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加热iOpener三十秒
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贯穿整个维修过程，如果iOpener 冷却了，在微波炉中每次重新加热额外的三十秒。
May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.
yamayhuang - 回复
DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.
can i use just ordinary microwave???
If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?
I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.
There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(
If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own
I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.
30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.
60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.
I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.
K
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把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来，捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个避免碰到中心热的部分。
Yes, as does a heat gun.
I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.
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如果您的显示屏玻璃已经碎裂，防止显示屏玻璃在您维修时进一步伤害到您，请使用胶带来固定已经碎裂的屏幕。
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给iPad 的正面整面贴上胶带。
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尽量根据下面的指南进行操作。但，一旦玻璃破碎，请停下拆解并使用金属撬刀撬出玻璃，避免更多的碎裂。
In case of broken glass, here are some hints:
- I prefer 3M "3350" tape; a metalized polypropylene tape with an acrylic adhesive. It's a very thin, silvery HVAC tape, not your standard duct tape.
- Test your tape to make sure it sticks really well to the glass.
- Use isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel to remove fingerprints and other dirt to help the tape stick to the screen.
- Use the widest tape you can find, and apply it evenly, without trapping bubbles, without crinkles: This greatly improves your chance of success with the suction cup later.
- Cut tape pieces long enough and go over the (rounded) edge; afterwards carefully run a scalpel alongside the edge (between bezel and glass) to trim off any excess.
- Don't overlap edges of the tape: butt-join them instead.
- If needed: repeat in other direction.
- If needed: Cut square piece of tape (size of suction cup) and place it where you want to lift the glass, so that the suction cup doesn't cover any butt-joins.
Good luck, you brave person!
This is the second broken screen I’ve fixed. Overlapped package tape carefully stuck to the glass and trimmed to the edges will contain most of the shards. I found that a hair dryer works for softening the glue. After getting under an edge with the suction cup I carefully followed the opening sequence using a combination of plastic picks and a single edge razor blade to get under the small pieces. It was slow going with lots of reheating with the dryer (about 45 minutes), but the taped glass came off without glass everywhere.
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将吸盘小心的放在刚加热的一侧中间的位置。
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确保吸盘已经牢牢吸住前玻璃面板。
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使用一只手在固定住iPad，另一只手慢慢提起吸盘，将前玻璃面板与后壳分离。
This step is totally pointless if you have a shattered screen. The suction cup is rendered useless. Any tips on what to do if you can't get any suction due to a shattered screen?
just pick out the glass shards if it is cracked that bad you are better off scrapping the digitizer
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在左顶部插入撬片来分离粘合剂。
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移除将LCD与后壳固定的四颗3.9 mm Phillips #000 螺丝。
In my case the 4 screws are not the same. One is 4mm, and 3 of 3.5mm, or better 2 x 3.5mm and one 3.45mm. I put the longest one at the left edge at left of the LCD flat cable.
mitja
Hi Mitja. I just checked the measurements with an electronic digital caliper. I got 3.9 mm for all four screws. Are you sure it was the same model? Thanks.
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在LCD框与LCD顶部胶带之间插入撬棒的尖端。
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在LCD框与胶带之间滑动，将胶带与LCD框相分离。
I finished a successful replacement of my screen following these instructions. Thanks.
Step 36 (remove tape from LCD perimeter), however, seems unnecessary. I ended up spending a lot of time separating the tape from the LCD frame only to discover it was not necessary for steps 37-44 and actually made things really difficult for step 45-46 (removing the tape near the speakers). Finally, steps 45-46 can be skipped since it is much easier to remove this tape once you flip the LCD over (Step 55).
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在LCD与后壳靠近左上角的位置插入吉他拨片
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小心向外弯曲拨片，不需要撬开过大的缝隙。
I found a very simple method for removing the LCD from the metal shield. Slightly lift one of the top corners and insert a 1' piece of fishing line. Insert the line under the other top corner placing the length between the LCD and shield. Once in place, gently pull each end toward the bottom of the LCD breaking the adhesive as you go. This will make things much easier than using the picks and possibly breaking the LCD.
The fishing line trick is amazing… although i had already broken the LCD when i saw that comment. Good Learn!
This step is what destroys my LCDs :(
Dan Harris - 回复
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从设备的右上角开始，将撬棒滑入LCD框和金属背板之间，当您推动撬棒时也会分离两者之间的粘合剂。
These steps were hard. I was too scared that I was going to brake the LCD. Luckily I got it off! Don’t know how delicate these things are and how much force they can take.
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移除下列将LCD屏蔽板与后壳固定的螺丝。
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2颗2.6 mm Phillips #00 螺丝
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13颗 1.7 mm Phillips #00 螺丝
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在有些设备上，额外的一颗1.7 mm Phillips #00螺丝。
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On my 1432 there were mixed in 4 tiny #000 screws holding the shield plate aong the right side. Looks like these can be mixed in without consequence as they are shorter anyway
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移除固定连接器支架的三颗 1.3 mm Phillips #00 螺丝
Note: These three screws are smaller than the rest of the screws holding the larger LCD shield although they look similar. If you substitute the larger screws, you will pop a screw bracket which can damage the board on both the mini original and mini 2 retina. I just wrote a blog post about how this happens: http://mendonipadrehab.com/entries/gener...
Hi jessabethany. Thank you for the warning. I read your blog post and found it to be very informative. Thanks for adding the warning to the step. It will most definitely help others avoid any damage to the logic board. Thanks!
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使用塑料打开工具，轻轻地将电池连接器从逻辑板上的插座中撬起。
Make sure you disconnect the battery. If not and ipad is still on you can have problems with the LCD backlight. To fix that problem you have to solder
I may be experiencing the backlight problem you mentioned. What connection needs to be soldered?
Have an issue - heard that if you don't disconnect the battery a fuse is blown. I need help to fix the blown fuse.
There is an extensive thread in Answers about iPad mini backlight problems.Th screen stays black after a digitizer replacement.
After unplugging the battery place a guitar pick in-between the two connections.
While continuing to work on the iPad you may inadvertently cause the two connections to touch.
Yeah, you need to put the pick in between the connections so the battery doesn't touch the logic board connector and blow a fuse and make your backlight not turn on. You really don't want to have to solder the 2 connections together, especially if you don't know how, like me! I will use your comment's advice when working.
I put a piece of cellotape on the contact side of the connector and could happily forget about it while getting on with the rest of the repair.
Rory Filer - 回复
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使用塑料打开工具来将LCD连接头从逻辑板上的插座中撬起。
Putting the iPad back together: While plugging the LCD Connector back in, take your time finding the socket on the logic board. Do no use pressure until you are certain it is seated properly. Trust me, if you take your time you will know its seated correctly.
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一只手握住LCD，将撬棒插入左侧的胶带和LCD之间。
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向外滑动撬棒，分离胶带。 将LCD小心向外提起，使其远离胶带。
Removing this tape and such to take the LCD off completely is unneccessary when replacing just the glass and digitizer, the digitizer cable is easily removed without further work to the LCD
When this tape damage, how we can take a new?
When this tape are damage, how we can order and take a new one?
Following from Nick H’s comment about LCD removal being unnecessary - I tried that first and got my broken glass OUT of the assembly by threading it thru a limited space beneath the LCD. Later when trying to reseat the digitizer connector I gave up and removed the LCD anyhow. Not that much extra work but a LOT easier to install the digitizer and reseat the connector without having to navigate around the LCD and its cable. Removal of the tape holding the LCD was easy - there are two short lengths of rubber or foam along the bottom edge of the LCD that faces the outside world. Remove those(save them) and then _carefully_ peel up the tape; I saw some metallic looking residue underneath. Later when re-assembling everything, I put the tape back and then those two short lengths of foam.
Rory Filer - 回复
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提起面板，将前面板与iPad分离。
== After step 55 ==
Before installing your new digitizer (front panel), make sure to put the necessary bends on the new digitizer's ribbon cable. Look at the old panel that you've removed to see the bends that you'll need to make. Without doing this, once you are at the last step of laying down the digitizer, the cable may bunch-up in between the glass and the iPad's aluminum frame. Thus, it will not allow that corner to sit flush and glue down. If you didn't make the bends, you can use the tweezers at that point to situate the cable. It is just easier to do this beforehand. Do not make the bends as if you were folding paper. You run the risk of damaging the ribbon by doing so. You just want enough pressure to make the cable retain a bend. Again, look at and copy the cable from your old panel.
Good Luck!!!!
If your panel is shattered, you may want to have some canned air to get rid of all those pesky little glass pieces that fly everywhere. I used a Giottos air blaster because that is all I had at my disposal.
Mike -
might be better to use a vacuum for safety reasons. you really dont want glass shards all over the place
If your case corners are damaged from being dropped, seal across the corners with wide packing tape, then grind them out carefully with a small motor tool. Use a corner piece from the broken screen (adhesive side upwards) as the template. Keep removing aluminium until screen piece above fits snug and flat. Remove all traces of metal filings before reassembly.
Good tip! Most times the corners are damaged.
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确保所有的铜焊覆盖在新的更换屏幕上，一旦 错误安装，屏幕将随意移动。
The pieces didn't adhere properly at the step. However, I continued the process and didn't have any issue with operation of the screen or system. I would recommend that this be a QA check at the manufacturer or third party company.
The new replacements have it wrapped in a sticker, I opened it to see if there was any adhesive, but there is not. Just carry on, ignore the pressing it on itself step.
I just received a new front planel and the digitizer connector is wrapped in a black electrical tape. I removed to check for the adhesive between circuit and connector but didn't see any, I re-wrapped in the original black tape which I think should be left alone. Also there was a yellow tape over the back of the home button and circuitry between the digitizer cable and home button. I removed this when I removed the blue plastic on the adhesive but I don't think your suppose to. After repair, home button doesn't work which might be because removing that tape.
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将数字转换器电缆弯折，并用力按压来固定粘合剂。
The old glue was full of tiny shards. I rubbed it all away with many Q-tips and petroleum ether. To protect the LCD I used a sheet of heavy paper. Cleaning took a lot of patience.
Still should have listened to Mike: The digitizer ribbon cable went between the frame and the panel. It was bent too sharply. Touch worked, but the home button did not. When i tried to reopen, the glass cracked. Big disappointment, but ill try again!
Same here, so suspect I have the same problem, didn't see these comments until after I finished!
Took me nearly 2 hours to remove the glass because it just shattered even more every time I used the sucker. Used IsoPropanol to clean.
Checked all was working with the new digitiser and home button by starting iPad before sealing the glass shut, all ok.
Stuck it all down, home button works occasionally, but also siri bleeps on it's own sometimes as if someones pressing the button. Also, if I press either side of the home button I get a reaction as if I've pressed the home button, or sometimes I get the double tap action and sometimes Siri, makes me think that there is something shorting / touching that shouldn't be, unless it's the ribbon.
Will order another kit and give it another go shortly as the glass is sure to break when you re-open.
@Barry Tresadern
I had the same problem with the home button acting crazy. The problem is on the new screen there are metal contacts that are exposed and they are touching the metal frame making it seem the button is being pressed. If you look on the old screen you'll see strips of tape covering these metal contacts. You can either peel them off and put them on the new screen or just use some electrical tape.
Patrick -
Excuse me for my ignorance but... where is the RE-assembly guide?
iFixit feels as if you don't need to actually fix the device, just take it apart ;)
With this step, im looking for a replacement screen. I cant seem to see the same connector as the one illustrated here. Is there 2 ribbons mixed there?
James, I think you're referring to the IC chip that most glass panels do not include. If you do not have soldering knowledge (and a lot of confidence and time) then it's crucial that you purchase a panel that has the IC chip attached, otherwise you will need to remove the old one from the broken assembly and re-solder it on to the new one - honestly not worth the time involved unless you know what you're doing.
Katie -
I've been able to replace a shattered screen. Took about an hour and a half. This consisted of mostly cleaning the shards. I wish there were some glue in the kit - I don't know if there is enough left from the previous screen to hold the new one. I'm likely going to use craft glue to make up the difference. Any other suggestions?
Heating the glue with a hair dryer or heat gun helps or you can buy very thin double faced tape.
I thought that it was a successful repair and resealed the iPad and turned it back on after replacing the digitalizer and the LCD screen, yet neither the home button nor the power button are working. After holding the power button, the power will come on but just one "click" the screen does not react. I tried moving the tape around the home button from the broken digitalizer to the new digitalizer, yet neither button works. I need help ASAP, I don't want to damage the iPad screen more by leaving it unopened for extended periods of time. Any suggestions?
the new pannel comes with a yellow tape on those contacts. Do not remove it. (or replace it !)
Yes..do not remove this tape!
Banu -
Yes I learned the hard way as well, be sure you leave the yellow plastic tape over the back of the home button and surrounding circuitry or put tape over this area before install. New screen installed and the home button isn't working :-(
THANK YOU Patboy2008, you saved me a friendship and a lot of heartache. I was racking my brain trying to figure out why the home button was on the fritz. Siri kept interrupting, the screen would go black, then flick on, then apps would randomly open, then it wouldn't even give me enough time to punch in my passcode. It was all about those two SILLY pieces of tape. Sure enough reopened it and noticed that the new screen didn't have the two black pieces of tape the old screen had. So glad I dug it out of the trash and transferred those pieces. It works like a charm now. Oh and this was so much harder to fix than the iPhones. The hardest part is getting the front panel off and if it's broke it'll come off in the tiniest of pieces. I hard shards of glass in my fingers that you were like invisible splinters. Be careful and take your time with this one.
Thanks for comments. Yes, do pay attention the the metal bands in the bottom frame of the front panel. DO cover a trip of electric tape on it. You will find the random moving and touching away.
It pays not to take the protectors off the glass panel adhesive until you have fitted the panel and turned on the ipad to test functionality a few times. (Once the adhesive sticks, it's very difficult to take the panel back off.) Also, I ended up applying two layers of electrical tape over the copper contacts on the panel before the random actions stopped. Now I am closing my third repair on the same machine. Let's hope this one sticks.
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将塑料打开工具的边缘放在靠近磁铁侧，位于前面板组件的左上方。
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使用右边的塑料打开工具小心地楔住磁体下面。
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将左侧塑料打开工具楔入磁铁下方，同时向右侧工具方向撬动。
I found these come off much easier after applying heat to the area for 5 seconds.
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使用一对镊子小心地将左上方的smart cover磁铁放在适当位置
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在左下方smart cover磁铁位置上重复上述步骤。
BEFORE you close everything up power up your ipad and make sure all the buttons and functions work properly, charging, rotation, home button, sleep button
Step 66, it is important to put the magnets in the same Exact place and orientation or you could break the glass (again) during installation.
The orientation of the magnets may also be important to the devices’s ability to wake/sleep in response to the cover being opened and closed.
ciradrak -
No mention is made of using any adhesive during the installation of the new panel. There are gobs of adhesives for many different purposes. Is there any recommendation for re-establishing an adhesive for the new panel?
Jim Dutton - 回复
Step 35b : watch for LCD white screw tabs as you pull up LCD panel so that they don't bind at the bottom and break off (definite crack)!
Jim Dutton - 回复
Step 46: was easier, at least for me, to insert spudger between frame and digitizer board (left side) rather than trying to get under it from its right side.
Jim Dutton - 回复
I was repairing the broken glass on my iPad. A lot of the broken glass was in small fragments along the edges which made sliding the pick underneath to loosen the glass quite difficult. Things would go well until I hit a small island of broken glass and the pick would stall as the glass wouldn’t budge. It took several re-heating cycles with the microwave heat pad and a lot of patience to break those loose. In retrospect, probably could have ignored them until the bulk of the glass was removed and then _gently & patiently_ chisel them out separately.
Rory Filer - 回复
Still had ghost touch issue with the iPad mini so I ended up purchasing Kapton tape on Amazon and used it to cover the entire bottom part of the iPad mini 2 where the Home button is, not just the gold connectors as previously suggested. Apparently this is a common issue with the iPad minis where the digitizer and home button are grounded to the iPad’s chassis. Thankfully, that resolved the issues of ghost touch and my daughter’s iPad is now working like a charm. Just wished your iFixit digitizers were properly prepped with Kapton tape from the factory. Hope this helps with other iFixit customers suffering from the same issue.
I believe I finally figured out the issue with the iPad mini. I feel like an idiot! It was improper installation. Ghosting on a the iPad mini was caused by creasing the digitizer flex incorrectly. It can NOT be allowed to bend backwards and touch the adhesive for the screen (I checked--mine and was bent backwards and creased due to it sticking to the adhesive). The flex must gently bow forward towards the LCD and not be allowed to crease. Unfortunately the digitizer is compromised and unusable. We’ll need a new digitizer but this time I wont make the same mistake
One of the more difficult/frustrating issues I had during reassembly was the tendency of the digitizer cable to place itself between the frame & the glass. This prevented the glass from seating completely in the frame & I believe would have caused damage to the ribbon cable had I not noticed it. I had to use a flat tool to guide the ribbon cable away from the frame as I lowered the glass into place. I am not in a position to do it, but I hope a reassembly document will be added to these instructions, as it’s not simply a matter of “following the instructions in reverse order.”!!!
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要重新组装您的设备，请按照相反的顺序执行这些说明。
要重新组装您的设备，请按照相反的顺序执行这些说明。
387等其他人完成本指南。
48条评论
This really isn't that hard of a repair, I struggle more with iphones than an iPad. Just be careful and diligent when you work. Hardest part for me is the stupid adhesive haha
ifixit is forgetting crucial steps in this repair. First off they need to make note of the small magnets on the back of the digitizer which are needed to use the smart cover feature on the ipad. And second they need to make note of the issues people are having with the touch acting up as soon as the digitizer is laid back down. you need to put tape on the contacts of the digitizer so that it does not directly touch the frame. also the iopener burned my microwave, your better off just using a heatgun and guitar picks/spudger.
Hi, I am having the exact issues where the touch is not responding. Where exactly do I need to put tape on the contacts of the digitizer so that it does not directly touch the frame? Can you explain in detail. Thanks.
Either it was updated or you overlooked it. For newcomers, the info implied about is covered in Step 60-63.
Keypad -
Again, ifixit leaves out a VERY important part that will BREAK the LCD if you forget to remove them. The sides of the LCD in the ipad mini has tape on it as well(you can even see the tape in the pictures above in the tutorial). If you do not remove this tape before inserting a tool under the sides of the LCD the LCD will BREAK! You must remove the foam ALL THE WAY AROUND THE LCD and peel back the tape from not only the top (as in the tutorial), but the sides of the LCD as well, holding it to the metal shield behind the LCD. The tape can be replaced, or re attached later, but it HAS to be removed before attempting removal of the LCD itself. I wish I would have known this before digging into the ipad mini. Fix the tutorial PLEASE!
too LATE, I BROKE THE TAPE lcd =((((((
Quynh Vu -
I completed a repair using this guide this past weekend. It took 2.5 hours mostly because the screen was too shattered to use the suction cup, and I had to clean up all the little bits of glass and adhesive. But the repair was a success! The iPad worked perfectly after I was done with the rebuild. I did forget to put back the two mini magnets that were for the smart cover but it was too late and I wasn't too worried about it at that point. Thanks again for a great guide.
I was using the guide on the google app for Android and it was not as complete as this version on the website. Otherwise this was a great guide! Thanks again for the very detailed steps and photos.
The only issue I had was the screen was shattered and made the use of the suction cup useless. I just continued to heat and remove the shards of glass a little at a time.
Place clear packing tape or a screensaver on the shattered glass before you start and generally the suction cups will stick.
The adhesive on the packing tape will liquify under the heat of yhe iopener making it pretty useless. Heating and chipping seems to be the way to go. Ifixit eally should have adressed this ahead of time as i am assuming most people will be teplacing shattered screens. I mean why else would you go through this?
Hopefully someone can help me. I have replaced the digitizer, but something is wrong. The digitizer is basically unresponsive, and acts like it is being touched in multiple places at once. This only happens when fully assembled. I tested with the digitizer NOT mounted to the chassis, and it works perfect. Is this a grounding problem?
Do you have to replace the smart magnets? is this a necessary step if you do not use the smart covers?
I didn't. No need.
This guide and the pictures are the best way to destroy your ipad, sorry to say so. If you insert the picks as deep as shown, you cut various wires such as the 3G antenna, the camera, the home button - all of them are placed on both narrow sides of the ipad. Further on you risk scratching the LCD surface, which consists of a dark foil that you may scratch off.
So to make it short: Fingers away from this guide!
There is no 3G antenna on the Wi-Fi version. Use the correct guide for your device and these issues go away.
The guide carries warnings where the cables and antennae are and cautions you where to place picks.
After connecting the new digitizer I plugged in the LCD the digitizer and the battery connectors, installed the metal shields and tried to power on the iPad. Unfortunately the screen is grey white while booting, only half the Apple is visible and upon booting the colours are strange but I can use both the digitizer and the home button. Do you think I damaged the LCD during the process or did I break anything on the motherboard?
I would check that the lcd cable isn't trapped or kinked under itself when plugged into the board. The iPhone 5 does exactly this when the cable isn't located spot on.
Gavin -
I did this over the weekend, took about 2 hours all told, as others have said cos the glass was shattered.
I found it very easy to just use a hairdryer to melt the glue enough to get the panel and digitiser off the chassis.
Unfortunately the home button is behaving a little oddly, and Im guessing its grounding out as it keeps kicking back to the home screen.
Ill report back when I have found out more.
Gavin.
This was my first attempt at repair. So I went with an older model. He's what I've learned. Quite a bit of attention was made to keep the digitizer connected to the device. In my case, I was replacing it, so it didn't make a difference if I kept the broken glass attached. It was pretty annoying to have glass all over the place (even after taping) when I could have just cut the ribbon cable. Secondly, as previously posted, bend your ribbon cable on the new digitizer FIRST. But, it's not clear how it should be bent. After folding the digitizer back, it becomes straightened back out a bit before you use it as an example for the new cable. It should really be folded up accordion style so that there's a tight backward S shape to it. If you don't get the fold right the first time, just reheat the corner, pull just enough on the suction cup to slide a guitar pick in and push the cable into it's little space where it belongs.
Good thing! I did it with success!!
Few things to make it easier for new users, said above but now clear.
- if your glas is shattered, its hard to remove it. But keep tryin it will work if you give it enough time.
- be careful at removing the lcd. The glue is holding it back on the metal plate. Slow an easy.
- bend the flex cable of the front panel before you reassemble. Or be very careful if you already reassembled but have to glue the glas onto the body. Push with a stump tool onto the cable until its an "s" and fits into the gap.
- finally, there are many versions of new glas. The adhesive isnt very strong on them. Maybe put some extra glue under the glas. Otherwise it wont stay fixed.
Good Luck
I did my iPad Mini repair yesterday, took me 4 hours because I was slow and careful and it was my first time with this device, and here is my 2 cents'worth:
If the glass is cracked I wouldn't bother with taping it. I put the tape on, found I couldn't proceed because I couldn't get any suction with the suction cup, so took the tape off again.
Disconnecting the battery and LCD connectors is a swings and roundabouts thing. If you leave them connected, especially the battery connector, and you short something, you have a bad situation. However, if you disconnect them, and in the process of doing so, you damage the delicate connector. that is also a bad situation. I did it without disconnecting them and it worked OK.
The tape over the copper contacts is important. I put ordinary clear tape over the contacts and I got random movements on the screen. Then I put a strip of electrical tape on top of that and the random movements improved. Then I put another strip of electrical tape on and it's OK now.
Peter Gray - 回复
Another couple of things: the self adhesive strip around the edge of the new screen isn't anything like the original glue. It's OK for a temporary repair while you see if the thing works or not, but to make it permanent you really need to use iGlue or whatever Apple uses.
When I reassembled the unit I found that the front facing camera wasn't quite aligned with the spyhole in the front glass. This is because the camera is on a flexible mount which allows for a couple of millimetres movement in all directions. You just need to watch this when reassembling.
Peter Gray - 回复
Mischief managed, though it would have been nice if there was process for changing out the home button. One I ordered did not come with one. Ended up going to YouTube to find a video on how to do those steps.
how to order a digitizer for ipad mini 1
The following should be added to this guide
How do you remove the old adhesive?
There is nothing in the repair kit to remove the adhesive.
I did it. Everything whent smoodly but one small problem. The digitaser reads nothing. :( the button works.
Didn't work. =( Did the whole replacement, seemed to go mostly okay, but when I powered the device back on the touchscreen is completely unresponsive. My daughter is very sad, and I'm out $60. All the connectors clicked into place, so I have no clue what I did wrong, or if the part is bad, but the thought of spending another 2+ hours re-doing it is more than I can stand.
I had successfully done 5 minis with no issues the last one had ghost touch then the digitizer died i think I damaged the digitizer flex I used kapton tape over the copper contacts this should stop the screen jumping and ghost touch be very careful when bending the digitizer flex it so easily damaged take time to get it right. For sticking the digitizer back down the adhesive supplied is not man enough to keep screen down on its own so I used IPAD ADHESIVE TAPE DOUBLE SIDED REDTAPE SUPER STRONG STICKY comes in different width's Easily got on eBay I found 'this worked the best and so far had no issues with digitizer lifting since using this tape
After doing this repair the cameras aren't working... :( The camera app starts up and appears to be working with all the white buttons, but the screen is black. I can change between front and back camera (I see that it does it because one of the cameras has HDR.
I don't know what to do here. I've tried to reset it with the power- and home button but that doesn't fix it.
Any ideas?
If you're on the fence about your abilities, give this a try. It really isn't too bad.
I decided to remove the old (shattered) digitizer with an Xacto knife as I had seen elsewhere. That made quick work of that stage, but I would recommend gloves and being extra careful on the sides. The rest is fairly familiar, a lot like an iPhone if you've ever repaired one of those.
Another tip is to use a magnet from your fridge to keep the right screws together.
The new adhesive doesn't stick very well and the side of the screen keeps popping up and I don't know what to do what should I do about this?
Hi Peter! As with all adhesives it will work best on a clean surface. If you can pop the glass up without damaging it or the adhesive, you may be able to check for any dirt or leftover adhesive, and rub down the case with some isopropyl alcohol to clean up any grime or finger oils. You can also check for misplaced cables or other components that didn't settle back correctly. If you don't want to risk reopening the device, you may be able to help set the adhesive by applying light pressure for a few hours. Warning though, if there is a hard high-point on the case anywhere, adding pressure on the device may cause the glass to crack in that location. Stack a few mid-sized books on the iPad overnight to help activate the pressure sensitive adhesive, you don't need to press hard, just light pressure over time will help. You can also check out our Answers forum for more help. Good luck!
Me tomó como 3 horas completarlo por que fui super cuidadoso y pendiente para no cometer un error. Es tedioso por los detalles pero facil de hacer con las herramientas correctas (utilize las de ifixit). Si tienes prisa busca el dia adecuado para hacerlo con calma ya que vale la pena hacerlo uno mismo. Tener mucho cuidado al sacar el LCD y de eliminar bien la pega que tenia en el marco del digitizer para que selle bien el nuevo. Thank you ifixit!
Just completed this repair. Left the ipad out in the sun, playing music while I worked outside. It overheated, and afterwards exhibited “ghost touches” making it nearly impossible to use. It also had a dead spot on the touch screen just above the home button. Research indicated the digitizer was a likely suspect. Sure enough, that fixed it! These instructions were great. A few differences in what was taped and where as the LCD came out, but everything else was spot on. The kit I received from ifixit had kapton tape over some exposed copper at the bottom of the new screen assembly. That may have been all that was necessary, but I put some scotch tape over the copper touch screen traces at the bottom of the screen as well. The copper traces along both sides and the top appeared to be covered completely by a thin plastic sheet, just like the original screen, so I did not tape them. So far, no ghost touch behavior! Thanks for the great site!
My son dropped our iPad Mini 2 and the glass shattered. Other than that it works perfectly. My question is, do I have to replace the LCD or can I just buy the glass (much cheaper, around $20) and replace that? It seems that repair would be much simpler as well. Thanks in advance.
Hi Richard, sounds like you only need to replace the glass, although I highly recommend you buy a replacement digitizer that includes the home button. We also have iPad Mini 2-specific digitizer guides. You can find the iPad Mini 2 Wi-Fi guide here, and the iPad Mini 2 cellular guide here.
Thanks, Sam. How can I tell for sure if I need to replace the digitizer as well or only the glass? As I said, the iPad seems to work perfectly other than the shattered glass.
Richard, my bad on terminology, the digitizer is embedded in the top glass, if the display is undamaged, then you won’t need to replace the LCD, just the digitizer/glass.
Successfully repaired cracked screen, although more difficult than I anticipated after replacing screens on iPhone 5 and 6. I should have read more of the comments before starting.
The packing tape I used wouldn’t hold suction after heating, find tape with heat resistant adhesive, or pick out multiple pieces.
When I removed the protective film from the inside of the new screen, the yellow tape covering the Home button ribbon came with it, which caused the Home button to short out when the screen was put in place. Replacing the yellow tape solved the problem.
well i started this repair got the iopener and everything took it slow, got the glass of relised that it was the screen protector (am fixing for a friend). *facepalm* great practice though
which temperature must be used for heating? Thx
fbarletta - 回复
I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.
By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.
Fredrik -
I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.
windizy - 回复
I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.
Martin Gray - 回复
I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier
Jan Van Puymbroeck - 回复
Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.
Fletcher Carpenter - 回复
I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??
putinaspiliponis - 回复
I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.
Laurie Higgins - 回复
Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.
Yousef Ghalib - 回复
I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it
Sherry Carew - 回复
Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.
Esmond Pitt - 回复
Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?
Regards,
Cedric
Cedric VINCENT - 回复