跳转到主内容

简介

Use this guide to replace the MagSafe DC-In board.

  1. Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
    • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.0 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

  2. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

    • Set the lower case aside.

  3. Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.
    • Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.

  4. Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
    • Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

  5. Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.
    • Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.

    • The cable connection points are fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

    • To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

  6. Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector toward the fan and out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector toward the fan and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, first on one side, then the other, to slowly "walk" the connector out of its socket. Do not pry up, or you will damage the socket.

  7. Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan. Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive. Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.
    • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.

    • Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive.

    • Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

  8. Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan. The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them. Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.
    • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

    • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

  9. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the rubber hinge covers up off the left and right hinges. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the rubber hinge covers up off the left and right hinges.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the rubber hinge covers up off the left and right hinges.

  10. Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.  On reassembly, connect this end first as it does not flex. In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board connector from its socket on the I/O Board. Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.
    • Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. On reassembly, connect this end first as it does not flex.

    • In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board connector from its socket on the I/O Board.

    • Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.

  11. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.

  12. PC 笔记本电池

    An easy fix for a big power boost.

    现在开始购物

    PC 笔记本电池

    An easy fix for a big power boost.

    现在开始购物
  13. Grasp the thin sides of the AirPort card and pull parallel to the logic board, removing the AirPort card from the MacBook Pro. Grasp the thin sides of the AirPort card and pull parallel to the logic board, removing the AirPort card from the MacBook Pro.
    • Grasp the thin sides of the AirPort card and pull parallel to the logic board, removing the AirPort card from the MacBook Pro.

  14. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the right fan cable to free it from the logic board.

    • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board.

  15. Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar

  16. Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.
    • Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.

    • When reinstalling the fan, it's easiest connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you've installed the three fan screws.

  17. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.

  18. Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar.

    • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

  19. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.

    • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board. If necessary, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the cable in order to soften the adhesive and make it easier to remove.

    • Lift the left fan out of the device.

    • When reinstalling the fan, it's easiest connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you've installed the three fan screws.

  20. Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

  21. Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board. Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.

  22. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer. Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the I/O board data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

  23. Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board. Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.
    • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board.

    • Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.

  24. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board

    • Be sure to pry on the cable head, and not on the socket itself. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

  25. Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard ribbon cable connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard ribbon cable connector.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to push the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

  26. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up out of its socket.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up out of its socket.

  27. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  28. Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

  29. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

  30. Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near the MagSafe 2 connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near the MagSafe 2 connector.

  31. Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:
    • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:

    • One 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 5.5 mm silver, raised-head T5 Torx screw

    • Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 3.8 mm silver T5 Torx screw

  32. Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro. You may need to slide the logic board a few millimeters to the left in order to get clearance for the ports along the right edge of the board.
    • Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro.

    • You may need to slide the logic board a few millimeters to the left in order to get clearance for the ports along the right edge of the board.

    • Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board.

    • Disconnecting the MagSafe 2 connector can be difficult. If you are only removing the logic board to temporarily get it out of the way, such as for a battery replacement, you may find it easier to simply remove the two 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board, and then remove the logic board and MagSafe board together.

  33. Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro. When reinstalling the motherboard, make sure all cables are visible and not trapped under the motherboard. Clockwise from top: battery, right speaker, keyboard backlight, AirPort/camera, display, microphone, left speaker, keyboard, and trackpad.
    • Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.

    • When reinstalling the motherboard, make sure all cables are visible and not trapped under the motherboard.

    • Clockwise from top: battery, right speaker, keyboard backlight, AirPort/camera, display, microphone, left speaker, keyboard, and trackpad.

  34. Rotate the device 180 degrees to more easily access the rest of the internal components. Remove the two 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case.
    • Rotate the device 180 degrees to more easily access the rest of the internal components.

    • Remove the two 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case.

    • Slide the MagSafe DC-In board towards the right to free it from its recess within the upper case.

    • Lift and remove the MagSafe DC-In board out of the upper case assembly.

结论

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

19等其他人完成本指南。

Thanks! I just completed this repair on a 15” mid 2015. It’s almost identical except there are some extra shields to remove from some of the connections (IO board cable connections, touch pad connection) which are very obvious.

I accidentally broke the flip/hinge for the ZIF on the right fan but it doesn’t seem to be an issue because the cable fits in snug anyways.

Christopher Reid - 回复

thanks a lot! I did the same repair on a 15” mid 2015 and encountered the same issues described already by Christopher. Had also a broken flip on the ZIF of the right fan. But everything works again.

Georges Moes - 回复

添加评论

浏览统计数据:

过去的24小时: 21

过去的7天: 128

过去的30天: 360

总计 14,062