I have a window shade that was pulled down so far it won't recoil. It pulls out a little bit but then stops before it gets...

Ditto what oldturkey03 posted except you do not have to remove bulbs first. There is only one Phillips or (10mm?) hex head (jack) screw on my 2000 GC (WJ) that holds in the headlight. It's a really long screw, maybe 12cm/almost 5 inches long and thin, 2 or 3 mm. Only the last 1 cm is threaded. However, there are also three metal "posts" with knobs on the end that secure the headlight assembly to nylon sockets with "fingers" and if the headlight assembly isn't removed often they can be a bear to loosen. I recommend gloves to protect your hands and/or use wide wooden (paint stir sticks?) or non-metal to pry out so you don't scratch/chip painted surfaces or chip the lens plastic. (Maybe wrap cloth around a pry bar and be very careful.) The posts are located upper inner, upper outer and if I remember lower outer or maybe lower center of the assembly. They use posts so you can adjust the up/down direction of the headlight. (A hole on the upper part allows access to a torx or Phillips adjustment screw - I gave...

A flat blade screw driver that fits between any two of the 5 "lobes" may work or between one out-pointing lobe and an opposite in-pointing lobe... unless they're in there too tight. The right tool (pentalobe screwdriver) is really the right choice. It puts the force basically equally on the right places of the 5 edges. I tried a tri-lobe (security bit area) from Menards for the tri-lobe screw for the trackpad and it was too pointed to fit. A flatter tri-lobe is needed. I might have to spend the $$ and get the right sized tools as I plan on having to do some repairs. Then again, the tri-lobe from menards was only $2 so I might just try grinding down the tip with my Dremel. For the trackpad screw, a small flat blade did work from one outer lobe to the left or right of the opposite inner lobe (depending if loosening or tightening), but it wouldn't work on the smaller tri-lobed screws on the keyboard side of the trackpad as they were just too small for the blade.

It would be clearer if the displayed drawing of each bit actually said J-bit or PH-bit, and because both have 90 degree corners, maybe change the J-bit description to “have 90 degree square inside corners“ and include in the PH description “have 90 degree rounded inside corners.

Otherwise, with interpretation, your article helped me.