the bongo guy

I have a HTC Droid Eris that I bought from Anchorage, Alaska. As I recieved it, I plugged it in (to charge) and left it...

So, i opened my iPod mini to have a look at my clickwheel due to an issue it has been having. anyway, i killed the...

First of all, i would like to start off with a ‘mini’ description of my product. I own a iPod Mini 2nd Gen 4GB (with the...

Laptops of this era are a hit-or-miss when it comes to CPU upgradability, so if they have a socketed CPU, it often only allows a narrow degree of upgrade, mainly due to their heatsinks, which can’t be upgraded. However, the general rule of thumb in my books are: -ALL MacBooks don’t have easily upgradable CPUs, as they are soldered -Most windows laptops (circa 2004-2011) that that screens bigger that 13” have socketed chips, and can be upgraded - Most windows netbooks (those really tiny laptops) have soldered chips, and can’t be upgraded - Most windows laptops (2013-present) have soldered CPUs, besides a few Desktop Replacement Machines (aka huge laptops with desktop CPUs)

Is the SIM card inside active? if it is, that’s a Logic Board problem, not a battery problem. If the SIM isn’t active, then go get it activated at the carrier it’s on.

There might be a slight kink in the frame there that you can’t see, happens also when you crack a iPhone and the glass applies pressure to the LCD. Have you dropped it? if not, then take it to a Apple Store if you have AppleCare+ as this is a defect.

Yep, the battery is for both the LTE and WiFi only models. Go save that iPad!

Your battery could need replacing. How long has it been off the charger? I’d try wireless charging before you try a hairdryer. Worse case scenario, you can buy a battery replacement kit here: iPhone X Battery Comes with everything you could need to fix it the right way.

First, as Dan said, check your DC in jack, and then try another MagSafe. If both don’t work, it’s probably something with your logic board

Have you had the A/C system looked at? Could be the culprit, even tho it’s kinda weird that when the A/C is on full blast the car overheats. May I suggest the following: - change your oil (make sure to use the right kind, it’s often in the owner’s manual.) - getting your radiator lines looked at, as they are probably old and worn given the car’s age.

I’m not experienced in TV set repair, but the inbuilt power supply might have a dead cap (capacitor), or even the mainboard or control board (assuming that’s what the name for the board with the buttons is) could be shorted and therefore dead. Myself, I would worry about the old school electrolytic capacitors that to the bulk of the power switching. those would blow (and i mean blow and stink) first. Just my thoughts.

I’m not familiar with UEFI sound-related codes, but with my (albeit limited) UEFI experience dead/faulty RAM or CPU. You’d have to take it apart to see if the RAM and CPU are Socketed/Removable Here is how to remove them if they are removable: if its a AMD CPU, it should have a lever or something like it or just pull out (DON’T YANK IT OUT UNLESS YOU DON’T SEE A LEVER)if its a Intel CPU, a lever should exist but there is almost always no drop-in socket. As for RAM, there are 2 tabs on either side, pull them away from the stick of RAM and the ram will pop up 45 degrees (ish) if done correctly. AT THIS POINT (lol y caps) the ram can be removed and replaced. PRO TIP: while you are reinstalling the cooler after checking the CPU, Use Noctua NT-H1 Thermal Paste here -> https://noctua.at/en/nt-h1-3-5g (my favorite thermal paste), that will improve performance. BEST OF LUCK MY GUY—Austin (i hate this quarantine bullshit)

It seems to me that these older 9.7 inch models (2016) are pieces of crap. I’ve never had one, but i can only assume a logic board or charging port issue. Since i have done various Android, iPhone, and iPad repairs, i would buy a iCloud locked variant that is otherwise IDENTICAL to the broken iPad. At this point i would start swapping parts and testing it out. Overall, i would just turn silent on and hope and pray it doesn’t vibrate. Best of luck, Austin

If you are referring to this, then yes, if not, then no. https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/...

No. No idea what you're talking about because even if it was connected it wouldn't physically fit. TV out would be your best friend.

the image one this step is broken, as i can’t see it

display data cable

Yes www.iflash.xyz has good stuff for these or u can just use a CF Card and it'll be Plug N Play…literally

i know this is a old comment, but u sheared off a resistor (i watch a youtuber, and the iPod will do…wierd things…if the resistor is sheared off of course) so u would need to replace the logic board

might’ve been the battery adhesive. u could find some on amazon or even ifixit (haven’t checked)

This process varies as there are two versions I know of, one like the one in the picture, and one with the battery in the back cover.

So that should help if you are scratching your head saying why they look different!