编辑校准电池

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	[title\|Battery Calibration]
-
-	[toc]

	[summary]All newly-installed smart batteries should be calibrated as soon as possible. This helps your phone or laptop get an accurate reading on the battery’s state of charge.[/summary]

	== How to calibrate your battery ==

-	++For ~~'''~~phones~~'''~~ and ~~'''~~tablets~~'''~~:++
+	++For *phones* and *tablets*:++

-	# Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours.
+	# Charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least two more hours.
	# Use your device until it shuts off due to low battery.
	# Charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

-	++For ~~'''~~laptops~~'''~~:++
+	++For *laptops*:++

	# Charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least two more hours.

	# Wait at least five hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

+	Apple MacBooks with Thunderbolt 3 ports running macOS Catalina 10.15.5 or newer have a battery health management feature that can prevent the MacBook from charging to 100%. If your MacBook has this feature, [link\|https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT211094#control\|turn it off] before beginning calibration.
+
	It’s best to perform this process periodically (about once a month) to ensure that the battery remains properly calibrated throughout its lifespan.

	== Background: What’s calibration anyway? ==

-	For a good read on battery calibration, see [https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/battery_calibration\|this page]. [https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/the_battery_fuel_gauge\|This article on fuel gauges] is also instructive. What follows is our summation.
+	For a good read on battery calibration, see [link\|https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/battery_calibration\|this page]. [link\|https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/the_battery_fuel_gauge\|This article on fuel gauges] is also instructive. What follows is our summation.

	The fundamental problem is that there’s no reliable way to know exactly how much energy a battery holds at any given moment. (It’s an electrochemical storage system that is always changing and decaying, and never behaves exactly the same way from one charge to the next.) About the only reliable way to gauge it is to fully charge the battery, then fully discharge it and measure the difference (a.k.a. coulomb counting). Obviously, we can't do that every time we want to check the battery level, so we have to use indirect methods—storing all kinds of usage data and using that to calculate an estimated % state of charge from moment to moment. Over time, that calculation tends to drift and become less accurate. And on a brand-new battery, there’s not really any good data to work with, so the model will be way off. Calibration helps keep estimates accurate by setting new “full charge” and “full discharge” anchors in the battery management system so it doesn’t have to guess. We're still playing Pin the Tail on the Donkey, but calibration tells the battery management system, "Hey—the donkey is over ''that'' way."

	# Plug in the MagSafe Power Adapter and fully charge the battery.
	# When the battery is fully charged, the light on the MagSafe Power Adapter connector changes to green and the Battery icon in the menu bar indicates that the battery is charged.
-	# ~~'''~~Allow the battery to rest in the fully charged state for two hours or longer.~~'''~~
+	# *Allow the battery to rest in the fully charged state for two hours or longer.*
	# You can use your computer during this time as long as the power adapter is plugged in.
	# With the computer still on, disconnect the power adapter and continue to use your computer.
	# When you see the low battery warning, save your work and close all applications. Keep your computer turned on until it goes to sleep.
-	# ~~'''~~After your computer goes to sleep, turn it off or allow it to sleep for five hours or longer.~~'''~~
+	# *After your computer goes to sleep, turn it off or allow it to sleep for five hours or longer.*
	# Connect the power adapter and leave it connected until the battery is fully charged.[/quote]

-	Note that Apple seemingly doesn’t trust your system to know when the battery is fully charged ~~'''~~''or''~~'''~~ discharged, and wants you to keep it on the charger an extra two hours just to make sure, before you proceed with the calibration.
+	Note that Apple seemingly doesn’t trust your system to know when the battery is fully charged *''or''* discharged, and wants you to keep it on the charger an extra two hours just to make sure, before you proceed with the calibration.

	This seems to align with what we’ve learned, and matches other battery calibration DIYs around the web.

英语

页面标题

显示标题

摘要

All newly-installed smart batteries should be calibrated as soon as possible. This helps your phone or laptop get an accurate reading on the battery’s state of charge.

附加信息

Without calibration, the battery percentage reading will be incorrect, and your device may behave oddly—shutting down suddenly even though the new battery “reads” half charged, or working for hours when the battery reads nearly dead.

== How to calibrate your battery ==

++For ***phones*** and ***tablets***:++

# Charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least two more hours.
# Use your device until it shuts off due to low battery.
# Charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

++For ***laptops***:++

# Charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least two more hours.
# Unplug your laptop and use it normally to drain the battery.
# Save your work when you see the low battery warning.
# Keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery.
# Wait at least five hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

Apple MacBooks with Thunderbolt 3 ports running macOS Catalina 10.15.5 or newer have a battery health management feature that can prevent the MacBook from charging to 100%. If your MacBook has this feature, [link|https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT211094#control|turn it off] before beginning calibration.

It’s best to perform this process periodically (about once a month) to ensure that the battery remains properly calibrated throughout its lifespan.

== Background: What’s calibration anyway? ==

For a good read on battery calibration, see [link|https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/battery_calibration|this page]. [link|https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/the_battery_fuel_gauge|This article on fuel gauges] is also instructive. What follows is our summation.

The fundamental problem is that there’s no reliable way to know exactly how much energy a battery holds at any given moment. (It’s an electrochemical storage system that is always changing and decaying, and never behaves exactly the same way from one charge to the next.) About the only reliable way to gauge it is to fully charge the battery, then fully discharge it and measure the difference (a.k.a. coulomb counting). Obviously, we can't do that every time we want to check the battery level, so we have to use indirect methods—storing all kinds of usage data and using that to calculate an estimated % state of charge from moment to moment. Over time, that calculation tends to drift and become less accurate. And on a brand-new battery, there’s not really any good data to work with, so the model will be way off. Calibration helps keep estimates accurate by setting new “full charge” and “full discharge” anchors in the battery management system so it doesn’t have to guess. We're still playing Pin the Tail on the Donkey, but calibration tells the battery management system, "Hey—the donkey is over ''that'' way."

== What do “full charge” and “full discharge” actually mean? ==

Here’s the nub of the problem. How do you update those “full charge” and “full discharge” flags? The above-linked page at Battery University puts it this way:

[quote]''To maintain accuracy, a smart battery should periodically be calibrated by running the pack down in the device until “Low Battery” appears and then apply a recharge. The full discharge sets the discharge flag and the full charge establishes the charge flag. A linear line forms between these two anchor points that allow state-of-charge estimation. In time, this line gets blurred again and the battery requires recalibration. Figure 2 illustrates the full-discharge and full-charge flags.''

[image|1739979|size=medium|align=center]

''Figure 2: Full-discharge and full-charge flags. Calibration occurs by applying a full charge, discharge and charge. This is done in the equipment or with a battery analyzer as part of battery maintenance.''[/quote]

Two things to notice here: (1) According to this page, it’s not enough to drain and then charge—you have to start by charging it fully. And, (2) “full discharge” is ambiguous—the figure seems to indicate that the full-discharge flag will be set at 10%, but the whole problem we’re trying to solve is that the % reading is inaccurate. How do you know when you’ve drained your battery “below 10%” if the battery reading is inaccurate? You don’t! For example, we've installed numerous batteries that eventually gave a “low battery” warning and then continued to work full steam for hours on an indicated battery charge of 1%. In short, “calibrating" a battery by draining it “below 10%” is futile. It’s like giving someone a car with a broken fuel gauge and telling them to drive until the tank is ¼ full.

What seems to be going on here is, the graph above is meant to show the actual chemical state of the battery and not the % indicated to the user, which can be quite different. User-facing software may claim a battery charge of near zero when the actual chemical state of the battery is closer to 10% charge. This is done deliberately to prevent the battery from ever discharging below a safe level where battery damage may occur and the system may not be able to reboot. In short, the system always shuts itself down with a little bit of charge left in the battery as a safety measure, but it doesn’t show that reserve amount to the user. As one commenter on the above-linked article pointed out:

[quote]* The low battery warning is purely implemented in the device software as a means to prevent possible data loss whilst using it and is completely independent of the battery management system.
* Even if you let your device run until it shuts down automatically due to lack of battery charge, the battery management system will still keep the battery charge at a high enough level to prevent damage to the battery pack.
* The battery gauge that you see displayed on the screen is basically the amount of USEABLE charge the battery has and NOT the absolute total charge of the battery. This is why you can change the “battery low” warning to any percentage you choose—it’s not there to protect the battery (that’s done automatically by the battery management system), it’s there to give you enough time to save your work or connect the charger.
* Therefore, if you intend to calibrate your device battery, you need to let it run down past the warnings until it shuts down automatically BEFORE recharging—otherwise you may not discharge the battery sufficiently to register the battery management system’s discharged flag, thus rendering your attempt to calibrate the battery incomplete.

Remember there are two different (but connected) systems at play, the battery management system, which monitors and controls the health of the battery, and the software user interface (and associated power control software), which reads data from the former to display an indication of battery charge status and level and respond to various flags (like shut down when the discharge flag is set).[/quote]

== Now what? ==

It would be great to confirm all this by checking Apple’s official battery calibration procedure, but they seem to have purged it from their support site under the premise that their newer batteries are calibrated from the factory and are not user-replaceable. However, you can find it quoted in a number of forums as follows:

[quote]++To calibrate a portable computer battery:++

# Plug in the MagSafe Power Adapter and fully charge the battery.
# When the battery is fully charged, the light on the MagSafe Power Adapter connector changes to green and the Battery icon in the menu bar indicates that the battery is charged.
# ***Allow the battery to rest in the fully charged state for two hours or longer.***
# You can use your computer during this time as long as the power adapter is plugged in.
# With the computer still on, disconnect the power adapter and continue to use your computer.
# When you see the low battery warning, save your work and close all applications. Keep your computer turned on until it goes to sleep.
# ***After your computer goes to sleep, turn it off or allow it to sleep for five hours or longer.***
# Connect the power adapter and leave it connected until the battery is fully charged.[/quote]

Note that Apple seemingly doesn’t trust your system to know when the battery is fully charged  ***''or''*** discharged, and wants you to keep it on the charger an extra two hours just to make sure, before you proceed with the calibration.

This seems to align with what we’ve learned, and matches other battery calibration DIYs around the web.

中文

[title|校准电池]

[summary]所有新安装的电池都必须尽快校准。这可以帮助你的手机和笔记本读取准确的电池电量。[/summary]

[summary_image|1740094]

如果没有校准，电池百分比读数将不正确，设备可能会在显示仍有一半剩余电量时突然关机，或是在显示电量已耗尽时仍能坚持运行好几个小时。

== 如何校准电池 ==

++  ***手机*** 和 ***平板电脑***:++

# 充电至100％，并继续充电至少2小时。
# 使用你的设备，直到它因电池电量不足而关闭。
# 不间断地充电到100％。

++ ***笔记本电脑***:++

# 充电至100％，并继续充电至少两个小时。
# 断开充电器，正常使用您的笔记本电脑直至其电池电源正常耗尽。
# 看到电池电量不足的警告时及时保存文件。
# 保持笔记本电脑开机，直到它由于电量不足而进入睡眠状态。
# 等待至少五个小时，然后将笔记本电脑不间断充电至100％。

配有 Thunderbolt 3接口并运行 macOS Catalina 10.15.5 及更新版本操作系统的 MacBook 配有电池健康管理程序。该程序会阻止电池充电至100%。请先检查 MacBook 是否配有此功能，并在进行电池校准操作之前[link|https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT211094#control|将其关闭]。

最好定期（大约每月一次）执行此过程，以确保电池在整个使用寿命期间保持正确校准。

== 背景知识：电池校准到底是什么？ ==

关于电池校准，BatteryUniversity 的[link|https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/battery_calibration|这篇文章]进行了详细介绍。它们同时也有[link|https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/the_battery_fuel_gauge|一篇文章]讲解了电池电量百分比是如何测量出来的。我们对这两篇文章的总结如下。

根本问题在于，没有可靠的方法可以确切知道电池在任何给定时刻所含有的能量。 （这是一种电化学存储系统，它总是在变化和衰减，从一次充电到下一次充电时从不完全相同。）关于唯一可靠的测量方法是给电池充满电，然后完全放电并测量电池的电量差异（又称库仑计数）。显然，我们并不能每次想要检测电池电量时都这样做，因此我们必须使用间接方法——存储各种使用数据并使用它来估计电池电量百分比。随着时间的推移，该计算变得不太准确。而对于更换后的新电池上，历史数据不具有参考价值，因此过去积累数据建立的模型应当被完全舍弃。电池校准可以帮助电池管理系统重新学习电池”完全充电“和”完全放电“的基准值，使对电池电量的估计更加准确。

== “完全充电” 和 “完全放电” 究竟是什么意思？ ==

这是问题的关键：你如何更新那些“完全充电”和“完全放电”标志？  BatteryUniversity 的两篇文章中是这样说的：

[quote]''为了保持准确性，应当通过定期让设备中的电池组持续消耗至“低电池电量”状态后再进行充电，来校准智能电池。“完全放电”设置放电标志，“完全充电”建立充电标志。在这两个标志基点之间形成线性图线以供充电状态估计。随着时间的推移，这条线再次变得不准确，电池需要重新校准。图2显示了完全放电和充满电的标志。''

[image|1739979|size=medium|align=center]

''图2：完全放电和完全充电的标志。通过完全充电、放电和再充电进行校准。这是在设备或电池分析仪中完成的，作为电池维护的一部分。''[/quote]

这里要注意两件事：（1）根据这个页面，完全放电再完全充电是不够的，必须先将电池充至100%。并且，（2）“完全放电”是模糊的概念——该图似乎表明全放电标志将被设置为10％，但我们试图解决的整个问题是％读数是不准确的。如果电池读数不准确，你怎么知道你的电池电量“低于10％”？你并不知道！例如，我们安装了许多电池，最终发出“低电量”警告，然后在指示的电池电量为1％的情况下持续工作数小时。简而言之，通过将电池“低于10％”耗尽“来校准”电池是徒劳的。这就像给某人一辆漏油的汽车并告诉他们等油缸耗到只有¼满就不要开了。

这里似乎正在发生的是，上图中描述的是电池的实际化学状态，而不是用户看到的电池电量百分比。这两者是完全不同的。当电池的实际化学状态剩余10%的电量时，面向用户的软件可能提示电池电量已经耗尽。这是刻意设定的，以防止电池过度放电至可能发生电池损坏并且无法重新启动的安全水平之下。简而言之，作为一项安全措施，系统总是在电池中剩余极少量电量时提前关闭。但具体保留的电量值有时并不会告知用户。正如上述链接文章的一条评论指出：

[quote]* 低电量警告纯粹在设备软件中实现，作为防止在使用时可能丢失数据的方法，并且完全独立于电池管理系统。
* 即使你让设备运行直到由于电池电量不足而自动关闭，电池管理系统仍会将电池电量保持在足够高的水平以防止损坏电池组。
* 你在屏幕上看到的电池电量表基本上是电池的可用电量，而不是电池的绝对总电量。这就是为什么你可以将“电池电量不足”警告更改为你选择的任何百分比 —— 它不是为了保护电池（由电池管理系统自动完成），它可以为你提供足够的时间来保存你的工作或连接充电器。
* 因此，如果你打算校准你的设备电池，则需要完全越过系统保留的安全电量水平，将电池完全放电，然后再进行充电。否则电池校准结果会因为没有完全放电而变得不准确。

请记住，有两个不同（但已连接）的系统正在运行：负责监视和控制电池的健康状况的电池管理系统，以及从电池管理系统读取数据，根据数据计算并显示电池剩余电量的系统软件。[/quote]

== 现在该怎么做？ ==

Apple 官方电池校准操作步骤可以作为一个很好的参考。可惜的是，Apple 计算机中的电池现在经过出厂校准，而且不再是可供用户自行更换的，并且他们似乎已经从支持页面移除该文档。但是，你可以在许多论坛中找到它，如下所示：

[quote]++校准便携式电脑电池：++

# 插入MagSafe电源适配器并为电池充满电。
# 当电池充满电时，MagSafe电源适配器连接器上的指示灯变为绿色，菜单栏中的电池图标表示电池已充电。
# ***让电池在充满电的状态下休息两小时或更长时间。***
# 只要插入电源适配器，你就可以在此期间使用计算机。
# 在计算机仍然打开的情况下，断开电源适配器并继续使用计算机。
# 当你看到电池电量不足警告时，请保存你的工作并关闭所有应用程序。让计算机保持打开状态直到它进入睡眠状态。
# ***计算机进入睡眠状态后，将其关闭或让其睡眠五小时或更长时间。***
# 连接电源适配器并保持连接状态，直到电池充满电为止。[/quote]

请注意，苹果似乎不相信你的系统知道电池何时完全充电 ***''或''*** 放电，并且希望在你继续校准前，额外保持充电两小时。

这似乎与我们学到的东西一致，并与网络上的其它电池校准 DIY 相匹配。