1. 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。
    • 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。

    • 把iOpener放在微波炉中间 。

      • 对于旋转式微波炉:确保盘子可以自由旋转。如果你的iOpener卡住了,它可能会过热并燃烧

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - 回复

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 回复

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 回复

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 回复

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - 回复

    I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

    putinaspiliponis - 回复

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 回复

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 回复

    I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

    Sherry Carew - 回复

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - 回复

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?



    Cedric VINCENT - 回复

  2. 加热iOpener三十秒
    • 加热iOpener三十秒

    • 贯穿整个维修过程,如果iOpener 冷却了,在微波炉中每次重新加热额外的三十秒。

    • 注意在维修过程中不要过度加热iOpener,过热可能会导致iOpener爆炸。

    • 如果出现膨胀千万不要碰iOpener。

    • 如果iOpener中间部分依然烫的没法碰,请等待冷却后再加热,一个加热好的iOpener 应该可以保持热度十分钟

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - 回复

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 回复

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 回复

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - 回复

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - 回复

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - 回复

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - 回复

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - 回复

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - 回复

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 回复

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 回复

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 回复

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 回复

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.


    Karl Marble - 回复

    • 把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来,捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个避免碰到中心热的部分。

    • iOpener会非常烫,所以拿着它的时候千万要小心。必要的时候可以使用烤箱手套。

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - 回复

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - 回复

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 回复

    • 如果您的显示屏玻璃已经碎裂,防止显示屏玻璃在您维修时进一步伤害到您,请使用胶带来固定已经碎裂的屏幕。

    • 给iPad 的正面整面贴上胶带。

      • 这一步将保证在您翘起和移除显示屏时能够保持完整。

    • 尽量根据下面的指南进行操作。但,一旦玻璃破碎,请停下拆解并使用金属撬刀撬出玻璃,避免更多的碎裂。

    • 戴上安全眼镜来保护你的眼睛。 小心操作不要损坏了LCD内屏。

    In case of broken glass, here are some hints:

    - I prefer 3M "3350" tape; a metalized polypropylene tape with an acrylic adhesive. It's a very thin, silvery HVAC tape, not your standard duct tape.

    - Test your tape to make sure it sticks really well to the glass.

    - Use isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel to remove fingerprints and other dirt to help the tape stick to the screen.

    - Use the widest tape you can find, and apply it evenly, without trapping bubbles, without crinkles: This greatly improves your chance of success with the suction cup later.

    - Cut tape pieces long enough and go over the (rounded) edge; afterwards carefully run a scalpel alongside the edge (between bezel and glass) to trim off any excess.

    - Don't overlap edges of the tape: butt-join them instead.

    - If needed: repeat in other direction.

    - If needed: Cut square piece of tape (size of suction cup) and place it where you want to lift the glass, so that the suction cup doesn't cover any butt-joins.

    Good luck, you brave person!

    volty - 回复

    This is the second broken screen I’ve fixed. Overlapped package tape carefully stuck to the glass and trimmed to the edges will contain most of the shards. I found that a hair dryer works for softening the glue. After getting under an edge with the suction cup I carefully followed the opening sequence using a combination of plastic picks and a single edge razor blade to get under the small pieces. It was slow going with lots of reheating with the dryer (about 45 minutes), but the taped glass came off without glass everywhere.

    Bill Roughen - 回复

    • 将iOpener放置在iPad左侧。也就是Home键左侧位置。

    • 将iOpener放置至少5分钟来软化玻璃下面的粘合剂。

    I worked at it for over 2 hours before deciding to microwave the opener for 45 seconds at a time. That seemed to do the trick.

    jaromhyde - 回复

    • 将吸盘小心的放在刚加热的一侧中间的位置。

      • 确保吸盘已经牢牢吸住前玻璃面板。

    • 使用一只手在固定住iPad,另一只手慢慢提起吸盘,将前玻璃面板与后壳分离。

    • 小心将玻璃面板提起能够将撬棒插入的高度。 抬的过高玻璃会有破损的风险。

    This step is totally pointless if you have a shattered screen. The suction cup is rendered useless. Any tips on what to do if you can't get any suction due to a shattered screen?

    robloomis - 回复

    just pick out the glass shards if it is cracked that bad you are better off scrapping the digitizer

    Ethan Chow -

    for shattered screens I cover the screen with tape. I find packing tape works best for me.

    George - 回复

    • 拉住吸盘,在玻璃和机壳之间的缝隙处放置一个撬片。

      • 切勿将撬片插入深度超过黑色边框,这样深入过度可能会使LCD屏幕受损。

    • 然后拉动吸盘塑料部分来将吸盘从显示模组上取下。


    • 重新加热iOpener

      • 小心,请勿在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。 在重新加热iOpener之前请至少等待10分钟。

    • 将其放在ipad左侧几分钟来重新加热。


    • 沿着第一个撬片的开的口处插入另外一个翘片同时向下滑动,让撬片分离粘合剂。

    • 在下来的步骤中,如果您遇到了巨大的阻力,请停下来,重新加热工作的部位。 暴力使用撬片会导致玻璃破裂。


    • 继续沿着下方继续滑动来将粘合剂分离。

    • 如果撬片卡住了,请沿着iPad的侧面滚动撬片,然后继续进行分离工作。


    • 将第一个插入iPad的撬片向上滑动到iPad的左上角

    • 撬片可能会出现图片上的情况,请不要慌张。 只需将撬片拉出一点点来继续进行维修工作。 但要避免这种情况,因为粘合剂可能会粘附在LCD显示屏上变得难以清理。


    • 重新加热iOpener 并将其放置在iPad顶部边缘位置且高于前置摄像头。

      • 小心,请勿在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。 在重新加热iOpener之前请至少等待10分钟。

    • 如果您有可以弯折的iOpener,您可以弯折其使其同时加热左上角边缘位置。


    • 在左顶部插入撬片来分离粘合剂。

    Gezz this is though! Cracked the glass while replacing it.

    Padraic Hoselton - 回复

    • 滑动撬片直到快接近前置摄像头位置时停下

    • 第三张图片展示了iPad前置摄像头的位置。

      • 避免使用撬片直接滑过前置摄像头,这样做可能会污损到摄像头。 接下来的步骤将会详细说明如何避免损伤前置摄像头。


    • 轻轻拉出些许撬片,并沿着前置摄像头顶部位置慢慢的滑动。


    • 将刚才那片撬片稍微滑过前置摄像头然后放在原位不动。

    • 拿另一片撬片插入到摄像头的左侧位置然后滑动到转角位置,完成对该边缘部分的粘合剂分离工作。

    • 将第二片撬片放在转角处,防止粘合剂冷却后重新粘连。


    • 将刚才那片撬片稍微深入iPad之中,从摄像头处滑动到右上角。


    • 将三个撬片放置在转角处,防止粘合剂重新与粘连前面板。

    • 重新加热iOpener然后将其放置在iPad未撬开的右侧,音量和电源键一侧。


    • 滑动右上角的撬片,分离那部分的粘合剂。

    • 将这个撬片就放在这,防止粘合剂重新粘连。 重新拿一个撬片来进行下一步。


    • 在右侧插入一个新的撬片来分离粘合剂,滑动到中部位置时停下。


    • 继续滑动到右下角处,来分离粘合剂。


    • 就把撬片放在停下的位置,然后重新加热iOpener。

      • 记住,切勿过度加热iOpener-加热间隔为10分钟。

    • 然后将iOpener放置在iPad的底部几分钟来软化玻璃面板下的粘合剂。


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    • 滑动左下边的撬片来分离粘合剂。

    • 滑动到左下角时停止滑动。 然后放置在此

    • 这里有几个地方需要避免撬动到。 详见第三张图片。

      • 天线

      • Home键

      • 数字化线缆

    • 接下来的步骤将会指导您如何避免伤害这些部件。 只加热和撬动指南所指示的部位。


    • 将原撬片放置在原位,以防粘合剂重新粘合。

    • 拿一片新的撬片,轻轻的从左手边的天线处滑动到home键前

      • 只能从iPad外边缘向内滑动 请勿按照相反方向滑动 这样可能会损坏天线。

      • 如果您需要再次滑动来清理粘合剂,请取出撬片然后从外边缘重新插入再向内滑动。

    • 将撬片放置不动。


    • 拿一片新的撬片来从刚才那片撬片在右边Home键下继续滑动。

    • 在右手边大约1英尺的地方停下来,避免切割到数字化线缆。

    • 将撬片稍微深入,然后向Home键处滑动。

    • 再一次提醒,确保完全插入然后再滑动撬片。 不然的话这样会损坏玻璃面板下的天线。


    • 重新加热iOpener 将其放在iPad的顶端。


    • 小心操作这一步,花点时间保证粘合剂是热和软的,同时确保您的撬片已经分离开了该分离的粘合剂。 不要怕返工和重新加热。

    • 在iPadHome键相对的顶部您应该在每个角落里插了撬片。 扭动撬片,轻轻地提起玻璃面板,分离最后残留的粘合剂。

    • 如果在打开过程中遇到很大的阻力,请立即停止扭动撬片。 将撬片放置原位,重新加热iOpener,将其放置在难以开启的位置,然后插入撬片来重新分离一遍粘合剂。


    • 慢慢地轻轻地提起玻璃面板,以便沿着下边缘进一步分离粘合剂。


    • 一旦所有的粘合剂被分离了,玻璃面板就可以像翻书一样将其放置在您的工作台上。


    • 前置摄像头的保护壳可能会粘在前面板上; 将保护壳从面板上取下,并放回相机上以保护相机模组。

    • 从保护壳一角晃动其,让其从前面板上的粘合剂上分离下来。

    • 将前置摄像机外壳放回后壳中的凹槽。


    • 小的海绵胶带保护着顶部,底部右手边有螺丝将LCD与后壳相固定。

    • 使用镊子取下保护右上侧LCD螺丝的长方形海绵胶带。

    • 取下右下方LCD螺丝上的长方形胶带。


    • 左上方的LCD螺丝有可能被胶带所覆盖。

    • 如果有的话,使用撬棒扁平的一端来撬起,露出下方的LCD螺丝。


    • 移除将LCD与后壳固定的四颗3.9 mm Phillips #000 螺丝。

    In my case the 4 screws are not the same. One is 4mm, and 3 of 3.5mm, or better 2 x 3.5mm and one 3.45mm. I put the longest one at the left edge at left of the LCD flat cable.


    Mitja Jankovic - 回复

    Hi Mitja. I just checked the measurements with an electronic digital caliper. I got 3.9 mm for all four screws. Are you sure it was the same model? Thanks.

    Walter Galan -

    The top left screw is longer than the other 3 - iPad mini Retina Wi-Fi.

    sandro - 回复

    On mine the top right screw is longer

    oliver - 回复

    top right is longer on an ipad mini 2 retina wifi 32GB

    sagert - 回复

    • 使用镊子来将LCD框架与右侧扬声器连接的胶带剥离。

    I wonder what does this sticker stands for…

    K8L - 回复

    • LCD框架上贴着一条薄薄的海绵胶带,将LCD面板下方的胶带相连接。 要继续,你需要将其破坏然后剥离一些,暴露下方的胶带。

    • 使用薄口镊子拉起LCD周围的泡沫胶带的顶部。

      • 不要用镊子触碰液晶显示器,否则可能会损坏显示屏。

    • 使用镊子将泡沫胶带剥去以暴露液晶显示屏的顶部。


    • 在LCD框与LCD顶部胶带之间插入撬棒的尖端。

    • 在LCD框与胶带之间滑动,将胶带与LCD框相分离。

    I finished a successful replacement of my screen following these instructions. Thanks.

    Step 36 (remove tape from LCD perimeter), however, seems unnecessary. I ended up spending a lot of time separating the tape from the LCD frame only to discover it was not necessary for steps 37-44 and actually made things really difficult for step 45-46 (removing the tape near the speakers). Finally, steps 45-46 can be skipped since it is much easier to remove this tape once you flip the LCD over (Step 55).

    Kenneth Snyder - 回复

    • LCD金属屏蔽版与LCD使用胶水在其顶部左侧和右侧的边角相粘连。 为了安全分离这些粘合剂,你需要使用吉他拨片来移动几毫米。

    • 在LCD与后壳靠近左上角的位置插入吉他拨片

    • 小心向外弯曲拨片,不需要撬开过大的缝隙。

    I found a very simple method for removing the LCD from the metal shield. Slightly lift one of the top corners and insert a 1' piece of fishing line. Insert the line under the other top corner placing the length between the LCD and shield. Once in place, gently pull each end toward the bottom of the LCD breaking the adhesive as you go. This will make things much easier than using the picks and possibly breaking the LCD.

    bababooey - 回复

    The fishing line trick is amazing… although i had already broken the LCD when i saw that comment. Good Learn!

    Brandon Lukasik - 回复

    This step is what destroys my LCDs :(

    Dan Harris - 回复

    Just destroyed my LCD as well. A red warning remarking is missing here! The LCD assembly is very fragile an cannot be bent, even slightly!!

    brauliox - 回复

    I have broken about 10 of the 50 or so iPad minis that I have repaired. I always try to have a LCD on hand. I’ll have to try the fishing line trick!

    northstar - 回复

    I also recommend doing step 45 first (removing the two pieces of foam tape at the bottom).

    northstar - 回复

    • 将吉他拨片器入液晶显示屏左侧的三个位置,并在每个位置弯曲,将液晶显示转到后壳的右侧。


    • 现在到了液晶显示屏的右侧,并沿着旁边的几个地方使用吉他拨片撬动,将液晶显示屏移回左边。

    • 重复此操作和上一步骤几次,直到LCD容易左右移动。


    • 在接下来几步中,你将使用撬棒在LCD与金属背板之间滑动来将LCD从下方的粘合剂中分离出来。

    • 将撬棒扁平的一端插入LCD框与金属背板之间。

      • 确保撬棒位于LCD框与背板之间,而不是在背板的下方。 撬起背板将会损坏部件,因为在LCD下方螺丝将背板与后壳固定。


    • 从设备的右上角开始,将撬棒滑入LCD框和金属背板之间,当您推动撬棒时也会分离两者之间的粘合剂。

      • 我们的目标是分离粘合剂,而不是撬起LCD。 所以尽量小角度撬动,防止损伤LCD。

    • 如果在LCD边角处深入撬棒会使得LCD弯曲,使用吉他拨片来重复上述动作来进一步分离粘合剂。

    These steps were hard. I was too scared that I was going to brake the LCD. Luckily I got it off! Don’t know how delicate these things are and how much force they can take.

    Padraic Hoselton - 回复

    • 重复先前的步骤来分离LCD顶部。

    • 将撬棒扁平的一端插入LCD框与金属背板之间,小心地在顶部推动撬棒,分离粘合剂。


    • 在LCD左侧继续进行相同的操作,将撬棒扁平的一端尽可能深的插入LCD和背板之间。

    • 这时,LCD应该与固定的粘合剂分离了,如果没有的话,重新在右侧或者顶部插入撬棒来完全分离LCD。


    • 从后壳上抬起LCD几英寸,来确保它已完全与粘合剂相分离。


    • 两条宽胶带将LCD与扬声器相连。

    • 一只手拿着LCD, 另一只手将撬棒扁平一端插入左扬声器与胶带之间的空隙之间。

    • 将液晶显示器从扬声器中轻轻拉出,同时向外旋转撬棒将胶带与扬声器分离。

    I recommend removing these two pieces of foam tape prior to loosening and lifting the LCD.

    northstar - 回复

    • 将撬棒扁平一端插入右扬声器与胶带之间的空隙之间。

    • 将液晶显示器从扬声器中轻轻拉出,同时向外旋转撬棒将胶带与扬声器分离。


    • 将LCD翻转并放在前面板玻璃的顶部。

    • 不要尝试从iPad上取下LCD,因为它仍有排线线连接。


    • 移除下列将LCD屏蔽板与后壳固定的螺丝。

      • 2颗2.6 mm Phillips #00 螺丝

      • 13颗 1.7 mm Phillips #00 螺丝

      • 在有些设备上,额外的一颗1.7 mm Phillips #00螺丝。

    At the iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are only 7 screws.

    sandro - 回复

    On my iPad Mini (Gen 1 WiFi; A1432), these are not #00 screws, but #000 screws. They're much tinier than the first four screws that held the LCD tabs in place. The #00 driver sorta works, but requires a lot of force to get traction. The #000 driver works like a charm, though.

    volty - 回复

    On my 1432 there were mixed in 4 tiny #000 screws holding the shield plate aong the right side. Looks like these can be mixed in without consequence as they are shorter anyway

    gfriedman99 - 回复

    • 在LCD屏蔽板Home键的正下方插入撬棒扁平的一端。

    • 撬起撬棒,来将屏蔽板与后壳分离。


    • 将屏蔽板从iPad中移除。


    • 移除固定连接器支架的三颗 1.3 mm Phillips #00 螺丝

    • 确保这三颗螺丝没有与其他螺丝弄混, 任何稍长的螺丝可能会损坏螺丝孔,导致逻辑板的不可修复的损坏。

    Note: These three screws are smaller than the rest of the screws holding the larger LCD shield although they look similar. If you substitute the larger screws, you will pop a screw bracket which can damage the board on both the mini original and mini 2 retina. I just wrote a blog post about how this happens: http://mendonipadrehab.com/entries/gener...

    jessabethany - 回复

    Hi jessabethany. Thank you for the warning. I read your blog post and found it to be very informative. Thanks for adding the warning to the step. It will most definitely help others avoid any damage to the logic board. Thanks!

    Walter Galan -

    Be careful: At iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are thw short and one longer screw! Don't mix them!

    sandro - 回复

    • 使用镊子将支架从iPad中移走。


    • 使用塑料打开工具,轻轻地将电池连接器从逻辑板上的插座中撬起。

    • 千万小心地来撬起连接器,切勿直接撬动插座。 这样做将会完全损坏连接部分。

    Make sure you disconnect the battery. If not and ipad is still on you can have problems with the LCD backlight. To fix that problem you have to solder

    Mattis - 回复

    I may be experiencing the backlight problem you mentioned. What connection needs to be soldered?

    Grillwrecka -

    Have an issue - heard that if you don't disconnect the battery a fuse is blown. I need help to fix the blown fuse.

    Andrew Kivell -

    There is an extensive thread in Answers about iPad mini backlight problems.Th screen stays black after a digitizer replacement.

    jessabethany -

    After unplugging the battery place a guitar pick in-between the two connections.

    While continuing to work on the iPad you may inadvertently cause the two connections to touch.

    Michael Vovaris - 回复

    Yeah, you need to put the pick in between the connections so the battery doesn't touch the logic board connector and blow a fuse and make your backlight not turn on. You really don't want to have to solder the 2 connections together, especially if you don't know how, like me! I will use your comment's advice when working.

    WolfyHD - 回复

    I put a piece of cellotape on the contact side of the connector and could happily forget about it while getting on with the rest of the repair.

    Rory Filer - 回复

    • 使用塑料打开工具来将LCD连接头从逻辑板上的插座中撬起。

    • 切勿靠着IC芯片来撬动,这样会损坏IC芯片。 如图小心在边缘处撬动。

    Putting the iPad back together: While plugging the LCD Connector back in, take your time finding the socket on the logic board. Do no use pressure until you are certain it is seated properly. Trust me, if you take your time you will know its seated correctly.

    Michael Vovaris - 回复

    • LCD此时仍通过下方的两条宽胶带与后壳连接。

    • 一只手握住LCD,将撬棒插入左侧的胶带和LCD之间。

    • 向外滑动撬棒,分离胶带。 将LCD小心向外提起,使其远离胶带。

    • 在分离LCD与胶带的时候,扭动撬棒会更加高效的分离。

    Removing this tape and such to take the LCD off completely is unneccessary when replacing just the glass and digitizer, the digitizer cable is easily removed without further work to the LCD

    Nick Hughes - 回复

    When this tape damage, how we can take a new?

    Muhammed Kilic - 回复

    When this tape are damage, how we can order and take a new one?

    Muhammed Kilic - 回复

    Following from Nick H’s comment about LCD removal being unnecessary - I tried that first and got my broken glass OUT of the assembly by threading it thru a limited space beneath the LCD. Later when trying to reseat the digitizer connector I gave up and removed the LCD anyhow. Not that much extra work but a LOT easier to install the digitizer and reseat the connector without having to navigate around the LCD and its cable. Removal of the tape holding the LCD was easy - there are two short lengths of rubber or foam along the bottom edge of the LCD that faces the outside world. Remove those(save them) and then _carefully_ peel up the tape; I saw some metallic looking residue underneath. Later when re-assembling everything, I put the tape back and then those two short lengths of foam.

    Rory Filer - 回复

    • 仍用一只手握住LCD,按照先前操作方法来移除左侧的胶带。

    • 将撬棒扁平的一端插入LCD框与胶带之间,向外滑动撬棒,然后轻轻提起LCD。


    • 将LCD从iPad mini 中分离出来。


    • 使用塑料打开工具,小心地将数字化电缆从逻辑板上的插座中撬出。

    • 撬起连接头的时候需要特别小心,切勿在插座上撬动。 插座和连接头十分脆弱,如果损坏,那么机器就会无法正常工作。


    • 小心将数字化线缆板从后壳中撬出。

    Be careful not to dislodge any of the surface mount components next to the connectors. This is sometimes a reason for the digitiser not working.

    Simon - 回复

    • 提起面板,将前面板与iPad分离。

    == After step 55 ==

    Before installing your new digitizer (front panel), make sure to put the necessary bends on the new digitizer's ribbon cable. Look at the old panel that you've removed to see the bends that you'll need to make. Without doing this, once you are at the last step of laying down the digitizer, the cable may bunch-up in between the glass and the iPad's aluminum frame. Thus, it will not allow that corner to sit flush and glue down. If you didn't make the bends, you can use the tweezers at that point to situate the cable. It is just easier to do this beforehand. Do not make the bends as if you were folding paper. You run the risk of damaging the ribbon by doing so. You just want enough pressure to make the cable retain a bend. Again, look at and copy the cable from your old panel.

    Good Luck!!!!

    Mike - 回复

    If your panel is shattered, you may want to have some canned air to get rid of all those pesky little glass pieces that fly everywhere. I used a Giottos air blaster because that is all I had at my disposal.

    Mike -

    might be better to use a vacuum for safety reasons. you really dont want glass shards all over the place

    gfriedman99 - 回复

    If your case corners are damaged from being dropped, seal across the corners with wide packing tape, then grind them out carefully with a small motor tool. Use a corner piece from the broken screen (adhesive side upwards) as the template. Keep removing aluminium until screen piece above fits snug and flat. Remove all traces of metal filings before reassembly.

    Jennifer Fordyce - 回复

    Good tip! Most times the corners are damaged.

    northstar -

    • 如果您要安装新的面板组件,那您需要做些准备。

      • 剥离围绕前面板组件周边的粘合剂的塑料条。

      • 从数字转换器电缆上取下小块粘合剂。

    • 确保所有的铜焊覆盖在新的更换屏幕上,一旦 错误安装,屏幕将随意移动。

    The pieces didn't adhere properly at the step. However, I continued the process and didn't have any issue with operation of the screen or system. I would recommend that this be a QA check at the manufacturer or third party company.

    paulmcneely - 回复

    The new replacements have it wrapped in a sticker, I opened it to see if there was any adhesive, but there is not. Just carry on, ignore the pressing it on itself step.

    Kelly Spongberg - 回复

    Yes the new replacements have this all wrapped in a sticker but I still had false imput problems with the new front panel assembly.

    Any ideas anyone?

    Pilar A - 回复

    What do you mean, “all copper is covered on the new replacement screen?”

    gentry - 回复

    What do you mean, “all copper is covered on the new replacement screen?”

    Yes, this is a pretty important instruction, it would seem. I can infer a meaning but would feel better if it was more specific. Thanks!

    bstolzer - 回复

    stolzer  gentry  notice the photo above… there is exposed copper parts next to the home button, these must be covered in electrical tape.

    David - 回复

    I just received a new front planel and the digitizer connector is wrapped in a black electrical tape. I removed to check for the adhesive between circuit and connector but didn't see any, I re-wrapped in the original black tape which I think should be left alone. Also there was a yellow tape over the back of the home button and circuitry between the digitizer cable and home button. I removed this when I removed the blue plastic on the adhesive but I don't think your suppose to. After repair, home button doesn't work which might be because removing that tape.

    Ken Bauer - 回复

    • 将数字转换器电缆弯折,并用力按压来固定粘合剂。

    The old glue was full of tiny shards. I rubbed it all away with many Q-tips and petroleum ether. To protect the LCD I used a sheet of heavy paper. Cleaning took a lot of patience.

    Still should have listened to Mike: The digitizer ribbon cable went between the frame and the panel. It was bent too sharply. Touch worked, but the home button did not. When i tried to reopen, the glass cracked. Big disappointment, but ill try again!

    luc - 回复

    Same here, so suspect I have the same problem, didn't see these comments until after I finished!

    Took me nearly 2 hours to remove the glass because it just shattered even more every time I used the sucker. Used IsoPropanol to clean.

    Checked all was working with the new digitiser and home button by starting iPad before sealing the glass shut, all ok.

    Stuck it all down, home button works occasionally, but also siri bleeps on it's own sometimes as if someones pressing the button. Also, if I press either side of the home button I get a reaction as if I've pressed the home button, or sometimes I get the double tap action and sometimes Siri, makes me think that there is something shorting / touching that shouldn't be, unless it's the ribbon.

    Will order another kit and give it another go shortly as the glass is sure to break when you re-open.

    Barry Tresadern -

    @Barry Tresadern

    I had the same problem with the home button acting crazy. The problem is on the new screen there are metal contacts that are exposed and they are touching the metal frame making it seem the button is being pressed. If you look on the old screen you'll see strips of tape covering these metal contacts. You can either peel them off and put them on the new screen or just use some electrical tape.

    Patrick -

    Excuse me for my ignorance but... where is the RE-assembly guide?

    Francisco O - 回复

    iFixit feels as if you don't need to actually fix the device, just take it apart ;)

    Koby Springer -

    With this step, im looking for a replacement screen. I cant seem to see the same connector as the one illustrated here. Is there 2 ribbons mixed there?

    James - 回复

    James, I think you're referring to the IC chip that most glass panels do not include. If you do not have soldering knowledge (and a lot of confidence and time) then it's crucial that you purchase a panel that has the IC chip attached, otherwise you will need to remove the old one from the broken assembly and re-solder it on to the new one - honestly not worth the time involved unless you know what you're doing.

    Katie -

    I've been able to replace a shattered screen. Took about an hour and a half. This consisted of mostly cleaning the shards. I wish there were some glue in the kit - I don't know if there is enough left from the previous screen to hold the new one. I'm likely going to use craft glue to make up the difference. Any other suggestions?

    [deleted] - 回复

    Heating the glue with a hair dryer or heat gun helps or you can buy very thin double faced tape.

    Michael Vovaris -

    I thought that it was a successful repair and resealed the iPad and turned it back on after replacing the digitalizer and the LCD screen, yet neither the home button nor the power button are working. After holding the power button, the power will come on but just one "click" the screen does not react. I tried moving the tape around the home button from the broken digitalizer to the new digitalizer, yet neither button works. I need help ASAP, I don't want to damage the iPad screen more by leaving it unopened for extended periods of time. Any suggestions?

    James Johnson - 回复

    the new pannel comes with a yellow tape on those contacts. Do not remove it. (or replace it !)

    ZARAGOZA - 回复

    Yes..do not remove this tape!

    Banu -

    Yes I learned the hard way as well, be sure you leave the yellow plastic tape over the back of the home button and surrounding circuitry or put tape over this area before install. New screen installed and the home button isn't working :-(

    Ken Bauer -

    THANK YOU Patboy2008, you saved me a friendship and a lot of heartache. I was racking my brain trying to figure out why the home button was on the fritz. Siri kept interrupting, the screen would go black, then flick on, then apps would randomly open, then it wouldn't even give me enough time to punch in my passcode. It was all about those two SILLY pieces of tape. Sure enough reopened it and noticed that the new screen didn't have the two black pieces of tape the old screen had. So glad I dug it out of the trash and transferred those pieces. It works like a charm now. Oh and this was so much harder to fix than the iPhones. The hardest part is getting the front panel off and if it's broke it'll come off in the tiniest of pieces. I hard shards of glass in my fingers that you were like invisible splinters. Be careful and take your time with this one.

    iKimmy - 回复

    Thanks for comments. Yes, do pay attention the the metal bands in the bottom frame of the front panel. DO cover a trip of electric tape on it. You will find the random moving and touching away.

    shanhaidong -

    It pays not to take the protectors off the glass panel adhesive until you have fitted the panel and turned on the ipad to test functionality a few times. (Once the adhesive sticks, it's very difficult to take the panel back off.) Also, I ended up applying two layers of electrical tape over the copper contacts on the panel before the random actions stopped. Now I am closing my third repair on the same machine. Let's hope this one sticks.

    philippschuller - 回复

    • 在安装新的前面板之前,需要将旧的前面板上的smart cover 磁铁转移到新的前面板上。

    • 将塑料打开工具的边缘放在靠近磁铁侧,位于前面板组件的左上方。

    • 使用右边的塑料打开工具小心地楔住磁体下面。

    • 将右侧的打开工具固定住。

    • 将左侧塑料打开工具楔入磁铁下方,同时向右侧工具方向撬动。

    • 这将需要用些力量,因为smart cover磁贴用强力粘合剂所固定。

    On the new front panel with the adhessive pre-installed, there are perforated area on the blue plastic you can peal away just for the magnets without exposing the rest of the adhesive.

    Ken Bauer - 回复

    I found these come off much easier after applying heat to the area for 5 seconds.

    Korey Bennett - 回复

    • 如有必要,使用一对镊子将前面板组件左下角附近的smart cover磁贴下的胶带部分地剥离。


    • 使用上述步骤拆除前面板组件左下角附近的smart cover磁铁。


    • 在此步骤中,您将将smart cover 磁铁转移到新的前面板组件上去。

    • 使用一对镊子小心地将左上方的smart cover磁铁放在适当位置

    • 在左下方smart cover磁铁位置上重复上述步骤。

    • 如有必要,使用塑料打开工具的边缘调整smart cover磁铁下的胶带使其变平。

    Do not forget to remove the protective film from inside of new digitizer, remove black insulating tape from bottom of old digitizer and place on new one, covering any and all exposed copper. Take your time - the repair is not hard but it is time consuming

    David D - 回复

    BEFORE you close everything up power up your ipad and make sure all the buttons and functions work properly, charging, rotation, home button, sleep button

    Chris Grayden - 回复

    Step 66, it is important to put the magnets in the same Exact place and orientation or you could break the glass (again) during installation.

    Phil Fite - 回复

    The orientation of the magnets may also be important to the devices’s ability to wake/sleep in response to the cover being opened and closed.

    ciradrak -

    No mention is made of using any adhesive during the installation of the new panel. There are gobs of adhesives for many different purposes. Is there any recommendation for re-establishing an adhesive for the new panel?

    Jim Dutton - 回复

    Step 35b : watch for LCD white screw tabs as you pull up LCD panel so that they don't bind at the bottom and break off (definite crack)!

    Jim Dutton - 回复

    Step 46: was easier, at least for me, to insert spudger between frame and digitizer board (left side) rather than trying to get under it from its right side.

    Jim Dutton - 回复

    All of this & they could have simply made the connector cable on the front glass a snap on connector & cut out 60 steps of this repair.

    Gary - 回复

    I was repairing the broken glass on my iPad. A lot of the broken glass was in small fragments along the edges which made sliding the pick underneath to loosen the glass quite difficult. Things would go well until I hit a small island of broken glass and the pick would stall as the glass wouldn’t budge. It took several re-heating cycles with the microwave heat pad and a lot of patience to break those loose. In retrospect, probably could have ignored them until the bulk of the glass was removed and then _gently & patiently_ chisel them out separately.

    Rory Filer - 回复

    Still had ghost touch issue with the iPad mini so I ended up purchasing Kapton tape on Amazon and used it to cover the entire bottom part of the iPad mini 2 where the Home button is, not just the gold connectors as previously suggested. Apparently this is a common issue with the iPad minis where the digitizer and home button are grounded to the iPad’s chassis. Thankfully, that resolved the issues of ghost touch and my daughter’s iPad is now working like a charm. Just wished your iFixit digitizers were properly prepped with Kapton tape from the factory. Hope this helps with other iFixit customers suffering from the same issue.

    Yousef Ghalib - 回复

    I believe I finally figured out the issue with the iPad mini. I feel like an idiot! It was improper installation. Ghosting on a the iPad mini was caused by creasing the digitizer flex incorrectly. It can NOT be allowed to bend backwards and touch the adhesive for the screen (I checked--mine and was bent backwards and creased due to it sticking to the adhesive). The flex must gently bow forward towards the LCD and not be allowed to crease. Unfortunately the digitizer is compromised and unusable. We’ll need a new digitizer but this time I wont make the same mistake

    Yousef Ghalib - 回复

    One of the more difficult/frustrating issues I had during reassembly was the tendency of the digitizer cable to place itself between the frame & the glass. This prevented the glass from seating completely in the frame & I believe would have caused damage to the ribbon cable had I not noticed it. I had to use a flat tool to guide the ribbon cable away from the frame as I lowered the glass into place. I am not in a position to do it, but I hope a reassembly document will be added to these instructions, as it’s not simply a matter of “following the instructions in reverse order.”!!!

    kevs - 回复






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This really isn't that hard of a repair, I struggle more with iphones than an iPad. Just be careful and diligent when you work. Hardest part for me is the stupid adhesive haha

Brendan McDonnell - 回复

ifixit is forgetting crucial steps in this repair. First off they need to make note of the small magnets on the back of the digitizer which are needed to use the smart cover feature on the ipad. And second they need to make note of the issues people are having with the touch acting up as soon as the digitizer is laid back down. you need to put tape on the contacts of the digitizer so that it does not directly touch the frame. also the iopener burned my microwave, your better off just using a heatgun and guitar picks/spudger.

info - 回复

Hi, I am having the exact issues where the touch is not responding. Where exactly do I need to put tape on the contacts of the digitizer so that it does not directly touch the frame? Can you explain in detail. Thanks.

yungwun619 -

Either it was updated or you overlooked it. For newcomers, the info implied about is covered in Step 60-63.

Keypad -

Again, ifixit leaves out a VERY important part that will BREAK the LCD if you forget to remove them. The sides of the LCD in the ipad mini has tape on it as well(you can even see the tape in the pictures above in the tutorial). If you do not remove this tape before inserting a tool under the sides of the LCD the LCD will BREAK! You must remove the foam ALL THE WAY AROUND THE LCD and peel back the tape from not only the top (as in the tutorial), but the sides of the LCD as well, holding it to the metal shield behind the LCD. The tape can be replaced, or re attached later, but it HAS to be removed before attempting removal of the LCD itself. I wish I would have known this before digging into the ipad mini. Fix the tutorial PLEASE!

Edward - 回复

too LATE, I BROKE THE TAPE lcd =((((((

Quynh Vu -

I completed a repair using this guide this past weekend. It took 2.5 hours mostly because the screen was too shattered to use the suction cup, and I had to clean up all the little bits of glass and adhesive. But the repair was a success! The iPad worked perfectly after I was done with the rebuild. I did forget to put back the two mini magnets that were for the smart cover but it was too late and I wasn't too worried about it at that point. Thanks again for a great guide.

Gregory Caporale - 回复

I was using the guide on the google app for Android and it was not as complete as this version on the website. Otherwise this was a great guide! Thanks again for the very detailed steps and photos.

Gregory Caporale - 回复

The only issue I had was the screen was shattered and made the use of the suction cup useless. I just continued to heat and remove the shards of glass a little at a time.

paulmcneely - 回复

Place clear packing tape or a screensaver on the shattered glass before you start and generally the suction cups will stick.

Patti Pender -

The adhesive on the packing tape will liquify under the heat of yhe iopener making it pretty useless. Heating and chipping seems to be the way to go. Ifixit eally should have adressed this ahead of time as i am assuming most people will be teplacing shattered screens. I mean why else would you go through this?

David Stotz -

Hopefully someone can help me. I have replaced the digitizer, but something is wrong. The digitizer is basically unresponsive, and acts like it is being touched in multiple places at once. This only happens when fully assembled. I tested with the digitizer NOT mounted to the chassis, and it works perfect. Is this a grounding problem?

bradj47 - 回复

Do you have to replace the smart magnets? is this a necessary step if you do not use the smart covers?

Michael - 回复

I didn't. No need.

Patti Pender -

This guide and the pictures are the best way to destroy your ipad, sorry to say so. If you insert the picks as deep as shown, you cut various wires such as the 3G antenna, the camera, the home button - all of them are placed on both narrow sides of the ipad. Further on you risk scratching the LCD surface, which consists of a dark foil that you may scratch off.

So to make it short: Fingers away from this guide!

dadoc - 回复

There is no 3G antenna on the Wi-Fi version. Use the correct guide for your device and these issues go away.

The guide carries warnings where the cables and antennae are and cautions you where to place picks.

Patti Pender -

After connecting the new digitizer I plugged in the LCD the digitizer and the battery connectors, installed the metal shields and tried to power on the iPad. Unfortunately the screen is grey white while booting, only half the Apple is visible and upon booting the colours are strange but I can use both the digitizer and the home button. Do you think I damaged the LCD during the process or did I break anything on the motherboard?

finn2k1 - 回复

I would check that the lcd cable isn't trapped or kinked under itself when plugged into the board. The iPhone 5 does exactly this when the cable isn't located spot on.

Gavin -

I did this over the weekend, took about 2 hours all told, as others have said cos the glass was shattered.

I found it very easy to just use a hairdryer to melt the glue enough to get the panel and digitiser off the chassis.

Unfortunately the home button is behaving a little oddly, and Im guessing its grounding out as it keeps kicking back to the home screen.

Ill report back when I have found out more.


Gavin - 回复

This was my first attempt at repair. So I went with an older model. He's what I've learned. Quite a bit of attention was made to keep the digitizer connected to the device. In my case, I was replacing it, so it didn't make a difference if I kept the broken glass attached. It was pretty annoying to have glass all over the place (even after taping) when I could have just cut the ribbon cable. Secondly, as previously posted, bend your ribbon cable on the new digitizer FIRST. But, it's not clear how it should be bent. After folding the digitizer back, it becomes straightened back out a bit before you use it as an example for the new cable. It should really be folded up accordion style so that there's a tight backward S shape to it. If you don't get the fold right the first time, just reheat the corner, pull just enough on the suction cup to slide a guitar pick in and push the cable into it's little space where it belongs.

jefowler4th - 回复

Good thing! I did it with success!!

Few things to make it easier for new users, said above but now clear.

- if your glas is shattered, its hard to remove it. But keep tryin it will work if you give it enough time.

- be careful at removing the lcd. The glue is holding it back on the metal plate. Slow an easy.

- bend the flex cable of the front panel before you reassemble. Or be very careful if you already reassembled but have to glue the glas onto the body. Push with a stump tool onto the cable until its an "s" and fits into the gap.

- finally, there are many versions of new glas. The adhesive isnt very strong on them. Maybe put some extra glue under the glas. Otherwise it wont stay fixed.

Good Luck

harry - 回复

I did my iPad Mini repair yesterday, took me 4 hours because I was slow and careful and it was my first time with this device, and here is my 2 cents'worth:

If the glass is cracked I wouldn't bother with taping it. I put the tape on, found I couldn't proceed because I couldn't get any suction with the suction cup, so took the tape off again.

Disconnecting the battery and LCD connectors is a swings and roundabouts thing. If you leave them connected, especially the battery connector, and you short something, you have a bad situation. However, if you disconnect them, and in the process of doing so, you damage the delicate connector. that is also a bad situation. I did it without disconnecting them and it worked OK.

The tape over the copper contacts is important. I put ordinary clear tape over the contacts and I got random movements on the screen. Then I put a strip of electrical tape on top of that and the random movements improved. Then I put another strip of electrical tape on and it's OK now.

Peter Gray - 回复

Another couple of things: the self adhesive strip around the edge of the new screen isn't anything like the original glue. It's OK for a temporary repair while you see if the thing works or not, but to make it permanent you really need to use iGlue or whatever Apple uses.

When I reassembled the unit I found that the front facing camera wasn't quite aligned with the spyhole in the front glass. This is because the camera is on a flexible mount which allows for a couple of millimetres movement in all directions. You just need to watch this when reassembling.

Peter Gray - 回复

Mischief managed, though it would have been nice if there was process for changing out the home button. One I ordered did not come with one. Ended up going to YouTube to find a video on how to do those steps.

Greg Beaudry - 回复

how to order a digitizer for ipad mini 1

kent bacalso - 回复

Why didn't anyone cover how to tak out the home button and replace it in the new digitizer?

gocaps25 - 回复

Troubles with the home button why isnt there steps on how to put it ?

Marvin - 回复

The following should be added to this guide

Digitizer random touch after replacement

aRI - 回复

How do you remove the old adhesive?

There is nothing in the repair kit to remove the adhesive.

Pierre St Gelais - 回复

Did this fix the other day and everything works except the iPad won't charge past 2 percent and keeps restarting.

Any help on what is causing this?


Steve - 回复

Did the repair everything works except the screen keeps acting like the magnet case is on and turning itself off at random I took the magnets out and am still having the same issue.

Robert - 回复

Well the yellow tape that came with the new screen came off replaced it and works like it should make sure the yellow tape stays on the screen

Robert - 回复

I did it. Everything whent smoodly but one small problem. The digitaser reads nothing. :( the button works.

Sandor Falkesund - 回复

Didn't work. =( Did the whole replacement, seemed to go mostly okay, but when I powered the device back on the touchscreen is completely unresponsive. My daughter is very sad, and I'm out $60. All the connectors clicked into place, so I have no clue what I did wrong, or if the part is bad, but the thought of spending another 2+ hours re-doing it is more than I can stand.

bh - 回复

I had successfully done 5 minis with no issues the last one had ghost touch then the digitizer died i think I damaged the digitizer flex I used kapton tape over the copper contacts this should stop the screen jumping and ghost touch be very careful when bending the digitizer flex it so easily damaged take time to get it right. For sticking the digitizer back down the adhesive supplied is not man enough to keep screen down on its own so I used IPAD ADHESIVE TAPE DOUBLE SIDED REDTAPE SUPER STRONG STICKY comes in different width's Easily got on eBay I found 'this worked the best and so far had no issues with digitizer lifting since using this tape

Jon maccallum - 回复

Followed this to replace a broken LCD. Turned out I needed the front screen with digitizer. Word of warning: I might have been a bit rough removing the screen first time and damaged the digitizer.

Stephen - 回复

After doing this repair the cameras aren't working... :( The camera app starts up and appears to be working with all the white buttons, but the screen is black. I can change between front and back camera (I see that it does it because one of the cameras has HDR.

I don't know what to do here. I've tried to reset it with the power- and home button but that doesn't fix it.

Any ideas?

Krister Turøy - 回复

If you're on the fence about your abilities, give this a try. It really isn't too bad.

I decided to remove the old (shattered) digitizer with an Xacto knife as I had seen elsewhere. That made quick work of that stage, but I would recommend gloves and being extra careful on the sides. The rest is fairly familiar, a lot like an iPhone if you've ever repaired one of those.

Another tip is to use a magnet from your fridge to keep the right screws together.

Wesley Applequist - 回复

The new adhesive doesn't stick very well and the side of the screen keeps popping up and I don't know what to do what should I do about this?

Peter Carlson - 回复

Hi Peter! As with all adhesives it will work best on a clean surface. If you can pop the glass up without damaging it or the adhesive, you may be able to check for any dirt or leftover adhesive, and rub down the case with some isopropyl alcohol to clean up any grime or finger oils. You can also check for misplaced cables or other components that didn't settle back correctly. If you don't want to risk reopening the device, you may be able to help set the adhesive by applying light pressure for a few hours. Warning though, if there is a hard high-point on the case anywhere, adding pressure on the device may cause the glass to crack in that location. Stack a few mid-sized books on the iPad overnight to help activate the pressure sensitive adhesive, you don't need to press hard, just light pressure over time will help. You can also check out our Answers forum for more help. Good luck!

Sam Lionheart -

Me tomó como 3 horas completarlo por que fui super cuidadoso y pendiente para no cometer un error. Es tedioso por los detalles pero facil de hacer con las herramientas correctas (utilize las de ifixit). Si tienes prisa busca el dia adecuado para hacerlo con calma ya que vale la pena hacerlo uno mismo. Tener mucho cuidado al sacar el LCD y de eliminar bien la pega que tenia en el marco del digitizer para que selle bien el nuevo. Thank you ifixit!


Just completed this repair. Left the ipad out in the sun, playing music while I worked outside. It overheated, and afterwards exhibited “ghost touches” making it nearly impossible to use. It also had a dead spot on the touch screen just above the home button. Research indicated the digitizer was a likely suspect. Sure enough, that fixed it! These instructions were great. A few differences in what was taped and where as the LCD came out, but everything else was spot on. The kit I received from ifixit had kapton tape over some exposed copper at the bottom of the new screen assembly. That may have been all that was necessary, but I put some scotch tape over the copper touch screen traces at the bottom of the screen as well. The copper traces along both sides and the top appeared to be covered completely by a thin plastic sheet, just like the original screen, so I did not tape them. So far, no ghost touch behavior! Thanks for the great site!

Matt Mischnick - 回复

My son dropped our iPad Mini 2 and the glass shattered. Other than that it works perfectly. My question is, do I have to replace the LCD or can I just buy the glass (much cheaper, around $20) and replace that? It seems that repair would be much simpler as well. Thanks in advance.

Richard Cacciato - 回复

Hi Richard, sounds like you only need to replace the glass, although I highly recommend you buy a replacement digitizer that includes the home button. We also have iPad Mini 2-specific digitizer guides. You can find the iPad Mini 2 Wi-Fi guide here, and the iPad Mini 2 cellular guide here.

Sam Lionheart -

Thanks, Sam. How can I tell for sure if I need to replace the digitizer as well or only the glass? As I said, the iPad seems to work perfectly other than the shattered glass.

Richard Cacciato - 回复

Richard, my bad on terminology, the digitizer is embedded in the top glass, if the display is undamaged, then you won’t need to replace the LCD, just the digitizer/glass.

Sam Lionheart -

Successfully repaired cracked screen, although more difficult than I anticipated after replacing screens on iPhone 5 and 6. I should have read more of the comments before starting.

The packing tape I used wouldn’t hold suction after heating, find tape with heat resistant adhesive, or pick out multiple pieces.

When I removed the protective film from the inside of the new screen, the yellow tape covering the Home button ribbon came with it, which caused the Home button to short out when the screen was put in place. Replacing the yellow tape solved the problem.

kimhoover - 回复

well i started this repair got the iopener and everything took it slow, got the glass of relised that it was the screen protector (am fixing for a friend). *facepalm* great practice though

GLaDOS .V42 - 回复



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