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Drivers side window,power door locks wont work

Hard to start yesterday,drivers side window,power door locks wont work,either by buttons on both doors or on key fob.Other windows work! Replaced Battery checked door lock fuse,still no drivers side window or door locks.

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I have the same problem. it occured about 6 months ago and I took the fuses out and they were all good, but the next day it started working. I have the problem again and so far haven't figured it out.

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i have the same problem and it works some daysand dont work other days.

ds window dont work and pdl dont work

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Im having the same problem on my nissan altima 2007 , power windows don't work (all doors) power locks dont work (all doors) the blinkers dont work , hazard lights do work, i re placed the bcm relay and the power locks work and blinkers not the windows but after a day the relay burns

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what I have found on three different models is cracked solder joints on the window circuit boards.

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Hi my door lock button does not work at all.i can't lock The doors by the button

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The most likely cause of your problem is the master switch in the drivers door. The windows and the locks are on two separate circuits. The only part that these two have in common is the master switch.

Of course it is also possible that the wiring harness between the driver side door and cowl is corroded and that some of the pins are to corroded or even broken off and do not make contact. Also check that you have good and tight positive and negative battery cable connection to the battery posts. Wiggle the cables a bit. If it still does not work, pull out and put back fuse #8 and circuit breaker/relay #68. Try wiggling relay #68 it might just not make good contact or is stuck.

Pulling the fuse or breaker cuts the power and resets the circuit. Good Luck and let us know how it is going.

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+ I would go here if the reset fails.

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Does this also apply to a 2006???

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I still love my H3.

If you have tried all the methods here and nothing seem to work just chill.

1.Change your H3 battery terminals if you still have the

factory one. The factory battery terminals don't get good contacts and get corrode.

2. Remove the master switch from the driver door Side Panel.

3. Get the four screws out and slowly ply open the master switch. 4. Clean the upper circuit board with light acohol wipe. Look for brownish spots.

5.use a hand dryer about 1ft away to dry the board. On low speed.

6. Assembly everything back together and plug it back into the driver side.

7.start your car few mins and row down driver side window. Drive off and everything will work normal again.

8. Enjoy your H3

Ekow

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Thanks you guys, you all just saved me 200 plus dollars

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Am so &&^&^$^ happy I wish I could buy you lunch

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This is easy stuff

Forget fuses ..forget switchs

This will cost You nothing!

Was your battery Low or dead before this Happen?

Here is What you have to do.

Disconnect your battery..Just the positve cable(red)

Important part.....leave it off for 15 minutes before you put cable back on

everything will reboot properly

Take care

Bobby

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I thought that I heard this hear before but you disconnect the battery terminals and hold them together for 15 or more minutes then reconnect them. This has worked for me before but again I am having the problem and it's not working . Need help fixing it.

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So was replacing 3 of 4 blown out Speakers and left key on on last one opps dead battery.... After jump start no Driver window or Pwr locks.. recharged battery and Pulled driver door apart again rechecked everything, did the fuse check..all good still no locks or window... Went on the old interweb found this page and did the Pwr cable thing for 30min. took a 5 mile drive and when I got back and put in park bam door locks working and Driver window.. I love the H3 but I've had so many electrical problems with it (heater/AC blower, 3 speakers, harness for trailer, TPM sensor, head and tail light issues every 6 months) I think im done with GM

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Fantastic! Did just like you said and my locks are working again! Thanks!!

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I just did this and now everything works. This post should be at the top.

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I have to agree with Bobby from above. This happened to me, checked all fuses, #8 on my truck, obviously I know its just my drivers side window and locks, but thought i'd check it anyway.

THEN, pulled the Positive cable off battery for 5 minutes.... BINGO. everything works now.

Good Luck!

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I removed control panel on the drivers door with the switches for locks and windows. took it in the house thinking that there was maybe a condensation/corrosion problem. first thing I did was put the wives hair dryer on it and after a few seconds heard a couple of clicks which I think where stuck internal buttons underneath the push/pull switches. went and hooked it up, perfect no problem.

Prior to this I tried everything, resetting, unhooking battery, fuses, unplugging/plugging back in, checked wires in door jam, the only thing I didn't get to was the the transmission shifter switch which was next on the list.

hope this works for someone. nb put the hair dryer on the hottest setting

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After disconnecting the battery, touching the terminals and checking the fuses with no luck, I tried this suggestion and it worked! I removed the unit from the door panel and removed the circuit board from its housing. After about 30 seconds of hair blower heat I heard a click. I reinstalled and my windows and locks worked once again. My issue started with a dead battery, so I don't know why this worked, but it did. Thanks Duane for your input!

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I am actually blown away by this, I didn't think would work, but brought the whole housing unit inside from my 06 H3 and used the hair dryer for a few minutes, took it back out and plugged it and it works again!

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I recently had the problem with the driver window and power locks not working. Happened after battery died. Tried everything-unhooked cables for 45 minutes, clicked them together, replaced battery, checked lock default options, unplugged control unit, checked connections and wiring. Still nothing. Finally tried taking it apart, making sure the connections were alright and buttons worked, then heated it with a heat gun for a few minutes. Didn't hear any popping noises but once I put it back together and back in...IT WORKED!!! Didn't expect it to...but it did. Amazing. Saves a lot of money I would have had to pay to get it fixed. ;)

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this lead me to fixing the prob dont need hairdryer though just shunt the capacitors on the board then put back in done

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After battery went dead on my H3 (dash cam drained it), driver's window and door locks were inop after I re-charged the batt. Checked fuse #8 and relay 68. Both were good. Popped out driver's door switch assembly (used thin screw driver on forward and rear edges-- clips are in those locations). Removed blue and white wire harnesses and heated switch assembly with a hair dryer for a few minutes. Heard two loud clicks. Reassembled harnesses, turned key on and all systems were operational.

Thanks Duane Jordan for the good info!!

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I would first try resetting the locking options:

With the engine off, turn the key to LOCK. Do not remove the key from the ignition.

Press and hold the power door lock button until the DIC display shows the current door lock mode.

To view the next available mode, press and hold the reset stem until the mode appears. Release the reset stem and press and hold again to view the next mode.

Once the desired mode is shown on the DIC display, briefly press the reset stem to set your choice. The DIC display then clears.

The following are the available modes:

Lock 1 (default): On vehicles with an automatic transmission, this mode locks all of the doors when the vehicle is shifted out of PARK (P) and unlocks all of the doors when the vehicle is shifted into PARK (P). On vehicles with a manual transmission, this mode locks all of the doors when the vehicle speed is greater than 15 mph (24 km/h) and unlocks all of the doors when the key is removed from the ignition.

Lock 2: On vehicles with an automatic transmission, this mode locks all of the doors when the vehicle is shifted out of PARK (P) and unlocks the driver's door when the vehicle is shifted into PARK (P). On vehicles with a manual transmission, this mode locks all of the doors when the vehicle speed is greater than 15 mph (24 km/h) and unlocks the driver's door when the key is removed from the ignition.

Lock 3: On vehicles with an automatic transmission, this mode locks all of the doors when the vehicle is shifted out of PARK (P). The doors will not automatically unlock. On vehicles with a manual transmission, this mode locks all of the doors when the vehicle speed is greater than 15 mph (24 km/h). The doors will not automatically unlock.

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+ very concise and informative. But what about the window :-) ?

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Well my answer doesn't cover the window, ego, mine is most likely wrong ;-)

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but this is an easier check and a great start to make sure one does not have more than one problem. ;-)

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Hi fellow H3 owners,

this window problem just happened to me, It all started with doing a brake job, new calipers, rotors and . While I was working on the truck, I left the radio on and listened to my favorite music, for about a hour, . After finishing job I was ready to go for a test ride,.

The driver side window was stuck down, and all door locks would not work, all the other windows went up and down as they should, but still no drivers window, or door locks,! I checked all fuses, even #68 relay but still could not find problem, I drove 18 miles in 30 degree weather at nite, got home and was very confused with this truck.! The next day I took master control unit out of door disconnected all wires, cleaned pins etc, and put back together, also I took off positive and negative battery cables off battery, cleaned them , put them back on and tightened good, Well , I turned the key and everything worked,??? all good. windows worked, door locks worked, very happy with out come.

I went to dealer as this still did not make any sense to me, he told me that when the battery starts to get low in voltage the computers will sense some thing wrong and will start shutting down non-essential items in truck, drivers window and locks first, then other things like turn signals, driving lights, heater motor,!!! Man this truck has had me pulling my hair out, But still love my H3.

I hope this short story will help someone else who might have same trouble.

My girl friend has a H3 also, now I need to tackle her problem, no heater motor, no heat or AC. what next. I had this problem on mine so I know what it is, still a pain, and all computer related . Good luck all and good nite.

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Hi all,

I have the fix.

I know this is about 4 year later :) but I came across this issue today with my H3 and found this thread while searching for solutions.

After trying a few of the solutions mentioned here my Dad and I decided to just take the door panel off.

Here is a video of the fix https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uekl62gG...

Hope this helps anyone who finds this thread now.

K

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tryed ever thing this is the only one that work

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As a long time master mechanic, I really have to advise against removing the positive cable-always remove the negative cable from the battery. There is always a chance of damage when removing the positive, for instance if your wrench contacts any grounded metal of the car (which is just about everything) the result may be “just a spark” to you, but could easily destroy any circuits in the car. Hit the same metal removing a negative cable and nothing will happen. Be careful out there!

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same problem, it was the rubber mat between the power window button and the receiver / cct board in the driver control panel for me.

one day i had no power locks or driver window? weird. i checked everything! did every kind of cable pull off the battery, asked mechanics?

I pulled the control panel out and put it back together, then with dielectric grease on the plugs and the fuses were good.? i thought it was the fob so i messed with that for a while, changed modes.

then pulled panel out again and brought it inside and was looking at how it works and noticed the rubber mat was sort of flapping a bit at one end. i pulled it right off and had a look. because the mat wasn't on properly the window and button relays were missing their target. put it back securely and put it all back together, put it back in the car and bam!! working!

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The solution is to ensure a few actions are completed:

- A fully charged battery (even a new battery may need a top off charge)

- clean battery terminals with an abrasive pad or sandpaper& grease the battery terminals

- check and change the fuses for the drivers window and power locks (#8 & #68)

- disconnect both positive and negative battery terminal leads for at least an hour to reset the computer

- drive the vehicle with several stops to restart the engine several times

I read all of the other advice and tips around this issue and had to complete all of the above to resolve my exact same issue after replacing a dead battery. Problem was finally corrected after a driving around for several errands and restarting the vehicle about 4 times over a 5 hour period.

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Did all of the above 3 times on my 07. Finally I pulled the door switch and took it apart ( 4 screws ) cleaned the contacts and re assembled. ( all very easy. Just be careful when taking it apart ) Now I don't know if it was the cleaning of the switch or the new battery ( the old one had good power but was 6 yrs old so I figured what the heck ) Either way the only thing I did differently with the battery on my 3rd attempt was to leave it disconnected longer, appox 45 mins while I ate dinner. When I went back and connected it, everything worked. Thanks to all the posters for your assistance. Great info and it saved my cheap !@# a trip to the dealer. :)

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Removed switch from door removed 3 screws on bottom of switch took completely apart removed plastic pins and cleaned out with can of air and windows works and so does power locks. Easy fix

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I Have had this problem before and if you have any aftermarket remote car start it scrambles the bcd (body control module) and whenever you disconnect the battery it will do this also as it causes the computer to get confused and stuck in between modes eventually the car will go back to normal its just a matter of time

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Thank you for info. Driver power window and door locks lost signal. Removed Pos and Neg battery connections waited 5 minutes hooked battery back up problem solved.

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same problem, took the master switch out used a transmission magnet on the 3 relays swiping the magnet back and forth. put back together it works now. problem weak relays

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the ground harness from battery to motor was loose

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H3 left a door open over night ran battery down, boosted and then the problem with the driver door and power locks started. Was told when battery goes low it sets off the problem just need to reset it by unplugging the battery for 5min. Give it time it does reset! Not worth being told you need a new switch $250.00 :) hope it helps!

2014

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Update it’s been few years and we installed a radio system and remote start it did it all over again just waited few days and it reset, it is now working fine! 2019 update

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The first fix to try when ever any part of your window and door control panel or any electrical function for that matter does not work or is not working correctly is to disconnect the negitive battery cable, that's the non hot side. Leave the hot side connected. By leaving the negative cable disconnected over night the computers will reset and solve a lot of electrical issues. If nothing else this give you a potential very easy fix and has worked for me on many make of cars and trucks.

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Had the same issue (drivers door lock and power window not working) and I read all of the solutions posted. I did get it resolved doing the following;

-make sure the battery is fully charged, no corrosion on the battery post or leads

-check the fuse, replace if blown

-drive the car for at least an hour with multiple stops turning the car off for several minutes

Driving the car, stopping and waiting for several minutes and shifting the gear lever in and out of gear along with a fully carged battery will solve it most of the time. If not, then it may be the switch indicated in the other postings.

My solution took about 2 days as I repeated all steps (except the driving & stopping). Think the combined action of charging the battery and the driving soved it because all was well about 3 hours after driving around doing errands.

Good luck

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Just happened to me. I took master panel out and unplugged everything and put it back together. It works fine. My battery was a little low so I think this is wht set it off. I love my h3 but it sure has some strange design flaws.

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I had the same problem as listed above: The driver door window and locks stopped working out of nowhere. I printed the solutions and gave them to my husband. He found that one battery terminal was slightly loose - not much - and there was slight corrosion on the terminal post as well. He disconnected the battery terminals, cleaned the posts, left them disconnected for about 20 minutes, put them back on and TA DA...works like new. Boy, I sure am glad I didn't take this issue to a mechanic; no telling what the charge would have been.

Thank you for taking time to post your solutions to these problems; it sure does help!!

Barbara

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I had this problem on and off for a few months. On the master board are three relays. I ordered them at mouser.com for less than $13 including shipping. I replaced them and it hasn't happened since.

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take the control panel out of door, remove the four screws holding it together,pull out the board,locate the capacitors and shunt them they hold power and mess things up for some reason, then put back together. only thing that helped me tried the battery cable thing didnt work colarados have the same prob as well hope this helps someone

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It sound like the motor to the window is dead.

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Why would the motor to the power window stop the power door locks from working ;-) ?

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Hey guys,

Try this. There is a grey clip where the all wires enter your drivers door. Make sure the clip is facing down. Again had the same window/door lock issue even after my initial fix and my radio speakers would stop working interm and this resolved both issues.

Good luck.

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this is not a mater of door locks or window, this is more like security has locked everything but no alarm sound. any comments?

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this is not a mater of door locks or window, this is more like security has locked everything but no alarm sound. any comments? Can we forget plan A, and go to plan B. The whole car is shut down?

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My battery went dead and when it was charged none of the door locks would work in the H3 or even the remote. Also every window would roll down except for the drivers side. I read that when the battery gets weak then the computer shuts down nonessential electronics based on importance. Simple fix is to take the positive lead off your batter for about 30 mins or so and reconnect...get in and fire it up and it all worked back to 100% Set your clock and back to factory setting. Taking the battery lead off resets everything! I did this today and all is well!! good luck!

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After reading all the resolutions and ideas, I had my husband print this out and he took apart the control panel, cleaned it well - did use the blow dryer (LOL), and once he put it back together - the driver window now works as do the power locks! I'm so happy. Three weeks without all that was very frustrating to say the least. Thanks to all who took the time to post all the ideas and problems.

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Hi Guys,

i found the switchboard of the fuse is faulty as not function very well I was thinking either ECM or BCM but it was the fuse board due short in the circuit

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Had the window and lock problem happen a couple weeks ago. First thing I did before finding this thread was replace the door switch with aftermarket via Walmart. Everything worked but the drivers window. Today I tried most of these ideas; after pulling the pos cable and waiting a bit the window went down but would not go up. I retried most ideas and got it to go up..and down. I closed everything up and drove into the garage and tried to lower it...no luck. Not sure what to do. Maybe the driving around until it fixes itself post is all I have left.

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When you open the driver door, in the hinge, there’s rubber around a bunch of wires. I took that rubber off in five wires were getting pinched and they were cut. From the door wire harness so I’m in the process of soldering them back together. Plus, I did go to the junkyard and got two different switches because somebody stole the one the original one I had.

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