For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85). ***Any USD->Sterling Pound translations are done online, so bear in mind my numbers may be off.[br]
-
2021 NOTE: These days, I usually don’t recommend these CF era DSLRs due to the age and 25k shutter issue unless you’re basically getting it at bottom barrel pricing, and can front the battery replacement. Look for a midrange “i” camera or buy someone’s older high end DSLR like a 5D MII/III or newer, making sure it supports SDXC. With cheap XC cards in the 128GB class, these are not “bad” but are an iffy recommendation.***
+
2021 NOTE: These days, I usually don’t recommend these CF era DSLRs due to the age and 25k shutter issue unless you’re basically getting it at bottom barrel pricing, and can front the battery replacement. Look for a midrange “i” camera or buy someone’s older high end DSLR like a 5D MIII or newer, making sure it supports SDXC. With cheap XC cards in the 128GB class, these are not “bad” but are an iffy recommendation.***
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out the repair cost is as much as another body.
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and cleaning or replacing the lens contact fails). Many of the older entry level DSLRs are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. While this isn’t an issue with most hobby shooters, beware of professionally used ones. That said, Canon is conservative so they tend to go past 25k with the right care, but if it’s been abused it tends to fail sooner or may make it to 25k sharp and die. If possible, get the actuation count (this is often tricky on “cheap” units like the T3, but easy on models like the 20D due to being formerly high end models) and get the logged actuation count.
On a camera this old if the seller seller refuses to disclose it (or doesn't find out how to give you a rough idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count. Unless it’s cheap and you can buy a replacement on short notice, do not buy these “unknown” cameras. Ideally, you want one with 8-10k or less. The reason? Shutter repair requires a complete teardown and totals the body out! On average, it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60) plus part cost (usually used since the part is almost certainly obsolete as far as Canon sees it with the 20D), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that will total out a high usage camera like this. That said, you’ll probably never see it fail but try and get a low use one so you’re not dealing with a potentially short lived camera. Don’t let high mileage scare you, but pay accordingly.
Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and the modern Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses over megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors tend to be noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue (Canon does a good job like Sony, but you shouldn’t need to filter against this to an inch of the sensor’s life to *begin with*). With these older low megapixel cameras, the sensors aren't prone to such issues. You’ll also want a good CF->SDXC adapter as well - these are cheap and SD cards are much more common than CF cards are today. However, these are (sometimes) error prone, so you may want to carry a real CF card for memories that may be hard to revisit and replace any lost photos - and when you can chance it, get a 64-128GB SDXC and see how much you can get away with reliably.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85). ***Any USD->Sterling Pound translations are done online, so bear in mind my numbers may be off.[br]
-
2021 NOTE: These days, I usually don’t recommend these CF era DSLRs due to the age and 25k shutter issue unless you’re basically getting it at bottom barrel pricing, and can front the battery replacement. Look for a midrange “i” camera or buy someone’s older high end DSLR like a 5D MII or newer, making sure it supports SDXC. With cheap XC cards in the 128GB class, these are not “bad” but are an iffy recommendation.***
+
2021 NOTE: These days, I usually don’t recommend these CF era DSLRs due to the age and 25k shutter issue unless you’re basically getting it at bottom barrel pricing, and can front the battery replacement. Look for a midrange “i” camera or buy someone’s older high end DSLR like a 5D MII/III or newer, making sure it supports SDXC. With cheap XC cards in the 128GB class, these are not “bad” but are an iffy recommendation.***
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out the repair cost is as much as another body.
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and cleaning or replacing the lens contact fails). Many of the older entry level DSLRs are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. While this isn’t an issue with most hobby shooters, beware of professionally used ones. That said, Canon is conservative so they tend to go past 25k with the right care, but if it’s been abused it tends to fail sooner or may make it to 25k sharp and die. If possible, get the actuation count (this is often tricky on “cheap” units like the T3, but easy on models like the 20D due to being formerly high end models) and get the logged actuation count.
On a camera this old if the seller seller refuses to disclose it (or doesn't find out how to give you a rough idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count. Unless it’s cheap and you can buy a replacement on short notice, do not buy these “unknown” cameras. Ideally, you want one with 8-10k or less. The reason? Shutter repair requires a complete teardown and totals the body out! On average, it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60) plus part cost (usually used since the part is almost certainly obsolete as far as Canon sees it with the 20D), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that will total out a high usage camera like this. That said, you’ll probably never see it fail but try and get a low use one so you’re not dealing with a potentially short lived camera. Don’t let high mileage scare you, but pay accordingly.
Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and the modern Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses over megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors tend to be noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue (Canon does a good job like Sony, but you shouldn’t need to filter against this to an inch of the sensor’s life to *begin with*). With these older low megapixel cameras, the sensors aren't prone to such issues. You’ll also want a good CF->SDXC adapter as well - these are cheap and SD cards are much more common than CF cards are today. However, these are (sometimes) error prone, so you may want to carry a real CF card for memories that may be hard to revisit and replace any lost photos - and when you can chance it, get a 64-128GB SDXC and see how much you can get away with reliably.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85). ***Any USD->Sterling Pound translations are done online, so bear in mind my numbers may be off.[br]
-
2021 NOTE: These days, I usually don’t recommend these CF era DSLRs due to the age and 25k shutter issue unless you’re basically getting it at bottom barrel pricing, and can front the battery replacement. Look for a midrange or high end one that has an i at the model (Ex: T5i)now. With cheap XC cards in the 128GB class, these are not “bad” but are an iffy recommendation.***
+
2021 NOTE: These days, I usually don’t recommend these CF era DSLRs due to the age and 25k shutter issue unless you’re basically getting it at bottom barrel pricing, and can front the battery replacement. Look for a midrange “i” camera or buy someone’s older high end DSLR like a 5D MII or newer, making sure it supports SDXC. With cheap XC cards in the 128GB class, these are not “bad” but are an iffy recommendation.***
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out the repair cost is as much as another body.
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and cleaning or replacing the lens contact fails). Many of the older entry level DSLRs are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. While this isn’t an issue with most hobby shooters, beware of professionally used ones. That said, Canon is conservative so they tend to go past 25k with the right care, but if it’s been abused it tends to fail sooner or may make it to 25k sharp and die. If possible, get the actuation count (this is often tricky on “cheap” units like the T3, but easy on models like the 20D due to being formerly high end models) and get the logged actuation count.
On a camera this old if the seller seller refuses to disclose it (or doesn't find out how to give you a rough idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count. Unless it’s cheap and you can buy a replacement on short notice, do not buy these “unknown” cameras. Ideally, you want one with 8-10k or less. The reason? Shutter repair requires a complete teardown and totals the body out! On average, it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60) plus part cost (usually used since the part is almost certainly obsolete as far as Canon sees it with the 20D), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that will total out a high usage camera like this. That said, you’ll probably never see it fail but try and get a low use one so you’re not dealing with a potentially short lived camera. Don’t let high mileage scare you, but pay accordingly.
Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and the modern Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses over megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors tend to be noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue (Canon does a good job like Sony, but you shouldn’t need to filter against this to an inch of the sensor’s life to *begin with*). With these older low megapixel cameras, the sensors aren't prone to such issues. You’ll also want a good CF->SDXC adapter as well - these are cheap and SD cards are much more common than CF cards are today. However, these are (sometimes) error prone, so you may want to carry a real CF card for memories that may be hard to revisit and replace any lost photos - and when you can chance it, get a 64-128GB SDXC and see how much you can get away with reliably.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85). ***Any USD->Sterling Pound translations are done online, so bear in mind my numbers may be off.[br]
2021 NOTE: These days, I usually don’t recommend these CF era DSLRs due to the age and 25k shutter issue unless you’re basically getting it at bottom barrel pricing, and can front the battery replacement. Look for a midrange or high end one that has an i at the model (Ex: T5i) now. With cheap XC cards in the 128GB class, these are not “bad” but are an iffy recommendation.***
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out the repair cost is as much as another body.
-
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and cleaning or replacing the lens contact fails). Many of the older entry level DSLRs are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. While this isn’t an issue with most hobby shooters, beware of professionally used ones. That said, Canon is conservative so they tend to go past 25k with the right care, but if it’s been abused it tends to fail sooner or may make it to 25k sharp and die. If possible, get the actuation count (impossible on “cheap” units like the T3, but possible on models like the 20D due to being formerly high end models) and get the logged actuation count.
+
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and cleaning or replacing the lens contact fails). Many of the older entry level DSLRs are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. While this isn’t an issue with most hobby shooters, beware of professionally used ones. That said, Canon is conservative so they tend to go past 25k with the right care, but if it’s been abused it tends to fail sooner or may make it to 25k sharp and die. If possible, get the actuation count (this is often tricky on “cheap” units like the T3, but easy on models like the 20D due to being formerly high end models) and get the logged actuation count.
On a camera this old if the seller seller refuses to disclose it (or doesn't find out how to give you a rough idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count. Unless it’s cheap and you can buy a replacement on short notice, do not buy these “unknown” cameras. Ideally, you want one with 8-10k or less. The reason? Shutter repair requires a complete teardown and totals the body out! On average, it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60) plus part cost (usually used since the part is almost certainly obsolete as far as Canon sees it with the 20D), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that will total out a high usage camera like this. That said, you’ll probably never see it fail but try and get a low use one so you’re not dealing with a potentially short lived camera. Don’t let high mileage scare you, but pay accordingly.
Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and the modern Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses over megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors tend to be noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue (Canon does a good job like Sony, but you shouldn’t need to filter against this to an inch of the sensor’s life to *begin with*). With these older low megapixel cameras, the sensors aren't prone to such issues. You’ll also want a good CF->SDXC adapter as well - these are cheap and SD cards are much more common than CF cards are today. However, these are (sometimes) error prone, so you may want to carry a real CF card for memories that may be hard to revisit and replace any lost photos - and when you can chance it, get a 64-128GB SDXC and see how much you can get away with reliably.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85). ***Any USD->Sterling Pound translations are done online, so bear in mind my numbers may be off.[br]
-
2021 NOTE: These days, I usually don’t recommend these CF era DSLRs due to the age and 25k issue unless you’re basically getting it at bottom barrel pricing, and can front the battery replacement. Look for a midrange or high end one that has an i at the model (Ex: T5i) now.***
+
2021 NOTE: These days, I usually don’t recommend these CF era DSLRs due to the age and 25k shutter issue unless you’re basically getting it at bottom barrel pricing, and can front the battery replacement. Look for a midrange or high end one that has an i at the model (Ex: T5i) now. With cheap XC cards in the 128GB class, these are not “bad” but are an iffy recommendation.***
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out the repair cost is as much as another body.
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and cleaning or replacing the lens contact fails). Many of the older entry level DSLRs are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. While this isn’t an issue with most hobby shooters, beware of professionally used ones. That said, Canon is conservative so they tend to go past 25k with the right care, but if it’s been abused it tends to fail sooner or may make it to 25k sharp and die. If possible, get the actuation count (impossible on “cheap” units like the T3, but possible on models like the 20D due to being formerly high end models) and get the logged actuation count.
On a camera this old if the seller seller refuses to disclose it (or doesn't find out how to give you a rough idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count. Unless it’s cheap and you can buy a replacement on short notice, do not buy these “unknown” cameras. Ideally, you want one with 8-10k or less. The reason? Shutter repair requires a complete teardown and totals the body out! On average, it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60) plus part cost (usually used since the part is almost certainly obsolete as far as Canon sees it with the 20D), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that will total out a high usage camera like this. That said, you’ll probably never see it fail but try and get a low use one so you’re not dealing with a potentially short lived camera. Don’t let high mileage scare you, but pay accordingly.
Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and the modern Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses over megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors tend to be noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue (Canon does a good job like Sony, but you shouldn’t need to filter against this to an inch of the sensor’s life to *begin with*). With these older low megapixel cameras, the sensors aren't prone to such issues. You’ll also want a good CF->SDXC adapter as well - these are cheap and SD cards are much more common than CF cards are today. However, these are (sometimes) error prone, so you may want to carry a real CF card for memories that may be hard to revisit and replace any lost photos - and when you can chance it, get a 64-128GB SDXC and see how much you can get away with reliably.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85). ***Any USD->Sterling Pound translations are done online, so bear in mind my numbers may be off.***
+
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85). ***Any USD->Sterling Pound translations are done online, so bear in mind my numbers may be off.[br]
+
2021 NOTE: These days, I usually don’t recommend these CF era DSLRs due to the age and 25k issue unless you’re basically getting it at bottom barrel pricing, and can front the battery replacement. Look for a midrange or high end one that has an i at the model (Ex: T5i) now.***
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out the repair cost is as much as another body.
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and cleaning or replacing the lens contact fails). Many of the older entry level DSLRs are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. While this isn’t an issue with most hobby shooters, beware of professionally used ones. That said, Canon is conservative so they tend to go past 25k with the right care, but if it’s been abused it tends to fail sooner or may make it to 25k sharp and die. If possible, get the actuation count (impossible on “cheap” units like the T3, but possible on models like the 20D due to being formerly high end models) and get the logged actuation count.
On a camera this old if the seller seller refuses to disclose it (or doesn't find out how to give you a rough idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count. Unless it’s cheap and you can buy a replacement on short notice, do not buy these “unknown” cameras. Ideally, you want one with 8-10k or less. The reason? Shutter repair requires a complete teardown and totals the body out! On average, it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60) plus part cost (usually used since the part is almost certainly obsolete as far as Canon sees it with the 20D), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that will total out a high usage camera like this. That said, you’ll probably never see it fail but try and get a low use one so you’re not dealing with a potentially short lived camera. Don’t let high mileage scare you, but pay accordingly.
Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and the modern Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses over megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors tend to be noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue (Canon does a good job like Sony, but you shouldn’t need to filter against this to an inch of the sensor’s life to *begin with*). With these older low megapixel cameras, the sensors aren't prone to such issues. You’ll also want a good CF->SDXC adapter as well - these are cheap and SD cards are much more common than CF cards are today. However, these are (sometimes) error prone, so you may want to carry a real CF card for memories that may be hard to revisit and replace any lost photos - and when you can chance it, get a 64-128GB SDXC and see how much you can get away with reliably.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85). ***Any USD->Sterling Pound translations are done online, so bear in mind my numbers may be off.***
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out the repair cost is as much as another body.
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and cleaning or replacing the lens contact fails). Many of the older entry level DSLRs are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. While this isn’t an issue with most hobby shooters, beware of professionally used ones. That said, Canon is conservative so they tend to go past 25k with the right care, but if it’s been abused it tends to fail sooner or may make it to 25k sharp and die. If possible, get the actuation count (impossible on “cheap” units like the T3, but possible on models like the 20D due to being formerly high end models) and get the logged actuation count.
-
On a camera this old if the seller seller refuses to disclose it (or doesn't find out how to give you a rough idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count. Unless it’s cheap and you can buy a replacement on short notice, do not buy these “unknown” cameras. Ideally, you want one with 8-10k or less. The reason? Shutter repair requires a complete teardown and totals the body out! On average, it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60) plus part cost (usually used since the part is almost certainly obsolete as far as Canon sees it with the 20D), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that will total out a high usage camera like this. That said, you’ll probably never see it fail but try and get a low use one so you’re not dealing with a potentially short lived camera.
+
On a camera this old if the seller seller refuses to disclose it (or doesn't find out how to give you a rough idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count. Unless it’s cheap and you can buy a replacement on short notice, do not buy these “unknown” cameras. Ideally, you want one with 8-10k or less. The reason? Shutter repair requires a complete teardown and totals the body out! On average, it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60) plus part cost (usually used since the part is almost certainly obsolete as far as Canon sees it with the 20D), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that will total out a high usage camera like this. That said, you’ll probably never see it fail but try and get a low use one so you’re not dealing with a potentially short lived camera. Don’t let high mileage scare you, but pay accordingly.
Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and the modern Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses over megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors tend to be noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue (Canon does a good job like Sony, but you shouldn’t need to filter against this to an inch of the sensor’s life to *begin with*). With these older low megapixel cameras, the sensors aren't prone to such issues. You’ll also want a good CF->SDXC adapter as well - these are cheap and SD cards are much more common than CF cards are today. However, these are (sometimes) error prone, so you may want to carry a real CF card for memories that may be hard to revisit and replace any lost photos - and when you can chance it, get a 64-128GB SDXC and see how much you can get away with reliably.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85). ***Any USD->Sterling Pound translations are done online, so bear in mind my numbers may be off.***
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out the repair cost is as much as another body.
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and cleaning or replacing the lens contact fails). Many of the older entry level DSLRs are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. While this isn’t an issue with most hobby shooters, beware of professionally used ones. That said, Canon is conservative so they tend to go past 25k with the right care, but if it’s been abused it tends to fail sooner or may make it to 25k sharp and die. If possible, get the actuation count (impossible on “cheap” units like the T3, but possible on models like the 20D due to being formerly high end models) and get the logged actuation count.
On a camera this old if the seller seller refuses to disclose it (or doesn't find out how to give you a rough idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count. Unless it’s cheap and you can buy a replacement on short notice, do not buy these “unknown” cameras. Ideally, you want one with 8-10k or less. The reason? Shutter repair requires a complete teardown and totals the body out! On average, it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60) plus part cost (usually used since the part is almost certainly obsolete as far as Canon sees it with the 20D), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that will total out a high usage camera like this. That said, you’ll probably never see it fail but try and get a low use one so you’re not dealing with a potentially short lived camera.
-
Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and the modern Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses over megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors tend to be noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue (Canon does a good job like Sony, but you shouldn’t need to filter against this to an inch of the sensor’s life to *begin with*). With these older low megapixel cameras, the sensors aren't prone to such issues. You’ll also want a good CF->SDXC adapter as well - these are cheap and SD cards are much more common than CF cards are today. However, these are (sometimes) error prone, so you may want to carry a real CF card for memories that may be hard to revisit and replace any lost photos.
+
Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and the modern Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses over megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors tend to be noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue (Canon does a good job like Sony, but you shouldn’t need to filter against this to an inch of the sensor’s life to *begin with*). With these older low megapixel cameras, the sensors aren't prone to such issues. You’ll also want a good CF->SDXC adapter as well - these are cheap and SD cards are much more common than CF cards are today. However, these are (sometimes) error prone, so you may want to carry a real CF card for memories that may be hard to revisit and replace any lost photos - and when you can chance it, get a 64-128GB SDXC and see how much you can get away with reliably.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85). '''Any USD->Sterling Pound translations are done online, so bear in mind my numbers may be off.'''
+
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85). ***Any USD->Sterling Pound translations are done online, so bear in mind my numbers may be off.***
-
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out that’s what you are told.
+
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out the repair cost is as much as another body.
-
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and lens contact cleaning/replacement fails). Many of the older entry level DSLRs are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. If you take care of the camera, it usually lasts much longer (Canon is conservative), but if it’s been abused it may not even make it to official rated lifetime that Canon says it will. If it is possible to get the shutter count (Impossible on cameras like the T3, but may be possible on the 20D), find out how many logged actuations it has. If the seller refuses to disclose it (or doesn't find out how to give you a rough idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count. Do not buy it if it has a high/undisclosed actuation count. Look for a camera with 8-10k with less being ideal. The issue with these heavy use cameras is a bad shutter requires a total teardown to replace and WILL cost more then the residual (used) value of the camera; it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60) plus part cost (usually used since the part is almost certainly obsolete as far as Canon sees it), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that will total out an old camera like this. Even they’ll tell you flat out it’s not worth it.
+
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and cleaning or replacing the lens contact fails). Many of the older entry level DSLRs are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. While this isn’t an issue with most hobby shooters, beware of professionally used ones. That said, Canon is conservative so they tend to go past 25k with the right care, but if it’s been abused it tends to fail sooner or may make it to 25k sharp and die. If possible, get the actuation count (impossible on “cheap” units like the T3, but possible on models like the 20D due to being formerly high end models) and get the logged actuation count.
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To be honest you’ll probably never see it fail, but you want something that’s not near the official lifetime that is known just in case it sticks around for a longer then anticipated.
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On a camera this old if the seller seller refuses to disclose it (or doesn't find out how to give you a rough idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count. Unless it’s cheap and you can buy a replacement on short notice, do not buy these “unknown” cameras. Ideally, you want one with 8-10k or less. The reason? Shutter repair requires a complete teardown and totals the body out! On average, it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60) plus part cost (usually used since the part is almost certainly obsolete as far as Canon sees it with the 20D), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that will total out a high usage camera like this. That said, you’ll probably never see it fail but try and get a low use one so you’re not dealing with a potentially short lived camera.
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Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and many other Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses then megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors are noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue. These old low megapixel cameras aren't prone to such issues. Get a good CF->SDXC adapter as well - these are cheap and SD cards are much more common than CF cards are today. However, these are (sometimes) error prone, so you may want to carry a real CF card for memories that may be hard to revisit and replace any lost photos.
+
Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and the modern Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses over megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors tend to be noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue (Canon does a good job like Sony, but you shouldn’t need to filter against this to an inch of the sensor’s life to *begin with*). With these older low megapixel cameras, the sensors aren't prone to such issues. You’ll also want a good CF->SDXC adapter as well - these are cheap and SD cards are much more common than CF cards are today. However, these are (sometimes) error prone, so you may want to carry a real CF card for memories that may be hard to revisit and replace any lost photos.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85). '''Any USD->Sterling Pound translations are done online, so bear in mind my numbers may be off.'''
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out that’s what you are told.
-
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and lens contact cleaning/replacement fails) - many of the older entry level cameras are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. If you take care of the camera, it usually lasts much longer (Canon is conservative), but if it’s been abused it may not even make it to official rated lifetime that Canon says it will. If it is possible to get the shutter count (Impossible on cameras like the T3, but may be possible on the 20D), find out how many logged actuations it has. If the seller refuses to disclose it (or doesn't find out how to give you a rough idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count. Do not buy it if it has a high/undisclosed actuation count. Look for a camera with 8-10k with less being ideal. The issue with these heavy use cameras is a bad shutter requires a total teardown to replace and WILL cost more then the residual (used) value of the camera; it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60) plus part cost (usually used since the part is almost certainly obsolete as far as Canon sees it), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that will total out an old camera like this. Even they’ll tell you flat out it’s not worth it.
+
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and lens contact cleaning/replacement fails). Many of the older entry level DSLRs are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. If you take care of the camera, it usually lasts much longer (Canon is conservative), but if it’s been abused it may not even make it to official rated lifetime that Canon says it will. If it is possible to get the shutter count (Impossible on cameras like the T3, but may be possible on the 20D), find out how many logged actuations it has. If the seller refuses to disclose it (or doesn't find out how to give you a rough idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count. Do not buy it if it has a high/undisclosed actuation count. Look for a camera with 8-10k with less being ideal. The issue with these heavy use cameras is a bad shutter requires a total teardown to replace and WILL cost more then the residual (used) value of the camera; it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60) plus part cost (usually used since the part is almost certainly obsolete as far as Canon sees it), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that will total out an old camera like this. Even they’ll tell you flat out it’s not worth it.
To be honest you’ll probably never see it fail, but you want something that’s not near the official lifetime that is known just in case it sticks around for a longer then anticipated.
Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and many other Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses then megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors are noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue. These old low megapixel cameras aren't prone to such issues. Get a good CF->SDXC adapter as well - these are cheap and SD cards are much more common than CF cards are today. However, these are (sometimes) error prone, so you may want to carry a real CF card for memories that may be hard to revisit and replace any lost photos.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85). '''Any USD->Sterling Pound translations are done online, so bear in mind my numbers may be off.'''
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out that’s what you are told.
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and lens contact cleaning/replacement fails) - many of the older entry level cameras are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. If you take care of the camera, it usually lasts much longer (Canon is conservative), but if it’s been abused it may not even make it to official rated lifetime that Canon says it will. If it is possible to get the shutter count (Impossible on cameras like the T3, but may be possible on the 20D), find out how many logged actuations it has. If the seller refuses to disclose it (or doesn't find out how to give you a rough idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count. Do not buy it if it has a high/undisclosed actuation count. Look for a camera with 8-10k with less being ideal. The issue with these heavy use cameras is a bad shutter requires a total teardown to replace and WILL cost more then the residual (used) value of the camera; it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60) plus part cost (usually used since the part is almost certainly obsolete as far as Canon sees it), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that will total out an old camera like this. Even they’ll tell you flat out it’s not worth it.
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To be honest you’ll probably never see it fail, but you want something that’s not near the official lifetime that is known just in case it sticks around for a longer then anticipated time period.
+
To be honest you’ll probably never see it fail, but you want something that’s not near the official lifetime that is known just in case it sticks around for a longer then anticipated.
Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and many other Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses then megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors are noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue. These old low megapixel cameras aren't prone to such issues. Get a good CF->SDXC adapter as well - these are cheap and SD cards are much more common than CF cards are today. However, these are (sometimes) error prone, so you may want to carry a real CF card for memories that may be hard to revisit and replace any lost photos.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85). '''Any USD->Sterling Pound translations are done online, so bear in mind my numbers may be off.'''
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out that’s what you are told.
-
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and lens contact cleaning/replacement fails) - many of the older entry level cameras are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. If you take care of the camera, it usually lasts much longer (Canon is conservative), but if it’s been abused it may not even make it to official rated lifetime that Canon says it will. If it is possible to get the shutter count (Impossible on cameras like the T3, but may be possible on the 20D), find out how many logged actuations it has. If the seller refuses to disclose it (or find out how to give you an idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count - do not buy it if it’s high or the seller is hiding the number. The number you want to see is 8-10k or less. The reason is a bad shutter requires a total teardown to replace and WILL cost more then the residual (used) value of the camera; it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60) plus part cost (usually used since the part is almost certainly obsolete as far as Canon sees it), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that totals out an old camera like this (and when it fails). Again, even they’ll tell you flat out it’s not worth it.
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The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and lens contact cleaning/replacement fails) - many of the older entry level cameras are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. If you take care of the camera, it usually lasts much longer (Canon is conservative), but if it’s been abused it may not even make it to official rated lifetime that Canon says it will. If it is possible to get the shutter count (Impossible on cameras like the T3, but may be possible on the 20D), find out how many logged actuations it has. If the seller refuses to disclose it (or doesn't find out how to give you a rough idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count. Do not buy it if it has a high/undisclosed actuation count. Look for a camera with 8-10k with less being ideal. The issue with these heavy use cameras is a bad shutter requires a total teardown to replace and WILL cost more then the residual (used) value of the camera; it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60) plus part cost (usually used since the part is almost certainly obsolete as far as Canon sees it), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that will total out an old camera like this. Even they’ll tell you flat out it’s not worth it.
To be honest you’ll probably never see it fail, but you want something that’s not near the official lifetime that is known just in case it sticks around for a longer then anticipated time period.
Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and many other Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses then megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors are noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue. These old low megapixel cameras aren't prone to such issues. Get a good CF->SDXC adapter as well - these are cheap and SD cards are much more common than CF cards are today. However, these are (sometimes) error prone, so you may want to carry a real CF card for memories that may be hard to revisit and replace any lost photos.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85).
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For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85). '''Any USD->Sterling Pound translations are done online, so bear in mind my numbers may be off.'''
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out that’s what you are told.
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and lens contact cleaning/replacement fails) - many of the older entry level cameras are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. If you take care of the camera, it usually lasts much longer (Canon is conservative), but if it’s been abused it may not even make it to official rated lifetime that Canon says it will. If it is possible to get the shutter count (Impossible on cameras like the T3, but may be possible on the 20D), find out how many logged actuations it has. If the seller refuses to disclose it (or find out how to give you an idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count - do not buy it if it’s high or the seller is hiding the number. The number you want to see is 8-10k or less. The reason is a bad shutter requires a total teardown to replace and WILL cost more then the residual (used) value of the camera; it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60) plus part cost (usually used since the part is almost certainly obsolete as far as Canon sees it), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that totals out an old camera like this (and when it fails). Again, even they’ll tell you flat out it’s not worth it.
To be honest you’ll probably never see it fail, but you want something that’s not near the official lifetime that is known just in case it sticks around for a longer then anticipated time period.
Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and many other Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses then megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors are noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue. These old low megapixel cameras aren't prone to such issues. Get a good CF->SDXC adapter as well - these are cheap and SD cards are much more common than CF cards are today. However, these are (sometimes) error prone, so you may want to carry a real CF card for memories that may be hard to revisit and replace any lost photos.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85).
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out that’s what you are told.
-
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and lens contact cleaning/replacement fails) - many of the older entry level cameras are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. If you take care of the camera, it usually lasts much longer (Canon is conservative), but if it’s been abused it may not even make it to official rated lifetime that Canon says it will. If it is possible to get the shutter count (Impossible on cameras like the T3, but may be possible on the 20D), find out how many logged actuations it has. If the seller refuses to disclose it (or find out how to give you an idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count - do not buy it if it’s high or the seller is hiding the number. The number you want to see is 8-10k or less. The reason is a bad shutter requires a total teardown to replace and WILL cost more then the residual (used) value of the camera; it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that totals out an old camera like this (and when it fails). Again, even they’ll tell you flat out it’s not worth it.
+
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and lens contact cleaning/replacement fails) - many of the older entry level cameras are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. If you take care of the camera, it usually lasts much longer (Canon is conservative), but if it’s been abused it may not even make it to official rated lifetime that Canon says it will. If it is possible to get the shutter count (Impossible on cameras like the T3, but may be possible on the 20D), find out how many logged actuations it has. If the seller refuses to disclose it (or find out how to give you an idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count - do not buy it if it’s high or the seller is hiding the number. The number you want to see is 8-10k or less. The reason is a bad shutter requires a total teardown to replace and WILL cost more then the residual (used) value of the camera; it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60) plus part cost (usually used since the part is almost certainly obsolete as far as Canon sees it), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that totals out an old camera like this (and when it fails). Again, even they’ll tell you flat out it’s not worth it.
To be honest you’ll probably never see it fail, but you want something that’s not near the official lifetime that is known just in case it sticks around for a longer then anticipated time period.
Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and many other Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses then megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors are noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue. These old low megapixel cameras aren't prone to such issues. Get a good CF->SDXC adapter as well - these are cheap and SD cards are much more common than CF cards are today. However, these are (sometimes) error prone, so you may want to carry a real CF card for memories that may be hard to revisit and replace any lost photos.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85).
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out that’s what you are told.
-
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99) - many of the older entry level cameras are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL - if you take care of the camera, it usually lasts much longer as Canon is conservative with these cameras, but if it’s been abused it may not even make it to official rated lifetime that Canon says it will. If it is possible to get the shutter count (Impossible on cameras like the T3, but possible on the 20D as it’s a D Series DSLR), find out how many logged actuations it has before buying one. If it’s over 8-10k, look for another 20D; this part requires a total teardown to replace and WILL cost more then the residual (used) value of the camera. You’ll probably never see it fail, but you want something that’s not going to fail quickly just in case it sticks around for a longer then anticipated time period.
+
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and lens contact cleaning/replacement fails) - many of the older entry level cameras are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. If you take care of the camera, it usually lasts much longer (Canon is conservative), but if it’s been abused it may not even make it to official rated lifetime that Canon says it will. If it is possible to get the shutter count (Impossible on cameras like the T3, but may be possible on the 20D), find out how many logged actuations it has. If the seller refuses to disclose it (or find out how to give you an idea) they’re probably hiding a high shutter actuation count - do not buy it if it’s high or the seller is hiding the number. The number you want to see is 8-10k or less. The reason is a bad shutter requires a total teardown to replace and WILL cost more then the residual (used) value of the camera; it’s usually $100 (£76.40)-150 (£114.60), give or take depending on the shop and area you live in just to give you a rough idea of how quickly a major service like that totals out an old camera like this (and when it fails). Again, even they’ll tell you flat out it’s not worth it.
+
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To be honest you’ll probably never see it fail, but you want something that’s not near the official lifetime that is known just in case it sticks around for a longer then anticipated time period.
Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and many other Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses then megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors are noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue. These old low megapixel cameras aren't prone to such issues. Get a good CF->SDXC adapter as well - these are cheap and SD cards are much more common than CF cards are today. However, these are (sometimes) error prone, so you may want to carry a real CF card for memories that may be hard to revisit and replace any lost photos.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85).
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out that’s what you are told.
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99) - many of the older entry level cameras are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL - if you take care of the camera, it usually lasts much longer as Canon is conservative with these cameras, but if it’s been abused it may not even make it to official rated lifetime that Canon says it will. If it is possible to get the shutter count (Impossible on cameras like the T3, but possible on the 20D as it’s a D Series DSLR), find out how many logged actuations it has before buying one. If it’s over 8-10k, look for another 20D; this part requires a total teardown to replace and WILL cost more then the residual (used) value of the camera. You’ll probably never see it fail, but you want something that’s not going to fail quickly just in case it sticks around for a longer then anticipated time period.
-
Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and many other Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses then megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors are noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue. These old low megapixel cameras aren't prone to such issues.
+
Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and many other Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses then megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors are noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue. These old low megapixel cameras aren't prone to such issues. Get a good CF->SDXC adapter as well - these are cheap and SD cards are much more common than CF cards are today. However, these are (sometimes) error prone, so you may want to carry a real CF card for memories that may be hard to revisit and replace any lost photos.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($26.05).
+
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85).
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out that’s what you are told.
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99) - many of the older entry level cameras are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL - if you take care of the camera, it usually lasts much longer as Canon is conservative with these cameras, but if it’s been abused it may not even make it to official rated lifetime that Canon says it will. If it is possible to get the shutter count (Impossible on cameras like the T3, but possible on the 20D as it’s a D Series DSLR), find out how many logged actuations it has before buying one. If it’s over 8-10k, look for another 20D; this part requires a total teardown to replace and WILL cost more then the residual (used) value of the camera. You’ll probably never see it fail, but you want something that’s not going to fail quickly just in case it sticks around for a longer then anticipated time period.
Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and many other Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses then megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors are noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue. These old low megapixel cameras aren't prone to such issues.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($26.05).
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out that’s what you are told.
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The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99) - many of the older entry level cameras are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL - if you take care of the camera, it generally lasts much longer but if it’s been abused it may not even make it to official rated lifetime. If it is possible to get the shutter count, find out how many logged actuations it has before buying one. If it’s over 8-10k, look for another 20D; this part requires a total teardown to replace and WILL cost more then the value of the camera. You’ll probably never see it fail, but you want something that’s not going to fail quickly.
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The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99) - many of the older entry level cameras are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL - if you take care of the camera, it usually lasts much longer as Canon is conservative with these cameras, but if it’s been abused it may not even make it to official rated lifetime that Canon says it will. If it is possible to get the shutter count (Impossible on cameras like the T3, but possible on the 20D as it’s a D Series DSLR), find out how many logged actuations it has before buying one. If it’s over 8-10k, look for another 20D; this part requires a total teardown to replace and WILL cost more then the residual (used) value of the camera. You’ll probably never see it fail, but you want something that’s not going to fail quickly just in case it sticks around for a longer then anticipated time period.
-
Other then the shutter wearing out and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and many other Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses then megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors are noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue. These old low megapixel cameras aren't prone to such issues.
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Other then the shutter problems and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and many other Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses then megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors are noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue. These old low megapixel cameras aren't prone to such issues.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($26.05).
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out that’s what you are told.
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99) - many of the older entry level cameras are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL - if you take care of the camera, it generally lasts much longer but if it’s been abused it may not even make it to official rated lifetime. If it is possible to get the shutter count, find out how many logged actuations it has before buying one. If it’s over 8-10k, look for another 20D; this part requires a total teardown to replace and WILL cost more then the value of the camera. You’ll probably never see it fail, but you want something that’s not going to fail quickly.
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Other then the shutter wearing out and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and many other Canon DSLRs.
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Other then the shutter wearing out and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and many other Canon DSLRs. It is still an excellent camera today as well since you need to focus more on lenses then megapixels as all of these high megapixel sensors are noisy and you usually need on camera filtering to combat the issue. These old low megapixel cameras aren't prone to such issues.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($26.05).
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Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out that’s the reality of the situation.
+
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out that’s what you are told.
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99) - many of the older entry level cameras are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL - if you take care of the camera, it generally lasts much longer but if it’s been abused it may not even make it to official rated lifetime. If it is possible to get the shutter count, find out how many logged actuations it has before buying one. If it’s over 8-10k, look for another 20D; this part requires a total teardown to replace and WILL cost more then the value of the camera. You’ll probably never see it fail, but you want something that’s not going to fail quickly.
Other then the shutter wearing out and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and many other Canon DSLRs.
For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($26.05).
Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out that’s the reality of the situation.
The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99) - many of the older entry level cameras are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL - if you take care of the camera, it generally lasts much longer but if it’s been abused it may not even make it to official rated lifetime. If it is possible to get the shutter count, find out how many logged actuations it has before buying one. If it’s over 8-10k, look for another 20D; this part requires a total teardown to replace and WILL cost more then the value of the camera. You’ll probably never see it fail, but you want something that’s not going to fail quickly.
Other then the shutter wearing out and bent/broken CF card pins, there is not much that goes wrong with the 20D and many other Canon DSLRs.