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简介

使用本指南可以借助 iFixit 电池更换套装从MacBook Pro中安全地取出内置电池。 套件中的粘合剂去除剂将溶解固定电池的粘合剂,使您可以轻松地将其移除。

“iFixit粘合剂去除剂是高度易燃的。''请'在通风良好的地方进行此项操作。 在这个过程中不要在明火附近抽烟或工作。

为了你的安全,在开始此指南之前,请先将MacBook Pro的电池电量耗尽。如果意外刺破,带电的锂离子电池可能会造成危险且无法控制的火灾。如果你的电池已经鼓包,请参考此指南

注意:用于溶解电池粘合剂的溶剂会在你的扬声器与塑料扬声器音箱接触时损坏。 所以,本指南指导你在继续使用电池之前取下扬声器。移除扬声器还需要移除其他几个组件,包括主板。

  1. 在开始此步骤之前,你必须禁用 Mac 的自动重启功能。自动重启功能会让 MacBook 在掀开盖子时自动开机。这个功能在拆卸过程中也可能会被意外触发。使用本指南或按照下面的简要说明来禁用自动启动。这项指令可能并不适用于所有 Mac。 开机,并打开终端。 将以下命令复制粘贴到(或完全键入)终端窗口中:
    • 在开始此步骤之前,你必须禁用 Mac 的自动重启功能。自动重启功能会让 MacBook 在掀开盖子时自动开机。这个功能在拆卸过程中也可能会被意外触发。使用本指南或按照下面的简要说明来禁用自动启动。这项指令可能并不适用于所有 Mac。

    • 开机,并打开终端

    • 将以下命令复制粘贴到(或完全键入)终端窗口中:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • [回车]。如果出现钥匙提示,请输入管理员密码(开机密码)并再次按[回车]。注意:您的回车键也可能标有「⏎」或 return

    • 你现在可以安全地关闭Mac电脑,并打开底壳,它不会再意外启动了。

    • 当修理完成、成功组装复原Mac电脑后,在「终端」中使用以下命令来启用「自动启动」功能:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    lamajr - 回复

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - 回复

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - 回复

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - 回复

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - 回复

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - 回复

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - 回复

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - 回复

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - 回复

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - 回复

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - 回复

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - 回复

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - 回复

  2. 开始之前,请完全关闭并拔下 MacBook Pro的电源插头。 关闭显示屏并翻转整个笔记本电脑。使用P5 五角螺丝刀卸下固定底壳的六个螺丝,长度如下:
    • 开始之前,请完全关闭并拔下 MacBook Pro的电源插头。

    • 关闭显示屏并翻转整个笔记本电脑。使用P5 五角螺丝刀卸下固定底壳的六个螺丝,长度如下:

    • 四颗 4.7 mm 螺丝

    • 两颗 6.6 mm 螺丝

    • 在拆卸螺钉时请注意螺丝的方向 —— 需要以微小的角度重新安装。

    • 在整个维修过程中,记录每个螺丝并确保它准确地回到原来的位置以避免损坏你的设备。

  3. 将抽吸手柄按到底壳前缘附近,螺丝孔之间。 提起吸力手柄,足以打开底壳下方的小间隙。
    • 将抽吸手柄按到底壳前缘附近,螺丝孔之间。

    • 提起吸力手柄,足以打开底壳下方的小间隙。

  4. 将三角撬片的角落滑入刚刚在底壳下方形成的间隙中。 将三角撬片滑动到最近的角落,然后在MacBook Pro 侧面的一半处滑动。 这将打开第一个固定底壳的隐藏夹子。你应该感受并听到弹出声。
    • 将三角撬片的角落滑入刚刚在底壳下方形成的间隙中。

    • 将三角撬片滑动到最近的角落,然后在MacBook Pro 侧面的一半处滑动。

    • 这将打开第一个固定底壳的隐藏夹子。你应该感受并听到弹出声。

  5. 在对面重复上一步,使用三角撬片打开第二个夹扣。 在对面重复上一步,使用三角撬片打开第二个夹扣。 在对面重复上一步,使用三角撬片打开第二个夹扣。
    • 在对面重复上一步,使用三角撬片打开第二个夹扣。

  6. 抬起底壳的前缘(与显示屏合页相对的一侧),使指尖滑到下面并抓住它。
    • 抬起底壳的前缘(与显示屏合页相对的一侧),使指尖滑到下面并抓住它。

    • 如果无法抓住,则盖子中间附近的两个额外隐藏的夹子可以在此时自由弹出。

    • 不要抬得太高,也不要试图拆下底壳。

  7. 将底壳牢固地拉向 MacBook 的前部(远离合页区域),以分离固定底壳的最后一个夹子。 首先在一个角落拉,然后在另一个角落拉。 往拉到一边 —— 不要往上。
    • 将底壳牢固地拉向 MacBook 的前部(远离合页区域),以分离固定底壳的最后一个夹子。

    • 首先在一个角落拉,然后在另一个角落拉。

    • 往拉到一边 —— 不要往上。

    • 此处需要很大的力气。

    With the amount of force needed to carefully pull the back panel out, this caused the back panel to scratch the battery. I don't see or hear any expansion, but this still has me concerned.

    gladgura - 回复

  8. 取下底壳。 要重新安装底壳: 将其固定到位并将滑动夹子对准显示屏合页附近。向下按并将盖子滑向合页。它应该在夹扣合上时停止滑动。
    • 取下底壳。

    • 要重新安装底壳:

    • 将其固定到位并将滑动夹子对准显示屏合页附近。向下按并将盖子滑向合页。它应该在夹扣合上时停止滑动。

    • 当滑动夹完全啮合且下壳看起来正确对齐时,用力向下按下底壳以啮合四个隐藏的夹子。你应该感觉到并听到它们啮合到位。

    If I had it all to do over, again, I would blow out the dust with compressed air at this point. During the disassembly, I kept encountering little dust bunnies, and I was very worried that one would get caught in one of the connectors when I plugged everything back up (which wouldn’t get discovered until I put it all back together and tried out all of the components).

    Joe Emenaker - 回复

  9. 剥离并取下最靠近电池的主板边缘的大矩形电池板盖。
    • 剥离并取下最靠近电池的主板边缘的大矩形电池板盖。

    • 如果盖子不易剥落,请使用 iOpener,吹风机或热风枪轻轻加热以软化下面的粘合剂,然后再试一次。

    • 如果在重新组装时盖子没有牢固就位,请尝试将其旋转180度。必须正确定位,以使下面的粘合垫与板上螺丝接触。

  10. 剥去覆盖电池板数据线接口的任何胶带。 使用撬棒轻轻撬起电池板数据线的 ZIF 接口上的锁定盖板。 使用撬棒轻轻撬起电池板数据线的 ZIF 接口上的锁定盖板。
    • 剥去覆盖电池板数据线接口的任何胶带。

    • 使用撬棒轻轻撬起电池板数据线的 ZIF 接口上的锁定盖板。

  11. 将电池板数据线从插槽中滑出,将其断开。 沿电缆方向平行于主板滑动。
    • 将电池板数据线从插槽中滑出,将其断开。

    • 沿电缆方向平行于主板滑动。

  12. 撬起并断开电池板数据线另一端接口上的锁定翻盖。 撬起并断开电池板数据线另一端接口上的锁定翻盖。
    • 撬起并断开电池板数据线另一端接口上的锁定翻盖。

  13. 将电池板数据线从电池板上的插座中滑出,然后将其完全取出。 注意不要向后或倒置安装此电缆。正确安装后,白色液体指示器标签应朝上,直接放置在电池电源接口螺丝上方。
    • 将电池板数据线从电池板上的插座中滑出,然后将其完全取出。

    • 注意不要向后或倒置安装此电缆。正确安装后,白色液体指示器标签应朝上,直接放置在电池电源接口螺丝上方。

    Bonjour, super Tuto, petite question elle sert a quoi cette nappe , et quesqui se passe si elle est pas branché ?

    Jorgio -aigleBrun- - 回复

  14. 使用 T5 Torx 螺丝刀卸下固定电池电源接口的3.7 mm 薄饼螺丝。 使用 T5 Torx 螺丝刀卸下固定电池电源接口的3.7 mm 薄饼螺丝。
    • 使用 T5 Torx 螺丝刀卸下固定电池电源接口的3.7 mm 薄饼螺丝。

  15. 使用撬棒提起电池电源接口,断开电池。 在维修时,将接口抬高到足以使其与插座分离。如果意外接触,可能会损坏你的MacBook Pro。
    • 使用撬棒提起电池电源接口,断开电池。

    • 在维修时,将接口抬高到足以使其与插座分离。如果意外接触,可能会损坏你的MacBook Pro。

    Put a little bit of insulating tape over the terminal to be safe.

    Brian Tibbels - 回复

  16. 使用T3 Torx 螺丝刀卸下固定触控板电缆盖板支架的两颗1.9 mm 螺丝。 卸下支架。
    • 使用T3 Torx 螺丝刀卸下固定触控板电缆盖板支架的两颗1.9 mm 螺丝。

    • 卸下支架。

  17. 使用撬棒断开触控板电缆,方法是将其连接器从主板垂直向上撬起。 使用撬棒断开触控板电缆,方法是将其连接器从主板垂直向上撬起。
    • 使用撬棒断开触控板电缆,方法是将其连接器从主板垂直向上撬起。

  18. 在触控板带状电缆上施加温和的热量,使粘合剂软化,使其固定在电池上。
    • 在触控板带状电缆上施加温和的热量,使粘合剂软化,使其固定在电池上。

    • 你可以使用 iOpener,吹风机或热风枪,但请注意不要使电池过热。电缆应该是温暖的,但不要太烫手。

  19. 小心地将触控板电缆从电池上剥离,然后将其推开。 请勿折叠或撕裂电缆。如果你遇到麻烦,请不要过于用力 —— 加热并再试一次。 请勿折叠或撕裂电缆。如果你遇到麻烦,请不要过于用力 —— 加热并再试一次。
    • 小心地将触控板电缆从电池上剥离,然后将其推开。

    • 请勿折叠或撕裂电缆。如果你遇到麻烦,请不要过于用力 —— 加热并再试一次。

  20. 使用T5 Torx 螺丝刀卸下固定触控板组件的13颗螺丝: 九个 5.8 mm 螺丝
    • 使用T5 Torx 螺丝刀卸下固定触控板组件的13颗螺丝:

    • 九个 5.8 mm 螺丝

    • 四个 4.9 mm 螺丝

    • 这些螺丝看起来非常相似,所以不要混淆它们。

    • 由于 Force Touch 触控板上的点击动作,这些螺丝会随着时间的推移而松动。在安装它们时添加一点缺氧胶可以帮助保证它们的安全。

    • 松散地安装螺丝并检查触控板对齐方式,然后将其拧紧。

    I dont have the “clicky” feedback from my trackpad anymore - please advise how to fix this

    Shadi Saif - 回复

  21. 将显示器略微打开,但保持 MacBook 倒置。触控板组件应分开并平放在显示屏上。 轻轻地将触控板的带状电缆穿过机箱中的插槽。 轻轻地将触控板的带状电缆穿过机箱中的插槽。
    • 将显示器略微打开,但保持 MacBook 倒置。触控板组件应分开并平放在显示屏上。

    • 轻轻地将触控板的带状电缆穿过机箱中的插槽。

  22. 当你卸下触控板组件时,请务必小心不要丢失固定在螺钉柱上的九个小金属垫圈。(它们轻轻一动就会飞出来而弄丢。) 卸下触控板组件。 卸下触控板组件。
    • 当你卸下触控板组件时,请务必小心不要丢失固定在螺钉柱上的九个小金属垫圈。(它们轻轻一动就会飞出来而弄丢。)

    • 卸下触控板组件。

  23. 使用撬棒通过将其接口从主板垂直向上撬开来断开键盘。 使用撬棒通过将其接口从主板垂直向上撬开来断开键盘。
    • 使用撬棒通过将其接口从主板垂直向上撬开来断开键盘。

  24. 使用 T3 Torx 螺丝刀,卸下固定显示屏面板柔性电缆上的盖子的两颗 3.5 mm 螺丝。 移除显示屏柔性电缆盖。
    • 使用 T3 Torx 螺丝刀,卸下固定显示屏面板柔性电缆上的盖子的两颗 3.5 mm 螺丝。

    • 移除显示屏柔性电缆盖。

  25. 使用T3 Torx 螺丝刀卸下固定显示屏面板电缆接口支架的两个 1.7 mm 螺丝。 从显示屏面板电缆接口上卸下支架。
    • 使用T3 Torx 螺丝刀卸下固定显示屏面板电缆接口支架的两个 1.7 mm 螺丝。

    • 从显示屏面板电缆接口上卸下支架。

    Help! I stripped the T3 Screw!! ?

    J S - 回复

  26. 用撬棒直接撬起以断开显示屏面板柔性电缆。 用撬棒直接撬起以断开显示屏面板柔性电缆。
    • 用撬棒直接撬起以断开显示屏面板柔性电缆。

  27. 使用 T3 Torx 螺丝刀从铰链盖上卸下四个 2.0 mm 螺丝(每侧两个螺丝)。 使用 T3 Torx 螺丝刀从铰链盖上卸下四个 2.0 mm 螺丝(每侧两个螺丝)。
    • 使用 T3 Torx 螺丝刀从铰链盖上卸下四个 2.0 mm 螺丝(每侧两个螺丝)。

  28. 移除两个铰链盖。 移除两个铰链盖。 移除两个铰链盖。
    • 移除两个铰链盖。

  29. 使用 T3 Torx 螺丝刀卸下两个 2.4 mm 螺丝,它们用于固定Touch ID和耳机插孔电缆接口的盖板支架。 卸下支架。 卸下支架。
    • 使用 T3 Torx 螺丝刀卸下两个 2.4 mm 螺丝,它们用于固定Touch ID和耳机插孔电缆接口的盖板支架。

    • 卸下支架。

    Here is a first! I did not notice this when disassembling but spent a bit of time validating I had reassembled things correctly. After 35 years of this stuff, you don’t see much new - just smaller. !

    —->The 2.4 mm screw closest to the hinge screws into the logic board screw circled in green T8 (larger head)at step 47.

    Try finding that screw in your bucket of spares!

    Brian Eustis - 回复

  30. 通过将其接口从主板垂直向上撬起来断开耳机插孔电缆。 通过将其接口从主板垂直向上撬起来断开耳机插孔电缆。
    • 通过将其接口从主板垂直向上撬起来断开耳机插孔电缆。

  31. 通过从主板垂直向上撬起接口,断开电源按钮和 Touch ID 传感器。 通过从主板垂直向上撬起接口,断开电源按钮和 Touch ID 传感器。
    • 通过从主板垂直向上撬起接口,断开电源按钮和 Touch ID 传感器。

    This smaller connector cable of the touch ID sensor that sits underneath the power sensor connector is easy to overlook when replacing the logic board. It is small & short and can easily hide. Make sure you account for it when placing the LB in and before screwing it down.

    lamajr - 回复

  32. 使用 T3 Torx 螺丝刀卸下固定 Touch Bar 数字转换器接口盖板支架的 1.3 mm 螺丝。
    • 使用 T3 Torx 螺丝刀卸下固定 Touch Bar 数字转换器接口盖板支架的 1.3 mm 螺丝。

  33. 使用镊子,将支架滑向 MacBook Pro 的侧边,直至其拆除主板上的插槽固定。 卸下支架。 卸下支架。
    • 使用镊子,将支架滑向 MacBook Pro 的侧边,直至其拆除主板上的插槽固定。

    • 卸下支架。

  34. 将 Touch Bar 数字转换器电缆从主板上垂直向上撬开,断开它。 将 Touch Bar 数字转换器电缆从主板上垂直向上撬开,断开它。
    • 将 Touch Bar 数字转换器电缆从主板上垂直向上撬开,断开它。

  35. 使用 T3 Torx 螺丝刀卸下固定 Touch Bar 显示屏电缆接口支架的两个 1.9 mm 螺丝。 卸下支架。
    • 使用 T3 Torx 螺丝刀卸下固定 Touch Bar 显示屏电缆接口支架的两个 1.9 mm 螺丝。

    • 卸下支架。

  36. 将接口从主板垂直向上撬开,断开 Touch Bar显示屏电缆的连接。 将接口从主板垂直向上撬开,断开 Touch Bar显示屏电缆的连接。
    • 将接口从主板垂直向上撬开,断开 Touch Bar显示屏电缆的连接。

  37. 使用 T3 Torx 螺丝刀: 卸下两个 1.3 mm 螺丝,将左侧的 Thunderbolt 柔性电缆盖固定。
    • 使用 T3 Torx 螺丝刀:

    • 卸下两个 1.3 mm 螺丝,将左侧的 Thunderbolt 柔性电缆盖固定。

    • 从右侧的Thunderbolt电缆盖上卸下另外两个1.3 mm 螺丝。

  38. 从两个 Thunderbolt 电缆插座上卸下盖子支架。 从两个 Thunderbolt 电缆插座上卸下盖子支架。
    • 从两个 Thunderbolt 电缆插座上卸下盖子支架。

  39. 从主板垂直向上撬开左侧Thunderbolt柔性电缆,将其断开。 从内侧边缘离风扇最近的地方撬起。 将柔性电缆接口轻轻推向侧面,以免干扰主板的拆卸。
    • 从主板垂直向上撬开左侧Thunderbolt柔性电缆,将其断开。

    • 从内侧边缘离风扇最近的地方撬起。

    • 将柔性电缆接口轻轻推向侧面,以免干扰主板的拆卸。

  40. 重复以断开另一侧的 Thunderbolt 柔性电缆接口。 小心地将柔性电缆接口推到一边,这样就可以使主板无间隙地脱离。 小心地将柔性电缆接口推到一边,这样就可以使主板无间隙地脱离。
    • 重复以断开另一侧的 Thunderbolt 柔性电缆接口。

    • 小心地将柔性电缆接口推到一边,这样就可以使主板无间隙地脱离。

  41. 通过将撬棒的扁平端滑动到接口附近的每根电缆下方,断开两个扬声器接口。 轻轻扭动或撬起以断开两个扬声器。 轻轻扭动或撬起以断开两个扬声器。
    • 通过将撬棒的扁平端滑动到接口附近的每根电缆下方,断开两个扬声器接口。

    • 轻轻扭动或撬起以断开两个扬声器。

    Both had a dab of glue underneath. I used heat gun to loosen.

    lamajr - 回复

    On this step, it helped to use the tip of sharp tweezers to open the small metal tab of the connector to the side.

    Rodrigo Damazio Bovendorp - 回复

  42. 剥去覆盖麦克风电缆接口插座的任何胶带。 剥去覆盖麦克风电缆接口插座的任何胶带。
    • 剥去覆盖麦克风电缆接口插座的任何胶带。

    Wenn möglich das Klebeband nicht abziehen! Zwei Schritte weiter bist Du froh darum.

    Stephan Zenger - 回复

  43. 通过从主板垂直向上撬开麦克风电缆的ZIF接口,打开锁定翻盖。 通过从主板垂直向上撬开麦克风电缆的ZIF接口,打开锁定翻盖。 通过从主板垂直向上撬开麦克风电缆的ZIF接口,打开锁定翻盖。
    • 通过从主板垂直向上撬开麦克风电缆的ZIF接口,打开锁定翻盖。

  44. 将电缆拉向风扇,直至其从插座中松开,从而断开麦克风的连接。 如果可能,请拉动连接到电缆的胶带,而不是电缆本身,以降低损坏的风险。
    • 将电缆拉向风扇,直至其从插座中松开,从而断开麦克风的连接。

    • 如果可能,请拉动连接到电缆的胶带,而不是电缆本身,以降低损坏的风险。

  45. 使用 T5 Torx 螺丝刀卸下固定天线电缆束的单个 2.9 mm 螺丝。 使用 T5 Torx 螺丝刀卸下固定天线电缆束的单个 2.9 mm 螺丝。
    • 使用 T5 Torx 螺丝刀卸下固定天线电缆束的单个 2.9 mm 螺丝。

  46. 从插座中垂直向上撬开所有三根天线电缆。 将镊子或撬棒的扁平端滑到每根电缆下方,直到它靠近插座,然后轻轻扭动或撬起以断开连接。 要重新连接每根电缆,请将接口直接对准其插槽,然后向下按,使其卡入到位。
    • 从插座中垂直向上撬开所有三根天线电缆。

    • 将镊子或撬棒的扁平端滑到每根电缆下方,直到它靠近插座,然后轻轻扭动或撬起以断开连接。

    • 要重新连接每根电缆,请将接口直接对准其插槽,然后向下按,使其卡入到位。

  47. 卸下固定主板组件的所有十个螺丝: 两个 2.6 mm T3 Torx螺丝
    • 卸下固定主板组件的所有十个螺丝:

    • 两个 2.6 mm T3 Torx螺丝

    • 五个2.9 mm T5 Torx螺丝

    • 一个3.7 mm T5 Torx螺丝

    • 一个3.9 mm T8 Torx 螺丝(大头)

    • 一个4.0 mm T8 Torx 螺丝

    • 在重新组装过程中,只能松散地安装这些螺钉。如有必要,调整面板位置,直到所有接口对齐,然后拧紧螺丝。

  48. 将两个橡胶减振条从粘合剂上剥离(但不要除去),将它们固定在风扇上。 如果需要,使用iOpener,吹风机或热风枪轻轻加热以软化粘合剂,使阻尼器更容易分离。 如果需要,使用iOpener,吹风机或热风枪轻轻加热以软化粘合剂,使阻尼器更容易分离。
    • 将两个橡胶减振条从粘合剂上剥离(但不要除去),将它们固定在风扇上。

    • 如果需要,使用iOpener,吹风机或热风枪轻轻加热以软化粘合剂,使阻尼器更容易分离。

  49. 主板组件是紧密配合的,但是你可以通过在左边缘下方插入一个撬棒并轻轻地将其拉出来使其更容易移除。 移除主板时应该没有阻力。仔细检查所有电缆,如果需要,将它们放在一边,这样它们就不会卡在电路板上。
    • 主板组件是紧密配合的,但是你可以通过在左边缘下方插入一个撬棒并轻轻地将其拉出来使其更容易移除。

    • 移除主板时应该没有阻力。仔细检查所有电缆,如果需要,将它们放在一边,这样它们就不会卡在电路板上。

    • 从左侧抬起,取下主板。

  50. 重新安装主板组件时: 检查橡胶减振器的对齐情况,并根据需要进行调整。 将天线电缆束穿过主板和散热器之间的间隙,并确保在将电路板降低到位时正确对齐。
    • 重新安装主板组件时:

    • 检查橡胶减振器的对齐情况,并根据需要进行调整。

    • 将天线电缆束穿过主板和散热器之间的间隙,并确保在将电路板降低到位时正确对齐。

    • 确认在安装时没有电缆被困在电路板下面。仔细检查每个标记的位置。

    Would be good to mention (at the end of instructions here) to pay special attention on reassembly that the Touch ID and power button cable does not slip under the logic board at the last moment7

    Wolf Naegeli - 回复

  51. 卸下固定电池板的两颗螺丝: 2016-2017 款: 使用T5 Torx螺丝刀卸下两个3.5毫米螺丝。
    • 卸下固定电池板的两颗螺丝:

    • 2016-2017 款: 使用T5 Torx螺丝刀卸下两个3.5毫米螺丝。

    • 2018-2019款:使用P2 五角螺丝刀拆下3.2 mm 螺丝。

    On my mid 2018 15.3” i9 MBP the battery board screws were PL1

    Brian Eustis - 回复

    On my mid 2018 15.3 i9 MBP the keyboard cable is farther to the left (as shown at Step 23)! When reinstalling, make sure it is under the battery cable and its connector sticking up between the battery cable and the aluminum battery frame.

    Wolf Naegeli - 回复

    So if I’ve understood correctly, almost all the above could have been skipped if apple just made these two screws accessible? Wow, just wow

    Nathan Skene - 回复

  52. 套件中提供的液体粘合剂去除剂可能会损坏MacBook Pro显示屏上的抗反射涂层以及塑料键盘键。 为了保护你的显示器,请在显示器和键盘之间放置一张铝箔,并在工作时将其留在那里。 此外,尽可能使用画家的胶带密封触控板下方的区域。或者,你也可以直接在触控板区域下面铺上吸水毛巾,以吸收多余的粘合剂去除剂。
    • 套件中提供的液体粘合剂去除剂可能会损坏MacBook Pro显示屏上的抗反射涂层以及塑料键盘键。

    • 为了保护你的显示器,请在显示器和键盘之间放置一张铝箔,并在工作时将其留在那里。

    • 此外,尽可能使用画家的胶带密封触控板下方的区域。或者,你也可以直接在触控板区域下面铺上吸水毛巾,以吸收多余的粘合剂去除剂。

    I didn’t have any solution and was hesitant to simply use an Isopropyl Alcohol solution of any concentration let along subject my electronics to liquid and aluminum foil, so I simply took a card (something between a metrocard and credit card… i used a rewards card) and brute forced the adhesive while dry (making sure to direct the bulk of the force laterally and not down into the screen below and mostly wiggle back and forth instead of straight on). About 10 minutes later with a sore hand it worked just fine and avoided steps 52-62. (You may want to try the string method detailed in step 62 if stubborn and after started with card.

    ajm0824 - 回复

  53. 要控制粘合剂去除剂的流动,请使用书本或泡沫块将 MacBook Pro 的后边缘(铰链面)抬高几英寸。 要控制粘合剂去除剂的流动,请使用书本或泡沫块将 MacBook Pro 的后边缘(铰链面)抬高几英寸。
    • 要控制粘合剂去除剂的流动,请使用书本或泡沫块将 MacBook Pro 的后边缘(铰链面)抬高几英寸。

  54. 现在你的MacBook Pro已经完全准备好了,现在是时候准备好了。 iFixit粘合剂去除剂含有丙酮,温和的皮肤和眼睛刺激性。
    • 现在你的MacBook Pro已经完全准备好了,现在是时候准备好了。

    • iFixit粘合剂去除剂含有丙酮,温和的皮肤和眼睛刺激性。

    • 处理和使用粘合剂去除剂时请戴上护目镜。(套件中包含护目镜。)

    • 戴护目镜时不要戴隐形眼镜。

    • 套件中还包括防护手套。如果您担心可能的皮肤刺激,请立即戴上手套。

  55. 从你的粘合剂去除剂瓶中取下黑色橡胶塞。 在切割涂抹器尖端之前拧开以松开或取下瓶盖。 这会打开瓶子并在切割涂抹器尖端之前使压力均衡。如果跳过此步骤,粘合剂去除器可能会在切割尖端时意外喷出。
    • 从你的粘合剂去除剂瓶中取下黑色橡胶塞。

    • 在切割涂抹器尖端之前拧开以松开或取下瓶盖。

    • 这会打开瓶子并在切割涂抹器尖端之前使压力均衡。如果跳过此步骤,粘合剂去除器可能会在切割尖端时意外喷出。

    • 用剪刀剪掉涂抹器的密封尖端。

    • 靠近狭窄的尖端切割将使您获得更好的控制,

    • 因此你可以少量使用粘合剂去除剂。在进一步操作之前,请拧紧并关闭瓶盖。

    Eignet sch auch Isopropyl-Alkohol 99,9%?

    Felix - 回复

  56. 在靠近风扇的边缘开始,在右侧的两个电池单元下方涂抹几滴粘合剂去除剂。 你不需要使用太多。小瓶子含有的溶剂量是拆除所有电池所需溶剂量的两倍以上。
    • 在靠近风扇的边缘开始,在右侧的两个电池单元下方涂抹几滴粘合剂去除剂。

    • 你不需要使用太多。小瓶子含有的溶剂量是拆除所有电池所需溶剂量的两倍以上。

    The bottle may (will!) squirt liquid. I used a bit of absorbant paper around the tip while turning the bottle upside down and putting the tip where it needs to go. Be especially careful not to drip liquid onto the speakers.

    For this type of work I always have a roll of thick toilet paper nearby: its leaves are smaller than those of kitchen paper.

    Robert Cailliau - 回复

  57. 在右侧的两个电池单元之间添加几滴粘合剂去除剂,使其在下部电池单元下方流下。 等待约两分钟,液体粘合剂去除剂渗透并削弱电池粘合剂,然后再进行下一步。
    • 在右侧的两个电池单元之间添加几滴粘合剂去除剂,使其在下部电池单元下方流下。

    • 等待约两分钟,液体粘合剂去除剂渗透并削弱电池粘合剂,然后再进行下一步。

  58. 几分钟后,将塑料卡的一角插入电池下方,从底部最右边的电池开始。 这不需要太大的力量。如果您遇到问题,请使用更多的粘合剂去除剂,并再浸2-3分钟。 尽量不要让电池变形。损坏或刺破的电池可能会泄漏危险化学品和/或着火。
    • 几分钟后,将塑料卡的一角插入电池下方,从底部最右边的电池开始。

    • 这不需要太大的力量。如果您遇到问题,请使用更多的粘合剂去除剂,并再浸2-3分钟。

    • 尽量不要让电池变形。损坏或刺破的电池可能会泄漏危险化学品和/或着火。

    • 将卡从一侧向另一侧摆动,并将其完全滑到两个电池单元下方。

    • 提起电池以完全分离粘合剂,但不要尝试将其从MacBook中取出。

    • 将塑料卡暂时放在电池下面,以防止粘合剂在进行下一步时重新粘合。

    I had a great deal of difficulty loosening the batteries. The solvent seemed to have little effect on the adhesive strips. Despite efforts, I deformed the batteries trying to get them free.

    Kent Folsom - 回复

    I also had a great deal of difficulty. I had to apply the adhesive remover 5 times before I could wiggle the card underneath the first battery sections. And it left the adhesive on the computer case; it did not remove the adhesive along with the battery sections.

    rileybk - 回复

    Took me three applications of adhesive remover. Think it really is about wiggling though.

    Nathan Skene - 回复

    It took me about 10 minutes or so to remove all battery modules. I used the adhesive remover as per the guide and also used the card with the corner doing most of the penetration instead of the blunt end. I also would gently wiggle the battery up and down while I applied more adhesive remover to allow it a better chance of getting underneath. BTW, my adhesive strips ran left to right and not back to front on the outer batteries, so I would think it would be more ideal to put the adhesive remover down the left and right sides of the outer batteries. The inner batteries (under trackpad) adhesive strips ran front to back. Keep this in mind when using the remover to loosen them up.

    Steven Wonder - 回复

    Once one of the packs is loose, stick a leaf of toilet paper under it, so that it cannot stick to the body again, while you are working on the other packs.

    Robert Cailliau - 回复

  59. 切换到MacBook Pro的左侧,然后重复上一步以分离另外两个电池。 暂时将第二张塑料卡留在原位。 暂时将第二张塑料卡留在原位。
    • 切换到MacBook Pro的左侧,然后重复上一步以分离另外两个电池。

    • 暂时将第二张塑料卡留在原位。

  60. 沿着两个中央电池单元的顶部边缘涂抹几滴粘合剂去除剂。 在这两个电池下方的底盘中有开口,这使得粘合剂去除剂可以泄漏并且可以防止其完全穿透。 注意泄漏,如果需要,沿侧边涂抹更多的粘合剂去除剂。
    • 沿着两个中央电池单元的顶部边缘涂抹几滴粘合剂去除剂。

    • 在这两个电池下方的底盘中有开口,这使得粘合剂去除剂可以泄漏并且可以防止其完全穿透。

    • 注意泄漏,如果需要,沿侧边涂抹更多的粘合剂去除剂。

  61. 几分钟后,取出你的第一张塑料卡,并在其中一个中央电池单元的顶部边缘下方插入一个角。 从一侧到另一侧摆动并将其滑到电池单元下方,直到所有粘合剂分离。 如果遇到问题,请勿过度用力,不要让电池变形。使用更多粘合剂去除剂并重试,或跳过两个步骤以获得替代方法。
    • 几分钟后,取出你的第一张塑料卡,并在其中一个中央电池单元的顶部边缘下方插入一个角。

    • 从一侧到另一侧摆动并将其滑到电池单元下方,直到所有粘合剂分离。

    • 如果遇到问题,请勿过度用力,不要让电池变形。使用更多粘合剂去除剂并重试,或跳过两个步骤以获得替代方法。

    Once you get the card edge under a cell, you can apply a couple of drops on top of the card and it will flow down to the working edge of the card. This will make moving the card back and forth a lot easier.

    Scott Shore - 回复

  62. 取回你的第二张塑料卡并重复上一步以分离剩余的中央电池。 取回你的第二张塑料卡并重复上一步以分离剩余的中央电池。 取回你的第二张塑料卡并重复上一步以分离剩余的中央电池。
    • 取回你的第二张塑料卡并重复上一步以分离剩余的中央电池。

  63. 如果你无法将卡放在任何电池单元下面,请尝试在电池单元下方使用一块牙线或电线,并以锯切动作左右拉动以分离粘合剂。
    • 如果你无法将卡放在任何电池单元下面,请尝试在电池单元下方使用一块牙线或电线,并以锯切动作左右拉动以分离粘合剂。

    • 戴上厚手套或将牙线缠绕在几个手柄上,以免伤到手指。

    Wouldnt the wire damage the underside of the cells?

    Tom Jackson - 回复

    Yes, but you should never re-use a glued-down battery after removing it like this. These batteries are not designed to be re-used, and can pose a fire risk even when removed carefully.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I used dental floss + pastic card for the middle part. Avoided using the adhesive remover for the middle ones.

    Neil Robinson - 回复

    I didn’t have to resort to this method, but if I did I would think some fishing line would be a good option. Put some candle wax on it if it starts to bind. I use this method to remove car dash phone holders that are siliconed down to the dash.

    Steven Wonder - 回复

    I used this method, (while waiting for the iFixIt glue dissolver kit: was over a weekend; so too late). Works well with a strong, doubled (with slight, about 1 turn per cm, twist) 25SWG (0.5mm, 0.02inch) copper wire, wrapped around spare small screwdriver handles. Ensure that the angle of the wire is _very_ _flat_ while ‘sawing’ slowly; take your time, quite a lot of force is required to sheer through the spongy pads in places. I started with the 2 larger central cells to refine the technique.

    Shawn Marston - 回复

  64. 抬起并取出电池。 在安装新电池之前,请从MacBook Pro的外壳中取出所有剩余的粘合剂。
    • 抬起并取出电池。

    • 在安装新电池之前,请从MacBook Pro的外壳中取出所有剩余的粘合剂。

    • 使用镊子或带手套的手指剥去任何大条粘合剂。

    • 用塑料工具刮掉剩余的粘合剂块,并用粘合剂去除剂或异丙醇清洁下面的区域。向一个方向擦拭(不来回),直到机箱清洁并为新电池做好准备。

    • 这可能需要相当多的工作,所以要耐心等待。

    Mine was very difficult to remove and clean. I spent forever trying to clean up the residue. However, I tried 70% isopropyl on two bays and the iFixit adhesive remover in the other two, and covered with food plastic wrap. Went to lunch and when I got back I used razor blade scraper (like used to remove stickers from glass), and it was pretty easily cleaned. Both chemicals worked just as well. Just soak and let the chemicals do the work.

    Philip Edelbrock - 回复

    I didn’t use any solution to remove the battery and found that using the plastic tool to start an adhesive strip I was able to pull each one off by hand in one shot

    ajm0824 - 回复

    I found the best way to do this was to put the hairdrier on the adhesive for a few seconds, then it just peeled off in one go. Wasted a lot of time trying to scratch them off before this.

    Nathan Skene - 回复

    SECOND THIS ADVICE!! Use a hairdryer it will save you a lot of time and the old adhesive will come off much, much cleaner

    Judah Trimmer -

  65. 在粘贴之前,请仔细检查新电池的合适性和对齐情况。 在早期型号上,请注意电池数据线,并确保它不会被挤压或困在电池板下面。 如果你的电池预装在底部,请将其翻转并小心地剥离衬垫以露出粘合剂。如果你的电池没有附带粘合剂,请使用薄的双面胶带(如Tesa 61395)将电池放在适当的位置。
    • 在粘贴之前,请仔细检查新电池的合适性和对齐情况。

    • 在早期型号上,请注意电池数据线,并确保它不会被挤压或困在电池板下面。

    • 如果你的电池预装在底部,请将其翻转并小心地剥离衬垫以露出粘合剂。如果你的电池没有附带粘合剂,请使用薄的双面胶带(如Tesa 61395)将电池放在适当的位置。

    • 小心放置电池并将其放置到位。

    • 将每个电池牢牢按住5-10秒钟,将其固定在下壳上。

    In this photo, the holes that are shown in Step 51, where it states, “2018-2019 models: Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove both 3.2 mm screws,” are in a different position, so that re-securing the battery board doesn’t seem possible.

    Sarr Sheffer - 回复

    Step 51 shows the correct procedure for two different models; this step shows only one model, because the procedure here works for both. Order the correct replacement battery for your model, and you’ll have no problem.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I strongly recommend re-installing the touchpad BEFORE installing the battery. Doing that and feeding the ribbon cable through the correct slot will ensure that you don’t block the path of the cable. I did not do this and had to cut some of the framing plastic away to give me just a bit more slack to be able to reconnect the cable.

    After you have the touchpad back in, do a “dry” fit of the battery to make sure you see how the battery should go in so you don’t affect the ribbon cable. Then you can peel off the adhesive protection strips to secure the battery.

    Les Hartzman - 回复

    After reading this comment I went straight back to steps 19/20 and reversed them before installing the battery… will update if something is notable!

    Nathan Skene -

    Be careful here. When I went to peel up the liner on one of the batteries the adhesive strip came up with it. It should be smooth under the liner. If you start seeing ragged adhesive, stop peeling, push it back down, and try another corner.

    J D - 回复

    The version i got had the individual adhesives stuck to what look like tempered plastic that covered the whole battery. Removing the main plastic took off all adhesives at the same time. Its usefull to have another set of hands at this stage.

    Neil Robinson - 回复

    I had the same problem as others with the adhesive sticking harder to the plastic cover than to the batteries themselves. Another set of hands here would indeed be useful. This was actually the hardest step of the entire process as you cannot reposition the batteries once you set them down. Luckily it seems there is at least a little wiggle room in there. Make sure the power connection lines up with its screw holes as the number one priority.

    james - 回复

    I took off the top side full cover of plastic before sticking which meant all the individual cells were flopping about - leave it on until after sticking it down (as per the next step!).

    Jonathan Batchelor - 回复

    Unsticking the packs is messy and dangerous since they may tear if too much force is applied, especially if swollen.

    But do they need to be glued in?

    The batteries should not move: in time that would damage the connections. Measuring carefully, the space between the unibody and its lower case is 8.2mm. The thinnest packs are 7.0mm: there is some room.

    Instead of taking the protective sheets off the glue patches, I put bits of double-sided tape on top. The batteries are now easier to remove, but they cannot slide around.

    However, after turning the machine upside up, they are in fact “hanging” from the “ceiling”! My office tape solution works, but the thinner packs might in time unstick and fall down.

    It may be advisable to use the strong glue anyway, or else put some thermally conductive silicone sponge between them and the lower case.

    The batteries are under the palms of your hands: they don’t get warm, leaving the protective sheets on should not have any effect. The unibody case there is 0.8mm thick.

    Robert Cailliau - 回复

  66. 正确放置和安装电池后,将其剥离并从顶部丢弃透明塑料衬垫。 确保衬里不会意外地拉掉任何黑色电池组件覆盖物。如果需要,在剥离衬垫时使用镊子将它们固定到位。
    • 正确放置和安装电池后,将其剥离并从顶部丢弃透明塑料衬垫。

    • 确保衬里不会意外地拉掉任何黑色电池组件覆盖物。如果需要,在剥离衬垫时使用镊子将它们固定到位。

    • 校准新安装的电池:将其充电至100%,并继续充电至少2小时。拔下电源并正常使用以排空电池。当您看到低电量警告时,请保存您的工作,并保持笔记本电脑一直打开,直到它因电池电量不足而进入睡眠状态。等待至少5个小时,然后不间断地将笔记本电脑充电至100%。

    • 如果你在安装新电池后发现任何异常行为或问题,则可能需要重置MacBook的SMC。

    In order to not remove everything, I reduce the procedure in following only steps 1 to 18 (until trackpad cable is pushed away).

    Then I removed the “low “ screws of step 46 in order to losen the fixation of “bottom” of the motherboard, as there is no room to remove the battery board and its ribbons).

    Then I removed the two screws of the step 50 (battery board). To take off the glued battery, I used twine or thread (e.g. as shown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...) but not acetone nor diluant.

    Then I lifted very carefully the bottom of the motherboard both to push away the battery board and its ribbons and to reinsert the new battery board and ribbons.

    Then I proceed backward to remount (step 50, step 46 then step 18 to 1).

    Note: my “old” battery was so inflated that the two screws of the lower case near the trackpad were difficult to remove (sometimes, this leads to a malfunctioning…

    Thank to Jeff for this overall procedure which helps me a lot.

    jompo - 回复

    Did they change the step numbers? You mention step 46 and 50, but now it looks like these are steps 47 and 51.

    strells -

    wow, this was awesome. thanks whoever wrote it. very well described.

    Astrit Mulla - 回复

    I did the same a @jumbo . So, I’d be happy to rewrite this into a much shorter and less hazard format as @jumbo suggests which works perfectly and has many fewer steps and less risk of injury to the trackpad, motherboard and connected components. I did this in about an hour on my MacBook Pro late 2016.

    Marc Marchioli - 回复

    Plastic liner is not releasing from the battery cells. If I hold the foam pad in place the plastic sheet rips the foam.

    Lee Gwaltney - 回复

    Missing one critical helpful notation and photo on the reassembly part - a checklist of all the cables and connectors that need to be checked to make sure they are not caught under the motherboard. I missed the keyboard cable and it cost me half an hour. I checked off all the ones I could remember to make sure they were clear, but just missed that one. A photo with circles and a checklist would be a big help to make sure everything is clear. Otherwise, everything was very well done.

    J Wade Caldwell Jr - 回复

    That’s in Step 49. Easy to miss, but it’s there! I feel your pain though, I’ve made that same mistake.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think that was the same cable I missed… at the bottom by the battery connector. I mentioned it to ifixit to add a checklist as well…. Who is responsible for editing this guide? Do you know?

    robert -

    I did the same thing as @jompo did. Works perfectly fine. Thank you jompo, thanks to the author and thank you ifixit team.

    artoo - 回复

    OK well, followed the instructions to the word, & pleased to say my problem has now been resolved. So very many thanks for the fix kit & cracking easy to follow instructions. The MacBookPro lives to fight another day.

    rayholliman - 回复

    in knapp 3h habe ich den Akku gewechselt gehabt, passt auf die Unterlegscheiben vom Trackpad auf… die gehen schnell verloren und das Tastaturkabel vergisst man auch mal ganz schnell. Der Guide ist eine super Hilfe gewesen und ohne den hätte ich sicher das MBP noch nicht mal aufbekommen.

    swordper - 回复

    Only 67,000 easy steps!

    Billy HW - 回复

    that’s what I thought :D But as others mentioned it can be reduced to a nice amount of steps. but anyway: I think producers should make their products waaaay easier to restore those parts like accumulator, ram, HD or even processor cores.. long live the good old desktop pc with motherboards as big and heavy as macbook airs from nowadays ;)

    julia.kadauke -

    Great instructions I finally got my mac book back alive! I am noticing that the battery settings do not show that it is charging even though it is plugged in…tried resetting the SMC still nothing indicating it is charging…I have no idea if it is calibrating correctly. Has been plugged in for about 2 hours but only indicates a 30% charge

    Judah Trimmer - 回复

结论

请按逆序重组你的设备。

把你的电子废料带到 R2 或 e-Stewards 认证的回收商.

维修未按计划进行?请查阅论坛 来获取帮助。

3等其他人完成本指南。

特别感谢这些译者︰

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Jeff Suovanen

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Hey, is it possible to replace battery without removing a logic board? It was possible on 2017 models.

avxkim - 回复

@webcoder It’s similar to the 2017 design. I’m not sure how you’d replace the battery in either model without removing the board first, since the battery cables are routed underneath the board.

Jeff Suovanen -

Where can I buy the battery? It is not available for iFixit?

Andres Torres - 回复

Hello,

Is it the same procedure for a Macbook pro 13’’ Touch Bar 2019 ?

Thank you

PGCD - 回复

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