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Repair information for KitchenAid dishwashers.

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KitchenAid Dishwasher will not fill

KitchenAide Dishwasher will not fill with water. It makes noise like it’s trying to work…I’ve done the following, to no avail:

  • Checked that lines are not clogged
  • verified water pressure to inlet valve
  • replaced float switch
  • replaced water inlet valve

Then I began to wonder if I had a drain problem, that may cause my dishwasher to keep from filling, so I verified that the drain line was not obstructed and I checked resistance on my drain motor (33 Ohms, which I believe is fine). The dishwasher was not full of water, only a bit in the line…

Not sure what to do next…?

Help and thanks!

Update (09/09/2020)

KDTM354DSS3

Thanks!

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@Zachary Cole

Have you checked that there is power going to the water inlet valve solenoid to operate it when it needs to fill?

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Have not - I will check, thanks.

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@jayeff

I found voltage to the inlet valve solenoid was mostly 6.5VDC, and a brief 15VDC, while running rinse mode. Does this seem right? I wasn't able to measure the current, which I suppose is also important for a solenoid...?

Thanks.

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@Zachary Cole

It doesn't seem correct. Check what is printed on the valve itself.

Looking at the part found on this websitefor your model, the manufacturer's part number is WPW10327249.

It's not really clear on the part I linked but on this website (same part number) the specifications for the valve are clearer and it seems to be 120V (presumably AC) Click on the 4th image to the right and then on the click to rotate arrow in the image and stop when bronze side of solenoid comes around and then zoom in. It shows 120V but maybe I'm wrong, my eyes aren't what they used to be.

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@jayeff nice sleuthing. Much appreciated! I verified 120V AC, so it looks like a control board issue... they sure don't make'em like they used to...

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@Zachary Cole

Have you tried to reset the dishwasher, just in case it has glitched somehow? Worth a try and nothing lost if it doesn't work except a few minutes of time ;-)

If still no good hopefully it may be something simple like a faulty connection etc.

Check the wire colour at the solenoid and then find the same colour at the control board connector (maybe there aren't too many the same colour).

First prove continuity from the control board to the solenoid and if OK then trace the circuit back on the board to find where the power comes from for the solenoid.

I realize that you measured a small DC voltage at the solenoid, but this could be a spurious measurement as there may be feedback paths given that one wire connected to the solenoid is connected to the neutral mains (Line 2?) side of the power supply as the solenoid is powered by AC, and this wire connects to a lot of other parts in the circuit e.g. heater, circulation pump etc and through them back to the control board.

The solenoid operate wire is from the control board. The other wire is the return path i.e. the neutral mains wire. Not sure of the terminology where you are but here for AC power it is Active, Neutral and Earth and I think where you may be it is L1, L2 and Earth (if you have an Earth at the outlet as well) and the L2 wire is the return current path for the power. L1 being the active supply voltage wire

On the control board it may be a relay or a solid state switch (Triac) I don't know which, that the power is switched through to operate the solenoid but still worth a look.

Good luck and thanks for the feedback about the voltage.

Cheers

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@jayeff more good suggestions!

Attempted reset but could not find any two button combination that did the trick.

Confirmed continuity, but tracing the circuit back to power is beyond my ability... really :)

Did not find a thermal fuse to test.

Did not seen any obviously burnt circuit parts e.g. blown caps.

Buying a replacement control board.

Thanks again!

Cheers.

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