Shouldn’t this be Step 22? i.e. you can only remove the logic board after disconnecting the cables.
On an early 2015 model, I found the T9 Torx bit to be too tight a fit in the hinge screw heads. Almost to the point where one screw head got slightly damaged as the bit slipped when turning as it hadn’t gone in far enough. This is the T9 bit that came with the iFixIt 64 bit driver kit.
So I used the T8 bit instead and managed to loosen the other screws much more easily. It’s a slightly looser fit but it goes in further and didn’t slip even though the screws on this particular machine were very very tightly screwed in.
This is quite scary. I wonder what the technical explanation for this behaviour is?
Is it safe to just power it up using the built in battery? And then once it powers up, plug in the normal charger?
How is this bit waterproofed on re-assembly?
I would add that it’s imperative to loosen the camera from its housing before attempting to remove the motherboard. The two are connected via another very short ribbon cable with zif connector. Trying to pull the motherboard out with the camera still stuck to the front could damage the cable/connector. In my mind it’s safer for both to come out together while still connected.
Just for the sake of clarity, I would add that you need to pry between the plastic bezel and the back casing. Not between the glass and bezel. Someone had already tried on the one I worked on and part of the bezel was missing in the top right corner. Made my job easier!
The best tools for this part are definitely something like the iFixit Jimmy and their opening tool, a few guitar picks and a spudger. Not too difficult once you get the first separation.
When reassembling, I found it easier to loosen the HD tray screw from Step 48 and pull the tray outwards from the left side in order to plug the SATA cable in more easily.
This step needs extra detail on how the LCD adhesive should be loosened. I've now got stress marks on the LCD which show up when solid backgrounds are displayed on screen as the LCD flexed when trying to pry it out.
The screen was a tight fit in the recess. Whilst maneouvering it out, it flexed a little. Once reassembled, there are now feint stress marks visible when the screen displays a uniform background. With photos it's not noticeable, but on solid backgrounds, it is very noticeable. :-(
Be careful when pulling the LCD out. Any hints for pulling it out safely should be added to this step.