Hi! Perhaps this set will work: Precision Screw Extractor Set Otherwise you could use the “glue trick”. Do you have any pictures regarding the stripped screw?
Hi! Does the LED change for a second yellow? If yes, your system should have a re-ball.. A reflow can be tried too (way easier) but most of the time temporary..
Hi! I would return the PSU and ask for a new one. Be aware: it could also be the APU. But it did work after your faulty PSU replacement, so I would try another PSU first.
Hi Danny, This sounds like a broken ribbon cable (adapter). I bet the screen and motherboard are still good to go. This is most likely a broken ribbon adapter. Best thing to do is to return it and ask for a new one.
Hi Mark! You should be able to download it here: https://support.xbox.com/en-US/help/hardware-network/console/system-update-solution/offline-system-update The instructions for how to do it, can also be found there.
Hi Logan, I saw this once as I had one which has this issue too. I replaced the drive belt (replace this all the time actually), but at my case this was due the tray which was not seated properly. Could you check this? Perhaps you need to take it out, clean it and put it back in. Note: Some models have additional screws installed to hold the disk tray at place!
Hi! Which cables are you using? The regular AV cables? What you can do: Buy and try the composite cables. Perhaps this will work. Side-Note: It also could be your AV port which is damaged or something went wrong with the GPU.
Hi! Sounds like it’s searching for your bluetooth device instead the PS4. Did you removed it from the settings (bluetooth list) at your PC? This will come in handy, everything about how to do a (hard) reset for the Dualshock 4: https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-reset-ps4-controller-4174025
what is the capacitor telling? The value should be on the capacitor, or check the motherboard. Otherwise, please post a picture so I can take a look :). Thanks!
Yes, you can swap the parts for original parts :)! But it will be difficult to find a genuine motherboard.. but if you got one, you could swap that one too. There are a lot of different controller types (JDM-001, JDM-030, JDM-040 and more) so be sure you got the correct parts for the model you need.
Thanks! Good to hear that I was able to help you :)!
Yeah, looks like it’s not genuine at all! Unfortunately it’s hard to see if it’s genuine (outer shell).. Glad that you found out that the one from the seller is not genuine.
If all the parts are legit, It’s most certainly a genuine controller! But yes, it’s possible that it’s imported from another country. Which is also possible (but not very likely) that the shell isn’t genuine but all the parts are, this also explains why it feels slightly diferent. All the controllers I had are printed in English. I think your good to go. Perhaps the shell was damaged so they transfered all the parts to another shell.
There are a lot of different fakes at the market! Please look out for them. When you open up the controller, the battery tells most of the times the truth. Is it genuine or not? If you want to be 100% sure to get a real one, buy (new) from Gamestop, Target, best buy or Wallmart (just named some examples, there are more shops which sells genuine controllers). You can’t be 100% sure if you buy it at Ebay or Amazon (examples).
Depends on the model! It could be that it’s connected at the other side. And otherwise you need to post pictures as I can determine if it’s real or not.
Hi Chad!
That is possible yes. Strange noise could refer to the worm motor. Try to trade in the new disc drive and try again!
Hi! Yes it’s very easy to do. Most people should be able to fix this :).
Hi Chris,
what is the capacitor telling? The value should be on the capacitor, or check the motherboard. Otherwise, please post a picture so I can take a look :). Thanks!
My pleasure!
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Bitte shön!
Hi Ramos,
Yes, you can swap the parts for original parts :)! But it will be difficult to find a genuine motherboard.. but if you got one, you could swap that one too. There are a lot of different controller types (JDM-001, JDM-030, JDM-040 and more) so be sure you got the correct parts for the model you need.
Hi Shawn,
Thanks! Good to hear that I was able to help you :)!
Yeah, looks like it’s not genuine at all! Unfortunately it’s hard to see if it’s genuine (outer shell).. Glad that you found out that the one from the seller is not genuine.
Hi Jason,
If all the parts are legit, It’s most certainly a genuine controller! But yes, it’s possible that it’s imported from another country. Which is also possible (but not very likely) that the shell isn’t genuine but all the parts are, this also explains why it feels slightly diferent. All the controllers I had are printed in English. I think your good to go. Perhaps the shell was damaged so they transfered all the parts to another shell.
Hi John,
Yes this is different for some models :).
Hi Jimmy! Glad that I could help :)!
There are a lot of different fakes at the market! Please look out for them. When you open up the controller, the battery tells most of the times the truth. Is it genuine or not? If you want to be 100% sure to get a real one, buy (new) from Gamestop, Target, best buy or Wallmart (just named some examples, there are more shops which sells genuine controllers). You can’t be 100% sure if you buy it at Ebay or Amazon (examples).
Depends on the model! It could be that it’s connected at the other side. And otherwise you need to post pictures as I can determine if it’s real or not.
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