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2009 年年中款 A1278 / 2.26 或 2.53 GHz Core 2 Duo 处理器 EMC 2326

MacBook Pro screen fading out

Hi there!

I found some similar questions, but none specific enough to make sure they were the same problem, and none with detailed solutions.

A video of the symptoms before I explain with words:

My Macbook's screen sometimes starts fading out. First the pixels get wider, meaning the image seems pixelated. Then the colors start changing, until it gets inverted, then it fades to completely dark grey.

There's no correlation of when it does that and when it doesn't. Sometimes I am just working while everything is normal, and all of a sudden it starts. Sometimes it’s in the morning, I am just waking it from sleep, without even touching the screen, and it’s in that state.

If I then try to bend a little bit the upper left corner of the screen, it goes back to normal. Sometimes it’s enough to keep it working without my pressure. Sometimes as soon as I let go, it starts fading again, and I have to push the whole computer against something to exert that pressure while I work.

Sometimes the problem will remain for weeks and months, and at some point go away for weeks and months.

Sometimes I have to press very hard for the screen to come back to normal, sometimes a very gentle touch will suffice.

It’s mostly on the upper left corner that I have to bend. Sometimes it’s on the upper right corner, but rarely.

What I tried

When I plug an external display, it works fine.

I tried opening up the Macbook and disconnecting the screen, vacuuming the cable, socket, and everything.

Sometimes after I put everything back together, the problem goes away for a few weeks. Sometimes it doesn’t change anything.

I also tried opening the case while the laptop is on, and moving a little bit the display cable, to see if it changes anything. It didn’t.

Other things I noticed

I noticed that some kind of shield on the motherboard’s socket is out of position. But it seems unlikely to me to cause the problem:

图片

I also noticed a visual irregularity on the display cable’s outer wrapping, but I don’t know whether that’s damage or not:

图片
图片

I very recently noticed that the top part of my LCD is unglued from its shell. But I don’t know whether it was there before, and thus could be a cause, or whether it’s the consequence of my bending the top left corner of the screen so many times.

How I see things

It seems to me the screen itself is fine.

So I feel like it could be either the socket on the motherboard, or the cable, or the socket on the LCD. Right?

Questions

Does anyone know whether there is a quick fix to this, or how to narrow down the cause?

My partner’s laptop is a 2010 macbook pro, so the same but one year younger. Do you know if I could plug her screen onto my laptop? If so I could rule out the motherboard socket, or conversely incriminate it.

Thanks a lot in advance for the help!

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It would be kinda pointless to swap the display from your partnerss laptop, instead just swap over the HDD or SSD. @Danj is this the same issue I had with my 2015 model? What happened here with the screen? It has the same effect!

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@livfe - Your issue was a bad T-CON. Here we have a bad logic board connector as it's become damaged. Here the fade-out is the lost of video signal as the T-CON is being starved of the updated screen refresh so the currently drawn screen fades.

The connector interface is not stable! This is similar to a ceiling light bulb getting loose so it flickers as people walk on the floor above or after turning off it magically shuts off as the bulb heats up changing the connection, so you let the bulb cool down and it works to fail once again!

Here the connection is breaking down between the cable and the logic board.

The proof is the stability of the external display image.

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2个答案

@johndupont yep. It's either the cable not properly locking in place, shortening out and or losing contact with the display connector. Hopefully it's the display cable, since otherwise you will have to replace the display connector on your logic board. The LCD is the same from the late 2008, late 2009 to the mid 2010. So if that is what your partner's computer is, then yes, you can use that to check. Let us know what you find out. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody 中期显示屏更换 MacBook Pro 13“一体式2009LCD面板更换

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 显示屏图片

指南

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody 中期显示屏更换

难度:

中等

1 - 2 hours

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 LCD面板图片

指南

MacBook Pro 13“一体式2009LCD面板更换

难度:

非常困难

1 - 2 hours

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Thank you VERY MUCH for the very swift and helpful reply.

I'll try swapping my partner's screen then.

If it's the cable, could it be that it's unseated from its connector on the LCD side? If then I could just try reseating it?

Again, a very big thank you for your help!

完成的

@johndupont If it would be unseated it would not be an intermittent error. It would do this all of the time. Your LCd is losing signal either directly at the connector or at the damaged cable end. Once you test it with your other LCD (hopefully that one has an undamaged cable) and it works okay then you know it is your cable. If the currently working one also displays the same error then you know it is the logic board connector. Replacing the connector should repair this. Of course, that will require some board level repair soldering but it definitely can be done. Just out of curiosity, would you know what may have happened to this board and how the connector might have gotten damaged?

完成的

Thanks a huge lot again for the swift and helpful reply.

To answer your question, the problem started out of nothing. In particular, I had not disconnected the screen or the display cable ever.

By the way, DanJ seems to be certain that the logic board's connector is faulty, while you are not. Is it because you haven't noticed its picture in my question, or do you have a different opinion?

Thanks again a lot for the help!

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Sadly the logic board connector is damaged the metal bar which helps compressing the contacts of the cable to the connector has lifted. I've seen this happen a few times when the cable is pulled up vs out before lifting. We also see this issue with the iMac's as well.

Here's one source for the connector LVDS Display Connector (30-pin) you may want to inspect the display cable as it could have been damaged as well.

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Thank you VERY MUCH for the very swift and helpful reply.

Just to make sure there is no misunderstanding due to my picture not showing every angle of the motherboard, I wanted to check that you were certain this was a problem with the connector on the motherboard.

I am no expert but it seems to me that the metal part which is out of position was not exerting any pressure. It looks to me more like an electro magnetic interference shield, or something. It seemed to me that the connector itself was pretty solidly grounded to the motherboard.

Also, if this connector is the problem, does it still make sense that bending the upper left corner of the screen temporarily fixes the bad contact?

Again a huge thank you for your help!

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@johndupont - The picture is clear the logic board connector needs replacing. As to bending the the display altering things the cable routing would alter the stress of the connection which might just be enough to allow the signal to pass to the data starving T-CON board within the display. You may also need the Display cable too as the tang of the connector could be damaged as well. Here again it's easy to damage as people lift up befor the connection is disconnected which is why the logic board side gets the worse of this.

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Thanks a lot once again for the very swift and helpful reply!

As a quick fix, since you mentioned this is a problem of not enough compression on the contacts, do you think I could stick something on top of the connector, so that the pressure from the outer case could push things tight?

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@johndupont - I can't answer that as I wouldn't do it. Applying pressure is a tricky direction.

While it can be daunting to replace, it's a lot easier than it looks. The trick is using Solder-wick to remove the solder and adding a bit of paste flux and reheating the pins from one side to the other while carefully lifting the connector pin by pin using a pick making sure the solder is not holding fast. The connectors body ends are done last. The other way is to use a rework hot air station which is quicker. Or if you have a large iron with a connector tip (large broad tip) allowing you to heat up all of the pins at once.

Or, lastly, applying more solder so all of the pins are loaded so you can heat everything at once. I prefer not doing this as you often snag some of the components nearby or leave solder balls and maybe shorted out components that become bridged.

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