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Repair and disassembly guides for food cooling appliances including refrigerators, freezers and fridge-freezers.

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Whirlpool Refrigerator Interior Lights Flickering

My Whirlpool WRS322FDAW01 is just over a year old and all of a sudden the interior lights on both the fridge side and the freezer side are strobing when the door is open. From what I've gathered the lights are LED and may have to be replaced in their entirety. Not sure. Please help!

Also, all of the lights on both sides of the fridge are in sync regarding the strobe effect. I'd even be ok with just shutting them off completely instead of the strobe. Any help will be much appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

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Same thing happening to my, Model # WRS322FNAM00, side-by-side Whirlpool Refrigerator.

2 LED lights on the Fridge Side, and 1 LED light on the freezer side.

At night I am blinded if I don't turn on the kitchen lights.

Any help out there for this?

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We have had this same issue, we've changed out the module and the light switch and the lights are still blinking

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Should we talk about a class action law suit?

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I am having the same issue it stop after opening and closing the doors but after two days thesame issue. Since more than a week no change.

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I am having the same issue. since all the modules act the same way I believe that it is an issue with the controller.

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I think this will answer your question:

First see if it's covered under warranty, this is a factory defective part.

http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/...

Here's the part: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlp...

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If both LEDs are flashing do both modules need to be replaced? It would be odd that both failed at the same time. That is why I would think this is a common (to both lights) power supply issue.

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If it is a factory defect, the part should gbe recalled and the company should repair it.

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I agree I have the same problem, it should be recalled, this doesn't look good for whirlpool as a leader in appliance"

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I pulled the power plug out and plugged it back in.....Problem Solved

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Where is the module located? My lights started flickering right after the warranty period. Model WRS322FDAM00

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Owner's of similar model Maytag and Kenmore Refrigerators have reported the exact same issue!

There are 3x LED Lights or "Modules" located in these side-by-side style refrigerators

> 2 in the Fridge side and 1 in the Freezer

The problem (defective) LED light module is on the fridge side, located at the top. This LED module is designed with a built in dimmer! That single dimmer controls all 3 lights in your fridge. As the dimmer begins to fail, that causes the flashing, strobing, studio 54 in your kitchen effect.

Some owners have had "short-term" success by detaching the LED module, unplugging the 2 wires, and plugging it back in. This is a short-term solution, but worth the try first round!

Makes sure to order the latest model LED module if you replace it! Some sights are selling the original part for less...enjoy that headache in another 2 years, no thank you!

Crying shame they designed the original part w/ a dimmer, know it's an issue but don't own up to it w/ their customers, and then charge $188+ for replacement part (small strip of LED lights... w/ a dimmer)

See link in previous answer for the exact replacement LED module

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So how do I get it out, and what is the replacement part #?

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That's more than $200 for a light. Is there another source? That's crazy talk for an fing bulb

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Replacement part # WPW10515058

Order online at http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlp...

Agree, but this is the only solution at this time!

Some have just unplugged the light and have chosen to go without...

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Removing the LED Module - it can be a little stubborn to remove! Use a flat head screwdriver to depress the 2x plastic tabs located a half an inch in from both side facing you. There are 2x additional plastic tabs on the backside about 1 inch in from both sides. Once you drop the front the back should follow by hand. Next remove the 2 connectors. That's it!

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Thanks Brother! I thought so but I didn't want to break anything.

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I can’t possibly stress enough how easy it is to unscrew the unit from the fridge side, unplug and replug it back in. Usually solves the problem in five minutes.

PLEASE AT LEAST TRY THIS BEFORE SPENDING MONEY.

Update (02/17/2018)

Please Read!

I wish everyone would read through the answers. It's an incredibly easy fix- almost anyone can do it.

There's condensation in your fridge which creates corrosion at the connection.

Take your light housing off on the fridge side (it controls both sides.) It's pressure fit, squeeze it or use a screwdriver to pull it down. If theres any screws that need removing do so to remove the back cover. Pull the connector out and put in back in 3-5 times.

Your problem should be fixed. Put it all back together in reverse.

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I combined this strategy with the one below, using the electrical contact spray. I taped the "on" button down with tape so there wasn't current when I was working. Lights stopped flickering after doing this. Will report back on longer term results.

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This solution failed for me by one hour later. Lights flickering again.

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Thanks Marshall for the advice. Keeping my fingers crossed it continues to work.

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I tried all the above it kept failing after a few minutes. Decided to replace the kit as a whole about $240, this seems to be the lasting solution, hopedully will use this for anothee year, honestly would not recommend buying this model or whirlpool crap.

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Thank you Marshall! You just saved me $240. I first removed and reconnected the connection, 4 times, for the 2 LED lights in my Whirlpool refrigerator (only 5-years old). No luck. Then I did the same thing for the 1 light in the freezer. Presto! It stopped strobing and went to a steady light. After I started loading the freezer back up again though... it started again... so I repeated the process on the freezer light. It took several attempts and me tugging and pushing down the wires in the connector, but it started working again. I read above someone used "electrical contact spray" (never heard of that) to keep the connection solid. I guess that will be my next step if it keeps wiggling loose. ... My wife and I have been putting up with this stupid strobing for over a month... as we are presently in this crazy coronavirus lockdown. We both feel our lives just got a whole lot better without worrying about getting some epileptic seizure every time we we got some milk! LOL

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My two LED lights on the Refrigerator side went dim, and the one freezer light totally stopped working on Model WRS 325FDAM04. I popped the top Refrig LED Module out, snapped the TWO plugs out and checked looked the LED Module over thoroughly - nothing out of the ordinary, so I put it back in - still both refrigerator lights dim and the freezer module LED still not working. I then removed the Freezer LED Module (which is a pain as it’s further back in the freezer). As I was removing the ONE plug for the freezer module, the Freezer LED started to go on and off (full brightness) and the Refrigerator Lights would illuminate to full brightness as well in unison with the Freezer light doing so. Problem is the freezer light would NOT stay on as I snapped its plug back in place, so I don’t know if it’s a wiring problem or a Module problem. I jiggled the Freezer Module and its plug and wiring many times and BOTH lights would go on and off momentarily (full brightness) but the Freezer light ultimately remained off and the Refrigerator light remained dim, so I just popped the plug back in, snapped the Module back into place, and I’m resigned to no light in the freezer and dim lights in the Refrigerator. I don’t think its worth paying the cost of a new freezer LED Module even if it’s just the module itself (and what if it ISN’T the Module - can I get my money back - and then what am I to do)? The wiring (which is VERY short on the Freezer module as compared to the Refrigerator Module would be a nightmare for the average non-tech person to try and replace (and/or the plug). It would be better for all concerned if these lights were just the small incandescent appliance bulbs always used in the past - you just unscrew and replace them when they go out. Until and unless Whirlpool addresses and fixes this problem, I will NOT purchase any future Whirlpool Products, nor will I recommend anyone else purchase their products. The idea behind LED lighting is lifespan and efficiency. Well, those of us having this problem are certainly not reaping these benefits ! Bottom line is this should NOT be happening on a Refrigerator that is only 15 months old ! Something is WRONG and Whirlpool needs to address this !! .

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having same issue, they need to just use regular light bulbs and forget this new LED garbage, my fridge is only 16 months old, this is absurd!

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I have the same model and it is 18 months old. I agree we should not be having these problems, and Whirlpool should go back to the regular appliance light bulbs that screw in and are easily replaced if ever they burn out. My last Kenmore (made by Whirlpool) refrigerator was 20 years old, and had the

screw in bulbs, and I may have replaced the freezer bulb once and the refrigerator bulb twice in 20 years.

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My fridge side flickers and freezer side completely out in less than a year

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Just started having same problem with model only 17 months old. Ridiculous. And we've replaced stove light on Whirlpool oven if same age three times. Whirlpool should correct these issues. Won't purchase or recommend this product.

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Well I should feel fortunate mine made it 2.5 years before they had this happen...today. Both refrigerator lights dim and freezer out. Terrible and the cost of the modules is nearly the cost of the refrigerator.

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I think the reason the lights fail is because it accumulates moisture in the circuitry as someone mentioned. And of course, this takes about 15 months to occur so you are out of the warranty period.

In my case, the light failed after 15 months. Luckily, I had it covered though the credit card. I got it replaced and I kept the “broken” light. The replacement lasted 13 months before the flickering again. I then switched out the replacement with the “broken" light. The “broken" light works fine without flickering. My guess is that the light dried out when I left it in storage. I will see how longer it last before flickering agin.

Update (08/18/2019)

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I think you are correct as everyone here mentioned it happens right after a year and warranty is up. Wished we could replace with just a regular bulb like the older refrigerators had..

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I want a fridge with 3 40 watt bulbs so bad right now.

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[image|1829467][image|1829466]

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Your problem is with R15 on the board. Just re-solder it and problem will be solved!

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DJAB is correct but it could be either of the two resistors there.

the circuit they are on is for dc conversion, but they get corroded and fail.

when they fail one or both become short to ground not allowing current to be present during the "off" cycle of ac current.

the short term fix: Remove the shorted resistor.

the long term fix: replace both and all other components on the board then coat it properly to prevent the same failure.

it would be nice if there were a kit for this repair because while djab and myself have come across r15 failure, any component on these boards is at risk due to the horrible and irregular coating applied to them.

there are only a few components on the board so a kit for this with a proper coating agent wouldn't cost anywhere near the cost of a replacement module

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Even easier, just duct tape the freezer and refrig light buttons flat. My worthless out of warranty Elite Sears kitchen appliances are about the worst junkers I ever bought. The matching dishwasher is a nightmare, poorly installed and the door flies downward at breakneck speed trying to break my shins. I would shoot myself in the head before ever buying anything again from Sears. Lowes for me next house.

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My appliances were purchased at an appliance store not Sears so it isn't just Sears. They make appliances now days where they are just basically throw aways, not like the appliances we got back in the day that lasted ten years or more.. They fix them where they don't last the customer so they can sale more appliances.

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Having the same problem with lights flickering. Called them today and they say they have no reports of this being an issue. I guess I should send them the link to this thread.

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they just. don't, give, a, %#*@!

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I had the same problem and upon inspecting the board I discovered R15 on the board was totally corroded and as soon I tried cleaning it, it came right off the board. I was able to remove it, clean it and solder it back on. Problem was solved immediately. So inspeat your board and if you have soldering skills you can repair it yourself.

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What board? Where is board.I don't have a tool to solder it?t

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The board is part of the led (main light) or the right side of the fridge. It comes right off. Open fridge and use flathead to release the tabs holding it. Then disconnect the two cables attached to it. Inspect R15 and R17 for any rust. If you can have a local repair shop solder it cheap it heats having to buy a new one. If you can't just order another online.

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Thank you DJ AB! What resistor value is R15, or can you read the code on it. I plan to replace it as mine is burned off the board. R17 is 910 which is 91 ohm +/-5%.

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My board had same problem R15 burned out .I can fix it ,but I donot know the value of R15. Somebody can tell me? thanks

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i belive r15 is the same as r17

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Pulled light out and wiggled the wires on the back fixed the problem must have been a loose connection

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I did this for a while until the part broke from being wiggled too many times. I even tried to solder it back together. Our frig was manufactured in 2014 and the part seems to have been made in 2010 ? Could that be right?

My husband is a paralyzed veteran, I try to fix as many things around the house as I can. It's frustrating when a part costs so much to replace when it was clearly defective in the first place. We put a lot of thought into purchasing this frig because it works well for someone in a wheelchair. (Not if you can't view the contents in the dark) Bummer. :-(

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Mine worked for 2 1/2 yrs. It is now dim. Why do Whirlpool make this kind of lights that cost am arm and a leg? I will not purchase Whirlpool with led module anymore. They should fix this problem if it is less than 5 yrs old.

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Lights on both refrigerator and freezer were flashing. Disconnected from wall for 3 minutes and plugged back in and nothing. It was still flickering. Disconnected again, pulled the light unit from the refrigerator side by pushing the 2 front tabs with screwdrivers and pulled the light fixture. I disconnected the two connectors and blew air on them. Plugged them back, after 6 minutes plugged fridge back. It worked, lights are back on but, for how long? Easy fix for now.

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The problem is with R15 chip on the board. Just re-solder it or have someone with soldering skills do it and problem will be solved!

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So I have a Maytag fridge with the same light module. It is out of warranted a d not a recall even though this part is obviously defective. However after doing some research it seems to be a result of poor soldering on the board which cracks and certain resisters and the switch on J2 of the board become disconnected. I reflowed the board using a standard heat gun on normal. Used it on board on the soldered side (side with LED squares) held heat gun about 1" away and moved the gun quickly over connections for about 40 seconds. It takes a temp of close to 400 degrees to flow solder again. Let it cool and viola no more problems and saved 89 to 149 bucks. Do this first before u buy. Btw this is the main light module W10515058 LED Light. Remember to put board on a work table or similar do not hold it while using heat gun and allow to cool before picking up.

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Thank You John!! We tried several times to get it to work. My son fixed mine as you recommended! It works and no issues for 2 full days here! Happy camper here

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No costs either!!

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anyone tried using a good quality find tip soldering iron to reflow the solder joints? I have a Hakko with fine tip. Even the small components seems big enough with a fine tip iron

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Buy a can of electronic contact cleaner. Pull the light in the main cabin down. Disconnect the power supply. Undo both leads. Spray well both leads and the two connectors. Let completely dry. Reconnect. Plug in. Solved. You do not need new lights.

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I combined this strategy with the one suggesting to plug and unplug the contacts a few times. I taped the "on" button down with tape so there wasn't current when I was working. Careful unplugging the contacts! There is a little locking tab behind each contact. Depress the tab and the contact separates from the board easily. Lights stopped flickering after doing this. Will report back on longer term results. By the way, this strategy explains one other person's post where they went to all the trouble to replace the main board and their lights still flicker! Clean the contacts first!

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This solution failed for me by one hour later. Lights flickering again.

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HAVE YOU found a permanent solution yet?

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I pulled the light out and think it may not be the problem with the light but maybe the button that is attached to the frame instead.

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The problem is with R15 chip on the board. Just re-solder it or have someone with soldering skills do it and problem will be solved!

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Same strobe problem with my relatively new Kenmore. If under warrantee, have them fix. If not, you may be able to fix easily with above suggestions which all have to do with fixing the electrical connection to your light assembly (the main one). My biggest problem was detaching the light assembly.

You have a light assembly in the freezer and two in the main compartment, only the top one in main is important. Removing it was the hardest part for me: this link helped:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCY2iaOF...

Still, neither a screwdriver nor a putty knife (nor other tools) helped (I was somewhat timid). I happened to have pliers that would open over 2 inches - using them made it easy. The first time, you may have to orient over each of the two tabs to get it to work. A gentle pinch on the front/back of the assembly worked like a charm (may have to move the assembly around once it partially drops to fully detach).

The light assembly pops down with one pair of wires to a relatively wide connector and one pair to a narrow connector - in my case the problem one. The connectors remove somewhat easily be holding in tabs on the back of the connectors but they can be hard to find.

I left the power on as no bare wires were exposed - but taping the light switch (on the door frame) would provide greater safety (regular tape worked for me) (unplugging fridge is best - but then you cannot get instant feedback on what works). Sometimes, just trying to detach the attachment worked, some times moving the wires worked, some times unconnecting/ reconnecting the narrow connector worked. So far, all have been temporary. Will try the contact cleaner approach if failures continue - otherwise I guess you replace the light attachment board.

Class action unlikely but for those who use the Internet (not me usually) please try to complain as loudly as possible on forums/whatever that shoppers might see. I suspect this is a huge con designed to sell service contracts (in response to my "My old fridge lasted over 15 years with no service - why would I do that?" the salesman said "but these have fancy electronics"). It's a single lousy electrical connection!

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Tried contact cleaner but it failed. Lived with flickering which died down to nearly undetectable until it started flickering more vibrantly toward fall. Now works fine. Suspect humidity is an issue - it also started accumulating ice in the bottom of the freezer which had to be cleaned out twice a day at the worst. Less ice in the fall; no problem now. So I guess I have a great refrig until spring!

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I sent them a letter a week ago but have not heard anything from Whirlpool on the situation of the light.. I suggested that they recall the part and replace or fix at their expense.

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What address did you use? Our old Kenmore also lasted 20 years no repairs. I looked at fridges with the old style bulbs, but I was told those LED lights would far outlive the refrigerator. Can't believe I bought that line. After reading and checking out every thing I could, ONE paragraph kind of removed from the rest was that if both sides were out or flickering, the problem was with the button the door hits to turn lights on and off. Another said that if both fridge & freezer lights were out, that you HAD to call a technition. I will use a flashlight before I do the latter. FYI: There were only 58 questions as of today (05/05/2019). There were 69 Thousand views on youtube!!! At least we aren't alone.

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I've had this exact same problem 3 times already. R15 and R17 are definitely the ones that blow. I have contacted whirlpool , sears and even jabil electronics,the maker of this defective circuit board, and no one wants to take responsibility or even admit there's a problem. We all need to call their customer service centers and demand a recall and that they redesign this LED. At $200 a pop they are not giving them away and LEDs are supposed to lasts at least a decade. The number to call is (866)698-2538 and email is whirlpool_customerexperience@whirlpool.com

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Great idea. I just emailed them. A replacement is all I'm asking for. I'm certainly not paying $200 for an LED light.

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I read most of the comments and decided to take a look at our WRS 342 FIAM C2. The dealer repair shop has left us waiting for weeks. Finally they called and said the wrong part came in. I took down the unit at the top of the main chamber like people said on the web. It was very stiff. Jiggling the plugs seemed to fix it but when I snapped the unit back the flashing started again. After a couple of times, I examined the position of the 4 rather large and stiff wires feeding into the plugs and thought that maybe those wired mechanically tilt the plugs when they are stuffed back in. Next time, I was very careful to be sure they were lined up to miss other parts in the compartment before snapping back This has worked so far.

Other comments:

No corrosion visible.

The lights were fine when I let the unit dangle. Incidentally, the wires came in through a hole with insulation wool behind it so I suspect some cold air seeps out continually. Bad.

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I did the same thing, it would work as long as I leave the lite hang, then putting it back it don't..

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Mibe is a WRS325FDAM04 with the freezer module not working. I tried the methods discussed on this thread but could not solve my issue. So I decided to “macgyver" an led module. But I had to first figure out the module voltage inputs. Believe it or not, there is a 120 VAC coming into the main module the converted to 24 VDC for the led modules. I actually measured 26 -28 VDC. So I ordered a roll of flexible water resistant led strip thru amazon. It was rated for 24 VDC , 6000K-6500K. Cut a piece of hard plastic to replace the old led board. Taped the two led strips, about 5 inches long and has 6 leds on each strip. Drilled a few holes around the strips and used small thin plastic wire ties to secure the strips to the plastic board. The led light roll cost about $10. The additional 10-pack solderless snap down connectors was $7. The plastic board was from an old chip-n-dip tray we got from dollar tree a while back. I also bought a kit of T-tap connectors but i needed it anyway. I used the t-tap connectors in case the module becomes more affordable in the near future. I'm not holding my breath on that one. All in all, this macgyvered led module works.

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Sorry, I had some pictures uploaded but I'm new to this and don't know how to show them.

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Is it possible to get the part number or model number for the led strip you used and how did you wire those in to the factory wiring

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Hi Q N, why can't we use 120 v led strip? Can u please describe complete project detail and source of components used.

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Real dim lights used to Flickr then quit Whirlpool side-by-side WRS325FDAW04 would love to hear when there is a class action suit on whirlpool for this factory defect of the lights

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Here are the photos.

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I had the same strobing problem, then both the freeze and both lights in the main refrigerator failed completely. I changed the R15 and R17 resistors. It lit but not all LEDs. Then it over heated and failed. I then shorted the two pins that go from the top main refrigerator light to the other lower light. The top main main light worked but of course the others did not. So I had a light in the main refrigerator but not in the freezer. I then gave up on repairing it. I opened all three light assemblies and disconnected all the connectors and but the clear covers back on. So nothing lit up. Then I installed a motion activated light in the freezer right over the dead light. In the main freezer I placed two lights on the ceiling as close to the front as possible. At first I double sided taped them in place, then screwed them in place. Works great. I will attach photos.

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Both of my light were broken 14 months after purchasing the refrigerator, Whirlpool fixed them at no charges, and both of were broken again a year later. Whirlpool refused to fix them this time. Replacing them will cost $200, it is so ridiculous. They are supposed to last a decade as some have pointed out.

I ended up purchasing rechargeable battery powered, motion activated LED power strip and put them in the freezer and the refrigerator. Works great!

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That’s exactly what I did as well. I’m NOT paying $200 (or more ) for a technician to fix this. Mine crapped out after 15 months. Remember the small incandescent refrigerator appliance bulbs that even the most mechanically inept person could easily replace and only cost $2 ? Well, that option is gone forever! Thanks Whirlpool ! I’ll remedy this problem permanently by NEVER buying another Whirlpool Refrigerator again - got that Whirlpool CEO !!

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The problem is with R15 chip on the main board. Just re-solder it or have someone with soldering skills do it and problem will be solved for both lights!

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@jonblair get a solder iron kit from Amazon they cost around 25 bucks. Take off the main light on the top of the fridge. Take the circuit board off and flip, Check if r15 looks bad. If so try to resoldered it. Watch some YouTube videos for tips and tricks.

https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Iron-Ki...

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Thanks for the tip. I resolved this problem by attaching motion activated lighting inside the freezer and refrigerator. The lights go on when the doors are opened and off when they are closed - this is MY solution. Plus, I will NEVER purchase another Whirlpool Refrigerator ever again, and I encourage others NOT to buy them as well, including customers I see at stores looking at them. I explain what I and many others have had to deal with regarding this appliance, including Whirlpool's failure to appropriate address this issue (which appears to be an engineering design problem). Customers SHOULD NOT have to fix this either initially (or subsequently) as many customers have reported. The REAL solution is to NOT buy these refrigerators, period. YOU GOT THAT WHIRLPOOL CEO AND CFO AND WHIRLPOOL BOARD OF DIRECTORS ? Are you all PROUD of your crappy product and FAILURE to appropriately address the problem ??? I know you read these comments !!

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This is horrible. Everyone is having the same issue of the electrical defect with their LED module and Whirlpool does nothing! I can't wait for the class action lawsuit. I don't have money for repairs every 15 months. Thank you for all the commentators. I was able to confirm the R15 resistor on my LED module is burnt out. I'll place a call to Whirlpool for Haha's. I already know what they will say but want to have a record of it. Good luck everyone.

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My solution $22 solution…………

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y28...

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Just ordered them great idea

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I got them for closet. Since have moved them to Kenmore frig. They worked for a little while, but they do NOT like the cold. Having to recharge every two days.

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You get what you pay for, everything is made in China. They use the cheapest of every item, and the solder on the circuits are only good for three in the cold, but I have seen the same for high temperature for say a radar detector that sits on dash all day or cellphone or smartbox.

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these work amazingly (so far, I've only had them for four days.). I hope @palmcoast26 just had some lemons. Either way, thanks for the suggestions.

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How do you attach the metal piece (that the magnet clings to) to the fridge/freezer? It sounds like it's adhesive...does it stay "stuck"? Or do you need to screw in the metal plate. Also, I would love to hear more feedback on these Amazon motion sensor lights. Do you really have to recharge them every two days??

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Im not the only one complaining about the inside lights in my whirlpool frig..i hear this is a huge problem.. I v had it replaced once. This better work for many years the frig is onltabout 4yrs or 5yrs old. When the light goes off on the frig side it shuts of the light in the freezer..Has there been a recall type thing re.this problem.I think they should replace every unit with a better light..

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the best advice I have is buy Samsung as they are not made in Mexico or Maytag, some are still made in USA

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Hello everyone, I had the problem with the lights strobing/flickering everytime I opened the fridge doors. I tried removing the LED module on the fridge side- cleaning and plugging it back in (lasted me less than a day), using a heat gun carefully over the board (lasted again less than a day). It would just flicker and strobe trying to accomplish its mission of giving me a seizure.

I noticed one thing that if I kept the fridge doors open for more than 5 minutes or so, the lights would not strobe so I thought maybe the moisture build up is causing the strobing. I decided to try using a WD-40 silicone lubricant (water resistant) which I had at home. I took the board out from the LED module, wiped it carefully to make it as dry as possible and sprayed the lubricant all over. It's been over 2 months now and the lights work perfectly well. I maybe had it flickering/ strobing 2 or 3 times in this time, that's it! The brightness is the same and hasn't affected the performance of the light at all. The spray is quite inexpensive and definitely worth a try. There is another spray of WD-40 or other brand which is waterproof and not water resistant like mine, which I think will work even better. Try out this solution if it works for you.

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Ok. I'm giving this a try! I had given up before and had just disconnected on of the lights... so, like you way, our family could avoid getting a seizure, too!

Previously, I thought I had narrowed things down to the freezer light. So I started with that one. Did just like you said. Took the whole thing apart and gave it a generous spray of WD-40, on both sides of the circuit board. Then dabbed it dry.

It worked, it seemed for a couple minutes... but then strobing started again. So... I went ahead and did the same thing to both lights in the refrigerator side.

So far... things seem to be working again! Steady light. ... I just got up to check it again. Should have heard my squeal of delight! I can't believe it. It's still working!

I'm wondering if my wife will notice when she comes home. THANK YOU for you post! It's 7/10/20. I hope it lasts!

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I have a kenmore made by whirlpool and had flickering lights. To fix it pop out the light with the module behind it. on the kenmore it is at top of refridgerator. push back in part of the way so you have a 1/4 inch gap. This lets air flow over module and keeps it dry. Mine has been working perfect for over a month.

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so does the light just pull off?

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push on tab holes in front of light with small flat screw driver. there is also 2 tabs on rear of light once you loosen front tabs the back tabs will come loose. push light back up until you have 1/4 inch gap between light and the fridge. this will air to flow in behind light to keep circut board dry.

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Thanks! I'll try that if my current fix, stops working. I took all 3 lights out, pulled out the circuit board, and sprayed a bunch of WD-40 all over... and then wiped them down. Still working!

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I just wonder if there is a market for a SIMPLE replacement board that would replace this module. Ideally it would just replace the board and have the second connector on it to power the other two modules in the fridge and freezer.

Hard to believe that a company would design and build such a faulty unit and then not redesign a better replacement in the first place.

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For the LED home made fix above, the original light switch has 2 connectors, a wide one and a narrow one. Which one do you connect the home made LED light strip to?

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Can anyone send me an image of the LED side of the board? Mine was flickering but I think the issue is that two resistors R15 and R17 are blown. If I had an image of their markings I could replace them. Below is an image of the board with blown resistors. Looking at the bad conformal coat job, I'd say it's possible moisture is an issue.

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thread on badcaps shows replacing the 2 resistors don't fix it. LED is deteriorating and bad. Solution is to replace the model with 120V LED light. See post #50 and onwards

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread...

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I took my R15 off, cleaned and soldred it back and problem was solved. My R17 is fine and says 910 on the top. I think it's part number RGH20P91BCT-ND . Good Luck!

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We soldered a small filter capacitor across the ac power input on the board. The first day only the main unit lit, but the next day all three came on and we haven't had an issue since.

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The problem is with R15 chip on the board. Just re-solder it or have someone with soldering skills do it and problem will be solved!

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@djab203 any final answer on the component name/ details of R15? mine is blown and I can’t be sure if R17 and R15 are the same as suggested by Joshua. plz help thx

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R15 on the LED side is burned through the conformal coating (the clear coat) I will evaluate at a later date to see what the value should be and remove and replace the resistor with the proper value to bring the light system back up.

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I took off R15 , measure it with my multimeter got 181 ohms. Did not have a resistor of that value. Resoldered it. Let see how long it lasts.

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I have the same issue. R15 looks pretty bad. I took off R15 , measure it with my multimeter got 181 ohms. Did not have a resistor of that value. Resoldered it. Let see how long it lasts.

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