In theory yes in practice no, if you swap them you will end up with an off angle dpad. shape almost like an X Same goes for A B X Y, I tried to do the original nintendo layout but they where angled so it did not work well.

It doesn't work in theory or in practice. I mean it can work. But the effects wouldn't be what you would think. You would actually have to mod the chassis itself which takes patience and artistic craftsmanship. But it can be done just not as easy as one would think. I tried this last night. No cigar. You can always attempt a cross wire and play without the top chassis but it would be uncomfortable and exposed.

I'd like to know this as well, if I get one of these I'd want to replace it with an Xbox One thumbstick if possible.

Yes, actually, I think the XBOne's analog sticks can be used as drop in replacements, I've seen one person replace it with an anodized steel stick, so it can be done.

Might want to check out the steam controler subreddit (/r/steamcontroller) and the steam controller mods subreddit (/r/steamcontrollermods)

Well yeah? Anything that is soldered can be unsoldered with a soldering wick and iron. Its roughly the same size. So it should fit through the plastic case. I may be wrong though. It can definitely be replaced though the only problem would be how big the hole in the case is. If it's big enough you should be fine. If not, just do what you do and play without the case. I seen some people do this, you would need to modify everything to make it comfortable though. Personally I think the sticks are fine. Its probably the thumb pad itself you don't like. THAT is easily replaceable, just carefully rip one off an x bone then carefully hot glue it to the top

How big are ds4 thumb sticks, pretty small right? If so. It can be done. Well the ds4 sticks would fit onto the steam Controller, but.vice versa? Maybe not.. the steam stick is small but is it that small? Idk. But they ARe third party like you said. So you should definitely try it and let us know. I'd try it but I don't have a DS. You ARE talking about the Nintendo ds right? Lol

Yes, it just pops off once the front cover is no longer holding it back.

I answered a question about replacing the stick over here.

My retail box didn't have one, then again my controller is from the first batch of those produced. I noticed a few differences between mine and theirs. I think they either got an earlu proto type or from a later more recent batch

Measured the pads. Both pads are 0 Ohm to GND.

Guess it's just to ground it then as the other guy said it's both on zero.

That IS what the steam Controller is. Actually the case.is superior to the x bone controller. Its handles bend in a way that makes it more comfortable. But the layout is essentially the same. Keep in mind this controller isn't really for fps games. Keep a keyboard and mouse for fps but the steam Controller is good for most anything else. I use it for third person shooters and turn based games.

You should still take it apart. Remove the chassis (plastic covering) and separate the innards including buttons and thumbtack. Anything can be easily soldered or snapped back. Don't risk getting pain on your PCB you will regret it. It should be fairly easy if you use the right paint. There is paint specifically for plastic. Get that, you can find it at any craft store. I'm doing the same soon, I scratched the original paint on accident during a removal procedure.

ATTENTION modders: this guide is perfect but has one is single flaw. It seems most stram controllers have hidden screws on the back panel. This guide doesn't mention they are hidden. But they are exactly where the guide says they are. When you open the panel it looks like they are not there. But you can feel them under the sticker. Cut a hole with a box cutter, its just really thick paper, and you will find the three screws. You can even feel em with your hand if you press down your finger hard enough, it will leave an indent where to cut. All the screws are size t6. They can be unlocked with torque 6 security screwdrivers.

It may be that the weight inside the haptic motor is improperly attached? Does this happen consistently or only when experiencing haptic feedback?

I’ve busted 2 LB’s playing Warframe (both out of warranty, of course) There is a plastic plate under the front cover, it has a left and right sort of tab that flexes when pushing the LB and RB. The LB pushes the tab the tab pushes the switch on the edge of the PCB. The thinner flex part of the tab is what breaks, it then rattles around inside.

Just for posteriority, this is what I just fixed on mine. It's just a small plastic-part with a thin bridge used as a spring-like, so an obvious breakpoint.

The other one was also already cracked. I just superglued them back now, seems to work, how long is the question though.

Otherwise I've seen there's also 3D-printing manuals on thingiverse, next time I will try printing them myself, maybe with a thicker bridge then..

I’ve busted 2 LB’s playing Warframe (both out of warranty, of course) There is a plastic plate under the front cover, it has a left and right sort of tab that flexes when pushing the LB and RB. The LB pushes the tab the tab pushes the switch on the edge of the PCB. The thinner flex part of the tab is what breaks, it then rattles around inside.

Just for posteriority, this is what I just fixed on mine. It's just a small plastic-part with a thin bridge used as a spring-like, so an obvious breakpoint.

The other one was also already cracked. I just superglued them back now, seems to work, how long is the question though.

Otherwise I've seen there's also 3D-printing manuals on thingiverse, next time I will try printing them myself, maybe with a thicker bridge then.

Just for posteriority, because I also forget to check it and had to figure our in hindsight.

The first seven are 6 small ones and a long one in the middle under the sticker.

The next four long ones are what holds the board to the upper part, two are at the top near the shoulder buttons on the inside, and the other two are left and right at the bottom, they are also part of the battery holding cases.

The rest are small ones, but I didn't remove the ones holding the touchpads so I can't say for sure.