Tim D

Periodically, my iPhone 5s will lose its connection to Wifi. When I go into Settings, it recognizes my Wifi network, and...

REF: https://f01.justanswer.com/smitty1486/74...-7c73-413e-97ce-3d912ed75836_GHWN4250D+Tech+Sheet.pdf The above link is a mini-service bulletin for your washer. Before replacing the motor/inverter assembly, you want to check for error codes. First, go to page 2 of the service bulletin above and perform item 7 to check the motor status. Count the number of inverter status light flashes and refer to page 1 to decode the error. Besides the motor/inverter assembly, other possible issues are the lid switch, the drive belt , or the mode shifter. The error codes should help point you in the right direction. If the motor is reporting a normal status, perform field service mode on page 1 for other troubleshooting.

Start with the basic troubleshooting tips on page 18 of the Owner’s Manual (link below). For “Washer won’t spin” the manual says the possible causes are 1. Washer door is open, 2. Dispenser drawer is open, and/or 3. Load is too small. Next, check if the washer is giving off an error code . Essentially, if an error code occurs, the lights will flash and it will beep a number of times. The number of flashes is the error code. Then, it will pause for two seconds, and then repeat the error code. See page 23 of the Service Manual below for deciphering the error code. Next, go to page 7 of the Service Manual. Perform the diagnostic test. You’re most interested in paragraph 9 for the spin cycle. This will manually put the washer into spin, and perhaps throw an error code for you to diagnose. Finally, go to page 26 and perform test 9. Most likely, you problem is either the door switch assembly (see pages 12-13), the inverter or the motor (see page 21). Hopefully, you will have a clear error code. If not, test 9 on...

I suspect your neutral drain assembly of the transmission is not disengaging during the pause between the drain and spin cycles. When you open the lid and stop the engine, it removes enough pressure to allow the neutral drain assembly to disengage. You may want to make sure the timer is allowing a long enough pause between the drain and spin cycles to give the motor enough time to coast to a stop and disengage the neutral drain. It should be about 2 minutes. Also, here is a video replacing the neutral drain assembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUOH67Wi...

You have bad interlock switches in the microwave door. There are three of them. One of them (most likely the door sensing switch) is backwards (i.e. the switch closes when the door is open, and the switch open when the door is closed. The switches aren’t very expensive, only $5-10 a piece. Here is an article on how to test an interlock switches: https://www.partselect.com/Microwave+tes...-door-switch+repair.htm You can enter your model number here to get a replacement door switch: https://www.partselect.com/Microwave-Switches.htm

A door contact is a normally closed switch, so a chime will be created when the door is open (i.e. opening the circuit). This is in contrast to a push contact door bell which is normally open, and will chime when the button is pushed (i.e closing the circuit). So on the old model (RPWL3045A) you wire a door contact to pins 4 and 5, which chimes when the circuit is open, and you wire a push contact to pins 1 and 2, which chimes when the circuit is closed. However, the new model (RPWL4045A2000) only has circuits for push contacts, which will chime when the circuit closes. While it does have contacts for two different push contacts (A1/A2 and B1/B2), it does not have pins that allow for a normally closed switch that chimes when the circuit is open like when a door contact is opened. Ultimately, the old and new model do not have the same functions, as the old model has both a normally open and a normally closed circuit, while the new model only has a normally open circuit. In other words, if you wire your door...

There is a magnetic float sensor in your reservoir that is stuck in the down position. Fill up the reservoir to the max level and tap the side of the reservoir until the float is free (this works better if you remove the reservoir first). You can also use a magnet against the side of the reservoir by the float to help jiggle it free. If this doesn’t work, there is most likely an obstruction blocking the float sensor. Clean the reservoir thoroughly.

Briggs and Stratton 675 Series Repair Pull Cord Replacement

iPhone 8 Screen This part replaces the entire assembly - both the LCD and digitizer (as well as the camera and earpiece). So, if you buy the part from iFixit, it will also make the full touch screen work again.

ONVIF is not a brand of camera, but a forum for standardizing interfaces of IP security protocols (see https://www.onvif.org/ ). Many brands of cameras comply with ONVIF standards (see https://www.onvif.org/conformant-products/ ). So resetting your password will depend on the particular brand of camera. Here is a site listing different ways to factory reset different brands of camera: https://www.a1securitycameras.com/techni...-support/how-to-reset-ip-security-cameras-by-brands/ Additionally, perhaps your installer never changed the default password. Here is a list default username and passwords by brand: https://www.a1securitycameras.com/techni...-support/default-username-passwords-ip-addresses-for-surveillance-cameras/

So I had to do some digging… This appears to be the Craftsman 5200 based on the pictures: https://www.sears.com/craftsman-48-in-turn-tight-174-hydrostatic-garden-tractor/p-07120407000P?sellerId=SEARS&prdNo=1&bloc... From that webpage, I found the operator’s manual: https://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/10091727/prod_2333481712 On page 27 of the pdf on the operator’s manual, you’ll find a section called “To Replace Mower Blade Drive Belt” with the following diagram of the belt routing: Of course, this is all assuming that my digging is correct, and your riding mower is model# 917.204070 .