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Unveiled at the 2000 North American International Auto Show on January 10, 2000, the redesigned 2001 Dodge Caravan and 2001 Chrysler Town & Country were released for sale in August 2000.

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Heat vent stuck on one position

I have heat and AC in my 2002 Caravan but the vent is stuck on one position. I would like to have defrost.

I turn knob and it does not change to floor or defrost it just stays blowing in front.

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I also have a 2007 Dodge caravan And so far these last few years if I turn the fan all the way off then when I turn it back on the fan won't come back on as if there is a vent door stuck this stopping the blowing ,but I say that because when I hit a bump going down the road it comes back on ..But this last time it just stuck.what can I do???

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its nothign to do with the vetn door. the wire plug on the motor is loose and losing connection. hitting bumps loosens the wire plug. sometimes they get hot and start melting the plastic on the wire plug and make plastic burn smell. which could cause a fire in some cases.

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Calibration

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Home / Dodge Caravan

Blend Door Calibration

#1

Terry Donlan's AvatarTerry Donlan , 11-24-2010 12:00 PM

I have a 2005 Grand Caravan that has the 3 zone Heat/AC unit. Every season I have to have my Blend Doors recalibrated because it won't allow me to redirect where the air is blowing. Does anyone know the procedure to recalibrate the blend doors? I have to go to the dealer twice a year to have this done and they charge me $100 each time. I'm sure it's easy to do, I just need to know how?

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#2

Tizzy1's AvatarTizzy1 , 11-24-2010 02:22 PM

A/C-HEATER CONTROL CALIBRATION

The A/C-heater control module must be recalibrated each time an actuator motor or the A/C-heater control is replaced. If the vehicle is so equipped, the calibration procedure also includes rear HVAC positions for each actuator motor.

Turn the ignition switch to the On position.

If equipped with the manual temperature control (MTC) system, press and hold the Rear Wipe/Wash and Recirculation buttons for at least five seconds. If equipped with the automatic temperature control (ATC) systen, simultaneously press and hold the Power and Recirculation buttons on the A/C-heater control for at least five seconds. The MTC A/C-heater control Rear Wipe/Wash button light emitting diode (LED) and Recirculation button LED, or the ATC A/C-heater control Delay and Recirculation graphics will begin to flash when the calibration procedure has begun.

The calibration procedure should take less than two minutes to complete for the manual A/C-heater control, and less than twenty seconds for the ATC A/C-heater control. When the LEDs or graphics stop flashing, the calibration procedure is complete.

If the LEDs or graphics continue to flash beyond the two minute (manual) or twenty second (ATC) calibration time, it indicates that the A/C-heater control has detected a failure and a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) has been set. Refer to Body Diagnostic Procedures to perform further diagnosis. The LEDs or graphics will continue to flash even after the ignition switch is cycled Off and On, until a successful calibration is completed or until the vehicle has been driven about 13 kilometers (8 miles).

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Underneath of the dash to the right of the steering column on the driver's side is a cam. It has an electric servo motor that moves it from floor to defrost. You can try reaching up there and helping it move and maybe you can lubricate it with some WD-40 and a straw. If you move the knob on the dashboard from Floor to defrost and hear a loud clicking sound you may get lucky and just may be stuck. If that does not help it maybe the electric servo motor is bad or the switch on a dashboard may be bad. The best I can remember there is a calibration procedure if this does not help I can post that.

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I have a 2006 Dodge Gran Caravan with the same problem. I recalibrated as indicated above, same problem. I then read on another site a different solution. This worked. I disconnected the negative battery cable and let the the car stand for about 40 to 60 minutes . This allowed the capacitors to completely drain of any residual power. At least this is my assumption. I then reconnected the negative cable to the battery, started the car, turned on the heater/AC control, turned the indicator to defrost and like magic it all works now.

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there is a proper reset procedure for these door actuators. cpacitors? theres no capacitors involved in this system. you most likley have a failing actuator and or door shaft that is starting to break. eventually this wil get worse.

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I am sure you are correct in that there are no capacitors in the actuator, but there are in the BCM. Bye the Bye, it's now been over two years and I have not had the problem again.

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I just fixed this issue and found a possible fix. When you select a diffrent mode a motor turns more or less a wheel that has arms in specific tracks that open and close vents when it rotates to the desired position. One of the arms on my van came out of its track and Jamed it. I had to remove the panel under the steering wheel, and honestly just used a butter knife to pry the arm back slightly and turned the knob and the wheel rotated until it was above it’s track and I pushed it back in. The arm at the bottom is the one that jumped it’s track and jammed.

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