简介
参考本指南以更换三星盖乐世S6的子板。该子板集成了听筒插座，LED软按键以及USB充电端口。如果你的手机遇到充电问题，或者是出现Aux端口不工作的情况，可以先尝试更换子板来解决问题。
本指南涉及到拆卸后部玻璃面板。拆卸后部玻璃面板需要去除将其固定的粘合剂。参考 本指南以重新安装后部玻璃面板。
工具
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把iOpener放在微波炉中间 。
I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.
By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.
Fredrik -
I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.
I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.
I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier
Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.
I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??
I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.
Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.
I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it
Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.
Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?
Regards,
Cedric
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加热iOpener三十秒
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贯穿整个维修过程，如果iOpener 冷却了，在微波炉中每次重新加热额外的三十秒。
May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.
yamayhuang - 回复
DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.
can i use just ordinary microwave???
If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?
I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.
There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(
If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own
I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.
30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.
60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.
I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.
K
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把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来，捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个避免碰到中心热的部分。
Yes, as does a heat gun.
I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.
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将iOpener放置在面板上约60秒以融化固定玻璃面板边缘的封胶。
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移动iOpener以加热剩余部分的面板，同样需要60秒。
are there any option out there that allows you to heat the adhesive outdoors without any power plug?
There's a star in the center of our solar system, you could try that.
the way we do it at Get it fixed cellphone repair calgary is with a heat gun, wich is way easier than this, make sure to wear some gloves and dont worry to use to much heat as long as you point just to the back of the phone, (the back panel is thick enough to protect the logic board from over heat) instead of the usual blue plastic piece i sugest to use the thinnest metal razor knife and a business card so you can insert the business card and move it all around the frame, those blue plastic things are way too thick that will break the glass panel if you apply to much pressure
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将吸盘紧紧吸在后部玻璃面板的下部。
If the rear screen is cracked/smashed, you will not be able to use a suction cup to remove it. The suction could would not seal because of the cracks. I tried masking tape, 3M shiny HVAC tape, and others, and the suction could would not seal to those surfaces either.
I ended up using the sharp point of the smudger to remove some shards of glass to get underneath the cover to leverage it up and out. Definitely use gloves and safety glasses if you have to do this.
dougpender - 回复
Thank you for your comment. I needed to see this particular instance of what to do when the back cover was cracked. I was going to try to suction it with tape covering it. This saved me some heartache. You're an angel!!
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当你打开一个够大的缝隙后，在后部玻璃面板和中框之间插入一个塑料撬片。
At this stage I didn’t use a plastic pick as I think they are too thick and will crack a screen that’s not already cracked. I used a stainless steel
I sesame blade which does a much better job of cutting through the adhesive. Just be careful not to insert it in too far. I sometimes put a mark on my blade to ensure it doesn’t go in too far.
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拉开后部面板，然后完全分离它们。
When I did my battery, the adhesive stayed almost 100% on the back glass and was still in good shape. What didn’t remain attached only lifted slightly and I was able to coax it back to its original location with tweezers. I didn’t bother to remove and replace the adhesive layer because mine was still good. I set the glass out of the way where it wouldn’t get dirt on the adhesive while I finished the battery swap. I added some additional heat (hair dryer) after reattaching the glass to make sure the adhesive made the best seal.
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卸下13个3.5毫米用来将中框固定在手机上的Phillips #00螺丝。
Make sure you do not mix up these thirteen screws with a hidden 14th screw under the mid-frame chassis, on the left side of the headphone port, on daughter-board. This 14th screw is shorter than the other screws, so make sure you do not replace it with one of the longer screws. It will push up against the front glass and lift it away from the adhesive.
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紧紧地抓住中框组件的边缘。
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向下推电池的同时抬起中框组件，以将其与手机的剩余部分分开。
FIRMLY GRASP IT! - Patrick
i suggest to apply heat on the corners of the front screen to lose the adhesive a lil bit and push from the bottom back of the phone right where the wireless charger is because of the charging port
When grabbing from the bottom, you fun the risk of damaging the charging port and headphone jack. I would suggest starting from the top. This is because the two ports at the bottom slide down into the frame. There is also adhesive that will give you a little resistance.
Step 18 is not correct, you have to start from the top. You can damage the charge port
On mine the adhesive actually tore away part of the colored film on the back of the screen glass rather than separating from it. I’m guessing applying heat to the screen corners first would help avoid this (I didn’t). https://imgur.com/a/V7vZQ
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抬起中框将其与手机的剩余部分分离。
what do the numbers ZF-N2 AS WELL AS (F13) AT THE END OF THE MODEL NUMBER, THEN THERE IS REV 5-1-C W G 15221............... WHAT ALL HAS TO MATCH WHEN REPLACING THE MID FRAME.
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在外壳和电池之间插入塑料撬片。
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将塑料撬片进一步推入以将电池与手机分开。
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如果电池被太牢固地粘住，无法将塑料片插入，请将加热的iOpener放在电池上来松开粘合剂。
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另外，在电池的每一个角落都涂上一些异丙醇，让它们作用几分钟，以溶解粘合剂。
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I used a trick from a different phone tear down, but it really helps, slip a length of dental floss under the top edge of the battery, then with a back and forth action of the floss, you can slice through the adhesive and easily remove the battery, worked great on this phone.
Dude that's awesome, wish someone would have mentioned this a long time ago. Battery removal can be a pain. Defiantly going to try that sometime soon!
Awesome. Thanks!!!
For me, the battery removal was probably as difficult. maybe more so than removing the back or mid-frame. The adhesive on the left side woudn’t let go and the plastic pick couldn’t reach the left-side adhesive to release it. I finally got it through perseverance though.
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把电池从手机中取出
Question!? If the screen is barley cracked at the coner, (2cm) of the phone, would it shatter thru this process!? Please let me know ASAP!?
Yes the UK version is very well glued in. I recommend using a flat metal spudger and pushing it in from the bottom right side and then continue doing the same working up. This method seems to be the safest and only takes a minute or two
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使用撬棒的尖端从主板的插座上断开蓝牙和Wi-Fi天线的线缆连接器。
This portion of the repair caused me problems after phone was closed up. The bluetooth cable on the left of the phone was not placed back into its cable track and was pinched off by screen once frame was placed in metal housing.
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将撬片以向上的角度插入手机电池侧边缘，框架和显示屏之间。
Totally agree with you guys, “hogdoctor” and “Buck”.
Yes, “you want these two to come off together” and “if you can see the pick through the glass STOP”.
As you can see in step 23 image #3 that is totally not good.
What you actually want to see if done right is on step 31.
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沿着手机的一侧划出一个开口，将电池的胶粘剂分开。
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在将粘合剂分离之后，将粘合剂留在显示器的侧面，以防止AMOLED屏幕重新粘附到框架上。
I found that I could not free the black sticker digitizer in the middle without damaging the digitizer see fig 39. I don’t know if the UK Samsung is glued better? but its very stuck to the frame, be very very careful to separate the pink and black digitizer, they are very expensive, I wish I dug deeper on the internet first, this step could take 30+ mins to do
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使用撬片轻轻撬开框架的电池侧边，远离AMOLED屏幕。
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如果显示器和框架不容易分离，使用撬片切割所有剩余胶粘剂。如果切割困难，重新加热并重新应用iOpener。
This should really be pointed out more than it is. I've gone through a few phones by destroying the IC. Of course if you're doing the repair without instructions it's no ones fault but your own. (guilty) But... This warning should be in BOLD and CAPPED with blinking lights and arrows.
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从框架上除去所有痕量的胶水和玻璃后，用90%（或更高）异丙醇和无绒布或咖啡过滤器清洁粘合区域。只于一个方向上滑动，不要来回移动。
Great guide. My goal is to disable my left sofy key. I have done this with software fixes but due to a short somewhere and possibly some water damage the button hits it self continuously causing the phone to run slow even though I used an app to tell it to take no action when the button is hit. Looks like step 42 I should disconnect/break the connection.
If anyone knows an easier way please advise.
C'etait extrêmement difficile pour ma part.
It was extremely difficult for me.
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请按逆序重装你的设备。若要重新组装后部玻璃面板，参考重新安装后部玻璃面板粘合剂指南。
请按逆序重装你的设备。若要重新组装后部玻璃面板，参考重新安装后部玻璃面板粘合剂指南。
76等其他人完成本指南。
25条评论
Step 41
I could not find any led cables... after the repair the led soft keys work and vibrate but do not light up... anyway to fix this problem? Fixing g925a
It seems like you've damaged the Flex oder the Button itself. If youve allready checked the connection to Motherboard, then you need to replace the Daughterboard to solve the issue
Patrick -
For step 41
I could not find and led cables to remove... and after there repair the led light forsaken the soft keys do not light up but they do work and vibrate... what should I do?
Hello, I replaced the "daughter board" thinking it would fix my microphone issue but it did not. I tried restoring the phone and still nothing. I have no water damage. Does anyone have any suggestions? Please help.
Often times you can fix mic. issues by turning off noise cancellation in the settings. Especially if you sound like you are in a tunnel or there is a lot of echo.
It could be incompatible. There are about 10 different charging ports made for this Galaxy s6 and its variations. If the wrong one from the wrong network is put in sometimes cables don't reach and additional problems due to a mismatch may occur.
The void spaces in the device's frame allow the correct board and board components to fit. Correctly matched parts allow the mother/daughter board to fit flat (as designed) and go back together once you are done replacing parts. If a mic does not match up to it's hole through the frame, you might block sound. Look at the frame to the right of the charging port while the screen is face up. If that hole is clogged it should be cleaned. If the sound quality improves, than I would probably consider opening it up to clean the inside of the frame and the mic.
One more thing. A microphone actually. With your phone's back side down, viewing from the top, there is a microphone hole just to the left of the infrared blaster. I do believe this one is attached to the motherboard.
Doing it this way is terrible, and for the most part worthless, unless the screen is already damaged.
The only safe way to replace the charging port is to desolder it and resolder a new one on. Otherwise...
What? I bought a board for £6 on eBay and fitted no issue. Have you soldered a plug on? Good luck!
derek -
I have carried out the repair and the phone is now chargeing shown by the led's at the top of the screen however the LCD is not powering on and the phone does not vibrate when I hold down the button any help would be appreciated
I have a problem where when i connect the charger to my phone (Samsung galaxy s6) and it does not charge my phone, I don't think my charger or my cable have problem because I had try to connect to other gadget and its charging, my question is ,is it my phone has a problem at charging daughter board or the problem is at the other place like maybe I should change the charger or somethg.
If charging port not working then you can get an induction charger and charge it wirelessly. This has worked for my son's phone with no problems.
I just started having this problem as well. A newly purchased induction charger is also not charging the battery. The Qi pad seems to detect that the phone is placed on top, but the phone does not register any charge. Also, the USB charge cable sometimes is detected for a few seconds and charge is briefly indicated, then the phone no longer recognizes the cable or the charger.
Well, when removing the display assembly, it turned out I first removed only the glass, and after attempting to remove the LCD, I broke it. Word of caution - the LCD is very fragile - it breaks even with a very light bend.
but what if it breaks it
what if it breaks the phone?
Unless your very lucky, you will break your screen if you do this that way. Do this only if you replace your screen too!
My phone is not charging but overheating is this the problem with the daugther board??
Marko Shen - 回复
CAUTION: Don’t do this repair unless you really can’t use the phone. Removing the display to replace the charger port is tantamount to madness . The display very likely to get damaged. I did this all very carefully and came out with half a dead digitizer (touch screen) . You can easily destroy the display, and the LED sensor backlights are delicate to place. You’ll need to buy a new front glue film stencil because you aren’t replacing with a new screen. I would much rather have lived with the charging problem than with a dead screen. A huge problem with the above method is guaranteeing you are separating the right layer - When I inserted the pick at the first point, it came through underneath the black insulation film stuck to the screen. https://youtu.be/Ghh_CQnh_yk tells you how to avoid this. Many other videos such as https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnQFtcTj... show you can try re-soldering the USB port without messing with the screen.
Also, since every s6 repair starts with “remove the back glass” it should be much more widely stated: Removing the back glass will damage it! At the very least, your entry point is likely to chip some paint off near the edge. Sliding even a thin plastic wedge will do this. The paint separates easily from the glass - either due to aging or the heat you just applied! Unless you have the right heating equipment with temp control and know exactly what you are doing - and even then I doubt it will be perfect. The videos don’t show up the small chips. You could live with the damage, if its minor, but your phone won’t be perfect . In my case the pain came off in great sheets, so I scraped it all off and had a transparent back! Just take the hit and get a new back glass and glue stencil along with your replacement parts. Same applies to the paint on the edges of the front (LCD) panel - and there the solution of getting a new one is not an option (unless its broken).
I carried out the repair successfully partially following this guide. I am an experienced technician and have carried out several similar repairs. I have damaged the screen only on one occasion. I usually do not remove the lcd completely but only de-glue/separate the bottom part of the screen from the frame to make enough room to remove the daughterboard flexes (soft buttons). A safer way to separate the screen is use a thin laminated playing card and insert it gently, after applying heat, in between the frame and LCD assembly from the back of the LCD instead of using a pick.
