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The Kenmore Elite HE3 is 7.2 cu. ft. capacity electric dryer by Kenmore.

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Dryer is not heating

The dryer will not heat on any setting.

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Have had a technician in to trouble shoot, he said he tested everything that could be tested. replaced the gas coil, still no heat.

Dryer heats for five minutes. then no heat. I replaced heater and thermostats in heater housing and all other components test out okay!

Does this mean that the electronic control board is faulty? Or, is something else wrong. The repair manual does NOT address this scenario!

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Thermal Fuse

The thermal fuse is a safety device designed to protect the dryer from overheating. The fuse is located on the blower housing or at the dryer’s heat source such as the heating element on electric dryers or at the burner on gas models. The fuse should be closed for continuity meaning it has a continuous electrical path through it when good. If overheated the fuse will have no continuity meaning the electrical path is broken and the fuse has blown out. A multimeter can be used to test it for continuity. Be aware that a blown thermal fuse is an indication of a restricted exhaust vent from the dryer to the outside. Always check the dryer venting when replacing a blown thermal fuse.

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Dryer rotated , element shows good, I replaced thermostat fuse...still not heating, what did I miss?

Ducts have been cleaned too

Betty what is the make and model number of your machine?

I'm having the same problem of no heat. Replaced thermal fuse and heating element, still no heat.

Model # 110.82822102

Kenmore elite HE3

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此回答最初是针对另一个问题

Where did you find this tech? The gas coil part costs around $8.00

Cause 1

Thermal Fuse

The thermal fuse is a safety device designed to protect the dryer from overheating. The fuse is located on the blower housing or at the dryer’s heat source such as the heating element on electric dryers or at the burner on gas models. The fuse should be closed for continuity meaning it has a continuous electrical path through it when good. If overheated the fuse will have no continuity meaning the electrical path is broken and the fuse has blown out. A multimeter can be used to test it for continuity. Be aware that a blown thermal fuse is an indication of a restricted exhaust vent from the dryer to the outside. Always check the dryer venting when replacing a blown thermal fuse.

Parts

Cause 2

Gas Valve Solenoid

Gas dryers have two or more gas valve solenoid coils. The gas valve solenoids open the gas valve ports to allow gas to flow into the burner assembly. If a gas valve solenoid fails, the dryer won’t heat. To determine if one or more of the gas valve solenoids has failed, check the igniter. If the igniter glows and goes out but does not ignite the gas, the gas valve solenoid is defective. If one or more of the gas valve coils are defective, we recommend that you replace them as a set.

Parts

Cause 3

Igniter

The igniter uses heat to ignite the gas in the burner assembly. If the igniter is not working, the gas will not ignite, preventing the dryer from heating. To determine if the igniter has burned out, use a multimeter to test the igniter for continuity. If the igniter does not have continuity, replace it.

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此回答最初是针对另一个问题

thermostat if it has one or the heating element

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My Dyer is not heating. Good Air Flow. I took the thermal fuse out and it reads '0' on my ohm meter which means both connectors are connected just fine. Sears Kenmore Elite HE3 Electric Dyer. Needless to say this was very disappointing.

Any ideas?

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My dryer wasn't heating either... I found the thermal fuse to be good. so i checked for other possible reasons and found one of the gas valve solenoid coils to be bad. I ordered a set and replaced them both. I was happy to see the flame come on and the dryer heated up as it should. But when i went to dry the first load...the dryer went cold after a few minutes. it's now back to its original problem, which was narrowed down to the coils. does this mean i the entire gas valve is bad or could it be something else?

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My he3 dryer dose not get hot enough to dry our clothes

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The tech sheet that came with that dryer, ( a large foldout of nine pages on one sheet, front and back) indicated a technician’s diagnostic process, (turning power on to the unit, and then choose a control button, other than stop, {and presumably, Start}, press and hold five seconds, release and wait five seconds, (doing this process three times) would cause the machine to enter “diagnostic mode”…

my machine would NOT ENTER THAT MODE. The evaluation stated that failure to slip into diagnostic mode indicated a definite fault. From that point I was directed to ohm out the aforementioned devices with the conclusion that if alll checked good, replacement of the control access panel (touch panel used to choose settings) was required. Further instructions stated that if that still did not correct the problem, replacement of the power control module would be necessary.

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