Being 1.8V higher than the requirement might or might not pose a problem. It depends on the design characteristics of the router, whether the components are able to work with a 15% higher voltage supply. It might place extra stress on the components that may shorten their lifespan. If the router doesn't seem to get any hotter than normal it ''may'' be alright.
I'm assuming that the 13.8V adapter supplies the same type of voltage as the faulty adapter. i.e. AC or DC - you didn't say,
With regards to the faulty adapter overheating, what is its' voltage output? If it is not as specified (especially when it has heated up) then open it up and check it out. In a lot of cases I have found that it is one of the capacitors inside that has gone faulty (domed or leaking).
The simple way to open an adapter which has been plastic welded and not screwed closed is to get a paint scraper (usually with a 1"-1.5" blade) and placing the blade in the weld "seam" give it a sharp tap with a hammer. This usually will crack the case open along the seam. Of course if you tap it too hard you will smash the case. After the repair you can just tape the case shut again.
=== Update (12/17/2017) ===
Hi @captainsnowball ,
+
A 12V 0.1A adapter wouldn't work as the requirements for the router are 12V''' 0.5A.'''
+
Also where does the 15A figure come from?
+
The adapter plugs into an outlet that handles 15A but its' design ensures that it doesn't have that much current flowing through it (unless it developed a s/c or something)
+
Aiden, It's not working anyway so open it up, that's how you find out about things. You may be surprised at the wiring gauge used.
Being 1.8V higher than the requirement might or might not pose a problem. It depends on the design characteristics of the router, whether the components are able to work with a 15% higher voltage supply. It might place extra stress on the components that may shorten their lifespan. If the router doesn't seem to get any hotter than normal it ''may'' be alright.
I'm assuming that the 13.8V adapter supplies the same type of voltage as the faulty adapter. i.e. AC or DC - you didn't say,
With regards to the faulty adapter overheating, what is its' voltage output? If it is not as specified (especially when it has heated up) then open it up and check it out. In a lot of cases I have found that it is one of the capacitors inside that has gone faulty (domed or leaking).
The simple way to open an adapter which has been plastic welded and not screwed closed is to get a paint scraper (usually with a 1"-1.5" blade) and placing the blade in the weld "seam" give it a sharp tap with a hammer. This usually will crack the case open along the seam. Of course if you tap it too hard you will smash the case. After the repair you can just tape the case shut again.
+
+
=== Update (12/17/2017) ===
+
+
Hi @captainsnowball ,
+
A 12V 0.1A adapter wouldn't work as the requirements for the router are 12V''' 0.5A.'''
+
Also where does the 15A figure come from?
+
The adapter plugs into an outlet that handles 15A but its' design ensures that it doesn't have that much current flowing through it (unless it developed a s/c or something)
Hi @captainsnowball ,
Being 1.8V higher than the requirement might or might not pose a problem. It depends on the design characteristics of the router, whether the components are able to work with a 15% higher voltage supply. It might place extra stress on the components that may shorten their lifespan. If the router doesn't seem to get any hotter than normal it ''may'' be alright.
I'm assuming that the 13.8V adapter supplies the same type of voltage as the faulty adapter. i.e. AC or DC - you didn't say,
With regards to the faulty adapter overheating, what is its' voltage output? If it is not as specified (especially when it has heated up) then open it up and check it out. In a lot of cases I have found that it is one of the capacitors inside that has gone faulty (domed or leaking).
The simple way to open an adapter which has been plastic welded and not screwed closed is to get a paint scraper (usually with a 1"-1.5" blade) and placing the blade in the weld "seam" give it a sharp tap with a hammer. This usually will crack the case open along the seam. Of course if you tap it too hard you will smash the case. After the repair you can just tape the case shut again.