如果你的iMac的主板后安装了SSD或包含刀锋SSD的Fusion Drive融合驱动器。使用本指南来移除或更换刀锋SSD。



  1. 从靠近电源按钮的左边显示屏,在显示屏和后盖的缝隙中插入iMac打开工具。 iMac打开工具的托盘会避免你把工具深入太深。如果你使用不同的工具,不要插过3/8英寸。操作不当可能破坏显示屏和破坏天线。 iMac打开工具的托盘会避免你把工具深入太深。如果你使用不同的工具,不要插过3/8英寸。操作不当可能破坏显示屏和破坏天线。
    • 从靠近电源按钮的左边显示屏,在显示屏和后盖的缝隙中插入iMac打开工具。

    • iMac打开工具的托盘会避免你把工具深入太深。如果你使用不同的工具,不要插过3/8英寸。操作不当可能破坏显示屏和破坏天线。

    Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

    Clark Green - 回复

    A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

    Dan -

    Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

    When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

    Walter Hayden - 回复

    Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

    Walter Hayden - 回复

    I can confirm with Walter - trying to remove freshly applied adhesive is WAAAAY harder! My pizza cutter didn’t work correctly (the circle became a rectangle!) and I ended up with a small crack on the left of my screen. Dang it!

    Benon Koebsch -

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 回复

    I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

    Anthony Zimmerman - 回复

    First impressions so far: yes it can be a bit nerve wrecking if it is your first time doing this sort of thing and even with lots of experience with a 2011 model it’s still a bit unsettling haha (nervous laughter).

    What I recommend: use a guitar pick to start cutting the glue. You’ll need a bit of pressure so do just the tip.

    Once you’ve done the whole perimeter (minus bottom) do it again but now it should be easier to go deeper so go very slow and careful. Then get the old suction cups used to open older models and start lifting the display very carefully to see where it’s still glued and cut those as well.

    Then you should be done and now the real fun begins! :D

    Carlos Ferrari - 回复

    It’s ridiculous. Apple should pay for doing this. Like glue parts together to block a repair / make difficult. I smashed my iMac. FU Apple. Seriously, every product I owned had hardware issues. For example, bad solder joints. Never again Apple. I’m happy with Windows and in 2018 / 2019 there are many other manufacturers with high quality stuff. Apple is dying, if they do not change …

    Depple - 回复

    NOTE: I followed every step word for word, but the adhesive strips supplied are as bad as double sided tape. Within 48hours the screen had slipped off and cracked. Now I need to fork out for a new screen and try again.

    Not sure what to try next time with strips? Perhaps a bit of glue to help hold it??

    Dan Kelly - 回复

  2. 就像切披萨一样—在缝隙里划过屏幕,这会切除掉粘在中间的泡沫粘合剂。 一定要推着转盘的后面让转盘旋转,如果你是拉的,转盘可能会掉出托盘。 在左方划开显示屏。
    • 就像切披萨一样—在缝隙里划过屏幕,这会切除掉粘在中间的泡沫粘合剂。

    • 一定要推着转盘的后面让转盘旋转,如果你是拉的,转盘可能会掉出托盘。

    • 在左方划开显示屏。

    I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

    Gerry - 回复

  3. 继续用工具划过左上角。 继续用工具划过左上角。 继续用工具划过左上角。
    • 继续用工具划过左上角。

  4. 从左上方开始,沿边切除粘合剂。 从左上方开始,沿边切除粘合剂。
    • 从左上方开始,沿边切除粘合剂。

    The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 回复

  5. 划过上方的屏幕。 你也许要多划几次,大约3-4次,确保大多数粘合剂已经分离了。
    • 划过上方的屏幕。

    • 你也许要多划几次,大约3-4次,确保大多数粘合剂已经分离了。

  6. 沿着缝隙划到显示屏右上角。 沿着缝隙划到显示屏右上角。 沿着缝隙划到显示屏右上角。
    • 沿着缝隙划到显示屏右上角。

  7. 转一下,让轮子沿着向下方向。 转一下,让轮子沿着向下方向。
    • 转一下,让轮子沿着向下方向。

  8. 把打开显示屏的工具推到显示器右边的底部。 此时,您会希望在整个显示器周围使用该工具,以确保尽可能减少粘结。
    • 把打开显示屏的工具推到显示器右边的底部。

    • 此时,您会希望在整个显示器周围使用该工具,以确保尽可能减少粘结。

  9. 当打开显示屏的工具做了大部分工作之后,显示器仍然会轻微地粘附在外壳上。用一张塑料卡就可以把这种胶粘剂移除。 将iMac屏幕朝上放在桌面上。 从iMac的右上角开始,在显示屏和外壳之间插入一张塑料卡。
    • 当打开显示屏的工具做了大部分工作之后,显示器仍然会轻微地粘附在外壳上。用一张塑料卡就可以把这种胶粘剂移除。

    • 将iMac屏幕朝上放在桌面上。

    • 从iMac的右上角开始,在显示屏和外壳之间插入一张塑料卡。

    • 小心不要插入超过3 / 8英寸,否则会损坏内部组件。

    I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

    Peter Fischer - 回复

    Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

    i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

    Edgar Broekema - 回复

    i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

    Eugene Kharkov - 回复

    I broke one too. And even if you think you did it correctly, you’ll not be able to see where you might have gone too far. You would think it’s very protected behind that metal plate, but no. Take special care with this offence to “right to repair” This should have been designed WAY better. I mean replacing a hardrive that is very likely to fail over the course of time, or even a simple desire to upgrade to an ssd!.


    Denis Sytmen - 回复

  10. 轻轻移动塑料卡,打开显示屏与外壳之间的空间。 慢慢地移动,小心不要给显示器的压力太大,你只需要大约1 / 4英寸。
    • 轻轻移动塑料卡,打开显示屏与外壳之间的空间。

    • 慢慢地移动,小心不要给显示器的压力太大,你只需要大约1 / 4英寸。

    My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 回复

  11. 在碰到iSight摄像头前一定要停止切割,否则你可能会损坏它。 将卡片向显示屏的中心滑动,以减少剩余的黏合剂。 将卡片向显示屏的中心滑动,以减少剩余的黏合剂。
    • 在碰到iSight摄像头前一定要停止切割,否则你可能会损坏它。

    • 将卡片向显示屏的中心滑动,以减少剩余的黏合剂。

    was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

    Julia S. - 回复

  12. 把这张卡放在显示屏的边角处,让它留在那里,以防止粘结剂重新粘合。 把这张卡放在显示屏的边角处,让它留在那里,以防止粘结剂重新粘合。
    • 把这张卡放在显示屏的边角处,让它留在那里,以防止粘结剂重新粘合。

  13. 将第二张卡插入显示屏另一个边角处和外壳之间的空隙。 将第二张卡插入显示屏另一个边角处和外壳之间的空隙。 将第二张卡插入显示屏另一个边角处和外壳之间的空隙。
    • 将第二张卡插入显示屏另一个边角处和外壳之间的空隙。

  14. 轻轻抬起卡片,稍微增加显示屏与外壳之间的间隙。 与另一边一样,慢慢地移动,让胶粘剂破裂,注意不要过度按压玻璃。
    • 轻轻抬起卡片,稍微增加显示屏与外壳之间的间隙。

    • 与另一边一样,慢慢地移动,让胶粘剂破裂,注意不要过度按压玻璃。

  15. 把塑料卡滑到中心,再一次停在iSight相机前。 把塑料卡滑到中心,再一次停在iSight相机前。 把塑料卡滑到中心,再一次停在iSight相机前。
    • 把塑料卡滑到中心,再一次停在iSight相机前。

  16. 将卡片插入显示屏的另一个边角处。 将卡片插入显示屏的另一个边角处。
    • 将卡片插入显示屏的另一个边角处。

  17. 只把显示屏抬起几英寸——它仍然是通过数据和电力电缆连接到iMac上的。 将卡片插入到边角附近,轻轻地扭转卡片,以增加显示屏与外壳之间的距离。 如果有任何部分看起来粘在一起,并且不会分开,那就停止扭转卡片,用其中一张卡片在问题区域中切下胶粘剂。
    • 只把显示屏抬起几英寸——它仍然是通过数据和电力电缆连接到iMac上的。

    • 将卡片插入到边角附近,轻轻地扭转卡片,以增加显示屏与外壳之间的距离。

    • 如果有任何部分看起来粘在一起,并且不会分开,那就停止扭转卡片,用其中一张卡片在问题区域中切下胶粘剂。

    • 开始从外壳中抬起显示屏的顶部。

    I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

    Marco De Palma - 回复

  18. 用一只手握住显示器的同时,用另一只手拔下显示电源线 把显示器提升到足够方便的高度,但不要太高,电缆还是连接在逻辑板上的(电缆约长8英寸)
    • 用一只手握住显示器的同时,用另一只手拔下显示电源线

    • 把显示器提升到足够方便的高度,但不要太高,电缆还是连接在逻辑板上的(电缆约长8英寸)

    Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

    Alastair Lack - 回复

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 回复

    The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

    Ed tabickman - 回复

    Is it possible to replace the power cable if its damaged? I can’t seem to find anything about this.

    Joseph Orr - 回复

  19. 打开覆盖在显示数据电缆上的金属盖片 断开显示数据电缆 这是一种很容易被打破的微妙关系。确保将显示数据电缆连接器直接从其插座中拉出,并拉向iMac的顶部
    • 打开覆盖在显示数据电缆上的金属盖片

    • 断开显示数据电缆

    • 这是一种很容易被打破的微妙关系。确保将显示数据电缆连接器直接从其插座中拉出,并拉向iMac的顶部

    I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

    I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

    Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

    chansung park - 回复

    Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

    Dan -

    Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

    redfoxydarrest - 回复

    Sorry damaged display

    Dan -

    I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

    john - 回复

    Yes, John is absolutely correct on this one. I damaged the display cable trying to get it back in. A close up would have helped and now my computer might have actually been fixed.

    Marsha Giardina -

    [|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

    Jim Kelly - 回复

    Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

    Sam Goldheart -

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 回复

    Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.


    Bryan - 回复

    First: During reassembly, I highly recommend you connect these cables and do a test boot BEFORE you remove the protective tape on the adhesive strips. That way you can fix any issues(like a damaged cable) if something is not right and you have not re-glued the screen back down which will cause a problem. If you have a second person and everything is working after test boot, you can just leave the cables connected, lift the bottom of the screen and have 2nd person pull the protective tape on the adhesive strips and you can set the screen in place. Second I damaged the video data cable during reassembly on my late 2015 iMac- I did not get the connector straight and I damaged the wires on the cable. I recommend you have someone else hold the screen while you attach the cables - they are fragile. Luckily, the data cable was easily replaced for only about $20. If you must do this by yourself, just be careful I highly recommend have 2 people at this step during reassembly.

    Chip T - 回复

  20. iPhone X Fix Kits

    Warranty up? No worries, we’ve got the fix.


    iPhone X Fix Kits

    Warranty up? No worries, we’ve got the fix.

  21. 将显示器提升到接近垂直的位置 此时,显示屏底部仍有一块胶粘剂,可以像铰链一样将显示器固定在外壳上。你可以通过几次开合来将这种粘合剂弄松
    • 将显示器提升到接近垂直的位置

    • 此时,显示屏底部仍有一块胶粘剂,可以像铰链一样将显示器固定在外壳上。你可以通过几次开合来将这种粘合剂弄松

    • 通过抓住外部边缘多次开合尽可能多地去除粘合剂,然后将其拉到需要的位置

    Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

    dforgues - 回复

    Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

    David Zemsky - 回复

    Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

    Peter Haigh - 回复

    There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

    Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

    Todd Derek - 回复

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens - 回复

  22. 如果需要的话,可以用一张塑料卡来切割底部粘合带的剩余部分 注意不要触碰电容器的引线或电源(用红色表示)的任何暴露的焊点 注意不要触碰电容器的引线或电源(用红色表示)的任何暴露的焊点
    • 如果需要的话,可以用一张塑料卡来切割底部粘合带的剩余部分

    • 注意不要触碰电容器的引线或电源(用红色表示)的任何暴露的焊点

    Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

    Wizbang FL - 回复

    you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

    Thomas Webb - 回复

    What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

    Eric - 回复

    [|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

    John Warmann - 回复

    Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

    Charlie Nancarrow - 回复

    J’ai réussi à intervenir dans l’iMac sans décoller l’ensemble de l’écran. Je l’ai ouvert en laissant la dernière partie collée (vers le logo Apple) et qui sert comme une charnière. Bien calé et assuré l’écran n’a pas bougé et j’ai pu changer mon disque dur facilement. Le grand avantage et d’avoir l’écran toute suite juste quand on le recolle par la suite.

    David Mariaux - 回复

  23. 拿着显示屏时要非常小心——它很大,很重,由玻璃制成 将显示从外壳中抬起并从iMac中拿出 可能有必要从一边慢慢地抬起起,并将剩余的胶粘剂剥离
    • 拿着显示屏时要非常小心——它很大,很重,由玻璃制成

    • 将显示从外壳中抬起并从iMac中拿出

    • 可能有必要从一边慢慢地抬起起,并将剩余的胶粘剂剥离

  24. 随着铰链的自由移动,iMac将会变得不平衡并且很难继续工作。维修可以将iMac的放倒来完成,但是使用iMac service wedge会更快更容易
    • 随着铰链的自由移动,iMac将会变得不平衡并且很难继续工作。维修可以将iMac的放倒来完成,但是使用iMac service wedge会更快更容易

    Incomplete guidance . Does not say how to transfer cables such as thermal sensor .

    Yuan - 回复

  25. 移除2个10.0 mm T10 螺丝。
    • 移除2个10.0 mm T10 螺丝。

    If you just want access to the HD, there is no need to remove any speaker wires - it slides over enough to access the HD screws.

    johann beda - 回复

  26. 将左侧扬声器的电缆从逻辑板上的插座中拔出。 确保已经将其从插座中拔出。 将电缆从硬盘与逻辑板之间的缝隙中取出。 如果硬盘与逻辑板之间的缝隙过于狭窄,就将电缆与逻辑板断开后将线缆先暂时放在合适位置。
    • 将左侧扬声器的电缆从逻辑板上的插座中拔出。 确保已经将其从插座中拔出。

    • 将电缆从硬盘与逻辑板之间的缝隙中取出。

    • 如果硬盘与逻辑板之间的缝隙过于狭窄,就将电缆与逻辑板断开后将线缆先暂时放在合适位置。

    I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 回复

  27. 小心 切勿触碰任何电源背板上的金属焊点。 电容内可能还有余电,对您造成伤害。 使用撬棒来切断电源键与逻辑板之间的连接。 使用撬棒来切断电源键与逻辑板之间的连接。
    • 小心 切勿触碰任何电源背板上的金属焊点。 电容内可能还有余电,对您造成伤害。

    • 使用撬棒来切断电源键与逻辑板之间的连接。

    Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

    brianyu - 回复

    The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

    Robert -

    there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

    Thomas Webb - 回复

    Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

    Joseph Ashe - 回复

    If I leave my iMac unplugged for an extended period, say 24 or 48 hours, is it still possible to get an electric shock from the PSU? Do the capacitors eventually discharge?

    Dominic Pettifer - 回复

  28. 垂直抬起左扬声器,直到电源按钮电缆露出约1.27cm 垂直抬起左扬声器,直到电源按钮电缆露出约1.27cm
    • 垂直抬起左扬声器,直到电源按钮电缆露出约1.27cm

  29. 小心的将电源按钮线缆从左扬声器的槽中取出。 小心的将电源按钮线缆从左扬声器的槽中取出。 小心的将电源按钮线缆从左扬声器的槽中取出。
    • 小心的将电源按钮线缆从左扬声器的槽中取出。

    Pay attention: if pulling out the loudspeaker tear off the wire of the power button, Apple have not any service parts except for the whole rear housing!

    Fabio Braga - 回复

  30. 将左扬声器向上提起,来与iMac分离。 如果先前硬盘与逻辑板之间的缝隙过于狭窄无法取出电缆,那么现在当您卸下扬声器的时候请轻轻拉动。 拉出扬声器的时候请引导线缆穿过硬盘驱动器支架的右下方。
    • 将左扬声器向上提起,来与iMac分离。

    • 如果先前硬盘与逻辑板之间的缝隙过于狭窄无法取出电缆,那么现在当您卸下扬声器的时候请轻轻拉动。

    • 拉出扬声器的时候请引导线缆穿过硬盘驱动器支架的右下方。

    I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

    Robert - 回复

    me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

    Alber Einsten -

    Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

    Matthew Gonzalez -

  31. 将SATA 数据/电源线向上拉起来与硬盘断开连接。 将SATA 数据/电源线向上拉起来与硬盘断开连接。
    • 将SATA 数据/电源线向上拉起来与硬盘断开连接。

    Is the WD hard drive an Apple Special with some internal rom or other thing? Planning to put in a Seagate Firecuda 2TB. Is there some special plug or temperature sensor requirement? Seems like there is only the SATA connector. Will I encounter fast fans? (can load the software to stop that). Think it’s a swap and is “easy”.

    Carl Schultz - 回复

  32. 卸下2个左硬盘驱动器支架与后壳固定的 7.3 mm T10 螺丝。
    • 卸下2个左硬盘驱动器支架与后壳固定的 7.3 mm T10 螺丝。

    If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

    Robert - 回复

    Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

    webmail54 - 回复

    Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable.

    lamajr - 回复

    Thank you iFixit for sending a T10 with magnetic tip. You saved me!

    Ben Hannam - 回复

  33. 抓住硬盘与左硬盘支架。 稍微向左将其与机箱分离。然后将其滑向左侧。 将硬盘与左硬盘支架与iMac 分离。
    • 抓住硬盘与左硬盘支架。

    • 稍微向左将其与机箱分离。然后将其滑向左侧。

    • 将硬盘与左硬盘支架与iMac 分离。

    Two notes here:  If you are using OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable, be sure to tuck the cable under the hard drive slightly.  You cannot allow the connector to sit near the top edge since this will not allow the monitor to sit flush with the chassis when it is reattached.  Additionally, the SATA connector does not seem to fit together as snuggly as when it was connect to the HDD, so tape or a plastic cable tie to keep the connection tight may be good insurance to prevent it from coming loose.

    If you are planning on dual booting with Windows 10, the Windows 10 installed failed when the SSD and HDD were both connected at the same time.  I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed.  Note: I did a fresh install on a new SSD not configured as a fusion drive.  If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape (or something similar) to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs.  Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal.  Good Luck!

    Walter Hayden - 回复

    Hi Walter, i’m looking to replace the broken fusion drive with a SSD, do i have to get the OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable?

    Gregorio Alvarado Sahli -

    Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure. Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Now you can easily scoot the speaker away from the drive mount - move it over just enough to reach the drive mount’s 2 torx fasteners beneath the edge of the speaker (a CM or two). There’s now enough room to easily remove and replace the drive assembly .

    clinton - 回复

    Just wondering if the HDD 3.5 (3TB) in my 2015 27’ 5K iMac case are the ones with the temp control firmware onboard. Just got quote from Auhorised repair centre for 2x the normal price of a 3TB drive. They say I can drop in one i source myself if I like but I don’t want to get it back and have the fans run all the time. Thanks in advance :)

    Declan Casey - 回复

  34. 取下左硬盘支架。 取下左硬盘支架。
    • 取下左硬盘支架。

    This step is unnecessary. Just leave the bracket in place and set the assembly aside.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 回复

  35. 小心 切勿触摸电源上的任何电容、导线以及暴露的触点。 只可抓取电源的边缘部分。 在电源处切断电源控制线缆。
    • 小心 切勿触摸电源上的任何电容、导线以及暴露的触点。 只可抓取电源的边缘部分。

    • 在电源处切断电源控制线缆。

    I found this cable very difficult to disconnect, be very careful because the cable is between a black tape and it's stuck very hard to the logic board and the cable is very short and you don't have space to move and separate it from the connection! Be patient and take the time you need

    MrSchaeffer - 回复

    I found than putting the flat end of the spudger at the center of the cable, and tilting it got the cable out without an issue.

    jimboom006 - 回复

    I was able to use the flat end of the spudger on the sides. You can see a tiny little clip on each side. Be very gentle!

    Joseph Ashe - 回复

  36. 卸下下列将电源与背壳固定的4个螺丝。
    • 卸下下列将电源与背壳固定的4个螺丝。

    • 2个23.7 mm T10 螺丝

    • 2个 7.3 mm T10 螺丝

    In the iMac I just bought (2016), these were not T10. I believe they are T9. Can anyone confirm?

    Morgan Crossley - 回复

    Regarding the screws on the power supply board (step 35), I can confirm these are not T10 screws as shown in the guide. In my Late 2015 Retina 5k model, the screws are T8. Morgan mentioned T9 and depending on your T9 driver, it may just barely fit but can easily slip and strip the screw. A T8 driver goes deeper in and holds the screw properly.

    smudge -

    My late 2015 model has these as T8 screws.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 回复

    Late 2015- T8 as well!! Check out this Powerbook Medic teardown video as a cross reference guide!!


    lamajr - 回复

  37. 切勿尝试将电源与背壳移除,它仍有两条线缆与逻辑板相连。 先将电源向背壳的左边移动,然后再向上使其从逻辑板的插槽中取出。 先将电源向背壳的左边移动,然后再向上使其从逻辑板的插槽中取出。
    • 切勿尝试将电源与背壳移除,它仍有两条线缆与逻辑板相连。

    • 先将电源向背壳的左边移动,然后再向上使其从逻辑板的插槽中取出。

  38. 将直流电缆直接从逻辑板背面的插座中拔出。 将直流电缆直接从逻辑板背面的插座中拔出。
    • 将直流电缆直接从逻辑板背面的插座中拔出。

    Remember to push in the disconnect tab on the large connector. Carefully insert your finger and push on the tab before you pull on the connector.

    Manuel Collazo - 回复

    Thank you Manuel, this was a tricky one.

    David Zemsky - 回复

    Yes, I pulled the whole socket out because I didn’t know about the tab. Fortunately I was able to place it back in. Not sure if it was glued or how it was anchored but it seems to have a solid connection and I can’t easily pull it out by hand. Once I plug the power cable back in should be ok.

    P. Hisada - 回复

    This connector was very difficult for me to remove (even after pushing the disconnect tab). Eventually I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to wiggle it back and forth out of the socket. A lot of the cables on the my late 2015 model were very tight and a struggle to get out.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 回复

  39. 小心 切勿触摸电源上的任何电容、导线以及暴露的触点。 只可抓取电源的边缘部分。 将电源板顶部向您,就像打开邮箱一样来找到交流电源电缆连接器。 将交流电线缆与插座断开。
    • 小心 切勿触摸电源上的任何电容、导线以及暴露的触点。 只可抓取电源的边缘部分。

    • 将电源板顶部向您,就像打开邮箱一样来找到交流电源电缆连接器。

    • 将交流电线缆与插座断开。

    To reassemble, do the same in reverse but keep power supply board more upright than slanted down when re-inserting it in to the lower right corner. The lower right screw post has an protrusion under/behind it and the Power Supply's small 2 wire plug must fit between the front of your Mac and the obstruction. Then it just slides right in and then screw it down.

    Dan H - 回复

  40. 卸下2个10.0 mm T10 螺丝。
    • 卸下2个10.0 mm T10 螺丝。

  41. 轻轻地向右摇晃右扬声器,来显露其与逻辑板的连接。 轻轻地向右摇晃右扬声器,来显露其与逻辑板的连接。
    • 轻轻地向右摇晃右扬声器,来显露其与逻辑板的连接。

  42. 使用撬棒来松开右扬声器与逻辑板上插座的连接。 将插头向右移动使其从插座中分离。 将插头向右移动使其从插座中分离。
    • 使用撬棒来松开右扬声器与逻辑板上插座的连接。

    • 将插头向右移动使其从插座中分离。

  43. 将扬声器向上提起,并从iMac中取出。 将扬声器向上提起,并从iMac中取出。 将扬声器向上提起,并从iMac中取出。
    • 将扬声器向上提起,并从iMac中取出。

    Did this tonight. I couldn’t get the right speaker out. But I was able to move it far enough to the right to be out of the way of the logic board.

    Kenneth Cluff - 回复

  44. 使用撬棒尖头来将风扇电缆的连接器与逻辑板上的插座断开。 使用撬棒尖头来将风扇电缆的连接器与逻辑板上的插座断开。 使用撬棒尖头来将风扇电缆的连接器与逻辑板上的插座断开。
    • 使用撬棒尖头来将风扇电缆的连接器与逻辑板上的插座断开。

  45. 剥下将风扇和排风管道相连的黑色带子。 将胶带放置在排风管的原位,您仅需要将连接处暴露出来,以移除风扇。
    • 剥下将风扇和排风管道相连的黑色带子。

    • 将胶带放置在排风管的原位,您仅需要将连接处暴露出来,以移除风扇。

  46. 移除将风扇和后壳固定的三颗12.4 mm T10螺丝。
    • 移除将风扇和后壳固定的三颗12.4 mm T10螺丝。

  47. 将风扇与iMac分离。 将风扇与iMac分离。
    • 将风扇与iMac分离。

    Use a piece of tape around the antenna cables to keep them in the same order, makes reassembly a little easier.

    Walter Hayden - 回复

  48. 使用一个撬棒的平端,将四个连接AirPort和蓝牙天线的连接器断开。 当重新连接电缆时,请注意每个连接器的原始位置。从左到右在逻辑板上,天线以下列顺序连接: 左边的
    • 使用一个撬棒的平端,将四个连接AirPort和蓝牙天线的连接器断开。

    • 当重新连接电缆时,请注意每个连接器的原始位置。从左到右在逻辑板上,天线以下列顺序连接:

    • 左边的

    • 顶部的

    • 右侧上部

    • 右侧下部

    My iMac has a slightly different assembly. There are 2 - T5 torx screws holding little clamps for each cable (2 clamps per screw). Certainly more secure but another size screw to deal with…

    Greg Freeman - 回复

    My iMac also same with Greg mentioned. need to T5 torx driver. A1419. Late 2015, Korean Version.

    Joseph Yang - 回复

    My 2017 has long WI-Fi card, It’s It’s a M.2, cuz no remove antenna. Undo WI-Fi card fix screws and pull out card. Easy one.

    Tanya Chachanova - 回复

  49. 这个巧妙的链接很容易被破坏。 翻转链接iSight摄像头与线缆的金属固定支架。 将相机线缆朝iMac顶部方向,从插座中拔出。
    • 这个巧妙的链接很容易被破坏。

    • 翻转链接iSight摄像头与线缆的金属固定支架。

    • 将相机线缆朝iMac顶部方向,从插座中拔出。

    During disassembly, I taped the cable up and out of the way, as it tends to get in front of things.

    Tony Ross - 回复

  50. 使用撬棒扁平的一段来将耳机孔连接线缆与逻辑板上的插座断开。 轻轻地将线缆移出。 轻轻地将线缆移出。
    • 使用撬棒扁平的一段来将耳机孔连接线缆与逻辑板上的插座断开。

    • 轻轻地将线缆移出。

  51. 移除逻辑板正面下列的螺丝。 2个23.7 mm T10螺丝
    • 移除逻辑板正面下列的螺丝。

    • 2个23.7 mm T10螺丝

    • 4个7.4 mm T10 screws螺丝

    • 1个20.8 mm T25 spacer螺丝

    • 1个 captive T10 螺丝。

    • 这些螺丝在逻辑板的螺丝孔下方,你可能需要使用一个长的螺丝刀或者从iFixit工具包中找到60mm的延展件。

    The central screw is very difficult to reach! Use a long and very thin T10 screw driver

    MrSchaeffer - 回复

    On my late 2015 there is another T10 (approx 16 mm long) on the lower edge slightly left of the hole in the logic board giving a total of 4 screws along the bottom edge.

    Konrad Skeri Ekblad - 回复

    I’ve also found an extra T10 in my late 2015 iMac

    luis - 回复

    My 2017 has small flat cable and connector on logic board. And all screws are changed to T 9

    Tanya Chachanova - 回复

    Note: the T25 spacer is behind and to the left of the logic board and below the HDD bracket.

    Tom - 回复

  52. 硬盘SATA线缆现在还不能移除,但会阻碍逻辑板的移除。 通过右侧硬盘驱动器支架拉出线缆和连接头。 将电缆移到iMac右侧,远离排风口。 通过右侧硬盘驱动器支架拉出线缆和连接头。 将电缆移到iMac右侧,远离排风口。
    • 硬盘SATA线缆现在还不能移除,但会阻碍逻辑板的移除。

    • 通过右侧硬盘驱动器支架拉出线缆和连接头。 将电缆移到iMac右侧,远离排风口。

    Anyone know if models that shipped with only a bladed SSD have the SATA cable still inside? I’m guessing probably not, but haven’t been able to confirm anywhere.

    Jesse Mitchell - 回复

    The cable was so stiff, I didn’t try to pull it through the bracket. Instead I removed the upper screw holding the right HDD bracket in place. Then I rotated it counter clockwise enough to just move the cable behind it and out of the way. Once I did that, I screwed the bracket back into place. I reversed the process when I put the machine back together. It’s a Torx-10 BTW.

    Kenneth Cluff - 回复

  53. 卸下2个在散热片顶部的5.7 mm T10 螺丝。
    • 卸下2个在散热片顶部的5.7 mm T10 螺丝。

    My model (2015) had another screw holding the heatsink duct and a stand-off holding the whole thing attached to the back. Even gently moving the logic board almost got the duct damaged till I realised what was going on so I’d suggest to be careful and DO NOT pull the logic board if it looks like it’s still attached - most likely it is!

    Carlos Ferrari - 回复

  54. 稍微倾斜向前移动逻辑板。 将逻辑板向上提起并从iMac中取出。 小心不要被背壳后的螺丝栓卡住。 将逻辑板向上提起并从iMac中取出。 小心不要被背壳后的螺丝栓卡住。
    • 稍微倾斜向前移动逻辑板。

    • 将逻辑板向上提起并从iMac中取出。 小心不要被背壳后的螺丝栓卡住。

    You should add a step about removing the sata cable here. When following the directions in reverse I forgot to put in back on and had to remove the motherboard again.

    Ken Prows - 回复

  55. 当重新组装您的iMac时,请十分小心的将外部I/O端口对其。 即使逻辑板被固定,其仍然可被弯曲。 您可以使用U盘或网线来确保逻辑板与外部开口已经对其。
    • 当重新组装您的iMac时,请十分小心的将外部I/O端口对其。 即使逻辑板被固定,其仍然可被弯曲。

    • 您可以使用U盘或网线来确保逻辑板与外部开口已经对其。

    To help me line up the IO ports, I filled all the USB ports on the back with thumb drives before I screwed the Logic board back down. Worked like a charm!

    Alex Grayson - 回复

  56. 向上拉出SATA电源线来切段电源连接 向上拔掉SATA数据线 从逻辑板上移除SATA连接线,把它取出,防止它被损坏。
    • 向上拉出SATA电源线来切段电源连接

    • 向上拔掉SATA数据线

    • 从逻辑板上移除SATA连接线,把它取出,防止它被损坏。

    Where is this cable sold

    mert - 回复

    Is this picture correct with 7 pins? Or is it form the 5k version? (See comments on that case below).

    There is an cable on eBay with 5 pins.

    Steve Nilsen - 回复

    This guide was written the year before the 5K model first came out. The cable in the photo is definitely for the model listed, although it’s always possible Apple made more than one variation.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Hey, if you got this far and your iMac is getting along in years, maybe pick up a BR2032 battery and replace the PRAM battery while you’re at it, as you have to get to this point to access it.

    Tom - 回复

  57. 移除把SSD固定在逻辑板上的一颗5.3mm T8螺丝。
    • 移除把SSD固定在逻辑板上的一颗5.3mm T8螺丝。

    What type och screw is this? I just need the measurements, is it a standard M-size screw?

    Peter - 回复

    Where can we buy and SSD like that?

    i found this one on amazon... it is not specified for imac ...


    Création site web http://www.bionique.net

    bioniqueultra - 回复

    I bought the 1TB PCIe SSD for my 5K iMac (late 2015). Worked like a charm without any hiccups; great vendor: https://beetstech.com/product/solid-stat...

    Shaheen Ghiassy - 回复

  58. 为了防止损坏插槽,请不要过度抬起SSD的末端 把SSD从末端轻轻的抬起来并把它从逻辑板上的插槽中拉出来 当你正在重新安装SSD的时候,在拧螺丝之前,请确保它已经被安装到位
    • 为了防止损坏插槽,请不要过度抬起SSD的末端

    • 把SSD从末端轻轻的抬起来并把它从逻辑板上的插槽中拉出来

    • 当你正在重新安装SSD的时候,在拧螺丝之前,请确保它已经被安装到位

    this ssd is not for a late 2013!

    this is 2012 year

    cslbox - 回复

    What do you mean? I'm going to buy a ssd to add it in my imac 27 late 2013 the came without it.

    Which part I need?

    MrSchaeffer -

    I think what he meant to say is the SSD shown (Samsun) is for a late 2013. The 2014 iMac uses a Sandisk unit (see the 5k teardown).

    Ifixit have made the mistake of referencing the late 2013 iMac teardown photos here.

    Brent -

    Actually the picture show the late 2012 pcie connector. (8+18 pins)



    After late 2013, (21.5", 27" and 27" 5K) the connector has changed. (12+16 pins)



    (You can see the actual one here : 配备英特尔处理器 27英寸5K视网膜显示屏的iMac拆解)


    After late 2013, you can only place a MacBook Pro late 2013 and after ssd !!

    Cecil His Mahier -

    which ssd used in this tutorial ?

    where can I buy ?


    AlexFull - 回复

    I Use a little bit of glue to fix the ssd pcie to the logic board

    MrSchaeffer - 回复

    Which SSD is used in this tutorial?

    Lok - 回复

    Thanks Cecil His Mahier

    hope you are right

    i bought this type http://www.macbidouille.com/news/2013/06...

    to put it in iMac 27 late 2015

    hope it will work

    Fanny Augier - 回复

    Just wondering if the SSD worked with your Imac

    "i bought this type http://www.macbidouille.com/news/2013/06...

    Jack Watkins -

    yes this is the good one

    but now i plugged the ssd

    the imac don't want to start, power supply is ok ( i tested it ), but the LEDs of the logic board are all OFF

    can someone help me ? is my logic board dead or there is special move to do when you plug something ?

    Fanny Augier -

    For people knowledge :

    i have iMac 5k late 2015

    i put exactly this SSD on it :




    ( i bought it on market like eBay )

    Fanny Augier -

    i got iMac 5k late 2015

    i confirm the SSD you can see here is working : 配备英特尔处理器 27英寸5K视网膜显示屏的iMac拆解

    i buy it on eBay

    Fanny Augier -

    I purchased the 1TB PCIe SSD for my 2015 5K iMac from here: https://beetstech.com/product/solid-stat.... Worked like a charm on High Sierra with zero hiccups. Great vendor!

    (P.S: I’m not associated with the company in any way)

    Shaheen Ghiassy - 回复


为了重新组装你的设备,请按照指示进行反向操作,并按照我们的[指南|15624|Adhesive Strips Guide]来重新贴合显示器玻璃。




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Hello, i have a 27" Imac late 2012, with a GeForce 675MX and the 3.2ghz i5 cpu.

My Imac was shipped with a 1tb HDD not the fusion-drive.

Is it possible to retrofit a SSD in this slot: http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi... (ofcourse it needs to be the orginal apple ssd, like in the macbook pro retina)



Mark Hummeluhr - 回复

So i got a Late 2012 2.9ghz Quad Core i5 with only the 1TB harddrive and not the fusion-drive. Does my iMac come with the blade ssd slot? I have a spare 128GB Samsung blade lying around which i removed from my broken macbook air. Would i be able to connect that SSD into the blade ssd slot?

Yarna Gerba - 回复

Hello, I used this tutorial to install a SATA SSD blade


Everything is very fine, single screw SSD Apple was absent.

Restart no surprise the fan packs to bottom: I use this iMac for the free application "Macs Fan Control" which is apparently the only work properly with this model iMac.


Excuse me, this is a Google translation!


Added a blade SSD - found a blade on eBay that had been pulled from a Retina Macbook Pro. I used a little anti-static high temp tape as I did not have the screw for the blade. The Apple part number for the screws is 923-0328 - ebay has them available.

Reinstalled operating system, and was easily able to set up the system as a Fusion Drive by first using Disk Utility.

giff - 回复

Thanks for the part number - awesome!

James Walsh -

Hello, I have for some time due back to something more reliable, because with the SSD Blade my iMac coming more watch out! After some research it was proven that this bug is common on the iMac 27'. I therefore looked for one SSD Apple and more worries out of standby.


Easy to follow guide but I had a real problem that I hadn't even considered until I finished and started using the computer. After following the guide to the letter I checked everything was working then I stuck the screen back on. BUT when I came to plug the external drive back in.. DISASTER! The USB and thunderbird ports hadn't aligned in the case properly. They were only out by a millimeter, and there was nothing to suggest anything was misaligned when I putting everything back together, but It meant I couldn't plug anything into the rear ports. Strip down and start again..

tim5 - 回复

I initially followed this guide trying to install an unused Mac Pro (trashcan) SSD in my 2012 iMac, but found that the Mac Pro uses the same form factor as the 2013+ Macs.

Instead, I used an adaptor from microsatacables (p/n APL-RET-BLD), a couple sata cables, a sata power splitter, and tandem 2.5 to single 3.5 drive sled to create a fusion drive in my 2012 iMac with a 1tb spinner and a 256gb Samsung 850. As an extraordinary unexpected bonus, Disk Utility recognized this setup and took care of creating the Fusion drive for me. No Terminal tricks required.

microsatacables 2012 SSD slot to SATA adaptor: http://www.microsatacables.com/sata-hdd-...

benchmark info: I did not see an appreciable performance difference between the PCIE adaptor and the built in SATA port. The 850 benchmarked at ~292 write/507 read on the adaptor and 290 write/520 read on the built-in. I'm running it on the adaptor since the cabling paths worked out happier that way

Michael Maskalans - 回复

Hi to everyone. I did this upgrade with the ssd blade but the iMac won't turn on. The first green light turn on, but when I press Power button, this light goes off and on again and never start the computer. I had installed two differents ssds and neither works. I think the problem isn't the ssd. Any idea? Thanks!

macnito - 回复

What kind interface Ssd need use? PCE?

gkhelloworld - 回复

Late 2012 27inch with 1TB HDD. I want to buy a Samsung 256 SSD Blade to put into the PCIe M.2 form factor and make it bootable. HDD will remain as a second storage option. Although is so slow that i want to throw it out the window and buy a 512 normal SSD Drive.

1. The PCIe runs AHCI 1.30 so i need a Samsung SSD AHCI Blade, right? Limited speeds up to 5-600MB/s.

2. What if i buy even a newer Samsung SSD NVMe (2000MB/s speeds), instead of AHCI, will that work? Especially with the new macOS Sierra, who is said to activate the NVMe protocol on the PCIe slot?

Cristian Talos - 回复

my fear is that i will tear appart the iMac so i can get to the M.2 slot and i will be bottelnecked by the PCI 2.0 from the present 7 Series Intel Chipset.

Cristian Talos -

Hi - sorry, I'm aware this is for SSD replacement, but I was wondering - is the RAM installed by default in this new iMac 5K 27'' of 2017 single-ranked or double-ranked? Would this RAM-Kit fit: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B019FRC... ?

Thank you!

Matthias Gansrigler - 回复

Wonderful documentation. Worked like a charm.

Gary Teichrow - 回复

I installed a 256GB blade SSD from a 2012 rMBP. Set up the fusion drive with the stock 1TB drive for 1.25TB total. It works perfectly, no abnormal fan spinning or anything.

The iMac is VERY fast now because the first 256GB of used space reside on the SSD, and if you stay under the size of the SSD, ALL data resides on it. Verified by running several tests...

Desmo - 回复

I bought this SSD: https://www.flexxmemory.co.uk/apple-mac-... -- it has a mSATA-like-but-not-exactly connector.

Gleb Dolgich - 回复

is it possible to let the blade ssd away and only work with a sata ssd?

florian-lang - 回复

Has anyone tried this kit? seems more expensive than “MICROSATACABLES.COM” kit link above.


pbedrosi - 回复

Hello, yes I tested this kit (post of 27/01/2014 and 05/08/2014)

and the problem is that the imac does not wake up because the wakeup info does not reach the SSD. 3 solutions buy an Apple SSD (I sell one of them 250go)

Solution 2 Disable Standby,

Solution 3 Purchase an M2 SSD and an M2 Adapter to Apple.



  (which I realized 2 months ago) and it works perfectly.


I would ask if can I buy the iMac with a regular HDD and add the SSD blade later?

Ibis Luzia - 回复

Hello, yes if you buy a 27 inch iMac!


@BULTEL thanks!

Ibis Luzia -

Hi all. I have a 27” iMac (2013) configured with the BTO 500gb Flash/SSD blade on purchase, so didn’t come with a HDD fitted. I want to add one (either a high volume spinny disk or another SSD, I can’t decide yet!), but I’m wondering what parts I’d need. I couldn’t imagine that Apple would include the driving mounting parts or SATA and power cables for a machine that was ordered without an HDD. Has anyone cracked one of these SSD only iMacs open to see what’s what?

markbart - 回复


Hello, sorry my imac is equipped with a HDD. But apparently all the 27-inch iMacs are equipped with the sata port and SSD blade connector.



I have a iMac 27” late 2012. Got a SAMSUNG NVME SSS 960 EVO M.2 500GB SSD for upgrade.

Will this blade ssd work for my imac?

If works can i just replace the ssd or do i need an adapter (like Sintech ST-NGFF2013-C adapter for 2013 model) So can anyone help me to get the correct adapter model no for the late 2012 imac 27”??

Thanks in advance.

napsteri4 - 回复



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