover 磁铁转移到新的前面板上。

    • 将塑料打开工具的边缘放在靠近磁铁侧,位于前面板组件的左上方。

    • 使用右边的塑料打开工具小心地楔住磁体下面。

    • 将右侧的打开工具固定住。

    • 将左侧塑料打开工具楔入磁铁下方,同时向右侧工具方向撬动。

    • 这将需要用些力量,因为smart cover磁贴用强力粘合剂所固定。

    On the new front panel with the adhessive pre-installed, there are perforated area on the blue plastic you can peal away just for the magnets without exposing the rest of the adhesive.

    Ken Bauer - 回复

    I found these come off much easier after applying heat to the area for 5 seconds.

    Korey Bennett - 回复

    On the kit purchased in June 2019, magnets were included in the replacement part.

    Clément Marshall - 回复

  51. 如有必要,使用一对镊子将前面板组件左下角附近的smart cover磁贴下的胶带部分地剥离。
    • 如有必要,使用一对镊子将前面板组件左下角附近的smart cover磁贴下的胶带部分地剥离。

    In the kit as of July 2019, there is an area of adhesive (separate from the edge adhesive) on the screen where you want to relocate the magnets. It is in the rough shape of the magnet, so you can see how to orient the magnet (curve parallel to the curve of the case corner). When you close up the screen, the magnets fit into the depression above where the tabs of the LCD are (the ones you remove the screws from in step 31). The magnets shouldn’t be too far away from the copper-colored rim of the interior of the screen, or they will not fit into the depression and may crack the screen when you press it to close. Definitely dry fit!

    Sara Austin - 回复

  52. 使用上述步骤拆除前面板组件左下角附近的smart cover磁铁。 使用上述步骤拆除前面板组件左下角附近的smart cover磁铁。
    • 使用上述步骤拆除前面板组件左下角附近的smart cover磁铁。

  53. 在此步骤中,您将将smart cover 磁铁转移到新的前面板组件上去。 使用一对镊子小心地将左上方的smart cover磁铁放在适当位置 在左下方smart cover磁铁位置上重复上述步骤。
    • 在此步骤中,您将将smart cover 磁铁转移到新的前面板组件上去。

    • 使用一对镊子小心地将左上方的smart cover磁铁放在适当位置

    • 在左下方smart cover磁铁位置上重复上述步骤。

    • 如有必要,使用塑料打开工具的边缘调整smart cover磁铁下的胶带使其变平。

    Do not forget to remove the protective film from inside of new digitizer, remove black insulating tape from bottom of old digitizer and place on new one, covering any and all exposed copper. Take your time - the repair is not hard but it is time consuming

    David D - 回复

    Thank you for mentioning that! I don’t think I would have noticed until too late.

    ted -

    BEFORE you close everything up power up your ipad and make sure all the buttons and functions work properly, charging, rotation, home button, sleep button

    Chris Grayden - 回复

    Step 66, it is important to put the magnets in the same Exact place and orientation or you could break the glass (again) during installation.

    Phil Fite - 回复

    The orientation of the magnets may also be important to the devices’s ability to wake/sleep in response to the cover being opened and closed.

    ciradrak -

    No mention is made of using any adhesive during the installation of the new panel. There are gobs of adhesives for many different purposes. Is there any recommendation for re-establishing an adhesive for the new panel?

    Jim Dutton - 回复

    Step 35b : watch for LCD white screw tabs as you pull up LCD panel so that they don't bind at the bottom and break off (definite crack)!

    Jim Dutton - 回复

    Step 46: was easier, at least for me, to insert spudger between frame and digitizer board (left side) rather than trying to get under it from its right side.

    Jim Dutton - 回复

    All of this & they could have simply made the connector cable on the front glass a snap on connector & cut out 60 steps of this repair.

    Gary - 回复

    I was repairing the broken glass on my iPad. A lot of the broken glass was in small fragments along the edges which made sliding the pick underneath to loosen the glass quite difficult. Things would go well until I hit a small island of broken glass and the pick would stall as the glass wouldn’t budge. It took several re-heating cycles with the microwave heat pad and a lot of patience to break those loose. In retrospect, probably could have ignored them until the bulk of the glass was removed and then _gently & patiently_ chisel them out separately.

    Rory Filer - 回复

    Still had ghost touch issue with the iPad mini so I ended up purchasing Kapton tape on Amazon and used it to cover the entire bottom part of the iPad mini 2 where the Home button is, not just the gold connectors as previously suggested. Apparently this is a common issue with the iPad minis where the digitizer and home button are grounded to the iPad’s chassis. Thankfully, that resolved the issues of ghost touch and my daughter’s iPad is now working like a charm. Just wished your iFixit digitizers were properly prepped with Kapton tape from the factory. Hope this helps with other iFixit customers suffering from the same issue.

    Yousef Ghalib - 回复

    I believe I finally figured out the issue with the iPad mini. I feel like an idiot! It was improper installation. Ghosting on a the iPad mini was caused by creasing the digitizer flex incorrectly. It can NOT be allowed to bend backwards and touch the adhesive for the screen (I checked--mine and was bent backwards and creased due to it sticking to the adhesive). The flex must gently bow forward towards the LCD and not be allowed to crease. Unfortunately the digitizer is compromised and unusable. We’ll need a new digitizer but this time I wont make the same mistake

    Yousef Ghalib - 回复

    One of the more difficult/frustrating issues I had during reassembly was the tendency of the digitizer cable to place itself between the frame & the glass. This prevented the glass from seating completely in the frame & I believe would have caused damage to the ribbon cable had I not noticed it. I had to use a flat tool to guide the ribbon cable away from the frame as I lowered the glass into place. I am not in a position to do it, but I hope a reassembly document will be added to these instructions, as it’s not simply a matter of “following the instructions in reverse order.”!!!

    kevs - 回复

    Good tip! I replaced a digitizer myself after a shop had done it once already. Aside from new cracks, there were problems with dead spots on the screen, and the lock button would shut down but not sleep the screen. The screen I took off looked like the digitizer cable had been pinched like you noted, and I wonder if that was causing the problems.

    ted -

    If your ipad has a dented corner, you may need to trim the new glass a bit so that it fits flush. The ipad I worked on had been dented in the corner, which what cracked the screen in the first place. The dent pushed in the metal lip enough that a replacement screen would sit on top of it, so that a little too much pressure on the glass will make it crack again. A diamond-coated file will work to file off some of the glass on the corner. Full sized Leatherman multi-tools often have a diamond coating on the back side of the coarse file — it works great. Just be patient as it takes a while to grind off.

    ted - 回复

    You Could Add One more Step: When assembling the screen it is necessary to tuck the digitizer cable back into the tablet as it wants to fold toward the outer edge and prevent the digitizer glass assembly from laying flat against the framework. You can do that with a Spudger by pushing the cabole back into the tablet as you close or seat the glass digitizer.

    Larry Bennett - 回复

    At which step during reassembly to remove blue protective film on the adhesive is never mentioned. I did it too early and thought of preserving it with cling film which does not peel off afterwards. Don't do this. I suggest removing this stuff just before turning “the page” back on.

    Clément Marshall - 回复

结论

要重新组装您的设备,请按照相反的顺序执行这些说明。

212等其他人完成本指南。

特别感谢这些译者︰

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笑得像个300斤的孩子正在帮助我们修复这个世界! 想要作出贡献?
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Step 16 through step 24

I made a mess:

- I slid the picks all around the glass breaking the glass, the antenna and digit cables.

What do I need to fix it ? I have already ordered by you a front glass and a a logic board

(LCD I have it already). What do I need more ?

Pls. Help

Sergio Ungaro

su40 - 回复

Hey, I have a big problem.

I did all this steps and everything was fine so i put it together. Now I have a ghost-touch if i press the margin at the right edge. I didn't remove the yellow stripe and i thing the cable is not between the frame and the metal.

thx

David - 回复

Had the same issue. Just use Kapton tape and cover the bottom part of the ipad where the Home button is. What’s causing the issue is grounding thus the ghost touch. Search or “Ipad mini ghost touch kapton” on YouTube. Hope this helps.

Yousef Ghalib -

THE LCD SCREEN IS EXTREMELY FRAGILE

you will crack it with the slightest bend. This is crucial as you try to free it from the STRONG adhesive tape at the bottom speakers. This tutorial has no mention of how careful you have to be with the LCD, or how much stronger the adhesion is in this area, but then again, you can always purchase a new LCD from iFixit, riiiiight?

James Billy - 回复

Good info! Thanx

thomas -

THE LCD IS EXTREMELY FRAGILE. SUPER HIGH WARNING.

You WILL shatter the lcd with the slightest bend. This is critical when you are attempting to free it from the speaker adhesive tape (steps 34-36). The fragility of the lcd screen and the high adhesive strength at the bottom are NOT MENTIONED at all in this how-to, but then again, you can always purchase a new LCD screen from iFixit, riiiiiiiiiigt?

James Billy - 回复

Need input please. install of new glass went off without a hitch, straight forward, however with one little problem. The home button on the new glass does not work. everything else works like it should.... What now?

nkorodimas - 回复

Same problem as nkorodimas. Everything seems to work fine but the home button. Trying to perform a restore results in an update error and then tries to carry out the restore again. Any advice?

Simon Hillman - 回复

Most likely the front panel connector was not fully inserted or there is debris in the front panel connector. Worst case, the ribbon cable responsible for connecting the home button was damaged during reassembly.

Jeff G -

It would be good to mention the smart cover magnets earlier in the procedure -- especially for those people that are replacing a very smashed front panel. I had to go hunting through a pile of broken glass and adhesive to find the magnets. It would have been good to be aware that they are attached to the front panel and to watch out for them.

Jeff G - 回复

You should always read the complete procedure BEFORE beginning the procedure. That way, you usually eliminate any surprises.

Tomme Foster -

lcd is bonded to body with adhesive and is extremely fragile, this is not mentioned, also when placing the new digitizer you can not just simply folllow the guide in the reverse order because DIGITIZER CABLE GETS STUCK BETWEEN THE GLASS AND BODY. this causes glass lifting up and digitizer cable to get damaged. reckless guide, 2/10

omergezer - 回复

I agree. I had to carefully manipulate the cable with a flat tool to get it to stay away from the frame. Luckily I didn’t break the cable before I noticed it’s position. I had several fitment problems, so I started over with a new adhesive kit. My problems with fitment were because the frame was slightly bent & a dent in the side needed to be filed down to allow the glass to fit properly. The adhesive kit did not come with any instructions, but luckily I was able to figure out in which order to peel the plastic covers. The strips did not come packaged as in the picture & had sticky clear plastic sheets on both sides & the actual adhesive backing was clear, making it difficult to know which to peel off first.

kevs -

Went smoothly for the most part. LCD ended up cracked as well. Was not a result of disassembly. Thanks for the guide. It was detailed and certainly helped with the disassembly.

JNoles - 回复

I have reused the digitizer after replacing the LCD. I don't have any response from about a quarter of the screen each side (left and right). I did try covering the copper but didn't make much difference.

Any ideas??

Stephen - 回复

Sounds like either the touch IC on the screen has been moved or the digi has been broken in some place. I'd reccomend a new digi that should solve the touch issues, if it has the IC pre soldered makes the job a lot easier.

maddog256 -

Quick question! I got a small piece of glass on the LCD screen, and it left a white mark. Now I'm trying to figure out if that wrecked the LCD screen, or if that isn't going to matter. Because the last thing I want to do is put it all back together and see that the LCD screen is messed up. Any advice?

cpecrivaine - 回复

More than likely just gonna to leave a mark on the LCD it wont effect usage you will see it there in use though, 9 times out of 10 it'll all function fine with no issues

maddog256 -

First I broke the LCD as well (my bad) :(

when all was finished, you apparently need to follow a (only 1 correct) sequence to reassemble the ribbons, so i blew up an (for me) not repareable fuse on the mother board ... so had to throw all away :(

however was my first mishap after fixing quit a lot of diffrent versions of iphones, so it was learners money spent ...

erwinvrieze - 回复

Performed the repair and was extremely careful! The ipad powers up and the home button works, but the screen is not responding to touch?

Gerald Shea - 回复

Finished the repair yesterday and have been using the iPad for last 24 hours and everything seems to be working great. Like a couple of others have mentioned, be sure to read all the instructions AND comments before starting. For example, knowing ahead of time that you need to remove the magnets from the touch panel glass to reuse is very important. My front panel was completely shattered and came off in pieces, so I probably would have missed that if I had not read the instructions first.

For a shattered screen like mine, the suction cup doesn't work. I used Duck Tape to hold the screen somewhat together and folded tabs into the Duck Tape so I had something to hang on to. Take your time and be patient on Steps 32 to 36 so you don't damage the LCD. I read the instructions and comments and took my time loosening the adhesive.

At the end, I left the covering on the adhesive on the touch panel and powered it up to be sure it worked before I exposed the adhesive and put it together.

cbrouwer - 回复

Thanks for the tip

Pa Du -

this is a very comprehensive guide. all i can say is thanks so much! i've been fearing this repair but feel much better now.

Benedict Kim - 回复

Great guide. Very comprehensive. Make sure the home button works properly on your replacement part and is aligned correctly before you start . Beware the white / black border of the digitiser scratches very easily.

Ian Cockett - 回复

i replaced the screen and digitizer but the the touch screen is unresponsive. i know pluged the digitizer in.

Taylor youngreen (Kodi4444) - 回复

I held the power button and the home button and the apple icon popped up and i think it just restarted and now it works

Taylor youngreen (Kodi4444) -

My digitizer glass is completely shattered, so it came off in many many pieces. I can’t find even one smart magnet. We don’t use a magnetic cover for the ipad, so can I continue without the smart magnets?

MATTHEW MALONEY - 回复

Just repaired my iPad Mini 2, the Guide is very thorough. Only problem is that now my “Power” button works only to make the iPad Start or Shutdown (no “wake” function more). The home button does not work, the accelerometers seems not to work anymore as the Screen Rotation does not work anymore. Plus I get some random “sleep” of the iPad during operation. I guess I’ll need to open it all over again :S

Athos Bernardes - 回复

What made this repair difficult for me was that my screen was significantly cracked and there is no easy way to get it out. It broke a lot more and made a huge mess. I ended up having glass at the top and bottom that I had to basically use the metal spudger to completely remove it.

I recommend covering the LCD with a large cloth while you work to remove all the broken bits of screen. This will help avoid getting finger prints on it or tiny pieces of glass on it. If you do get tiny glass particles on he LCD I recommend using compressed air to remove the glass. If you try to wipe it off it will scratch the LCD.

The other hard part of this repair was replacing the magnets for the sleep functionality to work properly. I did not buy my replacement screen from iFixit which may have been a mistake. I have heard that some of the 3rd party screens don’t work well on replacing the magnets. One of my magnets also broke. I wish that the replacement screens game with the magnets pre-installed in the correct places.

Derrick F - 回复

Thx for the instructions. Fits like a glove and Works ;)

Cheers

TMo

Timo Wolf - 回复

When reassembling and replacing the LCD shield plate, the tiny screws will want to jump onto the magnets on the left side. I used the combination of tweezers and the philips driver to push the screws into the holes.

scotttroyer - 回复

Ok I powered it up the first time and the screen lit up and apple stuff came up but the next time I powered it up nothing on the screen. When I connect the charger u can hear the noise to start changing but nothing on screen??? What did I do wrong?

KC Gaeth - 回复

Ok so the instructions worked great but the home button no longer works?!! Help!

Ana Stempel - 回复

I was not that careful with getting the lcd out, so I damaged it and had to buy a new one. Also, the digitizer I bought from ebay did not have the circuit for the wake sensor, so sleep/wake with cover was not working (note that the magnets are only for holding the cover in place). Did not mind that so much, but the replacement I bought was so bad that the button broke within two months, so I replaced digitizer again, this time with a quality one. Now it works fine, except for the lcd flickering occasionally, which gets fixed by putting the ipad face down on a table and knocking it on the edges with my hand. Don’t know what causes that, but I am reluctant to open it again. With the extra parts I ordered the cost was almost equal to a professional replacement, which may (or may not) have had better end result. But learned some things along too ;)

Stavros Vachtsevanos - 回复

I believe I finally figured out the issue with the iPad mini ghost touch after installing a new digitizer. I feel like an idiot! It was improper installation. Ghosting on a the iPad mini was caused by creasing the digitizer flex incorrectly. It can NOT be allowed to bend backwards and touch the adhesive for the screen (I checked--mine and was bent backwards and creased due to it sticking to the adhesive). The flex must gently bow forward towards the LCD and not be allowed to crease. Unfortunately the digitizer is compromised and unusable. We’ll need a new digitizer but this time I wont make the same mistake.

Yousef Ghalib - 回复

Great guide for repair, my only hiccup was the darn home button working, had to take the tape covering the contacts on the old screen off and move them to the new one.

Overall, it was a great experience!

Chuck Kintz - 回复

On my repair, the black tape covering the home button peeled off when I removed the tape covering the adhesive strip on the front glass. I have not had an issue with the operation tho. Also, the instructions don’t make any mention of removing the old adhesive around the edge of the case. I did it, as I assumed that the adhesive on the glass plus the old adhesive would have caused a fit problem. My digitizer connector did not have foam on its back & the old foam was not removable. I hope that will not be an issue.

Kev

kevin stephen - 回复

I certainly appreciate the effort that went into providing these instructions, but unfortunately the reassembly is totally ignored. It is NOT just a matter of reversing the disassembly instructions! As evidenced in some of the above comments, reassembly issues have been the cause of quite a few problems.

kevin stephen - 回复

Excellent! Great for those without broken screens. Even with a broken screen, it still suffices for a break-down of all the important steps and things to watch out for. For my second and more successful repair on an iPad Mini 2, I would highly recommend the iOpener to help. FOLLOW the directions, or expect other results.

David M - 回复

What about the Home button!?!?!?

mamashannon4u - 回复

Thanks for a great repair guide!! I’ve used your guide twice with sucess!

jamieoyakawa - 回复

FWIW - my replacement front panel came with the magnets attached. Thanks for this guide. I did spend an extra 10 minutes using “Goof Off Pro Strength” on the chassis rim to get the glue remnants off before reassembly.

Chris Johnston - 回复

Worked great. Thanks so much for the excellent guide. My digitizer is fixed and the iPad is up and running perfectly again!

Adam Isgreen - 回复

Very difficult assembly, but doable. My glass had shattered before I started, and that made the removal quite difficult. With a shattered screen, the suction cup is worthless, and I had to remove the shards of glass piecemeal. A handy tip: If the tweezers you use get too sticky with adhesive, use acetone to clean off the adhesive. That really helps.

echevlen - 回复

Worked fine. You need to be careful about where you put tape if the glass is cracked so that the suction cup sticks, and you may need to slide picks in other places to work around those cracks.

It would be nice if the guide explained how to put the new adhesive on. I had to guess, and don’t think I did it exactly right.

Alex Thaler - 回复

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