No power or display
I'm not getting any power from the unit. No display either. It's just dead. Any suggestions?
If too much current passes through the microwave circuitry, the line fuse will blow. If the line fuse blows, the microwave won’t start. To determine if the line fuse is at fault, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the fuse does not have continuity, replace it. In addition, you should investigate and resolve the problem that caused the fuse to blow. If you don’t resolve the underlying issue, the new fuse will blow too. (Caution: The microwave oven can store thousands of volts of electricity in its high voltage capacitor, even after the microwave oven has been unplugged. Due to the potential for electric shock, it is extremely dangerous to replace the electronic components in a microwave. Only a licensed technician should replace the line fuse.)
Main Control Board
The main control board might be defective. However, this is rarely the case. Control boards are often misdiagnosed—check all of the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly,replace the main control board. (Caution: The microwave oven can store thousands of volts of electricity in its high voltage capacitor, even after the microwave oven has been unplugged. Due to the potential for electric shock, it is extremely dangerous to replace the electronic components in a microwave. Only a licensed technician should replace the main control board.)
The thermal fuse cuts off power to the microwave if the microwave overheats. To determine if the thermal fuse has blown, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the fuse does not have continuity, replace it. The thermal fuse cannot be reset—if the fuse is blown, it must be replaced. (Caution: The microwave oven can store thousands of volts of electricity in its high voltage capacitor, even after the microwave oven has been unplugged. Due to the potential for electric shock, it is extremely dangerous to replace the electronic components in a microwave. Only a licensed technician should replace the thermal fuse.)
I have a similar issue with my GE Profile Microwave (Model #PVM9215SKSS). There is no power at all. I have checked two ceramic fuses and one Thermal fuse. Those are good. Does it mean that my main control board is faulty? How to make sure if the Main Control Board is faulty?
Won't come on GE
My two year old Model PVM9179EKES stopped cold -- no light, no display, no anything. A technician tested the fuse and it is fine as well as the "thermostat fuse". There is power to the microwave tested at the inside connection of the cord. This model is a convection microwave. Only second time using convection, I was preheating to the maximum of 425. It was getting extremely hot -- and had reached about 400 when it cut off. It's been five days. Nothing will reset. The technician did as mentioned above. He feels that probably the control board got too hot and is "fried" and must be replaced. Of course I can buy a new oven for less than that. It's worth noting that we discovered two pages of paper schematics tucked behind the control board which had opened up and were completely blocking the exhaust vent above the control panel. That's probably it. In any case, thank you Lowe's for having a new GE slate model that is normally $529 on sale for $259. Cheaper than repairing the old one.
I read this post and others talking about thermal fuses, etc. I actually have two of the same model OTR GE microwaves (built house with in-law kitchen). One stopped working so my plan was to start swapping parts till I could isolate the part causing the problem. After changing one fuse, I had the microwave plugged in and while the fuse didn't fix anything, as I was moving wires around the microwave powered up. I moved more wires and it stopped. This began a process of looking for a loose wire or connector. (boring details skipped). It turned out the problem was caused by one of four very small wires that come from the large bundle/harness to the left of the control board. These four wires leave the bundle and go up and over the cooking area and go right over a fairly sharp seam where two pieces of metal are joined. I guess with four years of daily use the vibrations caused one of those wires to become exposed and grounded to the metal. Insulated all four wires with electical tape and good to go.
I had that problem with my GE microwave that we'd had for quite a while. As it turned out it was something as simple as the power/energy saver button on the front being turned on. Clicked it and it came right on. I guess that's what it's designed for.
I am a licensed electronic technician with 30+ years experience. I recently had a GE over the range microwave fail..no power. It is plugged into a dedicated outlet. Model JVM3160FS3SS.
I opened the unit to discover a blown main fuse. This is a 20 Amp fast-blow standard glass fuse. A search for a replacement fuse at the GE parts website was startling!
All parts for this microwave are priced out of this world. The fuse costs 50+ dollars for one piece, whereas general electronic suppliers sell these in 5-packs for under 10 dollars. GE won’t even sell you the magnetron tube, but third party sellers will for 260+ dollars. Heck, the replacement fan motor will cost you 340+ dollars.
The lesson here: This microwave is not economically repairable. A new unit with 1 year warranty sells for $199.
I have the same microwave with a somewhat different issue: The microwave seem to have no power, even though I tested the outlet and it has power and is fine. I never went so far as to uninstall the microwave, though, because I didn't need to. As soon as I pressed the power saver button on the front of the microwave, it's now working fine. I don't even know what the power saver button actually does, but I'll find out.
All the answers here are wrong especially when the microwave is new I don’t think these people answering are understanding the question but I do because I had the same problem!!
It's not the actual microwave itself that is the problem here people it's the outlet we’re plugging it into. You can Google it addressing the outlet not the microwave because my GFCI (the reset button on your kitchen outlet) kept popping out when I would plug it in realizing it’s not the actual microwave mine went on when I finally found the right outlet. However if you live in an apartment and it is two bedroom and up you have an outlet that can handle it, so go find it!! ... HOWEVER, if you have a one bedroom or smaller you will not have an outlet for that microwave and you must have a "Licensed Electrician" come over and switch out the outlet from a 15 amp to 20 amp it will take 5 minutes but don't have anyone else or yourself being unlicensed try doing it to save a few dollars because whoever it is they will die from being fried from the inside out aka ELECTROCUTED!!! It's inevitable THE PERSON MUST BE A "LICENSED ELECTRICIAN" PERIOD !
Hope this answer is meant tongue in cheek. You can't just change an outlet from 15 to 20 amp. You have to change the wiring back to the circuit breaker panel from 14 gauge to 12 gauge.
I agree. And 110-volt electricity won't fry anyone-- unless they're soaking wet or standing in a puddle of water. I Used to Know an old electrician that wouldn't even use a volt tester on 110 volt. He'd use his fingers to check for current.
I am a an electrician and I will say absolutely without a shadow of a doubt know that 110 v outlet is enough to kill a person. Be safe always work with power off. If you are unsure call an expert they will be happy to help. When it comes to your microwave remember these units have a capacitor that stores electric voltage even of the microwave is unplugged it can still have power in the capacitor safety is key test everything before touching it.
Banging on the side by the control panel also works on my jvm3160rf5ss. I’m confused cause the ge repair video calls a part a thermal fuse. GE lists no such part but calls it a thermostat. I took that part out and it tested bad, but then I read while ordering said part, it’s a thermostat and will test bad as a fuse. I put the part back in and presto the microwave worked. That lasted three days. Soo, researching this again I read about smacking it on the side. It’s working again , for now???
I could not help noticing no one has addressed the safety micro switches that may still be used in this modern age (fixed a lot of them in my time ) . ‘Micro’ is a misnomer , they are large enough to spot easily . They are in the door latch assembly . Could be as many as 4 involved .
A smack to the side of an oven causing it to work points to a problem in the safety function of the door . I would use a meter to confirm function of a switch , taking note of the contacts being N.O. (normal open ) or N.C. making the switch operate to measure N.O. contacts can be awkward …DO NOT do this plugged in… Now , the door switch mechanism can get worn and nothing you can do apart from building up worn cams or such will work . That case is not to be bothered with , send to recycle .
However new(ish) units may have a bad switch but strange readings may require you need to disconnect at least one lead from a suspect switch . Getting some switches out can be a mechanical puzzle HEAVY FORCE should NOT be needed . LOW resistance is absolutely required for a reading . If a contact shows anything above a small fraction of an ohm it should go in the bin . There can be a lot of current flowing and needs to have a low impediment to that . More modern units maybe not and can get by with slight resistance BUT normally should be as close to zero as can be . On older units I have seen blowing main fuse (usually a ceramic 15 amp,confirm blown with meter) caused by bad switches only .
PLAY SAFE …let unit sit for a few minutes after unplug before grabbing things , that large cap CAN be lethal . Pay no heed to Eansor’s coment about 110volt being nothing , YES you can use a finger to detect live wire BUT there are cases of people’s muscles getting locked and you CANNOT let go . If you have heavy calloused fingers not much current would flow and get away with it . NOT the case if you grab 2000 volt charged cap .
Just some thoughts … pardon the long-winded reply .
Hugh, Very good advice, especially on the topic of safety. I'd like to remind the fixers out there that GE parts prices are sky high beyond resonability, so usually, just replace the unit. It will be less expensive.
I have Model JVM1795SK2SS it stopped while in use heating food. There are no control panel light, no display, and no sound at all from the microwave oven. It is dead. The unit is 3 years old, purchased brand new over the stove type with all the sensors and fancy functions. The glass fuses are good. Thermal fuse and thermostat good. There is intermittent power at the power cord and fuses. Door switches all test good.
I am leaning toward a bad control panel, power supply or defective GFI switch. It stopped suddenly and no blown fuse. Maybe GFI comment is right for this newer microwave oven. Can anyone help me with this problem...
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display doesn't light up brand new
由 jewell671 完成的
display doesn't light up
由 jewell671 完成的
I have ge microwave model dvm7195sf1ss all of a sudden the microwave has no power there’s even no power on fan or light under microwave. Then bang on side with hand where control panel is can most of time get it to power back on but then sometimes when you go to use microwave it does it again power shuts off
由 Glenn kreutzer 完成的
GE microwave PVM9005DJ2BB. NO power to anything. Fuse is good, replaced thermostat. Still nothing. Please help???
由 aplusmhs 完成的
We have a GE microwave PVM9005DJ2BB installed 2 years ago. It stopped working for no apparent reason. Discovered that the electrical cable located at the top hinge of the door has a major design flaw and the door hinge has been slowly cutting this large cable until it now been sliced through. This was confirmed by a local repairman. Hoping GE will acknowledge this built-in defect and make good on repairs vs. replacement. Naturally, the warranty has expired and customer service reps are hanging on this fact alone, not on the presence of a potentially dangerous severed electrical cable!
April 5 2019 by docwellman
由 Andrew Wellman 完成的