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简介

用这条指导来交换上部机身。

一些交换上部机身的步骤中可能包括对触摸板以及电池的操作。如果有这种情况,跳过18至44的步骤。

这条指导需要拆除散热铁。在你重新安装散热铁之前不要忘了按照我们的的 涂散热膏指南来涂散热膏。

    • 拆下以下10个固定在上壳体上的螺丝

    • 两个 2.3毫米 的梅花五角螺丝

    • 八个 3.0毫米 的梅花五角螺丝

    • 在本次维修中,要对每个螺丝做好记录以便准确装回,避免对设备造成伤害。

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - 回复

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - 回复

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - 回复

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - 回复

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - 回复

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - 回复

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - 回复

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - 回复

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - 回复

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - 回复

    Installation of replacement AirPort card was easier than I had expected thanks to this guide. Thank you.

    chaslaw - 回复

    I use replaced SSD and it was super easy and working great. I can finally upgrade Mac OS with plenty of room to spare and no more low memory alerts. Well worth investment and didn’t have to buy new laptop

    Pete James - 回复

    It's interesting that this tutorial is rated Moderate even though you need to remove the battery. The battery removal tutorial which is basically the same but with fewer steps is rated Difficult.

    Marv Ruona - 回复

    when i pulled the screws out i arranged them in the same way they were in. the top 2 middle screws appeared to be shorter than the rest. in order to keep them in place i got a square of packing tape sticky side up, taped both sides down with 2 other pieces of tape. and then put the screws head down in the order i pulled them.

    Jason Wade - 回复

  1. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 2 中的图像 1,1
    • 把你的手指放在上下壳体中间

    • 轻轻地把上下壳体拉开

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - 回复

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - 回复

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman - 回复

  2. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 3 中的图像 1,2 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 3 中的图像 2,2
    • 上下壳体中间有两个塑料卡扣相连

    • 在组装期间,温柔地从中间推下机壳,重新扣上这两个塑料卡扣。

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - 回复

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - 回复

    If you’re doing an iFixIt battery replacement, the replacement battery has two rubber nubs which are right where the clips are that receive these studs. Folks have been saying it’s hard to get the studs to clip back in after replacement, and I had the same issue. I trimmed the top of these rubber nubs, which are a bit bigger than those on the original battery, with some side cutters. That made the fit much better.

    Rob Gorbet - 回复

  3. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身, 电池连接器: 步骤 4 中的图像 1,1
    • 如有必要,可拆卸粘在电池接触板上的塑料盖。

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - 回复

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - 回复

    Dear Sir,

    as you seem to be very much experienced with battery replacements you might perhaps give me a hint why after having removed the battery pack successfilly, the keyboard doesn't work anymore after booting the system. The Touchpad works, the keyboard backlight works but typing does not function at all.

    I only disconnected the battery connector and touched nothing else. I am quite desperate …

    Gerd Uyan -

    I agree with Dave la Rose, provided you use heat rather than solvent to remove the old battery (or possibly floss, haven’t done that). Please see my comment further down this thread on how to use an iOpener for correctly heating the glue joint

    I. Margaronis - 回复

  4. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 5 中的图像 1,2 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 5 中的图像 2,2
    • 用撬棒的平端,将电池连接器从主板插座上直着往上撬起。

    • 确保您只抬起了连接器本身,而不是插座,否则您可能会对主板造成永久性的损坏。

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - 回复

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - 回复

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - 回复

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - 回复

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg - 回复

    Thank you Richie I was trying to lift the socket.

    be careful the little square block is actually made of 2 parts and you only have to lift the upper part as Richie said

    ilyes - 回复

    You can do it from the side like the picture, but i would recommend twisting almost like a screw driver once you have leverage under the overhanging part of the left side like in the picture. Twist the tool so that it starts to put pressure on the top, until you’ll hear it click out. You can be somewhat forceful but it shouldn’t require a lot of strength. Guiding the tool with one hand and twisting with the other is a good way to attempt this.

    Colin Nowers - 回复

    After I put the battery back I found out at this step that the new battery connector was off by 2 mm (because I installed my battery slightly off). Since the connector is rigid, I removed it’s plastic cover (just like we all did in Step 4) to free the cable, which allowed me to bent it enough to properly plug the connector.

    Marc - 回复

  5. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 6 中的图像 1,1
    • 在维修过程中,将电池连接器弯曲,以防止意外接触其插座。

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - 回复

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - 回复

  6. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身, 右扬声器: 步骤 7 中的图像 1,2 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身, 右扬声器: 步骤 7 中的图像 2,2
    • 移除两颗将逻辑板和I/O板线缆固定支架的2.1mm T5 梅花螺丝。

    • 移除I/O板线缆支架。

    Do you know where I can purchase the i/o board cable bracket?

    jodieabc - 回复

    On my Mac they are p6 screws, not T5?!

    tyler.aman - 回复

  7. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 8 中的图像 1,2 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 8 中的图像 2,2
    • 使用撬棒扁平的一端来从逻辑板插座上撬起I/O板插头。

    • 小心,仅撬起I/O板线缆,而不是插座本身。这样会损坏逻辑板。

    Since I did not remove speakers I skipped this step and went directly to step 17

    Peter Stoll - 回复

    I don’t understand why the instructions would tell you to remove the speakers if it wasn’t necessary. Can the battery be replaced WITHOUT removing the speakers?

    iwm4 - 回复

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step (Step 8) is not required, nor are any of the other steps that involve removing the left and right speakers. It is possible to remove the old battery and install a new battery without removing the speakers.

    Luke Schoen - 回复

    I couldn’t skip steps 12 & 15 because the speaker assemblies are holding down parts of the battery.

    Dave Olsen - 回复

    the speaker are better to be unscrewed but not disconnected. You can just turn them away from the battery while replacing and proceed to step 17.

    Igor Kapitanker - 回复

    I did this as suggested and it was much easier than disconnecting entirely

    N DesRochers -

    This video shows battery replacement without removing speakers.

    https://youtu.be/Lue6lVWhh4o

    Jerry Laufer -

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — solvent will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable.

    (Whether to disconnect the speakers is a judgment call, but removing them from the battery cavity is important.)

    John Hawkinson - 回复

  8. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 9 中的图像 1,2 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 9 中的图像 2,2
    • 径直提起逻辑板上I/O板线缆的尾端,来将其弯折远离插座。

    • 防止损坏线缆,请在I/O板线缆的尾端弯折。

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen - 回复

  9. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 10 中的图像 1,2 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 10 中的图像 2,2
    • 小心的在右扬声器下方放置撬棒的尖端,并将其从逻辑板上的插座中撬起。

    I have performed battery swap without disconnecting the speakers!

    Aleš Smokvina - 回复

    Did that mean that you left the speakers attached to the case? If so, did that make removing the end sections of the battery very difficult? Thanks.

    iwm4 - 回复

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen - 回复

    On mine the cable connector pulls out to the left, not upwards

    John Harland - 回复

  10. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 11 中的图像 1,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 11 中的图像 2,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 11 中的图像 3,3
    • 小心地从顶壳上撬起右扬声器。

    I have successfully replaced battery without removing the speaker cables, as proposed by the comments in the next steps.

    Furthermore, in the steps after 22, where the battery is removed from the upper case, I have easily performed with a credit card and a drop of rubbing alcohol on it and finished in several minutes. Try it!

    kem - 回复

    Kem, please could you explain how you got the end battery sections out of the case with the speakers still attached. Still very puzzled by this!

    iwm4 - 回复

  11. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 12 中的图像 1,1
    • 移除将右扬声器和顶壳固定的螺丝。

    • 一颗5.7mm T5 梅花螺丝。

    • 一颗6.5mm T5 梅花螺丝。

    • 一颗3.8mm T5 梅花螺丝。

    Make sure you replace these screws exactly where they came from, same with the other speak.

    Dustin Steward - 回复

  12. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 13 中的图像 1,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 13 中的图像 2,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 13 中的图像 3,3
    • 在右扬声器线缆尾端提起扬声器,将其从机壳中拉出。

    When replacing with the new speaker, the new piece could have some blue strips on the cable. Remove them to let the adhesive do its job and attach the cable to the surroundings to avoid having it loose.

    Victor Alcantar - 回复

    I was wondering where I can buy a good replacement. Some users comply about the bad quality of sound after replacing the speakers. Can you suggest a link where to buy good replacement parts (possibly Italy / EU ) ?!

    Alberto Mennella - 回复

  13. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身, 左扬声器: 步骤 14 中的图像 1,2 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身, 左扬声器: 步骤 14 中的图像 2,2
    • 将撬棒头部插入连接器附近的左扬声器的线缆下,轻轻撬起,使其从主板上脱离。

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak - 回复

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina - 回复

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    lamajr - 回复

    I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - 回复

    I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

    When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?

    JangJaeHee - 回复

    Ugh. I agree with Barak; why is touching the speakers in these guides? On both the 13” and 15” you can easily replace the batteries WITHOUT even vaguely touching the batteries…

    davelarose - 回复

    Parts of this guide are used for other guides, such as replacing the top case. But also, the speakers can be damaged by solvents, so it’s not a bad idea if the method you’re using has the possibility of getting solvent on them. It’s easy enough to just remove the screws and move the speakers out of the way without disconnecting them.

    maccentric -

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — solvent will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable.

    That said, unplugged is not necessary, merely removing the speakers (Step 16).

    John Hawkinson - 回复

  14. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 15 中的图像 1,1
    • 将固定左扬声器的几颗螺丝拆下:

    • 一颗 5.7 mm T5 Torx螺丝

    • 一颗 6.5 mm T5 Torx螺丝

    • 一颗 3.8 mm T5 Torx螺丝

    Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

    Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?

    greg steigleder - 回复

    Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.

    Patrick G -

    My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?

    robertverheij - 回复

    Hi,

    If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?

    Horst Droege -

    Where can I replace these screws?

    One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    kate Taverna - 回复

    Once again.

    NO NEED NO NEED NO NEED

    davelarose - 回复

  15. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 16 中的图像 1,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 16 中的图像 2,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 16 中的图像 3,3
    • 向上提起左扬声器,绕着电池取出,以便将其从上盖中取出。

    • 小心不要将扬声器电缆挂在侧面的螺丝孔柱上

    There’s a typo in this section.

    “Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out AROUND the battery to remove it from the upper case.”

    Patrick G - 回复

    If I have a case assembly with battery and trackpad, the above instructions say to skip steps 18 - 44. So, how do the battery and trackpad disconnect otherwise since I need everything else to reassemble. Am I missing something?

    Brett Levine - 回复

    after step 9 what??? i cannot see the next steps….

    kotakidisoklp - 回复

    Réparation faite en moins de 5 minutes chrono (j’avais lu et relu le tuto et l’avais répété autant de fois “dans ma tête” le temps de la réception du haut parleur endommagé). Réparation très facile, faite en moins de 10 minutes tout compris. Vraiment bravo et merci !

    Eric - 回复

    Why does this step exist?

    Unneeded…

    davelarose - 回复

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — it will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable. (See comment on Step 14).

    John Hawkinson - 回复

  16. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身, 上部机身组件(C壳): 步骤 17 中的图像 1,1
    • 如果你购买的配件包括了触控板、电池或者其他部件。则无需把每一个部件都拆下来,后续过程中的有些步骤可以跳过。

    • 在开始维修之前,建议通读本篇指南所有步骤,以确定哪些部件要被转移到新的C壳上

    I wish this then said, “skip steps X, Y, and Z” for us newbies.

    Melissa Wallentine - 回复

  17. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身, 触摸板线缆: 步骤 18 中的图像 1,2 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身, 触摸板线缆: 步骤 18 中的图像 2,2
    • 使用撬棒扁平的一端从逻辑板插座上撬起触摸板排线插头。

    The trackpad cable can also be of a different type where you pull the tape on it

    Rogier van der Heide - 回复

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you might instead see a trackpad connector that has a loose tape on it. If the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery then it is possible to skip this step. It is not necessary to pull the tape. Note that I had an A1502 MacBook Pro laptop and was replacing its A1493 battery, it had the trackpad cable going “under” the battery, so I skipped this step and was still able to successfully replace the battery.

    Luke Schoen - 回复

  18. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 19 中的图像 1,2 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 19 中的图像 2,2
    • 从电池固定胶带上拉起触摸板线缆。

    • 注意不要损坏线缆。如果它不是很容易被拉起来,用iOpener、热枪或者吹风机加热一下来软化粘合剂,并重试。

    On the picture above, it looks like, that the CIF cable for the keyboard, located right to the trackpad cable, should also be separated, but this is not necessary. You can leave it attached.

    anmeldung - 回复

    What helped release the cable was to place the body of the spudger under the cable and rotate it upward as I gently pulled it down to release the cable from the adhesive. It may not have been necessary, but it did help.

    Todd S. Jones - 回复

    I did this after reading your comment and it worked incredibly well!

    N DesRochers -

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - 回复

    For people having keyboard or trackpad issues:

    If you followed the disassembly photos you may have lifted the the tap on the ZIF connector in Step 18 image. Note the lifted “tape” below the thumb. This may release the ZIF Connector and cause keyboard issues. Make sure the black retaining bar is in the down position on the ZIF Connector.

    Also, check the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.

    Donald MacTavish - 回复

  19. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 20 中的图像 1,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 20 中的图像 2,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 20 中的图像 3,3
    • 如果有必要的话,剥下所有粘在触摸板线缆上的胶带。

    • 使用撬棒末端来将ZIF连接器上的滑杆解锁。

    Overall, I really enjoyed this project and it was a complete success but this step is the one spot I came up short. I forgot to flip the retaining tab back down when I reassembled and I got a totally unresponsive keyboard and trackpad before I opened it back up and realized I had forgotten this tiny but crucial step.

    nathan taylor - 回复

    I also forgot to flip the ZIF connector. Thankfully my trackpad worked after.

    Make sure to flip the ZIF connector before putting the trackpad cable back, too.

    ibash - 回复

    I did not remove this retaining clip for fear of not getting it plugged in again then just carefully folded it back to clear battery instal

    Peter Stoll - 回复

    This was the most challenging part of the installation. Putting this tab back, it's so fragile and difficult to put back. I thought it was going to get damaged but it worked.

    Gaetano Daidone - 回复

    Like Peter, I just folded it back a bit and had care to keep it out of the way. I think it is much better than the risk involved with taking it out.

    All in all it found it a bit less difficult than I expected - As with all the work I have done on different Apple products: Slow and careful work and following the instructions - including all the comments - seems to be the best advice.

    Adam Griggs - 回复

    I have a semi responsive trackpad and an unrecognized keyboard. Any suggestions?

    Daniel Lynn - 回复

    CHECK the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.

    Donald MacTavish -

    Daniel- remove and put back again the cable on the ZIF connector, making sure it is pushed all the way in before closing the retainer clip. May have a partially reinserted cable.

    drrobins - 回复

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - 回复

    This was the most difficult part for me.In frustration, I thought I had a bad cable so I bought two new ones and still was not successful.So I skipped the whole thing and bought an external wireless keyboard which I have been using till now.Recently, my LCD screen cracked and I am about to replace it. So, I now have another opportunity to open my laptop and try fixing this step again.This time I will read users comments before attempting another go.Please if anyone have additional useful tips for this step, kindly post a comment.I should be fixing my laptop in 2 weeks.Thanks!

    Ernest Kanu - 回复

    One thing to know about the tape that you have to remove is that it has "arms” that wrap around the cable just beyond the connector. If you bend the cable toward you you can see these. Remove/bend them so that they are pointing ‘north” and then pull the sticker.

    Michael Gorman - 回复

    The “flip up” tab was hard to see for me but once my 7yo confirmed it was up, I slowly moved the cable into the slot using my fingers (to avoid bending/breaking anything, thanks to comments I read), staying perpendicular. Once it was clearly in, I confirmed it was fully seated with a toothpick (a gentle tool for delicate parts). If worried, take zoomed in pictures straight from above, that way you will know what it should look like when reassembling.

    Marc - 回复

    After completing this repair and breaking the zif socket while trying to make sure this cable was re-attached properly. I believe the battery replacement can be done without doing this step. I would just carefully bend the cable out of the way when it came time to prying the portion of the battery out that sits below this cable.[br]

    [br]

    I'm taking my Macbook into Apple to see if they'll replace the touchpad and cable now since I don't feel like messing with this anymore. My screwup may just push me into buying a new M2 Macbook Air... I'm thinking subconsciously my brain tricked me into sabotaging this repair attempt so that I'd just get a new computer, lol.

    Greg Burkhardt - 回复

  20. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 21 中的图像 1,2 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 21 中的图像 2,2
    • 径直从触摸板控制板上的ZIF插座中拔出触摸板线缆。

    With all due respect, step # 19 and 20 pics shows the ZIF socket on the trackpad board, not the Mac logic board, I think...

    See step #17 which seems to be correct. There is an inconsistency in the guide.

    Just to be sure...

    Bart Van Dessel - 回复

    This was the most difficult step for me. It was hard to locate the retaining tab on the ZIF connector and the trackpad cable had some adhesive on the bottom of it and it was difficult to remove from the socket. Be patient….

    Gary Bain - 回复

    I skipped this two steps (19&20) , just bent the flat fable when taking the battery out.

    Aleš Smokvina - 回复

    This does look the most frightening part of the process, that connector looks really flimsy. Is it ok to just bend it back and leave it connected as suggested?

    Jack Sukerman - 回复

    This is the only step I skipped, as Gary Bain mentioned above there was adhesive which made it difficult to remove, and it’s probably the only step worth skipping.

    John Davis - 回复

    Can you buy replacements for this trackpad control board? They dont seem to come with new trackpads.

    Rachel MacLeod - 回复

    The ZIF retaining tab is a tiny black plastic bar. Pull the trackpad cable HORIZONTALLY out of the socket.

    Richard Johnson - 回复

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - 回复

    Unfortunately, i didn’t notice that there was a retaining tab, so i damaged my ZIF Connector. I ordered a new one from amazon. I followed the procedure and did it in the “correct” way. Anyway trackpad and keyboard won’t work. Can you help me?

    Andrea - 回复

    I removed that cable and not sure that I put it back properly. The trackpad and keyboard are not working. I might need to order a new trackpad cable and try the process with the new, Can anyone help?

    Thank you

    Faliere Dieujuste - 回复

    I broke the tiny plastic clamp on the ZIF socket and that, to my understanding, is why the ribbon cable is not connecting properly (so neither keypad nor keyboard are connected). I wonder if I can buy a replacement somewhere for that clamp or the socket as a whole.

    Ghassen -

    Hi Ghassen, I too just broke the plastic clamp on the ZIF socket. What did you do to repair it? I’m pulling my hair out looking for a solution!

    David O'Brien -

    "straight out" in this case is away from you and horizontal, not straight up! I tugged on the cable a bit harder than I'd like to admit before realizing my mistake, although no damage seems to have occurred.

    jheiss - 回复

    Thank you for all the comments on the direction to pull this cable. Pull horizontally toward the battery. It slips out of the connector then you can pull it vertically to free. Mine had a little bit of sticky on the cable that held it to the battery.

    Steve - 回复

    Removing this cable took a lot more effort than I thought it should. I removed it horizontally away from the front of the laptop. I was certain to pop up the plastic retaining clip to remove, then push it down to reinstall. For whatever reason I feel like I’m not getting the cable back in all the way. After reassembly my touchpad and keyboard do not work. I’m wondering if I damaged the cable or the small board with the zif socket…

    Greg Burkhardt - 回复

  21. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 22 中的图像 1,1
    • 移除一颗将电池板与顶壳固定的3.7mm T5 梅花螺丝。

    If lost where could I find a replacement for this screw?

    Justin - 回复

    Yes, where could I find a replacement for this screw?

    Ryan Borchert - 回复

    Before continuing, draw around the outside of the existing battery with a pencil to make a template ready for when installing the new battery. It means when you get there, the new battery can be installed perfectly in place and you will not have space problems when trying to reinstall the speakers during reassembly.

    Dan - 回复

    when installing new battery it is better to start with this step and secure the battery control board first with the screw. This is needed to align the battery plug with the jack on the mother board, then glue the rest of the battery back.

    Igor Kapitanker - 回复

    FYI this was a T4 on my system

    anonymous 5375 - 回复

    When aligning the placement of the battery, on my second attempt, I used a sim card removal pin (a paper clip would suffice) to align the battery board hole with the screw hole underneath. Unfortunately on my first attempt I inadvertently stripped the threads a little. Luckily there was just enough threads to hold

    Charles Meitin - 回复

  22. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身, 加热iOpener: 步骤 23 中的图像 1,2 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身, 加热iOpener: 步骤 23 中的图像 2,2
    • 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。

    • 将iOpener放在微波炉中央 。

    • 对于旋转式微波炉:确保盘子可以自由旋转。如果转盘卡住了,iOpener可能会过热并燃烧

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 回复

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 回复

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 回复

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 回复

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 回复

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - 回复

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - 回复

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - 回复

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - 回复

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - 回复

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - 回复

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 回复

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - 回复

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - 回复

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - 回复

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - 回复

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - 回复

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - 回复

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - 回复

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - 回复

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - 回复

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - 回复

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - 回复

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - 回复

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - 回复

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - 回复

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - 回复

  23. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 24 中的图像 1,1
    • 加热iOpener三十秒

    • 在整个维修过程中,如果iOpener 冷却了,在微波炉中每次重新加热额外的三十秒。

    • 注意在维修过程中不要过度加热iOpener,过热可能会导致iOpener爆炸。

    • 如果iOpener过热膨胀,千万不要触碰iOpener。

    • 如果iOpener中间部分依然烫的没法碰,请等待冷却后再使用,加热好的iOpener 应该可以保持热度十分钟

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 回复

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 回复

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 回复

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 回复

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 回复

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 回复

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - 回复

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - 回复

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - 回复

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - 回复

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - 回复

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - 回复

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 回复

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - 回复

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - 回复

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - 回复

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - 回复

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl - 回复

  24. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 25 中的图像 1,1
    • 把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来,捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个以避免碰到中心热的部分。

    • iOpener会非常烫,所以拿着它的时候千万要小心。必要的时候可以使用烤箱手套。

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 回复

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - 回复

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - 回复

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - 回复

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - 回复

  25. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身, 加热iOpener的替代方案: 步骤 26 中的图像 1,2 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身, 加热iOpener的替代方案: 步骤 26 中的图像 2,2
    • 如果你没有微波炉,请按照此步骤在沸水中加热iOpener。

    • 在锅或平底锅里装满足够的水来完全淹没iOpener。

    • 把水加热到沸腾。关火。

    • 将iOpener放入热水中2-3分钟。确保iOpener完全浸入水中。

    • 用钳子从热水中提取加热的iOpener。

    • 用毛巾彻底擦干iOpener。

    • iOpener会很燙,所以拿取時請小心的從iOpener的邊邊拿

    • 你的iOpener已准备好使用!如果你需要重新加热iOpener,请将水加热到沸点,关火,并将iOpener放入水中2-3分钟。

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com - 回复

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia - 回复

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia - 回复

  26. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身, 电池: 步骤 27 中的图像 1,1
    • 由 iFixit电池替换组件 提供的液体胶水去除剂可以影响MacBook Pro屏幕的抗反射图层。

    • 为了保护你的屏幕,在你操作的时候在屏幕金额键盘放置一块铝箔片。

    I was able to remove the batteries using the plastic ifixit card only, it requires you to work it back and forth but it can be done. However, for a few bucks I would suggest the heating pad. I was able to reuse my batteries (although not suggested).

    Dustin Steward - 回复

    This should have been Step 1.

    Richard Johnson - 回复

    I too managed with just heat (iOpener that had come with parts for another repair) and the plastic card. I decided to try with just heat because of concern about putting any fluid into the computer case. (There was a comment by someone about damaging a trackpad). Using the card and heat, I found it helped to start by inserting and advancing a pointed end of the card rather than an entire long-edge of the card. Then advancing the card, while also moving it in a back-and-forth motion, to essentially “cut through” the glue strips. One other point, that helped for later positioning the new battery so the the speakers fit without issue, was that with a sharp pencil I traced the outer edge of the old battery on the inside of the case. This left a nice aid for worry-free placement of the new battery.

    Jonathan Bradley - 回复

    I used heat from a hair dryer to detach the adhesive. The bottom of the touch pad seems to be made from plastic so I didn’t want to use any hard solvents (acetone) to risk permanent damage to the track pad.

    Olivier Biot - 回复

    I also used the hair drier and the cheap plastic spackling 2” knife and old credit card. No solvents. Once you detach the section of the battery you can use piece of the blue plastic that covers adhesive strips of on the new battery to prevent detached sections from sticking back .

    Igor Kapitanker - 回复

  27. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 28 中的图像 1,2 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 28 中的图像 2,2
    • 如果您有一个带有液体去胶剂的iFixit电池套装,那么现在你就准备好了。

    • 或者,如果您使用热的iOpener方法,请跳过以下三个步骤。

    • iFixit脱胶剂含丙酮,可能会刺激眼睛和皮肤。

    • 处理和涂抹去污剂时,请戴上防护眼镜。 (您的套件中包含防护眼镜)

    • 禁止不戴护目镜,只戴隐形眼镜。

    • 套件中还包含防护手套。 如果您担心皮肤刺激,请戴上手套。

    I used “isopropyl alcohol” instead of “acetone” and it dissolved the glue under the battery.

    I already had some “isopropyl alcohol” that I bought to make my own hand sanitizer.

    Luke Schoen - 回复

    FYI, the adhesive remover is definitely acetone which will dissolve the gloves

    Michael Gorman - 回复

  28. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 29 中的图像 1,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 29 中的图像 2,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 29 中的图像 3,3
    • 打开你的胶水溶解液的盖子。

    • 在你剪开口子之前,请拧松或去除瓶盖。

    • 这样做的目的是确保瓶内外的压力一致。如果你跳过这个步骤,也许在剪开尖端的那一刻,胶水溶解液会喷出来。

    • 使用剪刀剪去胶水溶解液涂抹头的尖端。

    • 尽量靠近尖端剪,这样你在接下来的过程中更好操作。

    • 在继续之前拧开和盖紧瓶盖。

    just acetone (manicure remover) is ok.

    Jimmy Jeong - 回复

    New kits come with different bottle than picutred. all clear with clear notch to cut on tip.

    Josh Hornby - 回复

  29. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 30 中的图像 1,1
    • 在最右边的电池单元的边缘均匀涂抹少量的胶水去除剂。

    • 你不需要用特别多。这瓶胶水溶解液的量够用两个电脑的所有电池。

    • 等待2-3分钟,胶水溶解液渗透电池底部胶水。

    I just poured some “isopropyl alcohol” into a bowl, then cut a piece of plastic (since it bends easily) from some packaging, and then dipped the end of it in the bowl to coat it in the alcohol, then repeated the following process progressively every minute or so: I’d push it under each corner of the battery to apply the alcohol, then wait a while for it to penetrate the glue, and then used a combination of a “plastic card” (i.e. old credit card) the “spludger” tool to slowly lift the battery from the glue.

    Important note: I was removing an old battery that wouldn’t hold charge anymore, so I didn’t care about squishing it a bit with the '“spludger” (as long as I didn’t puncture it and cause battery fluid to leak!)

    Luke Schoen - 回复

    Before continuing, draw around the outside of the existing battery with a pencil to make a template ready for when installing the new battery. It means when you get there, the new battery can be installed perfectly in place and you will not have space problems when trying to reinstall the speakers during reassembly. Things get snug and this tip helped me a lot.

    Dan - 回复

    My battery was so swollen that it only required a bit of heat and card action to take it out.

    Marc - 回复

  30. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 31 中的图像 1,2 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 31 中的图像 2,2
    • 如果您没有粘合胶去除剂,您将使用热的热的iOpener 来加温和软化将电池固定到上壳上的一部分粘合剂,然后在那时仔细撬动。

    • 使用热的iOpener来覆盖一半的最右边的电池

    • 大约一分钟后,重新加热iOpener并将其移动到覆盖最右侧电池的另一半。

    I just aimed a hairdryer at the relevant part of the battery for a short while and felt it getting warmer (not the other circuitry), and made sure it was an appropriate distance so it wouldn’t exceed 100 degrees celsius (which is dangerous).

    Luke Schoen - 回复

  31. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 32 中的图像 1,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 32 中的图像 2,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 32 中的图像 3,3
    • 在最右侧的电池和上盖之间推一个塑料卡,去切断两者之间的粘合剂。

    • 在此过程中,请注意不要用工具损坏任何电池。 损坏的锂离子电池可能会泄漏危险化学品和/或着火。 只能使用塑料撬工具

    • 当使用热的iOpener方法时,如果遇到显着的撬动阻力,请停止并使用iOpener重新加热您正在处理的部分。

    I suggest taping the batteries together on the top, this will keep them intact while you work the card back and forth. If you are very careful during these steps you can reuse your batter but make sure to inspect it Very well. If there is any damage whatsoever do not run the risk of leaking fluid to the rest of your computer.

    Dustin Steward - 回复

    Could I suggest that the plastic card be filed at the business edge like a chisel to make it easier to slide under the battery breaking the glue seal. I did it to mine and made it just that bit easier to break that glue seal. I use the heat method. Otherwise it worked well.

    Ray Miller - 回复

    With the help of some acetone a little syringe and a credit card, I found the whole battery removal part to be easier than I expected.

    Adam Griggs - 回复

    I did not have a iFixIt kit (they were sold out). I used a hot/cold therapy pack instead of an iOpener, but found I didn’t need it. What worked really well for me was to gently work an old credit card in underneath, then slide a long wedge-shaped spudger between the credit card and battery cell and pry gently up. Not to much to avoid bending the cell, but working back and forth between wedging up with the spudger and shifting the credit card further in worked really well.

    Rob Gorbet - 回复

  32. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 33 中的图像 1,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 33 中的图像 2,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 33 中的图像 3,3
    • 在相邻的电池单元中重复操作。

    • 将少量的液体粘合剂去除剂置于电池单元下方,并等待2-3分钟以使其渗透并软化粘合剂。

    • 或者,如果需要,可以使用iOpener重新加热此部分。

    • 将电池单元和上盖之间的塑料卡推进去一英寸,然后缓慢地将电池撬开以分离所有粘合剂。

  33. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 34 中的图像 1,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 34 中的图像 2,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 34 中的图像 3,3
    • 将塑料卡就放在电池下方,以防止粘合剂重新粘黏。

    • 如果使用iOpener,重新加热并放置在最左边的电池上。

    • 再次,将iOpener放在每个位置大约一分钟,再加热,以加热最左边的每个电池单元。

  34. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 35 中的图像 1,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 35 中的图像 2,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 35 中的图像 3,3
    • 重复先前操作来分离最两边的电池。

    • 请记住将少量的胶水去除剂涂在每个电池下,然后等待2-3分钟才能渗透并软化粘合剂。

    • 使用第二张塑料卡将两个最左侧的电池与上壳分开。

    The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane - 回复

  35. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 36 中的图像 1,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 36 中的图像 2,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 36 中的图像 3,3
    • 继续重复撬动步骤。

    • 将塑料卡插入第二个最左侧的电池和上盖之间切割粘合两个的粘合剂,并将电池从外壳上撬开。

    Again, The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane - 回复

  36. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 37 中的图像 1,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 37 中的图像 2,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 37 中的图像 3,3
    • 将第二张卡牌留在两个左侧电池之间的角落。

    • 如果使用iOpener,请重新加热并将其应用于中央电池。

    • 像以前一样,将iOpener放在每个位置大约一分钟,再加热,以加热每半个中心位置。

    • 在以下步骤中,您可以使用第三张卡或右侧的卡片。 右角粘合剂应该是干燥/冷却的,使得在需要时可以容易地再次拉出电池。

  37. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 38 中的图像 1,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 38 中的图像 2,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 38 中的图像 3,3
    • 如果使用液体粘合剂去除剂,在每个最外侧的两个中间再加几滴去除剂。

    • 将MacBook Pro的一边抬起几英寸,可以帮助粘合剂去除剂以正确的方向在电池下流动。 您可以使用坚固的书或泡沫块来垫高MacBook Pro的一侧。

    • 在继续之前,让胶水去除剂渗透2-3分钟。

    • 轻轻折叠最右边的电池,将塑料卡正确插入中央电池包下。

    • 将卡片推入其长度的一半左右,来切割电池和外壳之间的粘合剂。

    • 避免碰到触摸板,将卡对准粘合剂所在的地方-逻辑板。

    • 将卡放在适当位置上,以防止粘合剂重新密封。

    I think this part killed my trackpad…. I think it should be mentioned that adhesive remover can get into the trackpad cover plate.

    Gary Yuen - 回复

    I did not bend my batteries nearly this much, it allowed me to reuse them but it takes patiences to get them free.

    Dustin Steward - 回复

    Take a look at the trackpad replacement guide to get a sense of where the adhesive is:

    MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏 2015早期 触摸板更换

    ibash - 回复

    To prevent re-adhering, I placed a bit of Scotch tape over the original adhesive locations.

    Richard Doss - 回复

  38. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 39 中的图像 1,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 39 中的图像 2,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 39 中的图像 3,3
    • 在剩下的电池包上采取相同的操作。

    • 提起外侧的电池,将塑料卡插入左侧中央电池单元的一半左右,避免碰到触控板。

  39. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 40 中的图像 1,2 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 40 中的图像 2,2
    • 返回到右侧中间中心电池下的塑料卡片上,然后扭动它将整个电池与上壳分开。

    • 到现在,您已经将电池和顶壳之间的粘合剂切割完了,电池应该很容易的被取出来了。

    • 如果还不是那么容易的取出来,你需要重新加热iOpener并将其放在卡住的地方,再继续小心的使用塑料卡片切割粘合剂。

    I found this to be more difficult than the edge sections. I had to reapply a few times the adhesive removal from both sides of the center sections before I was able to pry the battery. Take time and use the adhesive removal several times.

    Maxim Bulat - 回复

    I dipped the edge of a stiff credit card (actually health card lol) into 91% isopropyl alcohol and slid that in from the sides..keep pressure while the alcohol works it’s way thru the adhesive..just be careful when it finally lets go..

    Adam - 回复

    Thanks to Adam’s suggestion about sharpening the plastic card and using alcohol plus the heat gun I easily got to this point. Then I re attached the speakers before dry fitting the new battery.

    Peter Stoll - 回复

    While you have the battery off, consider removing the T3 screws that hold the metal plate over the trackpad. That makes it much easier (and less dangerous for the trackpad) to clean the adhesive off. And while you have that off, consider removing the twelve T5 screws holding in the trackpad and cleaning it up a bit around the edges, and the edges of the case. Because that’s a slot, stuff gets in there. I was surprised how dirty mine was. Trackpad instructions here: MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏 2015早期 触摸板更换

    Rob Gorbet - 回复

    At the last step reassembly there was a 1-2 mm gap between the cover and the body. Upon inspection I found that one of the new battery’s plastic bar had to be gently nudged under the aluminum « post ». At the ends of the plastic U shape, look for tiny flat protrusions, right next to the rubber bumpers, those should go under a recess near the screw posts (one can be seen on the left of the thumb on the image above).

    Marc - 回复

  40. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 41 中的图像 1,2 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 41 中的图像 2,2
    • 移除电池。

    • 在安装新的电池前,从MacBook Pro壳子中移除所有残留的粘合剂。

    • 幸运的话,你可以用你的手慢慢地将粘合剂撕下来。

    • 否则,用一点粘合剂去除剂将每个粘合剂部分浸泡2-3分钟,然后用撬片或其他工具将其刮掉。 这可能需要相当多的工作,所以要耐心。

    • 擦拭残留的粘合剂去除剂,花一些时间让MacBook Pro风干。

    • iFixit套件中的更换电池已预先安装了粘合剂。 在剥离覆盖胶粘剂的胶片之前,仔细确保电池的对位,然后将每个电池牢固地按入到位。如果更换电池上有原电池上不存在的胶片、衬垫,请最后再将它们移除。

    • 校正 您新安装的电池: 充电至100%, 并保持充电状态至少2小时。拔掉电源并使用电池供电。当您看到低电量警告时,保存您的工作,继续使用您的笔记本直到低电量自动睡眠。静置5小时后一次将电量充至100%。

    • 如果您在安装新电池后发现任何不寻常的行为或问题,可能需要重置MacBook Pro的SMC。

    Remember that the speakers fit on either side of the battery. When placing the new battery, make sure to leave enough space for them.

    Cesario Uy - 回复

    I wish they had put your comment in the guide itself. It took me a while to realize that the speaker won’t go in because the battery was off a bit towards the side of the computer. Fortunately the adhesive was not as strong as the original.

    Yulun Hsieh -

    good point, if you tuck the battery cell you can also firm up the speakers and then install the cell, just a tiny bit tricky since you have to tuck it under the speaker a bit.

    Faslane -

    Does anyone meet the problem that there is a slightly misalignment for the new battery?

    Lei Xu - 回复

    Yes. I did encounter the same issue. Need to stretch a little to force it in.

    ramakrishnr -

    Yes, I had to adjust tiny guys at both ends when I was putting back the speakers.

    yon2maru -

    Why do we need to replace the battery for this? Can’t we put back the original one in place after we replaced the trackpad? If sohow to glue the original battery back?

    benjamin parpillon - 回复

    There’s a fairly high risk of damage to the battery—they are not designed to be serviced or removed. Reinstalling the old battery may put your laptop at risk, and can even be a fire hazard.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    yeah DEFINITELY do NOT put the old battery in. Chances are it’s damaged and all bent up and you definitely do not want this back in a working machine. Spend the money and get a new replacement or you’ll regret it.

    Faslane -

    Merci beaucoup ! Très bien expliqué parfait !

    Valerie - 回复

    My batteries were swollen pushing out on the keyboard and back of the case. The battery replacement was in my mind rather simple given the instructions. It was about taking time and logically laying removed items with screws. The battery removal was a little more completed…my approach was to put the opened case with batteries only exposed to the direct sunlight for 45 or so minutes. So taking time with plastic tools provided starting in the corner of the outermost batteries and working toward the center two was key. I put waxed paper between the batteries and the case to prevent reattachment. Removal from start to finish was about 20 minutes working slowly feeling and looking for the release of adhesive. I was concerned about putting liquid directly on the metal parts so I used acetone on a rag to clean remaining adhesive. Alignment of the batteries and circuit board was key to the installation. “Dry fit the batteries and board to see how they will go in. Then begin in the middle outward.

    Kevin - 回复

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard -

    I found mineral turpentine on a piece of cloth removed the remaining glue without making too much of a mess.

    Ray Miller - 回复

    My new battery now shows zero cycles but the age is still the original 4.5 years.

    My battery lasted to 730 cycles 4.5 years and 80% health, it was time to change it out as the battery was not lasting as long as I would like.

    Does resetting the SMC also reset the computer battery age?

    Ray Miller - 回复

    It doesn't reset the ago, no.

    Faslane -

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard - 回复

    I had bulging both on the top and bottom of the case. It all went away with the new batteries and everything fit perfectly just like brand new when I was all done. So the case bulging was not permanent.

    jklarr -

    Friendly warning: Make sure the adhesive remover evaporates before connecting the new battery!

    I successfully changed the battery in my 2015 MacBook Pro, everything powered on just fine, then I put it in my neoprene sleeve. The next morning I noticed some of the adhesive remover on my keyboard. I wiped it off, powered it on and then it suddenly shut down. After a couple more tries I could no longer get it to power on. It was dead. Took it to a repair shop and they concluded it was most likely liquid damage to the logic board. Total bummer. I have sense learned that the adhesive remover itself is not conductive, but it can dissolve something like glue, and then become conductive. The adhesive remover also cools as it evaporates which attracts moisture. So please make sure your adhesive remover evaporates completely before connecting your new battery.

    Jonathan Flower - 回复

    I did the SMC reset but still nothing. Is not charging at all.

    nasho007 - 回复

    Tips for alignment:

    1. Do not remove the plastic covering the adhesive and then try to align the battery. Leave the plastic on and remove one at a time after the battery is aligned.

    2. Use masking tape to hold the battery cells together while aligning, otherwise they flop around a lot.

    3. Put your speakers next to the battery cells (before removing plastic on adhesive) to ensure you’re leaving enough room.

    4. Make sure your battery connector is well aligned too.

    ibash - 回复

    I’d recommend once new battery is placed and NOT stuck down, to connect the power and charger to make sure it charges up. I got a bad “new” battery and had to do a second removal and replace….ugh.

    Faslane - 回复

    This was a great tip. I just put the replacement battery in slightly and connected it to the battery connector, then opened the laptop (with the laptop upside down since I didn’t bother putting the bottom cover back on) and plugged in the power cable, then waited for it to load until it showed the battery power level, and then checked that when I disconnected the power cable that the laptop still stayed on using the new battery

    Luke Schoen -

    I actually also, installed the speakers back before adhering new battery down, it was a pretty tight fit. Also one speaker on each side has a smaller screw than the other 2 so be aware to get them back in the correct spot. I also had one of the long screws that wouldn’t fit in the spot so I switched them, so you might be careful of that too…not sure why but it wouldn’t thread in….weird.

    Faslane - 回复

    In fact I think each of the three speaker screws are of a different length.

    Adam Griggs -

    one more thing, if you install the speakers first (totally do-able) you’ll take off the adhesive on the outer most cell on each side first and you’ll approach it from the top and tuck it under the very edge of speaker…after that’s done press down when happy with alignment.

    Faslane - 回复

    In conjuction with the owner of the MacBook, we decided not to stick the new battery down, specially because it is used 99% of the time on a stand and connected to a monitor. Will repost if this seems to give any issue.

    Adam Griggs - 回复

    Thanks for this excellent kit and the detailed instruction guide!

    Michael Lorenz - 回复

    Once the battery is removed and you want to glue the new one, make sure that you leave enough room for the speakers. Honestly the battery change was far easier that what I thought, I think everyone is capable of doing it. Great tutorial by the way, thank you for the work !

    Thomas Alliot - 回复

    I am still very puzzled by the instructions to remove the speakers! Is it necessary to remove them both or not? Sorry if I’m being a bit dense!

    iwm4 - 回复

    I can’t say for sure it’s absolutely necessary, but I’m looking inside one right now and, from a practical standpoint, the speakers would make it extremely difficult to work around. It would be much harder to get the glue dissolver under the ends of the battery and to pry underneath them to lift them. Removing the speakers is rather simple, so just do it.

    Mike Rosenberg -

    Hi. After a couple of months installed the new battery is loose, seems like is “unglued”… Does anybody have an idea what could I use to replace the glue?

    Thanks!

    Gustavo Lo Valvo - 回复

    Hi there, I was so surprised at how delicate everything seemed, never attempted anything like it before! My old battery would hold any charge at all and had swollen so much it warped the casing a little. After replacing the battery my mac turns on but still doesn’t hold any charge. I reset the SMC but it hasn’t worked, not sure what to do next, any advise?

    Emma Read - 回复

    To make it clear: Really check if battery plug and socket fit before you feel comfortable to press down the cells on the glue. I had to tear the connector pretty much on one side.

    Daniel Brehm - 回复

    I would recommend doing the next step where you take the cover off of the trackpad before you install the battery. I did and found a bunch of the adhesive remover (there is nearly zero space between the cover plate and touchpad, meaning the remover/acetone easily seeps in there, but air does not get in so the acetone remains. Soft compressed air also works well to dry the remover. Ok, to be cautious, probably steps 37-40. Being able to inspect/get some air in there may save you.

    Michael Gorman - 回复

    I just finished the battery replacement. I did not have to remove either of the speakers. I tried using the iOpener (and a hair dryer) but it just wasn’t hot enough. It’s like the glue was super-cured from the heat of the computer. I put a layer of foil and a layer of paper towel before I tried using the acetone. I found that just a tiny amount did the trick after a couple of minutes to soak in. As i pried up the edge I added a couple more drops and was able to free the old battery. The replacement fit perfectly. The battery is calibrating now.

    Will - 回复

    Replaced the battery but now every time I power her on, she immediately shuts off again. What would be the cause of this?

    Alfie Akers - 回复

    Eine super Anleitung. Damit war der Akkutausch problemlos möglich und hat 70 Minuten gedauert (bei langsamer/sorgfältiger Arbeit).

    Um Beschädigungen durch den Klebstoffentferner zu vermeiden, habe ich 3 alte Plastik- Scheckkarten langsam und vorsichtig unter die alten Akkus geschoben und so die Klebeverbindung gelöst (1 x von links, 1 x von rechts und 1 x mittig). Dann ließ sich das gesamte Paket herausziehen. Das alte Akkupaket habe ich wie ein rohes Ei behandelt, da es sehr prall aufgebläht und somit absolut brandgefährlich war. Es bereitet mir noch immer ein mulmiges Gefühl, eine solche Brandbombe auf meinem Schreibtisch gehabt zu haben.

    Der Ersatzakku passte perfekt ins Gehäuse, nachdem ich alle Klebestreifen-Reste entfernt hatte.

    Mit dieser Anleitung kann nahezu jeder den Austausch vornehmen - allerdings: genügend Zeit und Ruhe einplanen! Alle entfernten Schrauben unbedingt genau positioniert lagern. Dann geht’s im Zusammenbau wirklich flott.

    Mein MacBook Pro läuft nun wieder problemlos.

    Johannes Martin - 回复

    MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015)

    Keyboard and trackpad were unresponsive after new batter install. As instructed in step 19 I reset both connections. Still no battery or keyboard. Ordered new trackpad cable. Still no working keyboard /trackpad. In an attempt to unseat reseat everything I then did the keyboard cable but no go. Second time I did keyboard the ZIF socket retainer popped loose. Tried to seat cable as carefully as possible and then covered with electrical tape.

    I should mention that keyboard backlight, power button function properly. Will re-run tests, resets, etc.

    Is there any way to fix the keyboard ZIF socket and/or remediate this?

    kevin - 回复

    I replaced the battery and it seemed to run good. Now every time I restart it shows the apple logo and then goes black again. If I push the power button for the whole boot up process it starts to work but powers down soon after. The same is the case when I reinstall the old battery and when I start up only with the charger and no battery. Any thoughts?

    johanneshasselbach - 回复

    In the few battery replacements I’ve done, in addition to making sure the battery connector is aligned properly the single screw needs to be aligned to start with. I’ve found that the rubber feet tend to be too high (the 2 in the middle of the computer). I believe it’s more the long tail on the underside of the rubber foot that prevents the bottom case from seating properly. As well the plastic around the other 2 feet (near the front of the computer) need to be flexed somewhat to help with bottom case alignment and seating…

    themacdoctor - 回复

    I skipped the steps using the liquid glue solver, and therefore also left out the removal of additional parts, so made it quite “simple” at the end. I was going through steps 1-7, 17&18, 21, and then from 26 onwards to the end. For 26, I used the sun to heat up the old batteries, after it it was quite easy to remove them with a creditcard. Thanks for all the details!

    TTony5 - 回复

    Hat 3 Tage funktioniert 🙄 Nun Startet er nicht mehr

    habe gemäß der Anleitung den Akku gewechselt, hat alles super easy geklappt.

    Werkzeug und Akku bei ifixit bestellt.

    Das MacBook hat danach 3 Tage funktioniert, hat geladen, entladen alles Prima.

    Dann lief er bis der Akku Leer war und seit dem startet das Gerät nicht mehr.

    Auch ein SMC oder NVRAM Reset helfen nicht.

    Das Ladesymbol am Ladekabel leuchtet, aber auch nach einer Nacht immernoch nicht grün.

    Wenn ich die besagten Tastenkombinationen drücke, ist beim SMC Reset zu erkennen das die Ladeleuchte danach für ca. 2 Sekunden grün wird.

    Hat jemand eine Idee ?

    Grillke - 回复

    This was a piece of cake, thanks to all the comments, and to my 7yo who taped and color-coded of all the screws on a sheet! I used very little heat probably because the batteries were very swollen. I used the acetone (sold with the kit) only to remove the glue.

    Marc - 回复

    I used alcohol prep pad with 70% alcohol to remove old battery adhesive from the laptop.

    Igor Kapitanker - 回复

    If you need to transfer the rubber spacers to the plastic frame of the new battery (because you got a cheap one that didn't come with any), take note that they come in 2 slightly different heights.

    The shorter ones go towards the front edge, the higher ones to the center of the MacBook.

    You can remove them by pushing them through from the bottom of the old frame with your screwdriver. Getting them into the new battery frame requires some fiddling. Try to push them in from the top while trying to get the wide part through the hole with a toothpick.

    Markus - 回复

  41. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身, 触摸板: 步骤 42 中的图像 1,1
    • 移除十颗将触摸板保护壳与顶壳固定的2.8mm T3螺丝。

    These small T3 screws are in tight, same with the following step to remove the trackpad itself. Make sure you use a quality set of tools. Trust me, the cheap sets on amazon will break or strip the screw. If that happens you’ll have to use an easy out, or drill the hole.

    Dustin Steward - 回复

    You’re right Dustin. fyi grainger has a fine t3 screwdriver for$7

    Bill Boomhower - 回复

    The screws in these two steps have thread locker on them. Blue (removable) Loctite, I believe. You’ll hear a “snap” when you first turn them and that’s the Loctite breaking; following that they’re just like normal screws. You might consider putting a little bit of Blue Loctite on them before putting them back in. Be careful not to put too much though: don’t drip it onto the screw; instead, just squeeze the Loctite tube gently until a drop is sitting on the edge of the tube, then touch the tip of the screw to the drop and let capillary action suck a tiny bit of Loctite into the threads.

    Oddly, there were only 8 of these 10 T3 screws in my laptop…

    Rob Gorbet - 回复

  42. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 43 中的图像 1,1
    • 移走触摸板外壳。

  43. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 44 中的图像 1,1
    • 移走12颗将触摸板与顶壳固定的2.4mm T5螺丝。

    To continue from here to replace keyboard [in an early 2015, MacBook Pro retina 13”, remove I/O board following the iFixit guide for the I/O board replacement. A Youtube video (here, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eX2phuS4...) shows how to remove the keyboard, pulling some rivets as well. Importantly, the video shows how to remove the remaining rivets.

    I bought the replacement keyboard on eBay. Prior, I had purchased a “Pardsey” branded keyboard from Amazon that came with a backlight. Also keyboard screws recommended. The “Pardsey” keyboard, said to work with 2015s did not fit. I used their backlight and screws. Other helpful videos are on Youtube as well.

    To my surprise, as per the Youtube video, excellent screw holes for the tiny keyboard screws are there once the rivets are removed.

    Thomas Sturgill - 回复

    I got up to that stage but three of the screw’s head got mushed up and I couldn’t remove them… I am thinking of drilling through them. Did anyone face that problem?

    Also where can I can buy these 2.4 mm T5 screws?

    Benjamin Parpillon - 回复

    I’m facing the same problem

    I’m confused don’t know what to do now. Screws are hard and won’t turn. Please help!

    Raphael Nii Laate Lartey -

    For anyone else that runs into this problem, you can check out our guide to removing stripped screws for some more options.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I used a drill and an easy out. Could get them out. Anyone knows where I could find the screws?

    Benjamin Parpillon - 回复

  44. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 45 中的图像 1,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 45 中的图像 2,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 45 中的图像 3,3
    • 将触摸板从顶壳中移走。

    Screws set with Locktite, may require a little more torque to remove.

    Michael Dittl - 回复

  45. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身, MagSafe DC-in 板: 步骤 46 中的图像 1,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身, MagSafe DC-in 板: 步骤 46 中的图像 2,3 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身, MagSafe DC-in 板: 步骤 46 中的图像 3,3
    • 抓住这黑色塑料签,翻起显示器排线接头并将其直拉出其在主板上的插槽。

    I managed to just move the cable without having to disconnect whilst replacing my MagSafe connector

    lewismacqueen - 回复

    Pull straight OUT not up.

    Mmm ttt - 回复

  46. 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 47 中的图像 1,2 交换MacBook Pro13'' Retina显示器 2015早期版本的上部机身: 步骤 47 中的图像 2,2
    • 将DC-in板接头直拉出其在主板上的插槽。

    das Kabel ist oberhalbt ab Weg zur Ladeeinheit angeklebt. Vorsichtig lösen hilft ;)

    connector is glued to a silver covering on the way to the charchingunit.

    doaskwhy - 回复