It’s possible the display connector isn’t properly seated. I’ve had that happen or just a blinking LED notification light would come on. After reopening the phone and disconnect then reconnect the cables everything worked fine. It’s also possible the new replacement display is defective. By the way, if I turn on an Android phone and the Apple logo shows up, I’m droppin’ off the grid.
I bought this one from Amazon and it installed easily. Purchased in July, it’s still working perfectly with no imperfections or errors of any kind. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y4S...
The screen may not be the problem. It’s possible it’s the cables connecting the video board to the display itself. Was the t.v. dropped, knocked over or maybe hit by a power surge?
The body of the phone could be bent causing the screen to pop up OR there’s a foreign object that isn’t letting the display sit correctly in the body. I suggest you take it back to the person who replaced the screen and ask them to help figure it out. I’d listen carefully for any additional problems caused by the breaking of the screen.
Have you tested to be sure it’s the power switch causing the problem and not a faulty charger or something else? I have searched and find no pictures of the internal switch anywhere.
My grandson has the same model phone and also had a cracked screen. I purchased a new (after-market) one on eBay for $16.71 and replaced it. The phantom touches are likely caused by pressure from the broken glass. You might be able to reduce the pressure by very, very, VERY, carefully picking out some of the pieces with pointed tweezers. I do not suggest this by someone who isn’t prepared. Have a large, flat, clear surface to work on. Something laid out to catch the broken pieces, and maybe gloves to protect your fingers. Also you might try packing tape on the screen then peel off slowly. See if the broken pieces that come off with the tape were part of the problem.
Note that if you’re removing the leather back, you need to go down farther than just the leather. You have to pick up the plastic piece the leather is glued onto.
You can buy the OCA glue (sheets) online in many places but if it were me, I’d return the glass and purchase the display already together. Ifixit carries these and used at a very reasonable price. The reason I suggest returning the glass only is that if it is not done absolutely perfect, you wind up with bubbles or worse in your display. iPhone 5s LCD and Digitizer
It sounds like you have a faulty screen. When you touch the opposite area on the screen to make something happen for example, touch top left to make something happen on the bottom right. Does that sound like what’s going on with yours? The only fix is to return it and get a new, new screen.
Randy's answer is probably going to fix it. You might want to go ahead and check all flex cables to make sure they're seated correctly. Also, make sure the power and volume buttons weren't put in a bind when you put the thing together. I have had that happen (I hate being rushed) and had to remove the mid-frame to fix it.
I would’ve liked to see a picture of the two parts separated, laying so that I can see the connections of the display and the system board. This would be used to compare to items appearing in search results. It’s easier to be sure the part I’m ordering is the right part for the device when I have something to compare it to.
That black layer appears to be graphite and serves to be a heat shield. If it’s just damaged, you should be able to push it gently back together and continue on with your work.
The WiFi on the Turbo I’m working on has stopped working. The phone was reset to factory to see if this would fix it after all other try-this-first methods to fix had failed. I opened it to check there and find nothing apparently wrong.. No bent connectors or dirty pins. Any suggestions? I started to clean this section with alcohol but decided I’d better ask first. Any suggestions?
The NFC pad has to be transferred to the new battery or it won’t charge correctly if at all. The black appears to be graphite. No matter how carefully I picked the charging coil off, the black still came off in places. Most of it was still intact so the battery charged to 100% (Yay!) and although the battery discharged at a normal rate, Asurion Battery Health app shows it working at only 637% which, oddly enough, is about the amount of graphite that was scraped off during the removal process.
They’re not turning in the second section. The screw is just stuck in the black piece. Try using very pointed tweezers to help remove the screws. Put the points just underneath the screw head and hold it up as you unscrew it.
The outer screws are security screws. The ones on the system boards are Torx.
They go behind the trigger buttons on the board against the metal. Narrow side towards the button.
I would’ve liked to see a picture of the two parts separated, laying so that I can see the connections of the display and the system board. This would be used to compare to items appearing in search results. It’s easier to be sure the part I’m ordering is the right part for the device when I have something to compare it to.
That black layer appears to be graphite and serves to be a heat shield. If it’s just damaged, you should be able to push it gently back together and continue on with your work.
The WiFi on the Turbo I’m working on has stopped working. The phone was reset to factory to see if this would fix it after all other try-this-first methods to fix had failed. I opened it to check there and find nothing apparently wrong.. No bent connectors or dirty pins. Any suggestions? I started to clean this section with alcohol but decided I’d better ask first. Any suggestions?
Question: Does it render the old display (LCD) unusable or just the touchscreen?
The NFC pad has to be transferred to the new battery or it won’t charge correctly if at all. The black appears to be graphite. No matter how carefully I picked the charging coil off, the black still came off in places. Most of it was still intact so the battery charged to 100% (Yay!) and although the battery discharged at a normal rate, Asurion Battery Health app shows it working at only 637% which, oddly enough, is about the amount of graphite that was scraped off during the removal process.
Just out of curiosity, does anyone know the purpose for the two very strong magnets?
They’re not turning in the second section. The screw is just stuck in the black piece. Try using very pointed tweezers to help remove the screws. Put the points just underneath the screw head and hold it up as you unscrew it.
Amazon for one place .
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVF...
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