Heather, These old 80 Series units didn't have a "cool-down" cycle at the end of the cycle. These pre-date the current dryers. So, ... You may have a couple of possible issues: You may have a bad High Limit Therm on the blow tube near the heater. Those are cheap to replace. The kit is Part # 3387134 and includes a Thermal fuse, High Limit Thermostat and a Cycle Thermostat (probably the real culprit). Replace them all. You can get them on Amazon or a local appliance parts store. The most expensive item, and the last in the line of heat controls (aside from the heating element which you have already replaced) is your Timer. I would need to know the Model # (found on the inside of the body hidden by the shut door) to know which Timer you would need... IF you needed to replace that. My suspicion is the Therm set with the bad cycle therm.

First, I need to know your model #, found on the body around the door. Open the door and I need the MOD number. Second, the reason for the loud spin cycle is due to the seal has leaked, and the bearings have gotten wet, and rusted, and it makes the sound of something like a jet engine starting-up, when it spins. Your bearings and seal need to be replaced. You can use it like this for only a few more cycles before the heat builds-up and the bearings will finally seize. The leak may be related to the broken seal, but it could also be coming from the drain pump motor. If you are able, you should see if you can get a look at the inside of your machine. Since I don't know if you have a top-load or a front-load washing machine, I can't direct you on how to look at the components inside, as access is different for these machines. But ultimately, you need to see if you can identify where the water is leaking-out from your Maytag Bravos. Update (02/18/2018): Further investigation, I see that you probably have a top...

Not sure what you mean by a rattle. Do you mean a "klacking" sound? That would be the motor coupling. Easy enough to change-out. Pull the body cover by removing the two screws that hold the control panel to the body, roll the control panel up, and remove the two clips on either side of the body to the rear panel using a flat head screw driver. Tilt the body back toward you, and remove. Take the clips off the pump motor, and then the clips on the motor. The coupling is a three-prong piece of plastic with a rubber cushion between it and the other coupling on the transmission. Break the old coupling, and replace with a new set, that has a metal keen-sert where it must be hammer-tapped onto the shaft of the transmission and the motor shaft. Be careful to use a 7/16" socket to tap the couplings on, or you will break them around the base on the transmission and motor posts. Realign the couplings through the rubber buffer, and re-clip the motor and the drain pump. Reassemble the body by holding the body by the...