Pull the keyboard release tabs (shown in yellow) toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.
If the keyboard does not come free, use a small flathead screwdriver to turn the keyboard locking screw (shown in orange) 180 degrees in either direction and try again.
Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.
Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.
Push in the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.
There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.
Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.
Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.
There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.
Be especially careful while disconnecting the cables in the forthcoming steps. Never pull directly on the cables, but use a spudger to pry up the connector directly from its socket.
Lift the upper case and use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the trackpad connector hidden beneath the white plastic tab.
Be careful while lifting the upper case, as its tabs are still hanging on the metal frame.
The sockets attached to the motherboards of most iBooks are very weak and easily broken. Use extreme caution when pulling connectors out of their sockets.
Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails, carefully pry the connector from its socket.
Carefully disconnect the multicolored speaker cable from the logic board in the same fashion.
It may be necessary to soften the thermal paste between the logic board and heat sink. You can soften the thermal compound using a hairdryer. Move the hairdryer back and forth over the ribbed metal section of the heat sink. At this point, the heat sink should come free easily.
If necessary, use a spudger to pry up the heat sink from the left side near the hard drive.
While lifting straight up on the hinge grill with your right hand, lift the heat sink with your left hand from the end nearest the hard drive and remove the heat sink assembly from the computer.
The hinge grill is held captive by the display assembly/clutch cover, and can only be partially raised.
Remove the two 5mm Phillips screws securing the battery connector to the metal framework.
Lift the battery connector out of the metal framework and disconnect it from the logic board.
This connector requires considerable force to remove. We recommend wiggling the connector while applying tension to slowly "walk" the connector out of its socket.
Lift the logic board up from the right side, and slide it up and out of the computer.
When replacing your logic board, be sure to transfer your old RAM chips to your new logic board.
Most 14" iBooks use thermally conductive pads rather than thermal paste to conduct heat from the processors to the heat sink. It is unlikely that these pads will fall off or become unusable during reinstallation. If so, be sure to apply a liberal amount of thermal paste to the surface of all processors before mounting the heat sink. This will avoid any damage from overheating.