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Kenmore Elite gas dryer not heating

I have a Kenmore Elite gas dryer. I can give the model number upon request, but it flags the message as spam if I insert it in this question.

The dryer turns on, the drum spins, the blower for the dust vent works, but the heat does not work. I have replaced the thermal fuse and the igniter, but the igniter still does not ignite. Any ideas for what to check / replace next?

Thanks.

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Okay, the model number is 110 followed by 74992300.

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I replaced fuse. The burner glows for5 seconds then goes out. grrrr what's up with that?!

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@benzacct, I'm no professional, but it sounds like your gas valve solenoid(s) are probably shot. If you get a glow, electricity is flowing through your system and your ignitor is lighting up, but no gas is getting through. That would be my guess.

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I have a Kenmore he5t front load gas dryer I changed the belt the other day and no it's not getting hot enough I can hear the flame come on but when the Cycles done the clothes are still really damp and all I did was pull the drum out to get access to clean the inside of the dryer out with an air hose and reassembled it

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I have a Kenmore Elite He3 gas dryer that doesn't get very hot and it takes about 2 hours to dry a load of clothes. I replaced the thermal fuse but it still does the same thing.

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Okay, I found the problem, after replacing the thermal fuse, the igniter, and the high limit thermostat, and testing the flame sensor and solenoids. All those were fine. The problem was the heater relay. Wish I had checked that first, but I didn't find any reference anywhere to that being a potential problem. It's the easiest thing to replace and only cost $8. Well at least my dryer is working again!

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Hi. I'm also having the same problem. I just replaced the entire controller board and now it isn't getting as hot...any suggestions?

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Cause 1

Gas Valve Solenoid

Gas dryers have two or more gas valve solenoid coils. The gas valve solenoids open the gas valve ports to allow gas to flow into the burner assembly. If a gas valve solenoid fails, the dryer won’t heat. To determine if one or more of the gas valve solenoids has failed, check the igniter. If the igniter glows and goes out but does not ignite the gas, the gas valve solenoid is defective. If one or more of the gas valve coils are defective, I recommend that you replace them as a set.

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Hi, Mayer. Thanks for the reply.

My understanding is that if the solenoid fails, the igniter would still glow. Is this not always the case? My igniter does nothing.

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All the parts I've tested seem to be operational, but still no heat. The igniter does not glow. Any other ideas?

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The ignitor can also lose continuity. When this happens, the electricity no longer completes a circuit through the ignitor, and it no longer produces heat.

The gas valve may have failed.

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I found the problem - the heater relay. Thanks for the suggestions, mayer.

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What if it heats for a minute or two and then goes cold?

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I had a similar issue. I replaced the gas valve that checked bad and thermal fuse as well. I reassembled the dryer and found the igniter would light and cut out after a few seconds. Long story short all components checked ok. Except I noticed a squeal when I started the dryer & the belt was fine. The motor centrifugal switch would not kick out due to a drum roller binding. I found of a bunch of hair caught behind the . So make sure that the drum rollers are spinning freely. A telltale sign is the drum will have rubber roller residue on the drum track or the dryer belt is glazed or breaks often. Needless to say I am going to shave every female's head in my household.

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I forgot to mention that the dryer was working fine until the belt broke once I replace the belt and clean the dryer out with air hose now it's not drying like it was it's getting hot but like I mentioned when the cycle is done the clothes are still really damp I even pulled the bottom cover off again to make sure there was Flame

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For my dryer it turned out to be the thermal fuse and the high limit thermostat (temperature regulator). For the novice I cannot stress this enough… DO NOT JUMP THE FUSE except for testing. The purpose of this thermal fuse is to melt (on the inside) if the high limit thermostat sticks in the closed position. If the thermostat stick in the open position the heat will never turn on. If the thermostat sticks in the closed position the heat will never turn off. Therein lies the danger. the thermostat is supposed to heat the fryer to around 150 deg F… the fuse will blow at about 190 deg F, thereby saving your clothes, laundry room and house. Many places sell these as a set. My set cost $14. Please do not operate the dryer with this fuse jumped. This $10 part, when bypassed, could cost thousands of dollars and even someone’s life. I just wanted to put this warning out there. The manuals that I read didn’t mention it.

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Sure would be nice if the paragraph was in full instead of being cutout. No telling what infor is missing. Not helpful. Frustrating. All of the answers are cut short like that.

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When you first turn on the dryer it will ignite (light) and you can hear the propane and the timer counts down. But it doesn't keep heating (lighting) up. The repairman said the ignitor was going, therefore it was only working sporadically, then he said it wasn't the ignitor, it was the timer. He didnt use a tester to check the timer. He never even took the back off the dryer. I was under the understanding that if the timer button worked (moved) that it WASN'T the timer. Can you please give me your input? I don't want to get nickel and dimed by a repairman. Thank you.

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If you hear the gas being ignited (starting to burn) then my understanding is that the ignitor has done its job. If the gas turns off after that point, something else is probably wrong. However, if the timer was bad, I would think it would either work or not. Probably something else is failing but in any case it sure sounds like your repairman has no idea what he's doing. If you haven't done so already, I would suggest posting your own question on this site (but not as a response to my question) with the specifics of your problem and model number/year. Or, find another repairman/handyman.

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Thank you Mike.

Also, I'm sorry about where I posted my question. New to this and I have more questions. I will look to see where I need to post my questions in the appropriate place. Appreciate it very much. Thank you.

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Mike Thorne 将永远感激不已
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