使用本指南更换iPad Air有缺陷的主板。

  1. 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。
    • 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。

    • 把iOpener放在微波炉中间 。

      • 对于旋转式微波炉:确保盘子可以自由旋转。如果你的iOpener卡住了,它可能会过热并燃烧

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - 回复

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 回复

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 回复

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 回复

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - 回复

    I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

    putinaspiliponis - 回复

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 回复

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 回复

    I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

    Sherry Carew - 回复

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - 回复

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?



    Cedric VINCENT - 回复

  2. 加热iOpener三十秒
    • 加热iOpener三十秒

    • 贯穿整个维修过程,如果iOpener 冷却了,在微波炉中每次重新加热额外的三十秒。

    • 注意在维修过程中不要过度加热iOpener,过热可能会导致iOpener爆炸。

    • 如果出现膨胀千万不要碰iOpener。

    • 如果iOpener中间部分依然烫的没法碰,请等待冷却后再加热,一个加热好的iOpener 应该可以保持热度十分钟

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - 回复

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 回复

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 回复

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - 回复

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - 回复

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - 回复

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - 回复

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - 回复

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - 回复

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 回复

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 回复

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 回复

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 回复

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.


    Karl Marble - 回复

    • 把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来,捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个避免碰到中心热的部分。

    • iOpener会非常烫,所以拿着它的时候千万要小心。必要的时候可以使用烤箱手套。

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - 回复

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - 回复

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 回复

    • 如果您的显示屏玻璃已经碎裂,防止显示屏玻璃在您维修时进一步伤害您,请使用胶带来固定已经碎裂的屏幕。

    • 给iPad 的正面整面贴上胶带。

      • 这一步将保证在您翘起和移除显示屏时能够保持完整。

    • 尽量根据下面的指南进行操作。但,一旦玻璃破碎,请停下拆解并使用金属撬刀撬出玻璃,避免更多的碎裂。

    • 戴上安全眼镜来保护你的眼睛。 小心操作不要损坏了LCD内屏。

    If you add clear packaging tape, it will create bubbles and the suction cup will become inefficient. To me it was impossible to remove the glass with the suction cup. Since the glass was very cracked, I had to resort to some tweaking with strong tape and pull the this off.

    jfmartin67 - 回复

    If your screen is significantly cracked to the left edge, abandon this entire setup, prepare yourself for a 5-6 hour repair, expect a lot of patience, a lot of cursing and some good old American ingenuity. The suction cup and picks will not work. You have to carefully crack the glass yourself (w/out damaging the panel underneath and carefully pull it apart from the inside to the outside edges. Use a hairdryer to soften the glue under the cracked panel along the edges. Then use an exacto-knife to separate the pieces of the glued panel from the frame body, all the way around the device. Watch out for the home button ribbon connector when using the exacto-knife. There will be glue residue left over, carefully apply some goo-gone to a small area of a paper towel and wipe gently around the frame body to loosen the glue. Then use the plastic spudger tool to scrape off the excess glue.

    The iPad repair is VERY difficult. If you are a working adult, hire a pro. This is not for the faint of heart.

    aaroncope - 回复

    The hairdryer option was way faster and easier than the iOpener. Be VERY careful not to damage the LCD- one small mistake will cost you an extra $100!

    Mike Martin -

    If your digitizer is shattered, the tape will help, but you’re going to need extra picks. Or a razor blade. See below.

    Blair Miller - 回复

    Friendly observation that the image on this step is actually of an older ipad model as the side bezels are far too big. I don't know if that matters to anybody but a noob might see it and think this manual doesn't apply to them. : )

    notalawyer - 回复

    I had the same experience. My glass was cracked all the way to the left side and the suction cup would not pull the glass up. The packaging tape also didn't help. The heat caused it to lift. I finally abandoned the tape, used a heat gun aimed very carefully at each broken piece of the screen. The picks did work with patience, but I just pulled off each broken part of the glass. I also found that pulling up on one broken part while heating in front of me would let the next piece pull up. I continued heating and breaking all the way around. Do the right side last. Took about 1 hour to get it off, and another hour to clean the old glue off the frame. BTW thanks to this web site and all the comments! No way I would have done this without all the help here! I am now clean and waiting for my new digitizer. I couldn't free the battery (below), so I left it powered up, and verified it till worked before throwing away the old glass. Vince

    Vince Asbridge - 回复

    Taping with package tape doesn't work. You'll need a very large piece of tape if you go this route.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    Just finished successful repair. I would add this: most folks will be here because of cracked screen. This is not easy; believe the 'complex' rating on this repair. I put tape on my screen because it was badly cracked. This made the suction cup useless, because it just sucked the tape off the scree.n. I used the razor blade technique which worked great, it should be used in the demo, and a good blade should be in the kit.

    dale kingsbury - 回复

    • 将iOpener放置在iPad左侧。也就是Home键左侧位置。

    • 将iOpener放置至少一分钟来软化玻璃下面的粘合剂。

    The iOpener doesn't work because the heat isn't strong enough. I used a hair dryer which proved to be much more efficient.

    jfmartin67 - 回复

    The iOpener didnt work for me either. seems like it gets hot enough but it must not. I spent 30 min with the iOpener, then tried a hair dryer.

    kinchma - 回复

    “At least a minute.” Bullshit. Get the iOpener good and hot, place it on the area you’re going to work on clear side down, and cover it with a towel. Walk away for 2 minutes. Make yourself a drink — you’ll need steady hands later.

    Blair Miller - 回复

    I've done this with an iOpener and at least in my case, it worked fine. You may have to modify the heating instructions though, since not all microwaves are created equal.

    Jeff Suovanen - 回复

    ii i just did this and it took a while but i figured it out it is true this thing doesnt get hot enough BUT heat it 2 times and then the 3rd time when u place it on the ipad put the ipad box on top and then maybe a second ipad on top of the box so it kinda smashes i down but not too much for it to break and then wait for it to turn warm THEN use the succion THEN the gap appears. the glue is super strong on the ipads so yea it will take some time lol

    Joel Tyson - 回复

    Doesn't work. Perhaps include more copy on exactly how to do it?

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    The iOpener does not work. It simply it is not hard enough to soften the glue. The heat hair dryer method does not work either.

    Javier Lozada - 回复

    The goal is simply to weaken the glue enough that you can use your suction cup to open up a tiny gap under the glass, so you can insert an opening pick and slice through the adhesive. It doesn't actually take all that much heat; the picks will do most of the work once you get them in there. iOpeners, hair dryers, heat guns all work fine in my experience—the iOpener is just a bit more foolproof because it won't get hot enough to cook the display panel underneath.

    Jeff Suovanen - 回复

    • 虽然iPad看起来是一体化高度集成的,但在玻璃面板下面有许多细小的部件,避免伤害那些部件,只能加热或撬动指南内所描述到的区域。

    • 在您按照本指南操作时,请小心下述区域。

      • 前置摄像头

      • 天线

      • 显示排线

    Don't assume anything!! I thought I was pulling on the screen connector and I was pulling on an antenna component instead. Didn't ruin its connection range but I sure remember doing it and now my iPad has a little internal flaw only I'm aware of.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    • 将吸盘小心的放在刚加热的一侧中间的位置。

      • 确保吸盘已经牢牢吸住前玻璃面板。

    • 使用一只手在固定住iPad,另一只手慢慢提起吸盘,将前玻璃面板与后壳分离。

    In this picture above, the glass isn't cracked at all so it helps the suction cup to be effective as it is hermetic. With cracked display, it won't work.

    jfmartin67 - 回复

    Suction cup would not work for me. No amount of heating with iOpener or hair dryer would allow even the slightest gap to form. I ended up looking at some YouTube videos and used a razor blade. I put the razor blade perpendicular to the top glass, right at the edge of the glass and pushed down until the blade went down 1/4". Then heated some more and pried up the glass enough to put in an opening pick. I spent a lot of time working with the suction cup. Glue was just too strong.

    kinchma - 回复

    It's funny that iFixit changed the image they used. Even they themselves realized how stupid it was to try a suction cup on taped up surface. C'mon guys! You should at least make foot notes for your readers and let them know what to do if the glass is already shattered. It's a slow methodical process that involves working with a iOpener type tool. I personally have one that looks like a prison shank (lol)

    Scott S - 回复

    Not sure what you are referring to there—I see no evidence in the document history of the photos having been changed. Suction cup + packing tape can work, but it depends how badly the glass is broken and the quality of the tape. Sometimes it takes a couple attempts. You can also skip the suction cup and try using tape alone to pull on the panel, if your tape is sticky enough. There are no guarantees though, which is why we have the disclaimer right in Step 4 that the procedure can be pretty fussy if you're working with a shattered panel. Depending on where it's broken and how badly, you're going to have to improvise.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Jeff, the change is evident from image 4, where all the surface is taped up. In this picture you show a clean not broken surface and yes, the suction cup works...

    Simone Gabbriellini -

    Ah, I see what you're saying! I can understand why you guys would assume that, but in reality the entire guide was originally photographed using an intact panel. We later added a step showing how to protect yourself if you have a shattered panel (with photos to go along with, obviously). I'm afraid it wouldn't be practical to re-shoot the entire guide every time we make a small change like that.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The suction cup is useless if your glass is shattered. Use a new, sharp razor blade, and insert it vertically between the edge of the glass and the metal back of the iPad. Don’t worry about pressing too hard — there’s a lip that stops the blade from going in too far and damaging anything. You’ll probably have to do this several times, but eventually the blade will “bite” into the edge of the glass well enough for you to pry it up. Insert a pick underneath the razor, then remove the razor and continue as directed.

    Blair Miller - 回复

    After having to read several comments on this screen removal and the clear packing tape, I too have to agree that the tape method does not work well at all if your screen is already shattered. I combined several methods, with lots of patience to remove the screen on my iPad Air 2. What I found it very helpful was the heat gun used for paint removal. The heat gun generates a lot of concentrated heat at lower air velocity, unlike generic hair dryer, so you must be very careful not to ruin the electronics, and risk burning your hands and anything around it. My heat gun that I purchased from Home Depot had a nozzle to direct and focus the heat on a small area. That was helpful in working small area at a time. This method work thoroughly well.

    Taiji Saotome - 回复

    It would work if you leave iopener in microwave for 1 minute.

    Don’t trust the instruction from ifixit.

    you can put iopener in microwave for 1 minute without any harm.

    Note. you have to make sure that it is in cold position before you put it into microwave.

    phongsiri nirachornkul - 回复

    Suction cup didn’t work for me either, went the razor blade route (using an exacto knife blade) with very minimal damage to the aluminum shell. Be warned, if your screen has cracked along the edge (as it almost 100% certainly has if you’re reading this guide), the screen will continue to shatter and splinter as you make your way around the edge. That’s when having the screen taped up well will be to your advantage. There’s also a good chance you’ll have to re-insert the razor blade on the other side of a fracture and start the lifting process again, but keep going, being sure to avoid the points called out in this guide and you should be fine.

    Also, do not apply the suction cup to an area of the screen with cracks and no tape. If you’re near the edge you run the risk of brutally shattering that area of the glass if the glass gives before the suction cup.

    Micah Sledge - 回复

    In order to get this to work for me I had to heat the IOpener to over 104 C - I needed to get the screen over 40 C before the adhesive would loosen.

    Also I had to put the ipad on a towel - the granite countertop it was on was sucking the heat out too fast.

    Jack Williams - 回复

    This step was brutal on my nerves - read about too many people ruining their iOpener and I don’t have a heat gun. I had to keep heating the iOpener incrementally hoping I wouldn’t pop it. … but if you’re patient, persistent, and cautious, you can definitely tell when you’re seeing separation. The iOpener ended up being WAY hotter than 30 seconds was getting me - borderline scorching my hands.

    William Thompson - 回复

    • 在刚刚打开的缝隙处放置一个撬片。

      • 切勿将撬片插入深度超过黑色边框,这样深入过度可能会使LCD屏幕受损。

    • 然后取下吸盘。


    • 再次加热iOpener然后放置在刚才的位置。

      • 小心,请勿在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。 在重新加热iOpener之前请至少等待10分钟。

    This says "Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener", however the iOpener itself has a warning printed upon it that says wait at least 10 minutes. And that 10 minutes warning is also mentioned in Step 2 above.

    Scott - 回复

    Sorry about that! We fixed the text on this step. The two-minute interval was for an older version of the iOpener—the text printed on your iOpener will have the correct interval, which is indeed ten minutes. It can burst if overheated or reheated too quickly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • 沿着第一个撬片的开的口处插入另外一个翘片同时向下滑动,让撬片分离粘合剂。

    You guys really need to show how it's done when your iPad isn't perfect like the one pictured above.. C'mon..

    Scott S - 回复


    Corey Barcus -

    How do you slide the picks when the glass is broken? Even with the glass taped, it pulls away from the tape rather than the housing. I've just further shattered the glass with my attempts.

    chrisweiler - 回复

    • 继续沿着下方继续滑动来将粘合剂分离。

    • 如果撬片卡住了,请沿着iPad的侧面滚动撬片,然后继续进行分离工作。

    This gives a false illusion to the difficulty of these repairs when you guys make guides using perfect devices. What about devices with dinged corners? A reader is gonna slap on a new screen and shatter it the second they apply pressure thinking it will fit into a dented corner lol

    Scott S - 回复

    • 将第一个插入iPad的撬片向上滑动到iPad的左上角

    • 撬片可能会出现图片上的情况,请不要慌张。 只需将撬片拉出一点点来继续进行维修工作。 但要避免这种情况,因为粘合剂可能会粘附在LCD显示屏上变得难以清理。

    I managed to get a couple of fingerprints on the LCD.

    What's the best way to clean 'em off?

    What's the safest way?

    Mike McIntosh - 回复

    What I’ve read, and seems to work, is gentle circular pressure with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth. Lacking that, use a TINY drop of water ON THE CLOTH, not on the LCD. Small amounts of alcohol can be used, in my experience, but only if the above don’t work, and with better results if used in small amounts and applied to the cloth, not the LCD.

    Bonnie Baxter - 回复

    • 重新加热iOpener 并将其放置在iPad顶部边缘位置且高于前置摄像头。

      • 小心,请勿在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。 在重新加热iOpener之前请至少等待10分钟。

    • 如果您有可以弯折的iOpener,您可以弯折其使其同时加热左上角边缘位置。


    • 在左顶部插入撬片来分离粘合剂。


    • 滑动撬片直到快接近前置摄像头位置时停下

    • 第三张图片展示了iPad前置摄像头的位置。

      • 避免使用撬片直接滑过前置摄像头,这样做可能会污损到摄像头。 接下来的步骤将会详细说明如何避免损伤前置摄像头。


    • 轻轻拉出些许撬片,并沿着前置摄像头顶部位置慢慢的滑动。


    • 将刚才那片撬片稍微滑过前置摄像头然后放在原位不动。

    • 拿另一片撬片插入到摄像头的左侧位置然后滑动到转角位置,完成对该边缘部分的粘合剂分离工作。


    • 将刚才那片撬片稍微深入iPad之中,从摄像头处滑动到右上角。


    • 将撬片放在原位,以防粘合剂再次粘连。

    • 重新加热iOpener将其放在有锁定和音量按钮一侧。


    • 滑动右上角的撬片,分离那部分的粘合剂。

    • 将这个撬片就放在这,防止粘合剂重新粘连。 重新拿一个撬片来进行下一步。


    • 在右侧插入一个新的撬片来分离粘合剂,滑动到中部位置时停下。

    • 显示排线大约位于iPad底部到顶部一半的位置。 当您从底部向上滑动撬片大概4.5"(约11.43cm)位置时请停止滑动。

    Why there’s such an obsession with not damaging the cables is beyond me. Be careful, so as not to damage what the cables are connected to. But the cables are part of the replacement digitizer, so if you nick or even slice through them (like I did with the one closest to the bottom) don’t worry about it.

    Blair Miller - 回复

    Keep in mind that some people are here to open an intact display to replace internal components! In those cases, keeping the cables un-harmed is quite important ;)

    Sam Lionheart -

    My digitizer WAS ok and I was only replacing the battery I wasn't careful enough when coming around the side with the pics and got a hold of the cable just enough with the pic to pull it off the underside of the panel. The battery replacement went great other than now I have to replace the digitizer. :(


    Dylan Bouterse - 回复

    And if you are replacing the digitizer, you have to reuse the fingerprint sensor home button. I sliced through mine and now I’ll not have fingerprint sensor. Each home button is matched to the main board and if switched out you will loose that sensor ability.

    David - 回复

    • 就把撬片放在停下的位置,然后重新加热iOpener然后放置在iPad的底部。


    • 滑动左下边的撬片来分离粘合剂。

    • 滑动到左下角时停止滑动。 然后放置在此。

    • 第三张图片展示了在iPad 下方的2个天线和Home键

      • 接下来的步骤将会指导您如何避免伤害这些部件。 只加热和撬动指南所指示的部位。


    • 将原撬片放置在原位,以防粘合剂重新粘合。

    • 拿一片新的撬片,轻轻的从左天线处滑动到home键前。

      • 只能从iPad外边缘向内滑动 请勿按照相反方向滑动 这样可能会损坏天线。

      • 如果您需要再次滑动来清理粘合剂,请取出撬片然后从外边缘重新插入再向内滑动。

    • 将撬片放置不动。


    • 拿一片新的撬片来从刚才那片撬片右边继续滑动。

    • 滑过Home键和右侧天线。只使用尖端来去除粘合剂。


    • 随着粘合剂的松动,您现在可以将撬片插入右下角了。

      • 就和左侧一样,相反方向的滑动可能会损伤天线。

    I think you’re missing a step here where you explicitly direct the reader to slide the pick from the bottom right corner towards the home button.

    Fin Hirschoff - 回复

    • 重新加热iOpener 并将其放置在有音量按键的一侧。


    • 请小心操作本步骤。 花点时间来确保粘合剂是热并柔软的,并且您已经使用撬片打开了所有开口。 以及不要害怕停止和重新加热。

    • 在音量控制侧面相反的那一面,你应该确保那一面的每个角都已插入撬片。 旋转撬片然后轻轻提起玻璃面板,沿着显示屏排线边缘清理掉最后的粘合剂。

    • 如果在此步骤遇到很大的阻力难以撬起屏幕请重新加热iOpener 然后将其放置在难以撬起的区域。

    You will end up having to scrape the outter ledge to remove the old screen. I bled and got glass shards everywhere. Good luck!

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    • 慢慢的提起玻璃面板,来进一步分离粘合剂。


    • 在支起玻璃面板的同时,用撬片分离掉最后的粘合剂。

    • 一定要小心操作,不要切割或损坏任何显示排线。


    • 一旦粘合剂全部分离掉,就像打开书一样将玻璃面板放在工作台上。

    • 要重新组装时 使用异丙醇清理掉残留的粘合剂,并使用预切割好的粘合胶带来替代去除掉的粘合剂。

    • 再重新组装时,iPad框架和玻璃面板很容易夹住排线,请小心操作将他们轻轻折叠在框架下方,如果操作过当造成损伤那么就会超出你的维修能力。

    my replacement digitizer has rigid flex with adhesive tape where the connectors extend. how does this “fold” back inside the frame?

    David - 回复

    • 剥离固定LCD屏幕螺丝上的胶带。


    • 拆下固定LCD屏幕的Phillips #00螺丝。

      • 3个4.0 mm螺丝

      • 1个4.8 mm螺丝

    Use the provided replace screen case's square compartments to place your screws into as you remove them. Really helpful and you likely won't mess up.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    I tape a stripe of double sided tape on my workbench. You can place the screws on the tape on the location where the screw would be if it was in the screen assembly. In this step, your screws would be in the four corners of the tape stripe, with the longest screw (4,8mm) in the upper left corner. The other screws from the next steps can also be placed on the tape this way.

    Brecht Bocket - 回复

  3. 传播 Fixmas 欢乐
    Get $12 off your purchase of $50 or more with code FIXMAS12
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    • 因为LCD屏幕任然在Home键附近有许多排线与iPad Air主体相连,切勿尝试完全的将LCD屏移开。 仅可从前置摄像头尾端处抬起屏幕。

    • 使用撬棒扁平的一段来从前置摄像头一边撬起一道可以让你手指抓住LCD 屏幕的缝隙。

    • 从前置摄像头处提起iPad Air 的LCD屏幕,就像翻书一样将它翻转到Home键一侧。

      • 小心驶得万年船,切勿操之过急。在您进行翻转的时候请同时盯着LCD排线。

    • 放下LCD屏幕,以便来处理LCD的排线。

      • 请将LCD屏幕放置在柔软、干净、无绒的表面。

    Got a cracked screen from toddler stepping on the iPad. My repair went well, everything worked. Except I scratched the LCD. It seems to scratch easily.

    At this step, be careful when folding over the screen, as it may scratch on the aluminum frame (third picture). When they say “soft lint free surface” that is needed, specifically where the LCD meets the frame. Place a thin cloth like sunglass cleaning cloth over the edge of the frame.

    Cobus de Beer - 回复

    • 取下固定电池排线到逻辑板的2.3 mm Phillips #000 螺丝

    • 为了降低短路的风险,您可以使用电池隔离撬片来断开电池与逻辑板的连接。

      • 将电池隔离撬片插入电池连接部位的下方,并将其放在此位置。

    after inserting the tab between the battery, im having an issue with the battery taking a charge. charging port sees a cord plugged in, but this connection between battery and logic board is gone. any ideas?

    Matt - 回复

    Hi were u able to fix this issue? I accidentally fried out the shield that secured the battery connector..now the ipad wont turn on :(

    Drew -

    Not having the isolation pick, I used 2 thin guitar picks instead, which did the job fine.

    goodcyning - 回复

    I couldn't disconnect the battery connector - I applied some force, nothing happened and I was afraid of applying too much force - so I just left it connected and I was very careful not to short out any terminals with metal tools. I completed the repair without any other issues and the iPad now seems to be working fine.

    Peter Gray - 回复

    A little explanation here would be nice. Also, there wasn't a battery isolation pick in my kit. You should address this.

    dougintexas - 回复

    Mine was missing. Made one with scissors but still didn't do the trick. I just worked with the batteries still plugged in.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    Couldn’t get the battery terminal disconnected so I continued with repair. I didn’t short anything but now it won’t do anything. It worked before, just a cracked glass to replace. Any solutions?

    Tech-ER - 回复

    • 取下3个显示排线支架上的1.4 mm Phillips #000 螺丝。


    • 使用撬棒扁平一段来将支架从逻辑板上撬起。

    • 显示屏的排线就在支架下方,因此请勿将撬棒深入过深,这样可能会损坏排线。

    bough my digitizer from ebay and have everything done up to this step. The screwdriver the kit came with said to be a #000 but it stripped the screw on the plate... I have tried rubber bands, tape and paper to no avail...anyone got an idea on how to remove the screw. Also I am currently studying in St. Kitts and they lack some products found in the US.

    originalpaintballpanda2 - 回复

    I'm sure you've moved past this by now, but I've had some success with stripped screws using a comparable, if slightly larger flathead screwdriver. The screwdrivers that come in those kits tend to suck quite a lot... iFixit actually has a guide for stripped screws: How to Remove a Stripped Screw

    goodcyning -

    Does anyone know where I could purchase a replacement display cable bracket?

    gwarren - 回复

    Note:Be rly carefule with unplugin homebutton-connection.

    The plug-connection (Homebutton) is not similar to the plug connections the basic-plugs got.

    The homeputton-plug-connection is sensetiv and cant unplug easly.

    IPad - 回复

    • 取下LCD显示屏。

    Andddddd continue this iFix folks! It's not a matter of working backwards. Most people must have cracked screens and end up having to rip the screen off and won't have a chance to inspect connections.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    • 拆下覆盖home键带状电缆连接器的任何胶带。


    • 使用撬棒的扁平端将home键带状电缆ZIF连接器向上翻转。

    • 小心地把home键带状线缆从ZIF连接器中拉出来

    I got through the repair, only to have the new screen give me problems that I can not find solutions to any where. The digitizer is working on its own without my input, it will start apps, switch windows, etc. I have pulled up the new screen and checked my ribbons and cables seem to be fine. ANY IDEAS??

    Moses Roman - 回复

    Moses Roman

    Same exact problem that I have. I think it has something to do with the glass touching the ipad. Something like on the iPad mini, where you had to cover some areas beside the home button.

    I would love to see a real solution, as im stuck with unhappy customers and frustrated me :)

    Bilal Kinali - 回复

    I had mine replaced TWICE by a local repair shop. Soon noticed both times that the iPad would soon go haywire after a few minutes use with random clicks, ghost typing, opening apps, etc.

    The iPad Air's such a poor quality, un-durable product anyway. I only had my screen replaced in the first place because it cracked with no apparent drop or trauma and Apple wouldn't replace.

    daviddesignbristol - 回复

    I have also the same issue, does anyone know what the problem is?

    Please give us some feedback.

    Elektromic - 回复

    Have seen this with multiple repairs where the digitizer was replaced. In each case it was a problem with the digitizer cables where it gets tucked under the glass near the edge of the frame. Not yet sure if they are badly made digitizers or if the cable gets damaged trying to tuck it under frame during installation.

    RayM - 回复

    To avoid the digi sending the ipad crazy. In the same way you tape the copper/silver edges on the back of the glass for the iPad Mini. You tape all the way around, making sure not to dirty the protective cover when placing back down after taping one edge.

    Make sure all the metal surround is cover by tape, but careful not too go over the edges too much. It will be visible when using the device.

    Like i said earlier, the real skill is not too dirty the screen when lifting the protective sheet.

    Have fun!

    Josh - 回复

    Thanks man, I'll give it a try. Any idea what kind of tape should I buy?

    Luis Tamborrell -

    Kapton tape otherwise known as heat tape or polyamide tape

    Neil Davis -

    • 使用撬棒的扁平端或指甲将两个数字转换器电缆连接器从它们的插座中直接弹出。

    • 为了避免损坏iPad,只能在连接器上撬动,而不能翘逻辑板上的插座。


    • 小心地将被粘合剂固定到后壳上的home键带状连接线缆剥下。

    THIS PICTURE IS PERFECT AND PERTANANT TO THE NEXT STEP REGARDING “GHOST OR PHANTOM TOUCH” - See that foam around the edges? For some reason, the ifixit replacement digitizer doesn’t come with it (but it does come with new adhesive applied already.) With your screen, also purchase their “tesa tape” : Tesa 61395 Tape / 4 mm - it comes in different widths fyi. I choose 4mm as advised by a staff member.

    scottgogos - 回复

    • 移除前面板组件

    • 在组装过程中,擦拭前面板组件上任何的灰尘和指纹,确保显示屏干净。

    • 如果您的新屏幕遇到“幽灵”或“幻影”触摸输入问题,可以通过在面板背面的标注区域粘贴一层非常薄的绝缘胶带,例如Kapton (聚酰亚胺)胶带,来解决这个问题。 iFixit面板具有良好的绝缘性,不需要粘贴任何胶带。

      • 若无适当的绝缘措施,数字转换器的这些区域可能会与其他组件接地,导致触摸输入故障。

      • 这些绝缘材料是肉眼不可见的,这与许多iPad上的泡沫防尘条不同。

    In your conclusion, which doesn't have a comments area, you say to reverse the procedure - simple enough, BUT what about the sticky adhesive residue along the edges of the (a) the just-remove-glass (if re-using) and (b) along the 'inside' edges of the iPad chassis? Typically Apple says to remove the adhesive residue (careful) with alcohol wipes (lint free & 98% isopropyl). Thanks for the instructions!

    Joe Kazura - 回复

    the hardest part of this repair for me is actually aligning the ribbons (especially on the aftermarket version) so they don't jumble and cause the glass to mush away from the adhesive leaving a gap. Would would be very helpful to see how to fold the ribbon cables back on the aftermarket digitizers. They are slightly different than the originals, or at least they appear different. This repair is super useful but we could really use a step 44 because re-assembly has a sequence and a folding technique.

    TJ Hellmuth - 回复

    The ribbon cable is a little tricky to figure out. But if you look closely at the old ( Broken) screen you will see they stick to the underside of the screen thin the remaining ribbon slides down into the ipad between the display and ipads frame.

    I used a heat gun and suction cups to loosen screen.

    This was a very good ifix ii

    Rowell - 回复

    Reassemble huh? What about how to move the home button to the new panel?

    xsubguy - 回复

    It is not as simple as reverse disassembly steps, the ribbon cables need to be tucked into the pocket on the side of the iPad. There is tape on them that has to adhere to the side of the digitizer too. Mine did not make it all the way down into the gap, and stuck on the other adhesive, now I have a gap by these two cables. To tuck these into this area is difficult at best. I now need to remove the glass, hoping it does not shatter and purchase more tape.

    Other than this the task was not bad.. BTW: YES People use the capton tape

    Randall Hooper - 回复

    I’ve read that people are putting glue at each corner. I haven’t figured out what glue. One person said Glue Dot 1” 16lb, another said rubber cement, 1 video shows 5 min epoxy… Heard that some sort of glue (not super glue) needs to be used to avoid the glass lifting later on. And to use 3m red tape along the edges. I’ve been searching for which glue because I still have an ipad air to do screen replacement on.

    tsolorio - 回复

    Would be helpful if the tape were listed in the master supplies for the guide. I got the whole kit overnighted, but then had to wait a week to get the tape from Amazon (since I wasn’t going to shell out another $50 for overnight shipping). Otherwise, it’d be nice to know if the displays through iFix it included the foam or not—mine didn’t.

    Micah Sledge - 回复

    Second the concern about the foam. I bought the full repair kit, but was surprised there wasn’t already polyimide tape on the digitizer or in the kit. At least mention that it needs to be purchased extra.

    Ronny Barlow - 回复

    @baron9 The displays we sell have the proper insulation and don’t require any tape. That note is more for folks who use our guides while buying the parts from somewhere else. (They tend to complain here, even though it’s the part that’s at fault, not the guide.) I’ve updated the instructions to try to make things a little more clear. Sorry about that!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • 撬下接近 iPad 的天线电缆和用向上的力拔下天线电缆连接器的边缘。

    Skip to the step 98 or even 100 if you just need to replace the power button - I think you should even consider this to replace volume buttons. I am fixing mine right now and screwed up the speaker cable. I did follow the instruction but totally missed the cable right below the tape. I proceeded further, but I just realized I didn't have to go through all the troubles. I wish ifixit.com can manage this type of direction clearly so that dis-assembly is minimum.

    msgfromside3 - 回复

    After you replace the Digitizer if you are getting random key presses it is likely to be because Kapton tape has not been applied to the edges of the digitizer. You need to cover the silver strip around the edge of the digitizer with kapton tape before reassembling. Works every time.

    Richard - 回复

    This is my first ipad and when the battery dies, it will be my last, way overrated and no options like memory cards or mini usb ports, and the battery thing is ridiculous,I wish I would have never bought this knowing this stuff , and way over priced.

    Gary - 回复

    It always helps to Google something before buying it. "iPad Air reviews" in Google would have saved you. I just find it funny how in this day and age, people STILL make "purchase mistakes" because they didn't take the time to research the several-hundred-dollar device they are about to commit to purchasing. You should have seen the amounts of research I did before buying my $1,399 Asus G751JY laptop. I'm absolutely pleased with it and am happy I don't deal with issues other people have. Just be weary, buddy. ALWAYS GOOGLE.

    Scott S -

    If you just want to replace the battery, skip to step 99. You can easily get to most sides of the battery without removing all other components. It worked for me. Good luck!

    Thomas Van den Dries - 回复

    • 有两个大块的胶带缠右天线电缆,将它们固定到后方。

    • 这样来撕

      • 同时剥皮天线磁带,放在天线电缆的地方来协助重新组装上。


    • 天线线缆会被一个小金属支架与扬声器固定在一起。支架会永久的和天线卷在一起并且与扬声器粘在一起。

    • 小心的在扬声器与天线线缆支架之间插入一个拨片。

    • 向home键方向滑动来去除胶水的作用。

    • 清楚下面的胶水后,把支架从扬声器上拿开。

    The pick was not thin enough but the razor worked.

    Moon & Snow - 回复

    • 移除以下固定右天线的 Phillips #000 螺丝。

      • 一个2.3 mm的螺丝

      • 两个1.4 mm 螺丝


    • 在天线和扬声器模组之间插入撬棒平的一端。

    • 把撬棒向home键反向滑动来去除固定天线的泡沫胶水。


    • 从iPad上移除右天线。


    • 在左边天线下面插入一根撬棒,向上撬起来分离天线连接器。


    • 左边扬声器天线有五片胶布盖着接口。

    • 从后机壳把胶布揭起来。

    • 把天线拉出来。


    • 扬声器电线弯折过来使得把天线拉出来很困难。

    • 另外,把胶布沿偏离机壳的方向拉出来。

      • 使用镊子要小心——仅仅抓住并分离胶布,而不是下面的电线。


    • 把胶布朝着 Home 键的防线分离来揭开扬声器接口。


    • 使用撬棒尖头一端把扬声器电线接口翻出来。

    • 滑动扬声器电线,滑出 ZIF 接口。


    • 移除固定扬声器到后机壳的胶带。


    • 仔细地从后机壳剥离 LCD 胶带。


    • 移除 2.2 mm 菲利普斯 #000 号固定扬声器到后机壳的螺丝。


    • 后后机壳角落,插入指甲或撬棒平头的一端。

    • 把扬声器拉离机壳角落。

    It is really not necessary to remove either speakers for a logic board swap.

    sergeymkl - 回复

    • 使用撬棒来帮助从后机壳边缘拉出扬声器。

    • 从 iPad 移除右边扬声器。


    • 移除3个 1.4 mm 菲利普斯 #000 号螺丝,这些螺丝是固定上部电线支架的。


    • 移除上部电线支架。

    • 如果你拥有 Wi-Fi 或 数据款,你的 iPad 会稍微长得不一样点。会有额外的两个螺丝在上面。


    • 有2段胶贴把左边的天线固定在后盖上。

    • 用镊子把胶贴从后盖上撕下。


    • 小心的在扬声器外壳和天线电缆支架之间插入一个拨片。

    • 将拨片滑向 home 按钮以切割粘合剂。

    • 将支架推离扬声器,直至其下面的条带脱离。


    • 拧下这些十字 #000 螺丝:

      • 两个 1.4 毫米螺丝

      • 一个 2.3 毫米螺丝

    I didn’t need to take the left antenna and speaker out. If you just get the wire and tape out of the way so you can unplug the speaker flex cables and take out the lightning connector, then you should still be able to get the logic board out. the left speaker isn’t in the way at all.

    Reed Deemer - 回复

    • 将撬棒的平端插入天线和扬声器组件之间。

    • 将撬棒向 home 键滑动以切割固定天线的泡沫粘合剂。


    • 将 iPad 上的左天线移除。


    • 撕下左扬声器电缆连接器上的胶带。


    • 使用撬棒的尖端来翻转左扬声器电缆连接器上的固定挡板。


    • 将扬声器电缆从 ZIF 连接器上拉出。


    • 取下在后壳上固定扬声器的胶带。


    • 拧下在后壳上固定扬声器的 2.2 毫米十字 #000 螺丝。


    • 轻轻地将左侧扬声器带状电缆向上翻开,以便在将扬声器外壳拉出时将电池拿出。


    • 将指甲或撬棒平端插入扬声器外壳凹槽内,靠近后壳角部的位置。

    • 从角里向下把扬声器拉出来。


    • 用撬棒辅助把扬声器从后壳中拉出来。

    • 从 iPad 上取下左扬声器。


    • 使用撬棒平端将前置摄像头连接器从电路板上断开。

      • 只在连接器上撬,不在插座本身上。

    • 将前置摄像头电缆翻起。

      • 金色电缆触点之间有一点导电胶。 在重新组装期间,务必施加压力以再次黏接这些触点。


    • 用撬棒的平端把电路板上的后置摄像头连接器断开。

      • 只在连接器上撬,不在插座本身上。

    • 将后置摄像头电缆翻起。


    • 用撬棒的平端将耳机插孔连接器从电路板上断开。

      • 只撬开连接器,不在插座上。

      • 新版的 iPad 设备有一圈胶带连接电路板上的插座。必须断开该胶带才能断开耳机插孔。

    • 将耳机插孔电缆翻折起来。


    • 用撬棒的扁平端将麦克风电缆连接器从电路板上断开。

      • 只撬开连接器,不在插座上。


    • 撕下覆盖上部按钮组件电缆连接器上的所有胶带。


    • 用撬棒的尖端去翻开上部按钮组件电缆连接器上的固定盖。


    • 将上部按钮组件的电缆从 ZIF 连接器上滑出。


    • 卸下固定 Lightning 端口上的两个 3.3 毫米十字#000 螺丝。

    NOTE for others who might miss this: this picture is looking down, out the bottom of the iPad. There are four other screws near the lightning port, two for the speakers and two for the port. You see these four easily, looking down at the battery and motherboard. These two are additional to those, and perpendicular to them. Both pairs of lightning port screws, one set perpendicular to the other, must be removed.

    Bonnie Baxter - 回复

    Where did the battery blocker go? It was introduced in step 35. Nowhere has it been said it can be removed . . . yet it is now absent in this picture. I took it out when I got to steps 93-96.

    Randy Burgess - 回复

    • 在接下来的几步,你将会使用到 iOpener 来加热 iPad 底部来软化主板的黏胶。

    • 当你重新加热,并把 iOpener 放到这些位置的时候,请保持至少一分钟,来软化黏胶。

    • 黏胶是六个泡沫形式的胶带 ——如果你需要知道它们的位置,请参考这个步骤。


    • 把加热过的 iOpener 放在后置摄像头那端,使之停留至少一分钟。

      • 时间越长越好,只是你可能需要重新加热 iOpener。


    • 当你完成之后几个步骤的时候,撬开固定的黏胶。如果不行,重新加热 iOpener 放到后盖后面。

    • 仔细地在主板下插入一个开机撬片,前置摄像头和电池之间。

    • 向前置摄像头接口那边滑动撬片,停在主板弯曲的地方。


    • 在主板下面滑动撬片,从前置摄像头到后置摄像头的方向。


    • 把加热的 iOpener 放在 iPad 底端。

      • 再一次,让 iOpener 放在后壳底部黏胶处至少一分钟。


    • Lightning 接口电线用粘合剂粘在外壳上。要分离粘合剂,你将滑动电线和外壳之间的开口。小心不要切断 Lightening 电线本身。

    • 在 Lightning 电线下面与逻辑板相连处插入一个撬片。

    • 将撬片向下滑动并绕过电线的弯曲处。


    • 继续滑动撬片,到电线弯曲到 Lightening 接口之前停止。

    • 慢慢小心地移动。如果撬片不容易滑动,请加热,然后重试。如果用力过度,可能会滑过并切断 Lightning 接口电线。


    • 最后,在电池和 Lightning 接口之间滑动撬片,以分离电线下面的最后一些粘合剂。

    There are two screws holding the lightning connector to the rear case, I didn’t see them in this guide. I recommend removing them before you attempt to remove the lightning connector, otherwise you’ll look like an idiot struggling with it for around 1/2 an hour like I just did.

    Will Young - 回复

    Will Young is correct. The two extra screws are horizontal - they are in addition to the vertical screws mentioned in step 82.

    Randy Burgess - 回复

    • 从后盖直接拉出 Lightning 接口。

    there were two screws holding the lightening connector in place on my iPad

    Nate Czupinski - 回复

    Yep! In this guide those screws are removed in Step 82, but you can remove them at any point prior to taking out the Lightning connector.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • 将加热的iOpener放在后壳的左侧,主板粘合处。

      • 让 iOpener 至少放置一分钟,以便通过后壳软化粘合剂。


    • 将塑料撬棒插入主板上部区域的矩形间隙中,然后从后壳上撬起主板。

    • 将塑料撬棒保持在主板下方时,将其沿着间隙的长边滑动,以将主板的上端从粘合剂中撬开。


    • 在矩形间隙的下边缘,在EMI屏蔽板附近撬起主板。

    • 缓慢提起主板的一端。如果遇到重大阻力,请停止撬动并重新使用 iOpener 融化粘合剂。


    • 在主板和电池之间滑动一个撬片。

    • 将撬片从基座滑动到主板的中心,以切割粘合剂。

    • 注意撬片不要切断电池;被刺破的电池会非常危险。如果遇到阻力,请重新加热并使用iOpener。


    • 滑动并提起主板长的一边。

    • 一旦粘合剂被切断了,撬动主板上电池的一边,脱离后壳。

    Don't touch the small components which are under the motherboard !!! If you do it your iPad is definitively dead.

    Easy Repair - 回复

    • 继续沿着靠近电池的边缘提起主板,直到可以在主板的另外一边上得到开口。

    • 剪下将主板外缘固定在后壳上的粘合剂。


    • 移除 iPad 主板。

    Nice guide, thank you, very helpful. There would be no way to guess where the glue stripes are located and a couple of connectors are very difficult to spot. I don't see any need to remove the antennas and the speakers though, they are not really an obstacle to remove the board and can be left in place. The lightning connector is secured in place by two other two horizontal screws which are not shown in the guide.

    Thanks again !

    arbaman - 回复

    This is a bear of a job, and I wouldn’t have had any hope of completing it without this guide. THANK YOU for all your hard work!!!!

    Bonnie Baxter - 回复






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Sam Lionheart


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I have Problem to disconect the accu from mainboard.

Have you got i idea for me?

Thank you very much for answer

christian - 回复



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