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Wholesale & Retail | Repair & Sales | Mac, PC,...
CHECK US OUT AT http://www.boardrepair.info/ and on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/microsoldering....
Email ranysaba@me.com and mention "iFixit" for free return shipping.
Call/text/message/Whasapp/Viber on +961 33 43 961
I've been in the business of wholesaling iDevices, Macs, PCs, Android phones and tablets for 4 years now. Wholesaling is 90% talk and 10% actual work, which left me with much free time.
I used to source the repairs to a couple of repair centers, with complete lack of control over quality and lead time. I decided to invest my free time in bettering my services and building a repair-based clientele.
So I enrolled in iFixit's first ever trial pro program and jumped onto the repair wagon, learning the basics of general repair and parts replacement (screen, battery, etc.) using proper techniques and best-practices.
After a while, swapping parts on iDevices had no more secrets for me (or my better half, who decided and succeeded in learning how to repair) anymore, and we wanted to differentiate our business by offering board-level repair.
After months of trial and error, frustration and failures, all of a sudden, I was able to un-solder and re-solder tiny components without making a mess.
Then I fixed my first back-light filter on an iPad Mini. Then I revived a dead iPhone 4S.
It has been a long and bumpy ride, but our deep dive into micro repair paid off!
We now offer comprehensive board repair solutions for all devices. But we specialize in iPhones, iPads, and specially Macs.
We have acquired expertise in repairing Mac boards after liquid damage, using the best (and most expensive!) cleaning equipment, tools, and chemicals. Our tested methods ensure that corrosion is stopped and removed even from underneath the chips. This way traces and components are shielded from future deterioration.
We also repair other issues like dead, not charging, not working off of battery and/or off of DC charger; no Wi-Fi, no USB, etc.
We also service Mac boards that do not turn on or run properly following DYI or other repair. We fix pry damage and replace damaged/missing components.
Other than Macs, we offer many board-level repair services for iPhones, iPads, and Android devices:
General micro-soldering | replacing connectors, capacitors, resistors, back-light filters, etc.
Micro-race repair | repairing trace damage, long-screw damage, BSOD, etc.
Micro-BGA repair | replacing micro-chips commonly known as U2, Tristar, Touch IC, etc.
Data recovery from dead or liquid damaged devices - specially iPhones & iPads.
Specifically, we offer solutions for:
-- No display / no backlight after screen replacement or other repair for iPad 2, 3, 4, iPad Mini, iPad Air, iPhone 5, 5C, 5S, 6, 6S.
-- iPhone dead, not turning on, or not charging after battery or screen replacement or other repair.
-- iPhone / iPad dead or not charging from no apparent reason, or after using cheap knock-off chargers, car chargers, or battery banks.
-- No touch on iPhone 5S, 5C, iPhone 6, iPhone 6 Plus. Usually following a drop.
-- Repair broken component during attempted repair / pry damage.
- All our solutions are "no fix - no fee" meaning if we do not succeed in repairing your device or retrieving your data, we will not charge you any amount of money.
- We offer free assessment and diagnostic.
- We carry parts in stock (and also sell them wholesale) for the most recurrent repairs so that clients don't have to wait days for parts to be ordered.
- - - Last but not least, we back all our repairs with a 180-days warranty -parts & labor.
Feel free to contact us for a quote, info or advice at ranysaba@me.com, or call/text/Viber/Whatsapp at +961 33 43 961
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You'd better. The original bezel is glued. You can find 3mm fine/double-sided (black) tape on Amazon. I use it when I replace the bezel because they fit perfectly under the bezel. I use for all sorts of repairs on iPhones, Samsungs, etc. Such as this [one|http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GIS...]
The power button is glued on the right side to a piece of foam. I found it easier to push the power button in without completely removing it (let it hinge on the foam/rubber), then slide the flat cable out with a pair of tweezers. Re-assembly should be easier and quicker this way.
The top/right standoff 2.7mm screw us made from aluminum. It is not equivalent to the remaining two 2.7mm standoffs. It should be kept apart and put back in its exact place.
If you happen to mix it with the other 2 screws, it is easy to differentiate: since it is made from aluminum, it will not stick to the tip of the magnetized screwdriver or the magnetized mat.
It is a lot easier to insert the flat ribbon in its socket before placing the fan back in place. BUT DO NOT YET FLIP BACK the retaining flap, until you have seated and screwed the fan. This way in case you pull on the fan by mistake, the flat ribbon is free to come out, otherwise you may tear it.
When re-assembling the motherboard, attach all 6 screws but do not completely tighten yet.
First make sure the rubber gasket is sitting properly, that the 7th screw hole (from Step 18) is properly aligned, and the Airport wire is sitting properly and also not caught under the heat sink.
Once everything is well aligned, start tightening the screws while watching out for the alignment. I found it useful to keep an eye on screw-hole from Step 18 as a reference.
There a small square black plastic "gasket" next to the 2 copper contact points. Be sure it is back in place before putting back the screws holding the earpiece speaker in place.