简介

使用本指南更换iPad的电池。

如果您的显示屏玻璃已经碎裂,防止显示屏玻璃在您维修时进一步伤害您,请使用胶带来固定已经碎裂的屏幕。
  • 如果您的显示屏玻璃已经碎裂,防止显示屏玻璃在您维修时进一步伤害您,请使用胶带来固定已经碎裂的屏幕。

  • 给iPad 的正面整面贴上干净的打包胶带。

    • 这一步将保证在您翘起和移除显示屏时能够保持完整。

  • 尽量根据下面的指南进行操作。但,一旦玻璃破碎,请停下拆解并使用金属撬刀撬出玻璃,避免更多的碎裂。

  • 戴上安全眼镜来保护你的眼睛。 小心操作不要损坏了LCD内屏。

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在显示屏组件和后壳之间的顶部插入金属撬棒。
  • 在显示屏组件和后壳之间的顶部插入金属撬棒。

  • 抬起撬棒来释放显示屏顶角的卡扣。

  • 在顶角处显示屏和后壳之间插入第二根金属撬棒,防止卡扣自动归位。

Tip* "ONLY WITH METAL SPUDGER* heat it with a lighter till its warm to touch, then slide it like a butter knife. it reduces chances of chipping glass.

luckie - 回复

I've found that by using a thicker iPad tool dents the back less(not at all if your careful) and start prying just under the volume button and working my way down works better as the metal clips are on all sider except the right side.

richard - 回复

It would be really helpful to point out where all the clips and tabs are, and to show a picture of them (unbroken), so you know what you're trying to release.

Styg - 回复

  • 使用一个撬棒来在iPad的右边沿工作。

  • 前面板被顶部底部和左侧的金属卡扣与铝制背板相固定。 右侧为塑料卡扣在身处固定。。

  • 一旦卡扣被释放,将前面板的左侧向上提起,然后开始撬动左侧,来释放与后铝制面板之间的卡扣。

Its seems easier to undo the clips on the left and bottom by levering them with an iPad tool and pusing the clips in from the edge with another tool when i can visually see them. One the right side, bottom and most of the left side is done there isnt much need to do the top as it will slide off if moved about a centimeter

richard - 回复

  • 从后面板组件的底部提起显示屏组件。

  • 现在切勿尝试移除显示屏,它仍与后面板组件相连。

By it's BOTTOM edge.

jonathan - 回复

  • 在接下来几步中,您将要断开三条将显示屏与逻辑板相连的排线。 线缆是下列几种:

    • 数字化线缆

    • 光感传感器

    • 显示数据线

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  • 使用塑料打开工具来翻转挡板来解锁固定在逻辑板插座上的数字化线缆。

  • 确保您撬动的是挡板而不是插座本身。

  • 将数字化线缆直接从插座中拉出

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  • 从插座中使用塑料打开工具来轻轻地撬起光线感应传感器插头。

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  • 从主板中翻转金属固定器,断开显示数据线缆与主板的连接。

  • 从插座中拉出线缆。

  • 将插头平行于逻辑板的表面上拉出。

IMHO, unhooking data display cable from the other end is preferable to the above location, since the cable itself is sealed or taped onto the assembly.

Roger Buttermore - 回复

  • 从后壳上移除显示组件。

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  • 使用塑料打开工具撬开边缘:

    • 从侧面的电线上将侧按钮从逻辑板上取下。

    • 将扬声器从扬声器导线下方的逻辑板上的插座上拔下。

  • 小心地将ZIF带状电路保持盖翻转在耳机插孔附近的插座上。

  • 确保你正在撬起挡板,而不是插座本身。

  • 将耳机插孔带状电路拉向iPad的左侧,以将其与插座断开连接。

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  • 卸下将逻辑板固定到后面板上的以下螺丝。

    • 两颗4.56 mm T5 梅花螺丝。

    • 两颗3.76mm T5 梅花螺丝。

确定是T5吗,为什么在这个拆解里是写T4,我都糊涂了

WiFi版iPad (初代)拆解

keeeeeep - 回复

  • 使用塑料打开工具的边缘,将对接电路直接从逻辑板上垂直向上翘起。

  • 将逻辑板从后面板中取出。

Hello, what kind of adhesive should i use when i put the new battery?

Helyousa - 回复

  • 卸下将扬声器组件固定到后面板组件上的两个2.84 mm T5 梅花螺丝。

  • 卸下将卡座电缆的中间固定到后面板组件上单个T5 梅花螺丝。

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  • 卸下将底座连接器电缆固定到后壳上的两个2.84 mm T5 梅花螺丝。

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  • 使用塑料打开工具,小心取下塑料盖和屏蔽WiFi /蓝牙板和对接电缆。

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  • 仔细地从Wi-Fi /蓝牙板上各自的插座上撬起Wi-Fi和蓝牙天线。

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  • 将底座电缆提出后面板组件。

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  • 将扬声器电缆从电池盒左侧取下。

  • 通过扬声器组件中的通道将Wifi天线解除路由。

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  • 提起扬声器组件并向前推直到端口清除下壳体的底部。

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  • 电池通过过量的粘合剂固定在后面板上。 继续耐心和谨慎。

  • 使用撬棒的平头端轻轻地从下壳体撬起电池。

  • 轻轻地通过摆动撬棒并沿着电池右侧运行来扩大间隙。

  • 继续撬动直到电池的右侧脱离后面板。

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  • 将电极的顶部边缘上的平头端插入电池,并继续分离粘合剂。

  • 继续这样做,直到电池的顶部脱离后面板。

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  • 当有足够的间隙时,用手把仍然被粘合剂固定在后盖上的电池分离出来。

  • 从后面板上取出电池。

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结论

要重新组装您的设备,请按照该指南并按照相反的顺序重新组装。

81等其他人完成本指南。

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make sure when putting back together to push down the digitizer clasps

zach - 回复

Tried this with 2 ebay "OEM" cheapo batteries. Both failed- wouldn't charge, reboot every few minutes.

Solution: Dissected both new and original batteries. Snipped out old LI-ION cells from original Apple battery pack frame. Soldered new LI-ON cells into original battery frame.

Success!

The battery pack includes both LI-ION cells and an small circuit board. The cheapo replacement battery packs don't work (with newer IOS versions? are they actively blocking 3rd party battery replacements?)

Using the circuit board from the original battery pack with new LI-ION cells seems to fix everything.

Be ready to peel off a lot of adhesive label stickers and maybe use a bit of electrical tape to produce a renovated battery pack that works- original Apple battery frame + new LI-ION cells..

Jason Sodergren - 回复

Thanks for letting us know that battery PCB takes LiIon cells replacement. I have the same problem with reboot using cheap ebay replacement battery. Going to test new LiIon cells for capacity and if OK - will resolder them.

Paul G -

PS: just replaced two cells, it works. Just in case, to prevent the charging PCB to loose the power (some LiIon controllers can lock because of power loss) I did it one by one. First I removed one cell, soldered replacement, then second one. I estimated capacity of new cells using Imax B6 charger - both of them were around 3100mah, not bad for noname $12 battery from ebay.

Paul G -

I am new to this. Does the iPad need to be kept powered up by an external battery while changing out the battery pack to prevent loss of apps and data? I don't mind so much losing data, it is backed to cloud. But apps are a problem as many of mine are no longer available.

Mike Nixon - 回复

No, iProduct storage doesn't depend on the battery.

jasonq -

Should the iPad boot if i reassemble it without a battery?

Heiner - 回复

I've performed the steps and it worked with Kastar replacement part, just to note that to open it first I've used the side were the volume button is located and slided through the botton were the front button is located.

Also is almost impossible to open it without broke some clips, I've bought some spares (10 pieces) that come handy because 6 were broken during the procedure.

luizcn - 回复

All I get on mine is the time of day and nothing else..Is there a cure ?

Carol - 回复

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