Hi John! The first time when you open up the ZIF connector, is more difficult then the 2nd time. But anyway, it should still be able to lock! The ribbon cable should not be loose, but should be locked inside the connector. Make sure it’s all in and lock it (sometimes it won’t lock easy, but don’t use too much preasure, it breaks easily!). And when it’s locked, it should hold the cable and it should not be loose at all. Are the ribbon cables identical to each other? Could you sent us some pictures of it?
Hi! Open up the controller and check the buttons. Perhaps some piece of plastic broke and is stuck under the rubber. Or the rubber is damaged, causing the stiff button. If everything looks fine (even the rubber, please test this one to be 100% sure). You need a new button flex board. But I think it has something to do with the rubber.
Orange flashing: Problem: If there was a mod installed then it is most likely due to a solder splash, solder bridge, or a broken trace. Fix: Search around to see if you can find a solder splash, solder bridge or cut trace. If you find either of the solder problems desolder them. —————————————— Why did you opened the console at first place? Anyway, also make sure everything is connected as it should and that it’s not overheating.
Hi! Didn’t had the PSP street at all. But so far as I know, the PSP E1000, E2000, E3000 and Go analog sticks are different from each other which won’t make it easy. I advise to open up the PSP Street and check if it looks identical.
Hi Tracie! Well, it could be multiple things at this point. (1) Is the Wii soft/hardware modded? Could be a faulty modchip. (2) The ribbon cable that enters the drive from the motherboard, could be faulty. It’s rare, but it happened me too that the ribbon cable was broken and needs to be replaced.
Hi Regan! Since there is no drive inside the all digital edition, I think it’s harddisk related. Could also be the fan. Do you hear the sound all the time long, or just in the beginning? Anyway, since you bought it a few months ago, you should have warranty on it. So I would bring it back for a new one.
Hi! Affraid that the power supply is broken, and it won’t work unless you fix the power supply or replace it with a know working power supply. I would not bridge it, I would test the easy things first before you go further.
Hi! First things first: When the red light is burning, press the power button and hold it. It will beep and turn on, keep your finger on the power button all way long, then it beeps again (video reset), still hold the power button, it will beep and it will turn off. When the red light is burning again take your finger from the power button. Then press the button again, hold your finger on it, it will beep and turn on again, still hold your finger on the button, it will beep again (video reset), still hold the power button, now it will beep twice, release power button and you should enter the safe mode! Why do you want to enter safe mode? Due an error code or something? Anyway, you could also swap the harddrive and see if you can enter safe mode then. This should not be related to your broken HDMI port.
There are a lot of different fakes at the market! Please look out for them. When you open up the controller, the battery tells most of the times the truth. Is it genuine or not? If you want to be 100% sure to get a real one, buy (new) from Gamestop, Target, best buy or Wallmart (just named some examples, there are more shops which sells genuine controllers). You can’t be 100% sure if you buy it at Ebay or Amazon (examples).
Depends on the model! It could be that it’s connected at the other side. And otherwise you need to post pictures as I can determine if it’s real or not.
When you opened it up and the battery is as the original and the USB/LED board looks like the original one (with text in gold instead of white), you’re good to go. Those are genuine parts.
When it’s charging the lightbar should blink orange all the time long. When it’s not blinking orange it’s not charging or done charging. Are you still able to turn the controller on? Anyway, you should have warranty on it, so you could return it. Looks like the battery is bad.
Hi! I prefer the IPS. This because it’s easier to fit (in a pre-cut case) and your batteries will last longer. You can also increase and decrease the brightness of the backlight.
Hi Jimmy! Glad that I could help :)!
There are a lot of different fakes at the market! Please look out for them. When you open up the controller, the battery tells most of the times the truth. Is it genuine or not? If you want to be 100% sure to get a real one, buy (new) from Gamestop, Target, best buy or Wallmart (just named some examples, there are more shops which sells genuine controllers). You can’t be 100% sure if you buy it at Ebay or Amazon (examples).
Depends on the model! It could be that it’s connected at the other side. And otherwise you need to post pictures as I can determine if it’s real or not.
When you opened it up and the battery is as the original and the USB/LED board looks like the original one (with text in gold instead of white), you’re good to go. Those are genuine parts.
Noted. Thanks for your comment!
Hi!
When it’s charging the lightbar should blink orange all the time long. When it’s not blinking orange it’s not charging or done charging. Are you still able to turn the controller on? Anyway, you should have warranty on it, so you could return it. Looks like the battery is bad.
Hi! I prefer the IPS. This because it’s easier to fit (in a pre-cut case) and your batteries will last longer. You can also increase and decrease the brightness of the backlight.
Your welcome :)!
Short answer, but: yes :)
Your welcome :)!
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Yeah, It’s real. It does not only depend on the light :).
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