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There are a lot of reviews on the Smart Keyboard complaining that the device stops being recognised, typically after a year of use, it seems plausible that the conductive fabric is at fault, not quite as immune to folding as originally suggested. I’ve seen one YouTube video repair to the conductive cloth, is it worth revisiting and adding an iFixit repai guide? Antybody else out there upset by Apples refusal to admit this “design fault”. And willing to give it a go? Any hints on removing the micro-fiber cover so that it’s reusable (heat pads maybe). Best conductive replacement?
it was at this point that the plastic spacer jumped out for me. thanks for all the comments to keep an eye out for it
Everything fine to this point, but I found desoldering the microswitch that it's too easy to actually pull off the pad it's soldered too, leave me a nice little square of PCB that I couldn't reconnect anything too.. which then required removing the entire PCB board (some tiny parts). I should have started at the top and worked down, but i tried to pull out the wheel without removing the top board and broke part of the anchor/swivel - not going back together now!
I had a 2nd Generation 1TB TimeCapsule (model A1302) that was starting to act up, lots of 'backups incomplete' and then it started showing up as "Time Capsule may be overheating..." in AirPort utility. The Genius at Apple pointed out it was well out of warranty so I could buy a new one, or try a DIY fixit. I decided to try the WesterDigital 3TB green drive as it's had received good reviews from other upgrades. I can confirm that the WD30EZRX installed without a hitch, rebooted the TimeCapsule and all I had to do was erase the disk to see the whole 3TB space (it reported 2.7TB in AirPort utility, but When I restarted TimeMachine it reported 3TB free). yes! I did have to remove the old backup drive and restart a whole new backup from scratch - but maybe that's not a bad thing?
I noticed that the vertical sync cable seems to have been updated since the guide was produced. It now has a more normal plug and socket and 'regular' wires instead of the flat ribbon cable shown here. I used narrow nosed pliers instead of tweezers to unclip it as I was afraid that just pulling on the wires could have broken them.
Maybe if you're really careful when cutting it away you could reuse the moulding, or replace it with hot glue/Areldite or but the plug works find without it