使用本指南来更换iPad Air的前玻璃面板和数字转换器。

需要注意的是由于home键上的Touch ID和逻辑主板是相互匹配的,这篇指南还包括替换home键的步骤。为了使Touch ID仍然可以使用,你需要将原有的home键安装在新的前面板上。

  1. 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。 将iOpener放在微波炉中央 。
    • 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。

    • 将iOpener放在微波炉中央 。

    • 对于旋转式微波炉:确保盘子可以自由旋转。如果转盘卡住了,iOpener可能会过热并燃烧

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - 回复

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 回复

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 回复

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 回复

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 回复

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 回复

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - 回复

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - 回复

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - 回复

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - 回复

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - 回复

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - 回复

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 回复

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - 回复

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - 回复

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - 回复

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - 回复

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - 回复

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - 回复

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - 回复

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - 回复

  2. 加热iOpener三十秒
    • 加热iOpener三十秒

    • 在整个维修过程中,如果iOpener 冷却了,在微波炉中每次重新加热额外的三十秒。

    • 注意在维修过程中不要过度加热iOpener,过热可能会导致iOpener爆炸。

    • 如果iOpener过热膨胀,千万不要触碰iOpener。

    • 如果iOpener中间部分依然烫的没法碰,请等待冷却后再使用,加热好的iOpener 应该可以保持热度十分钟

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 回复

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 回复

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 回复

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 回复

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 回复

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 回复

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.


    Karl Marble - 回复

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - 回复

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - 回复

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - 回复

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - 回复

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - 回复


    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Rapp -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 回复

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - 回复

  3. 把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来,捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个以避免碰到中心热的部分。
    • 把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来,捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个以避免碰到中心热的部分。

    • iOpener会非常烫,所以拿着它的时候千万要小心。必要的时候可以使用烤箱手套。

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 回复

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - 回复

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - 回复

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - 回复

  4. 如果您的显示屏玻璃已经碎裂,防止显示屏玻璃在您维修时进一步伤害您,请使用胶带来固定已经碎裂的屏幕。 给iPad 的正面整面贴上胶带。 这一步将保证在您翘起和移除显示屏时能够保持完整。
    • 如果您的显示屏玻璃已经碎裂,防止显示屏玻璃在您维修时进一步伤害您,请使用胶带来固定已经碎裂的屏幕。

    • 给iPad 的正面整面贴上胶带。

    • 这一步将保证在您翘起和移除显示屏时能够保持完整。

    • 尽量根据下面的指南进行操作。但,一旦玻璃破碎,请停下拆解并使用金属撬刀撬出玻璃,避免更多的碎裂。

    • 戴上安全眼镜来保护你的眼睛。 小心操作不要损坏了LCD内屏。

    If you add clear packaging tape, it will create bubbles and the suction cup will become inefficient. To me it was impossible to remove the glass with the suction cup. Since the glass was very cracked, I had to resort to some tweaking with strong tape and pull the this off.

    jfmartin67 - 回复

    If your screen is significantly cracked to the left edge, abandon this entire setup, prepare yourself for a 5-6 hour repair, expect a lot of patience, a lot of cursing and some good old American ingenuity. The suction cup and picks will not work. You have to carefully crack the glass yourself (w/out damaging the panel underneath and carefully pull it apart from the inside to the outside edges. Use a hairdryer to soften the glue under the cracked panel along the edges. Then use an exacto-knife to separate the pieces of the glued panel from the frame body, all the way around the device. Watch out for the home button ribbon connector when using the exacto-knife. There will be glue residue left over, carefully apply some goo-gone to a small area of a paper towel and wipe gently around the frame body to loosen the glue. Then use the plastic spudger tool to scrape off the excess glue.

    The iPad repair is VERY difficult. If you are a working adult, hire a pro. This is not for the faint of heart.

    aaroncope - 回复

    The hairdryer option was way faster and easier than the iOpener. Be VERY careful not to damage the LCD- one small mistake will cost you an extra $100!

    Mike Martin -

    but I’m not American

    Andrew Williams -

    If your digitizer is shattered, the tape will help, but you’re going to need extra picks. Or a razor blade. See below.

    Blair Miller - 回复

    Friendly observation that the image on this step is actually of an older ipad model as the side bezels are far too big. I don't know if that matters to anybody but a noob might see it and think this manual doesn't apply to them. : )

    notalawyer - 回复

    I had the same experience. My glass was cracked all the way to the left side and the suction cup would not pull the glass up. The packaging tape also didn't help. The heat caused it to lift. I finally abandoned the tape, used a heat gun aimed very carefully at each broken piece of the screen. The picks did work with patience, but I just pulled off each broken part of the glass. I also found that pulling up on one broken part while heating in front of me would let the next piece pull up. I continued heating and breaking all the way around. Do the right side last. Took about 1 hour to get it off, and another hour to clean the old glue off the frame. BTW thanks to this web site and all the comments! No way I would have done this without all the help here! I am now clean and waiting for my new digitizer. I couldn't free the battery (below), so I left it powered up, and verified it till worked before throwing away the old glass. Vince

    Vince Asbridge - 回复

    Taping with package tape doesn't work. You'll need a very large piece of tape if you go this route.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    Just finished successful repair. I would add this: most folks will be here because of cracked screen. This is not easy; believe the 'complex' rating on this repair. I put tape on my screen because it was badly cracked. This made the suction cup useless, because it just sucked the tape off the scree.n. I used the razor blade technique which worked great, it should be used in the demo, and a good blade should be in the kit.

    dale kingsbury - 回复

    I thought this shouldn’t be too hard - I only had some cracks in the glass, but then at every spot I worked on, the glass turned into nothing but tons of tiny shards. I had to use the points of the tweezers plowing along only the outer edge all the way around, sometimes with a razor blade and often using a hair dryer up close (briefly, over and over). After I got every bit of glass out, I used ordinary rubbing alcohol and Q-tips but I had to rub hard and quickly 100 times on each area to slowly dissolve the glue. I only scratched the LCD once slightly with a tweezer slip. The large chucks of display held together by the packing tape needs something under it to protect the LCD while you are working.

    Robin - 回复

  5. 将iOpener放置在iPad左侧。也就是Home键左侧位置。 将iOpener放置至少一分钟来软化玻璃下面的粘合剂。
    • 将iOpener放置在iPad左侧。也就是Home键左侧位置。

    • 将iOpener放置至少一分钟来软化玻璃下面的粘合剂。

    The iOpener doesn't work because the heat isn't strong enough. I used a hair dryer which proved to be much more efficient.

    jfmartin67 - 回复

    The iOpener didnt work for me either. seems like it gets hot enough but it must not. I spent 30 min with the iOpener, then tried a hair dryer.

    kinchma - 回复

    “At least a minute.” Bullshit. Get the iOpener good and hot, place it on the area you’re going to work on clear side down, and cover it with a towel. Walk away for 2 minutes. Make yourself a drink — you’ll need steady hands later.

    Blair Miller - 回复

    I've done this with an iOpener and at least in my case, it worked fine. You may have to modify the heating instructions though, since not all microwaves are created equal.

    Jeff Suovanen - 回复

    ii i just did this and it took a while but i figured it out it is true this thing doesnt get hot enough BUT heat it 2 times and then the 3rd time when u place it on the ipad put the ipad box on top and then maybe a second ipad on top of the box so it kinda smashes i down but not too much for it to break and then wait for it to turn warm THEN use the succion THEN the gap appears. the glue is super strong on the ipads so yea it will take some time lol

    Joel Tyson - 回复

    Doesn't work. Perhaps include more copy on exactly how to do it?

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    The iOpener does not work. It simply it is not hard enough to soften the glue. The heat hair dryer method does not work either.

    Javier Lozada - 回复

    The goal is simply to weaken the glue enough that you can use your suction cup to open up a tiny gap under the glass, so you can insert an opening pick and slice through the adhesive. It doesn't actually take all that much heat; the picks will do most of the work once you get them in there. iOpeners, hair dryers, heat guns all work fine in my experience—the iOpener is just a bit more foolproof because it won't get hot enough to cook the display panel underneath.

    Jeff Suovanen - 回复

    I used iron..surprise!! yeah pretty fast tho…put a layer of fabric (towel in my case) ontop, along the edge of screen and start ironing..


    carvelera - 回复

    If using a hair dryer or heat gun make sure it is not too high heat. My heat gun has two settings, one 750 degree and an 1100. After using it on high I discolored the digitizer and warped the LCD slightly (only shows on pure white backgrounds). Low worked for the rest of the repair just fine. Also using a razor blade or something besides the pick works nice for the initial pry. Once you have a gap big enough, insert the pic and you’re all set.

    Robert - 回复

    I don’t have an iOpener, my heat gun wasn’t handy. The last time I did something like this it was a 90-100 degree day, so I just put it out in the sun for a while, and it worked great. This time it’s fall, so I used a 420W halogen Light that I have for photography. (A standard heat lamp would probably work too, but might take longer.) I held it close to the light until it felt hot to the touch, just a couple minutes, then I left is sitting about 16” below the light for 5-10 minutes to sink in and warm uniformly. It worked great.

    For me, steps 8-31 were basically one step "Carefully pry off the digitizer glass with the plastic tools" took all of 30 seconds.

    Seth Childers - 回复

    Although very hard this does work. The first time opening the ipad after buying it 8+ years ago it took about 3 times of heating the iopener. It did require an amount of pressure I did not expect but it did come open as instructed. I did add a towel and apply pressure to the iopener to make sure the heat transferred.

    hmcarbajal - 回复

    The iOpener didn’t work for me at all, zero, it literally did nothing. I resorted to my heat gun on low and yeah you need to be super careful, but once I started the adhesive came off pretty easy.

    David Yutzy - 回复

    I used a 2-level heat gun, too. Supposedly 707 degrees/923 degrees.

    I kept the heat gun about 1” away from the glass and used only the low setting. Even so, I did alter the digitizer pretty quickly in a few locations around the edge. It still functions fine, and you only see it under certain circumstances, so not a huge deal. But irritating. Be cautious about too much heat. It just looks like sort of a faint, polarized grid.

    Don’t be afraid to put tension on the glue and just hold it. If it is warm enough, the glue will relax under sustained tension. This isn’t a speed event. Don’t try to rush it, or you’ll break something.

    Now that those infrared surface thermometers have become so inexpensive, it would be great if someone posted a target temperature for softening the glue without damage. That would take some of the guesswork out of this process.

    Tim - 回复

  6. 虽然iPad看起来是一体化高度集成的,但在玻璃面板下面有许多细小的部件,避免伤害那些部件,只能加热或撬动指南内所描述到的区域。 在您按照本指南操作时,请小心下述区域。 前置摄像头
    • 虽然iPad看起来是一体化高度集成的,但在玻璃面板下面有许多细小的部件,避免伤害那些部件,只能加热或撬动指南内所描述到的区域。

    • 在您按照本指南操作时,请小心下述区域。

    • 前置摄像头

    • 天线

    • 显示排线

    Don't assume anything!! I thought I was pulling on the screen connector and I was pulling on an antenna component instead. Didn't ruin its connection range but I sure remember doing it and now my iPad has a little internal flaw only I'm aware of.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    Correct me if I’m wrong but the LTE version apparently has 2 antennas on each side of the front-facing camera and it’s not shown on this post to avoid prying. I just scratched one of them following these instructions.

    Pacman - 回复

    A note about the multiple image thumbnails - roll your mouse over them to get an animated effect, rather than clicking on them individually

    Rusty - 回复

  7. 将吸盘小心的放在刚加热的一侧中间的位置。 确保吸盘已经牢牢吸住前玻璃面板。 使用一只手在固定住iPad,另一只手慢慢提起吸盘,将前玻璃面板与后壳分离。
    • 将吸盘小心的放在刚加热的一侧中间的位置。

    • 确保吸盘已经牢牢吸住前玻璃面板。

    • 使用一只手在固定住iPad,另一只手慢慢提起吸盘,将前玻璃面板与后壳分离。

    In this picture above, the glass isn't cracked at all so it helps the suction cup to be effective as it is hermetic. With cracked display, it won't work.

    jfmartin67 - 回复

    Suction cup would not work for me. No amount of heating with iOpener or hair dryer would allow even the slightest gap to form. I ended up looking at some YouTube videos and used a razor blade. I put the razor blade perpendicular to the top glass, right at the edge of the glass and pushed down until the blade went down 1/4". Then heated some more and pried up the glass enough to put in an opening pick. I spent a lot of time working with the suction cup. Glue was just too strong.

    kinchma - 回复

    It's funny that iFixit changed the image they used. Even they themselves realized how stupid it was to try a suction cup on taped up surface. C'mon guys! You should at least make foot notes for your readers and let them know what to do if the glass is already shattered. It's a slow methodical process that involves working with a iOpener type tool. I personally have one that looks like a prison shank (lol)

    Scott S - 回复

    Not sure what you are referring to there—I see no evidence in the document history of the photos having been changed. Suction cup + packing tape can work, but it depends how badly the glass is broken and the quality of the tape. Sometimes it takes a couple attempts. You can also skip the suction cup and try using tape alone to pull on the panel, if your tape is sticky enough. There are no guarantees though, which is why we have the disclaimer right in Step 4 that the procedure can be pretty fussy if you're working with a shattered panel. Depending on where it's broken and how badly, you're going to have to improvise.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Jeff, the change is evident from image 4, where all the surface is taped up. In this picture you show a clean not broken surface and yes, the suction cup works...

    Simone Gabbriellini -

    Ah, I see what you're saying! I can understand why you guys would assume that, but in reality the entire guide was originally photographed using an intact panel. We later added a step showing how to protect yourself if you have a shattered panel (with photos to go along with, obviously). I'm afraid it wouldn't be practical to re-shoot the entire guide every time we make a small change like that.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The suction cup is useless if your glass is shattered. Use a new, sharp razor blade, and insert it vertically between the edge of the glass and the metal back of the iPad. Don’t worry about pressing too hard — there’s a lip that stops the blade from going in too far and damaging anything. You’ll probably have to do this several times, but eventually the blade will “bite” into the edge of the glass well enough for you to pry it up. Insert a pick underneath the razor, then remove the razor and continue as directed.

    Blair Miller - 回复

    After having to read several comments on this screen removal and the clear packing tape, I too have to agree that the tape method does not work well at all if your screen is already shattered. I combined several methods, with lots of patience to remove the screen on my iPad Air 2. What I found it very helpful was the heat gun used for paint removal. The heat gun generates a lot of concentrated heat at lower air velocity, unlike generic hair dryer, so you must be very careful not to ruin the electronics, and risk burning your hands and anything around it. My heat gun that I purchased from Home Depot had a nozzle to direct and focus the heat on a small area. That was helpful in working small area at a time. This method work thoroughly well.

    Taiji Saotome - 回复

    It would work if you leave iopener in microwave for 1 minute.

    Don’t trust the instruction from ifixit.

    you can put iopener in microwave for 1 minute without any harm.

    Note. you have to make sure that it is in cold position before you put it into microwave.

    phongsiri nirachornkul - 回复

    Suction cup didn’t work for me either, went the razor blade route (using an exacto knife blade) with very minimal damage to the aluminum shell. Be warned, if your screen has cracked along the edge (as it almost 100% certainly has if you’re reading this guide), the screen will continue to shatter and splinter as you make your way around the edge. That’s when having the screen taped up well will be to your advantage. There’s also a good chance you’ll have to re-insert the razor blade on the other side of a fracture and start the lifting process again, but keep going, being sure to avoid the points called out in this guide and you should be fine.

    Also, do not apply the suction cup to an area of the screen with cracks and no tape. If you’re near the edge you run the risk of brutally shattering that area of the glass if the glass gives before the suction cup.

    Micah Sledge - 回复

    In order to get this to work for me I had to heat the IOpener to over 104 C - I needed to get the screen over 40 C before the adhesive would loosen.

    Also I had to put the ipad on a towel - the granite countertop it was on was sucking the heat out too fast.

    Jack Williams - 回复

    This step was brutal on my nerves - read about too many people ruining their iOpener and I don’t have a heat gun. I had to keep heating the iOpener incrementally hoping I wouldn’t pop it. … but if you’re patient, persistent, and cautious, you can definitely tell when you’re seeing separation. The iOpener ended up being WAY hotter than 30 seconds was getting me - borderline scorching my hands.

    William Thompson - 回复

    Could not loosen the adhesive using the iOpener. Had to use hair dryer.

    Erwin yi - 回复

    As the others noted, the suction cup is useless on a cracked screen, especially if you’ve applied tape (like the instructions say you should). The screen I was working on was busted up pretty bad, I ended up removing it and then going back to remove the edge glass and adhesive. When you have a really busted screen just take your time and use a heat gun or good hot hair dryer and it will eventually come off.

    I used an iSesame tool vs a razor to pry the edge (from a previous replacement project) but again, the iOpener and suction cup are useless.

    David Yutzy - 回复

    Thank you for the comments above. I was using the iOpener unsuccessfully, then turned to the hair dryer and heated it up for over 3 minutes. This gave me the gap I needed to insert the opening pick and begin the process. So, with patience and a hair dryer, I was able to get the digitizer off.

    0812mgr - 回复

  8. 在刚刚打开的缝隙处放置一个撬片。 切勿将撬片插入深度超过黑色边框,这样深入过度可能会使LCD屏幕受损。 然后取下吸盘。
    • 在刚刚打开的缝隙处放置一个撬片。

    • 切勿将撬片插入深度超过黑色边框,这样深入过度可能会使LCD屏幕受损。

    • 然后取下吸盘。

    I found it much easier to use a single edge razor blade instead of the pick. After getting that inserted, it was easy to slip the pick between the blade and the case. Disclaimer - Razor blades are very sharp and you could easily hurt yourself or your iPad if you use one.

    donprius - 回复

    This is an amazing tip! After trying for 10 minutes to use the pick with no luck, I grabbed a small razor blade and that worked perfectly to get me started!! Thanks!!

    Ashley Garner - 回复

    The suction cup also didn’t work to create a gap - it cracked the screen when i tried to lift (the screen was already cracked). This was after rotating between the iOpener and a microwavable hot pack for food. The iOpener was around 175 degrees, it brought the surface of the iPad to 130. I was finally able to lift the glass using a razor blade and then the picks like donprius. I continued to use the iOpener to loosen the glue around the rest of the iPad but I think a heat gun would have been more efficient.

    Marc Ducret - 回复

    You have to heat the glue really much, or you will, as i did, crack the glass.

    Linus Grüne - 回复

    Best bet is to mark the pick with a sharpie line on how far your maximum limit is so you don’t damage the LCD.

    Jon Snyder - 回复

    The iOpener works well, be patient and keep reheating until you can see the screen start to give a little. I kept putting mine in the microwave and it worked faster when the iOpener was hotter. 40 second intervals did the trick for me eventually

    Jackson Taylor - 回复

    I spent an hour trying to lift the screen of an iPad Air first gen. The trick I found was that its a combination of lifting the screen a millimetre and then wiggling a razor blade vertically in the slot between the screen and the metal frame (yes its a microscopic slot). I used a hair drier on a section of the edge of the middle of the screen as above. The middle area allows for a bit of flexibility in the rail - we’re talking 0.5mm which is just enough for the razor.

    So hit a section of the screen edge with the drier till its hot to touch, do the suction cap thing as above, insert the blade vertically and wiggle it *ever so slightly* in the slot as you don’t want to break anything. Keep repeating this until you see even the slightest rise in the screen under the cap. At this point, remove the razor and insert the blue pick. It should easily dig in and under the screen, but no further than the black border.

    Remember, small wiggly steps will avoid breaking anything. Better a number of small heat and wiggles than a lift and snap.

    Rusty - 回复

    for those who need to open more than one iPad, the iflex is safer and more effective than a razor blade. i use it to get started then switch to a pick

    iFlex Opening Tool

    Stow - 回复

  9. 再次加热iOpener然后放置在刚才的位置。
    • 再次加热iOpener然后放置在刚才的位置。

    • 小心,请勿在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。 在重新加热iOpener之前请至少等待10分钟。

    This says "Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener", however the iOpener itself has a warning printed upon it that says wait at least 10 minutes. And that 10 minutes warning is also mentioned in Step 2 above.

    Scott - 回复

    Sorry about that! We fixed the text on this step. The two-minute interval was for an older version of the iOpener—the text printed on your iOpener will have the correct interval, which is indeed ten minutes. It can burst if overheated or reheated too quickly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  10. 沿着第一个撬片的开的口处插入另外一个翘片同时向下滑动,让撬片分离粘合剂。 沿着第一个撬片的开的口处插入另外一个翘片同时向下滑动,让撬片分离粘合剂。 沿着第一个撬片的开的口处插入另外一个翘片同时向下滑动,让撬片分离粘合剂。
    • 沿着第一个撬片的开的口处插入另外一个翘片同时向下滑动,让撬片分离粘合剂。

    You guys really need to show how it's done when your iPad isn't perfect like the one pictured above.. C'mon..

    Scott S - 回复


    Corey Barcus -

    How do you slide the picks when the glass is broken? Even with the glass taped, it pulls away from the tape rather than the housing. I've just further shattered the glass with my attempts.

    chrisweiler - 回复

    With my shattered screen, I was able to remove it using the suction cup slightly and a metal pry, had to break the edge glass some for removal also but it didn’t do damage. More layers of shipping tape helped to make the screen stay together better and come off more intact.

    Jackson Taylor - 回复

  11. 继续沿着下方继续滑动来将粘合剂分离。 如果撬片卡住了,请沿着iPad的侧面滚动撬片,然后继续进行分离工作。 如果撬片卡住了,请沿着iPad的侧面滚动撬片,然后继续进行分离工作。
    • 继续沿着下方继续滑动来将粘合剂分离。

    • 如果撬片卡住了,请沿着iPad的侧面滚动撬片,然后继续进行分离工作。

    This gives a false illusion to the difficulty of these repairs when you guys make guides using perfect devices. What about devices with dinged corners? A reader is gonna slap on a new screen and shatter it the second they apply pressure thinking it will fit into a dented corner lol

    Scott S - 回复

  12. 将第一个插入iPad的撬片向上滑动到iPad的左上角 撬片可能会出现图片上的情况,请不要慌张。 只需将撬片拉出一点点来继续进行维修工作。 但要避免这种情况,因为粘合剂可能会粘附在LCD显示屏上变得难以清理。 撬片可能会出现图片上的情况,请不要慌张。 只需将撬片拉出一点点来继续进行维修工作。 但要避免这种情况,因为粘合剂可能会粘附在LCD显示屏上变得难以清理。
    • 将第一个插入iPad的撬片向上滑动到iPad的左上角

    • 撬片可能会出现图片上的情况,请不要慌张。 只需将撬片拉出一点点来继续进行维修工作。 但要避免这种情况,因为粘合剂可能会粘附在LCD显示屏上变得难以清理。

    I managed to get a couple of fingerprints on the LCD.

    What's the best way to clean 'em off?

    What's the safest way?

    Mike McIntosh - 回复

    What I’ve read, and seems to work, is gentle circular pressure with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth. Lacking that, use a TINY drop of water ON THE CLOTH, not on the LCD. Small amounts of alcohol can be used, in my experience, but only if the above don’t work, and with better results if used in small amounts and applied to the cloth, not the LCD.

    Bonnie Baxter - 回复

    Can confirm. Microfiber with a little isopropyl worked great to clean off any adhesive or fingerprints from mine. Thanks for the tip.

    Robert -

  13. 重新加热iOpener 并将其放置在iPad顶部边缘位置且高于前置摄像头。
    • 重新加热iOpener 并将其放置在iPad顶部边缘位置且高于前置摄像头。

    • 小心,请勿在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。 在重新加热iOpener之前请至少等待10分钟。

    • 如果您有可以弯折的iOpener,您可以弯折其使其同时加热左上角边缘位置。

  14. 在左顶部插入撬片来分离粘合剂。 在左顶部插入撬片来分离粘合剂。 在左顶部插入撬片来分离粘合剂。
    • 在左顶部插入撬片来分离粘合剂。

  15. 滑动撬片直到快接近前置摄像头位置时停下 第三张图片展示了iPad前置摄像头的位置。 避免使用撬片直接滑过前置摄像头,这样做可能会污损到摄像头。 接下来的步骤将会详细说明如何避免损伤前置摄像头。
    • 滑动撬片直到快接近前置摄像头位置时停下

    • 第三张图片展示了iPad前置摄像头的位置。

    • 避免使用撬片直接滑过前置摄像头,这样做可能会污损到摄像头。 接下来的步骤将会详细说明如何避免损伤前置摄像头。

  16. 轻轻拉出些许撬片,并沿着前置摄像头顶部位置慢慢的滑动。 轻轻拉出些许撬片,并沿着前置摄像头顶部位置慢慢的滑动。 轻轻拉出些许撬片,并沿着前置摄像头顶部位置慢慢的滑动。
    • 轻轻拉出些许撬片,并沿着前置摄像头顶部位置慢慢的滑动。

    At this point I’d use paper tape on the margins of the screen to mask off areas where you should use caution with the pick. Its just a visual reminder not to run the picker too deep in these areas. They are: the camera lens, lower right hand side and where the two antenna are along the base. Step 6 third image highlights these areas.

    Rusty - 回复

  17. 将刚才那片撬片稍微滑过前置摄像头然后放在原位不动。 拿另一片撬片插入到摄像头的左侧位置然后滑动到转角位置,完成对该边缘部分的粘合剂分离工作。 拿另一片撬片插入到摄像头的左侧位置然后滑动到转角位置,完成对该边缘部分的粘合剂分离工作。
    • 将刚才那片撬片稍微滑过前置摄像头然后放在原位不动。

    • 拿另一片撬片插入到摄像头的左侧位置然后滑动到转角位置,完成对该边缘部分的粘合剂分离工作。

  18. 将刚才那片撬片稍微深入iPad之中,从摄像头处滑动到右上角。 将刚才那片撬片稍微深入iPad之中,从摄像头处滑动到右上角。 将刚才那片撬片稍微深入iPad之中,从摄像头处滑动到右上角。
    • 将刚才那片撬片稍微深入iPad之中,从摄像头处滑动到右上角。

  19. 将撬片放在原位,以防粘合剂再次粘连。
    • 将撬片放在原位,以防粘合剂再次粘连。

    • 重新加热iOpener将其放在有锁定和音量按钮一侧。

  20. 滑动右上角的撬片,分离那部分的粘合剂。 将这个撬片就放在这,防止粘合剂重新粘连。     重新拿一个撬片来进行下一步。
    • 滑动右上角的撬片,分离那部分的粘合剂。

    • 将这个撬片就放在这,防止粘合剂重新粘连。 重新拿一个撬片来进行下一步。

  21. 在右侧插入一个新的撬片来分离粘合剂,滑动到中部位置时停下。 显示排线大约位于iPad底部到顶部一半的位置。 当您从底部向上滑动撬片大概4.5"(约11.43cm)位置时请停止滑动。 显示排线大约位于iPad底部到顶部一半的位置。 当您从底部向上滑动撬片大概4.5"(约11.43cm)位置时请停止滑动。
    • 在右侧插入一个新的撬片来分离粘合剂,滑动到中部位置时停下。

    • 显示排线大约位于iPad底部到顶部一半的位置。 当您从底部向上滑动撬片大概4.5"(约11.43cm)位置时请停止滑动。

    Why there’s such an obsession with not damaging the cables is beyond me. Be careful, so as not to damage what the cables are connected to. But the cables are part of the replacement digitizer, so if you nick or even slice through them (like I did with the one closest to the bottom) don’t worry about it.

    Blair Miller - 回复

    Keep in mind that some people are here to open an intact display to replace internal components! In those cases, keeping the cables un-harmed is quite important ;)

    Sam Goldheart -

    My digitizer WAS ok and I was only replacing the battery I wasn't careful enough when coming around the side with the pics and got a hold of the cable just enough with the pic to pull it off the underside of the panel. The battery replacement went great other than now I have to replace the digitizer. :(


    Dylan Bouterse - 回复

    And if you are replacing the digitizer, you have to reuse the fingerprint sensor home button. I sliced through mine and now I’ll not have fingerprint sensor. Each home button is matched to the main board and if switched out you will loose that sensor ability.

    David - 回复

    Like others, I damaged my digitizer cable while doing a battery replacement. It would be a good idea to use some blue tape to mark the spots to avoid during the glue slicing procedure.

    donprius - 回复

    I also damaaged the digitizer cable while doing a battery replacement. Use just the tip of the opening pick.

    Dean Gross - 回复

  22. 就把撬片放在停下的位置,然后重新加热iOpener然后放置在iPad的底部。
    • 就把撬片放在停下的位置,然后重新加热iOpener然后放置在iPad的底部。

  23. 滑动左下边的撬片来分离粘合剂。 滑动到左下角时停止滑动。 然后放置在此。 第三张图片展示了在iPad 下方的2个天线和Home键
    • 滑动左下边的撬片来分离粘合剂。

    • 滑动到左下角时停止滑动。 然后放置在此。

    • 第三张图片展示了在iPad 下方的2个天线和Home键

    • 接下来的步骤将会指导您如何避免伤害这些部件。 只加热和撬动指南所指示的部位。

  24. 将原撬片放置在原位,以防粘合剂重新粘合。 拿一片新的撬片,轻轻的从左天线处滑动到home键前。 只能从iPad外边缘向内滑动 请勿按照相反方向滑动 这样可能会损坏天线。
    • 将原撬片放置在原位,以防粘合剂重新粘合。

    • 拿一片新的撬片,轻轻的从左天线处滑动到home键前。

    • 只能从iPad外边缘向内滑动 请勿按照相反方向滑动 这样可能会损坏天线。

    • 如果您需要再次滑动来清理粘合剂,请取出撬片然后从外边缘重新插入再向内滑动。

    • 将撬片放置不动。

  25. 拿一片新的撬片来从刚才那片撬片右边继续滑动。 滑过Home键和右侧天线。只使用尖端来去除粘合剂。 滑过Home键和右侧天线。只使用尖端来去除粘合剂。
    • 拿一片新的撬片来从刚才那片撬片右边继续滑动。

    • 滑过Home键和右侧天线。只使用尖端来去除粘合剂。

  26. 随着粘合剂的松动,您现在可以将撬片插入右下角了。 就和左侧一样,相反方向的滑动可能会损伤天线。 就和左侧一样,相反方向的滑动可能会损伤天线。
    • 随着粘合剂的松动,您现在可以将撬片插入右下角了。

    • 就和左侧一样,相反方向的滑动可能会损伤天线。

    This step needs a BIG CAVEAT to not insert the pick far enough to damage the home button/touch ID cable, as it is DIRECTLY above where you’re directing people to insert the pick. I just ruined a ribbon cable by following this guide too closely.

    tabormeister - 回复

  27. 重新加热iOpener 并将其放置在有音量按键的一侧。
    • 重新加热iOpener 并将其放置在有音量按键的一侧。

  28. 请小心操作本步骤。  花点时间来确保粘合剂是热并柔软的,并且您已经使用撬片打开了所有开口。 以及不要害怕停止和重新加热。 在音量控制侧面相反的那一面,你应该确保那一面的每个角都已插入撬片。 旋转撬片然后轻轻提起玻璃面板,沿着显示屏排线边缘清理掉最后的粘合剂。
    • 请小心操作本步骤。 花点时间来确保粘合剂是热并柔软的,并且您已经使用撬片打开了所有开口。 以及不要害怕停止和重新加热。

    • 在音量控制侧面相反的那一面,你应该确保那一面的每个角都已插入撬片。 旋转撬片然后轻轻提起玻璃面板,沿着显示屏排线边缘清理掉最后的粘合剂。

    • 如果在此步骤遇到很大的阻力难以撬起屏幕请重新加热iOpener 然后将其放置在难以撬起的区域。

    You will end up having to scrape the outter ledge to remove the old screen. I bled and got glass shards everywhere. Good luck!

    Travis Dixon - 回复

  29. 慢慢的提起玻璃面板,来进一步分离粘合剂。 慢慢的提起玻璃面板,来进一步分离粘合剂。
    • 慢慢的提起玻璃面板,来进一步分离粘合剂。

  30. 在支起玻璃面板的同时,用撬片分离掉最后的粘合剂。 一定要小心操作,不要切割或损坏任何显示排线。 一定要小心操作,不要切割或损坏任何显示排线。
    • 在支起玻璃面板的同时,用撬片分离掉最后的粘合剂。

    • 一定要小心操作,不要切割或损坏任何显示排线。

    Detailed pictures that better indicate the difference between the remaining adhesive and the two mylar cables (the very cables you are trying to avoid damaging!) would be much appreciated. On my unit the two were VERY hard to distinguish.

    dlcatftwin - 回复

    This step does not need to be performed here. I cut this adhesive once I had removed the lcd and display cables. This makes it much easier to avoid damaging anything. Just prop the glass up on something while you perform steps 31 - 42, then cut remaining adhesive and remove.

    Robert - 回复

    The front camera has a black bezel cover but it is attached to the broken glass digitizer. Peel it off and save it. I plan to tack glue it to the camera instead of gluing it back to the new digitizer glass. It has two alignment bumps so maybe it doesn’t need gluing to either side but I found it on the ground when it came off of the the broken digitizer. I almost tossed it as part of the broken glass.

    Robin - 回复

  31. 一旦粘合剂全部分离掉,就像打开书一样将玻璃面板放在工作台上。 要重新组装时 使用异丙醇清理掉残留的粘合剂,并使用预切割好的粘合胶带来替代去除掉的粘合剂。
    • 一旦粘合剂全部分离掉,就像打开书一样将玻璃面板放在工作台上。

    • 要重新组装时 使用异丙醇清理掉残留的粘合剂,并使用预切割好的粘合胶带来替代去除掉的粘合剂。

    • 再重新组装时,iPad框架和玻璃面板很容易夹住排线,请小心操作将他们轻轻折叠在框架下方,如果操作过当造成损伤那么就会超出你的维修能力。

    my replacement digitizer has rigid flex with adhesive tape where the connectors extend. how does this “fold” back inside the frame?

    David - 回复

    Same here. I removed the adhesive tape, but now what?

    Dvi -

    It looks like I have the same or similar question: the “hinge” part of the digitizer cables (the flap portion) looks like it is supposed to tuck into the crevice between the LCD panel and the side of the aluminum body - my replacement (from iFixit) has sticky contact on the upper side of this flap, making me think that its supposed to adhere to the side of the LCD panel, but the instructions do not make this clear - is my assumption correct?

    dlcatftwin - 回复

    Or, does the flap adhere to the underside of the front panel’s right edge?

    dlcatftwin - 回复

    I attempted to put this protrusion underneath the LCD, and it kept coming up above the LCD. As there were no instructions, I put it as best as I could underneath the LCD as I cannot imagine that it folds up against itself?

    Dvi - 回复

    I tried to put it ‘inside’ the case but was not able to - at the end, I just glued it against the front glass.

    I must have done something wrong with the new home-button assembly as the fingerprint sensor does not work anymore - However, I am not going to go through that repair again so passcode it is.

    Michael Berneis - 回复

    My screen from ifixit had the rigid flaps with adhesive also. I removed adhesive and adhered it to the new glass, it worked fine and solved the problem with the flaps not pushing down.

    Jackson Taylor - 回复

    if there is adhesive glue on the inside of the digitizer and the top of the LCD what do you recommend to clean it.

    scprillwitz - 回复

    Don’t throw away your old screen until you take the home button off of it! My screen was shattered and I kind of have a phobia of broken glass, so I bundled it all up and threw it into the trash can immediately. Next day when I went to continue the job I was sad that my roommate had finally taken out the trash for once and my home button was halfway to the dump by then.

    Sparky - 回复

    Cleaning with isopropyl alcohol is not really working well. I am using it with a qtip. Is there a certain way you recommend in order to actually the adhesive off?

    Brooke Parkhouse - 回复

  32. 剥离固定LCD屏幕螺丝上的胶带。 剥离固定LCD屏幕螺丝上的胶带。 剥离固定LCD屏幕螺丝上的胶带。
    • 剥离固定LCD屏幕螺丝上的胶带。

  33. 拆下固定LCD屏幕的Phillips #00螺丝。
    • 拆下固定LCD屏幕的Phillips #00螺丝。

    • 3个4.0 mm螺丝

    • 1个4.8 mm螺丝

    Use the provided replace screen case's square compartments to place your screws into as you remove them. Really helpful and you likely won't mess up.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    I tape a stripe of double sided tape on my workbench. You can place the screws on the tape on the location where the screw would be if it was in the screen assembly. In this step, your screws would be in the four corners of the tape stripe, with the longest screw (4,8mm) in the upper left corner. The other screws from the next steps can also be placed on the tape this way.

    Brecht Bocket - 回复

    **I believe you mean the “top Right corner” Is where the longer screw goes.. not left.

    Amanda Felske -

    ! went to Office World bought 4 packs of bluetac stuck them on a sheet of paper to give approximately size and shape of iPad put it in a flat cardboard box

    John Smith - 回复

  34. 因为LCD屏幕任然在Home键附近有许多排线与iPad Air主体相连,切勿尝试完全的将LCD屏移开。   仅可从前置摄像头尾端处抬起屏幕。 使用撬棒扁平的一段来从前置摄像头一边撬起一道可以让你手指抓住LCD 屏幕的缝隙。 从前置摄像头处提起iPad Air 的LCD屏幕,就像翻书一样将它翻转到Home键一侧。
    • 因为LCD屏幕任然在Home键附近有许多排线与iPad Air主体相连,切勿尝试完全的将LCD屏移开。 仅可从前置摄像头尾端处抬起屏幕。

    • 使用撬棒扁平的一段来从前置摄像头一边撬起一道可以让你手指抓住LCD 屏幕的缝隙。

    • 从前置摄像头处提起iPad Air 的LCD屏幕,就像翻书一样将它翻转到Home键一侧。

    • 小心驶得万年船,切勿操之过急。在您进行翻转的时候请同时盯着LCD排线。

    • 放下LCD屏幕,以便来处理LCD的排线。

    • 请将LCD屏幕放置在柔软、干净、无绒的表面。

    Got a cracked screen from toddler stepping on the iPad. My repair went well, everything worked. Except I scratched the LCD. It seems to scratch easily.

    At this step, be careful when folding over the screen, as it may scratch on the aluminum frame (third picture). When they say “soft lint free surface” that is needed, specifically where the LCD meets the frame. Place a thin cloth like sunglass cleaning cloth over the edge of the frame.

    Cobus de Beer - 回复

  35. 取下固定电池排线到逻辑板的2.3 mm Phillips #000 螺丝 为了降低短路的风险,您可以使用电池隔离撬片来断开电池与逻辑板的连接。 将电池隔离撬片插入电池连接部位的下方,并将其放在此位置。
    • 取下固定电池排线到逻辑板的2.3 mm Phillips #000 螺丝

    • 为了降低短路的风险,您可以使用电池隔离撬片来断开电池与逻辑板的连接。

    • 将电池隔离撬片插入电池连接部位的下方,并将其放在此位置。

    after inserting the tab between the battery, im having an issue with the battery taking a charge. charging port sees a cord plugged in, but this connection between battery and logic board is gone. any ideas?

    Matt - 回复

    Hi were u able to fix this issue? I accidentally fried out the shield that secured the battery connector..now the ipad wont turn on :(

    Drew -

    Not having the isolation pick, I used 2 thin guitar picks instead, which did the job fine.

    goodcyning - 回复

    I couldn't disconnect the battery connector - I applied some force, nothing happened and I was afraid of applying too much force - so I just left it connected and I was very careful not to short out any terminals with metal tools. I completed the repair without any other issues and the iPad now seems to be working fine.

    Peter Gray - 回复

    A little explanation here would be nice. Also, there wasn't a battery isolation pick in my kit. You should address this.

    dougintexas - 回复

    Mine was missing. Made one with scissors but still didn't do the trick. I just worked with the batteries still plugged in.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    Couldn’t get the battery terminal disconnected so I continued with repair. I didn’t short anything but now it won’t do anything. It worked before, just a cracked glass to replace. Any solutions?

    Tech-ER - 回复

    Why do you say you didn’t short anything? Your result would seem to suggest otherwise

    John Marx -

    I don’t know if it applies to the iPad Air, but I saw elsewhere in my researches in reference to a iPad mini (or was it an iPod mini?) that disconnecting the LCD and/or digitizer with the battery still connected will blow a “fuse” for the backlight. Might yours still be working, just with no screen illumination whatsoever? Dunno. Just a thought.

    It apparently can be repaired, but is no longer a DIY job.

    Tim -

    try lifting the board and not blocking the connector. If you block the connector there are pins that could be damaged.

    Bryan Cruse - 回复

    So, you say this method is outdated, is there a better method?

    Richard Brumfield - 回复

    Did you find anything on this?

    Robert Wood -

    A replacement of the battery connector is required if pins are bent should you get power on or charge issue after battery disconnection. This can be replaced with the right tools and low melt solder to remove the connector and replace.

    Best method to disconnect battery is to carefully lift the logic board near the battery connector enough to slip a piece of thin plastic or paper between the batter connector and the logic board battery connector and pins.

    Failing to isolate battery so can result in blown back light or touch filters or diodes in backlight circuit.

    At the very least run down the battery flat prior to repair but you are really best to isolate battery.

    markduff - 回复

    From a repair point of view. This connector is a royal pain. For assembly it's great, well, nearly great.

    This connector is SOLDERED to the motherboard side. Never lever this on the motherboard side, I will call it the right hand side. It will break leaving it's soldered pins behind. Yes I did it.

    The pins, on the battery side of this connector, just rest on the batteries plated pads. They are kept under tension by the screw. It should be noted though that removal of the screw will not disconnect the connector pins from the battery pads. Natural tension is still present.

    I suggest strongly that you take a look at the battery connector online to see the nature of the pins and you will see that some are quite delicate.

    The tools purpose is to raise the battery side of the connector ; the left side, so there is some clearance between the pins and the batteries pads. If you have seen a picture of this connector then you will realise the potential of damage to this connector and will have a better idea of what to do.

    Biskwit2 - 回复


    Lifting the connector and simultaneously sliding a thin piece of card or plastic under the pins should be done carefully. In fact, to minimise damage I just slid it under ONE of the main battery pins, plus or minus, which are in the middle and quite robust compared with the tiddlers on the side of the connector.

    The second point, the battery and the motherboard have protection circuitry. When I broke my connector the battery dropped to 0.5V at the terminals. Connecting the charger, when all the connections were sound and not shorted raised it from the dead back to over 3.2V

    Biskwit2 - 回复

    I replaced the battery, and got things hooked backup. For the test, the screen came on, digitizer seemed to be functioning fine. But I couldn’t get it to charge. I used the i-fixit battery blocker by using my spooger to put a little up pressure on the board, and then sliding the blocker in. I don’t think I damaged the pins, but its possible. This is a friends ipad, and its obviously been dropped a few times. I started eye balling the charging port, it LOOKS ok, but looks can be deceiving. When plugged in, even trying different cables, the ipad is not showing the charging symbol. Some of the comments here seem to imply, if I damaged the battery connection pins, I would still get a charging symbol. My question is, if I damaged those battery connector pins, would the ipad show the charging icon or not? Should I be looking at replacing the charging port?

    Mike Lindsay - 回复

  36. 取下3个显示排线支架上的1.4 mm Phillips #000 螺丝。
    • 取下3个显示排线支架上的1.4 mm Phillips #000 螺丝。

    Be careful when re-installing screws on reassembly. I mistakenly put the longer screw from the battery connector in the outboard hole, and wound up twisting off the lug that is only lightly soldered to the metal below. Still have 2 screws and system seems to work fine.

    Brian Anderson - 回复

  37. 使用撬棒扁平一段来将支架从逻辑板上撬起。 显示屏的排线就在支架下方,因此请勿将撬棒深入过深,这样可能会损坏排线。
    • 使用撬棒扁平一段来将支架从逻辑板上撬起。

    • 显示屏的排线就在支架下方,因此请勿将撬棒深入过深,这样可能会损坏排线。

    bough my digitizer from ebay and have everything done up to this step. The screwdriver the kit came with said to be a #000 but it stripped the screw on the plate... I have tried rubber bands, tape and paper to no avail...anyone got an idea on how to remove the screw. Also I am currently studying in St. Kitts and they lack some products found in the US.

    originalpaintballpanda2 - 回复

    I'm sure you've moved past this by now, but I've had some success with stripped screws using a comparable, if slightly larger flathead screwdriver. The screwdrivers that come in those kits tend to suck quite a lot... iFixit actually has a guide for stripped screws: 如何卸下滑丝的螺丝

    goodcyning -

    Does anyone know where I could purchase a replacement display cable bracket?

    gwarren - 回复

    Note:Be rly carefule with unplugin homebutton-connection.

    The plug-connection (Homebutton) is not similar to the plug connections the basic-plugs got.

    The homeputton-plug-connection is sensetiv and cant unplug easly.

    IPad - 回复

  38. 取下LCD显示屏。
    • 取下LCD显示屏。

    Andddddd continue this iFix folks! It's not a matter of working backwards. Most people must have cracked screens and end up having to rip the screen off and won't have a chance to inspect connections.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    He is far from complete…..if lcd is being replaced its probably because top screen is busted too. He didn’t show anything about how to remove the cables for that.

    B. A. Computer Services - 回复

    If the battery blocking method is outdated and dangerous, why not show us the new, safer method? Just a thought.

    hdrjunkie - 回复

  39. 拆下覆盖home键带状电缆连接器的任何胶带。 拆下覆盖home键带状电缆连接器的任何胶带。
    • 拆下覆盖home键带状电缆连接器的任何胶带。

    I totally skipped steps 39-98 I didn’t see any need to remove all these components and the logic board just to get the battery out. I gently pried up the board where the battery connector goes in, slipped it out, and slipped in the new one.

    Seth Childers - 回复

    That is a great tip. There is plenty of space inside the case to lever out the battery without taking out all of the components. I laid the iPad on top of a large bean bag, heated for 3 minutes in the microwave. After 4-5 minutes, I was able to lever out the battery with the spudger and the credit cards. It came out after a few minutes of careful levering and cramming the credit cards under the battery. I unscrewed the earphone connector and carefully taped it back to the iPad housing with paint tape to have more room to maneuver.

    Jonathan Koehler -

    I second this.

    Just be careful to make sure you don’t squish or tear any wires or anything else surrounding when you’re fighting with the batteries, and it’s still way easier than removing everything else in there first.

    I’ll add one bit, though. The hole in the battery connector that accepts the screw through the logic board also apparently slips over a pin in which the screw seats. I couldn’t see that. So when I got the last bit of battery adhesive to let go, the pin tore out the battery connector hole. Since I was replacing the battery, it wasn’t a problem, but did produce a little conductive piece that I had to fish out before putting anything back together. Wouldn’t want that little torn out piece running around in there to short something out later.

    Also, that pin will locate the battery correctly, so that in one of the last steps of reassembly, the battery connection screws together properly. Make sure you find it before the battery adhesive grabs on to the back of the case.

    Tim -

    Careful removing the tape. The home button has a zif connector and if you aren’t careful the tape can rip the zif flap right off. You might have to hold it down while you pull it off or pull the tape from a different direction to make sure you dont tear the zif tab off.

    Sarah Ybarra - 回复

  40. 使用撬棒的扁平端将home键带状电缆ZIF连接器向上翻转。 小心地把home键带状线缆从ZIF连接器中拉出来 小心地把home键带状线缆从ZIF连接器中拉出来
    • 使用撬棒的扁平端将home键带状电缆ZIF连接器向上翻转。

    • 小心地把home键带状线缆从ZIF连接器中拉出来

    I got through the repair, only to have the new screen give me problems that I can not find solutions to any where. The digitizer is working on its own without my input, it will start apps, switch windows, etc. I have pulled up the new screen and checked my ribbons and cables seem to be fine. ANY IDEAS??

    Moses Roman - 回复

    Moses Roman

    Same exact problem that I have. I think it has something to do with the glass touching the ipad. Something like on the iPad mini, where you had to cover some areas beside the home button.

    I would love to see a real solution, as im stuck with unhappy customers and frustrated me :)

    Bilal Kinali - 回复

    I had mine replaced TWICE by a local repair shop. Soon noticed both times that the iPad would soon go haywire after a few minutes use with random clicks, ghost typing, opening apps, etc.

    The iPad Air's such a poor quality, un-durable product anyway. I only had my screen replaced in the first place because it cracked with no apparent drop or trauma and Apple wouldn't replace.

    daviddesignbristol - 回复

    I have also the same issue, does anyone know what the problem is?

    Please give us some feedback.

    Elektromic - 回复

    Have seen this with multiple repairs where the digitizer was replaced. In each case it was a problem with the digitizer cables where it gets tucked under the glass near the edge of the frame. Not yet sure if they are badly made digitizers or if the cable gets damaged trying to tuck it under frame during installation.

    RayM - 回复

    To avoid the digi sending the ipad crazy. In the same way you tape the copper/silver edges on the back of the glass for the iPad Mini. You tape all the way around, making sure not to dirty the protective cover when placing back down after taping one edge.

    Make sure all the metal surround is cover by tape, but careful not too go over the edges too much. It will be visible when using the device.

    Like i said earlier, the real skill is not too dirty the screen when lifting the protective sheet.

    Have fun!

    Josh - 回复

    Thanks man, I'll give it a try. Any idea what kind of tape should I buy?

    Luis Tamborrell -

    Kapton tape otherwise known as heat tape or polyamide tape

    Neil Davis -

    Just fitted the screen, the digitizer works, display all good but I had a message saying I could not use touch ID and the home button doesn’t work at all…is this expected?

    Paul Kelly - 回复

    I break the ZIF connector. Is tat touch connecter.?

    aiyathurai Aathee - 回复

    How do you take the ribbon cable off from the home button site???

    BP Thompson - 回复

    Pull the ribbon horizontally out, not up

    Rusty - 回复

  41. 使用撬棒的扁平端或指甲将两个数字转换器电缆连接器从它们的插座中直接弹出。 为了避免损坏iPad,只能在连接器上撬动,而不能翘逻辑板上的插座。 为了避免损坏iPad,只能在连接器上撬动,而不能翘逻辑板上的插座。
    • 使用撬棒的扁平端或指甲将两个数字转换器电缆连接器从它们的插座中直接弹出。

    • 为了避免损坏iPad,只能在连接器上撬动,而不能翘逻辑板上的插座。

    What are those connectors for because i kinda half broke the left one on the screen on the glass frame and now the lcd wont turn on

    SuperCow_man - 回复

  42. 小心地将被粘合剂固定到后壳上的home键带状连接线缆剥下。 小心地将被粘合剂固定到后壳上的home键带状连接线缆剥下。
    • 小心地将被粘合剂固定到后壳上的home键带状连接线缆剥下。

    THIS PICTURE IS PERFECT AND PERTANANT TO THE NEXT STEP REGARDING “GHOST OR PHANTOM TOUCH” - See that foam around the edges? For some reason, the ifixit replacement digitizer doesn’t come with it (but it does come with new adhesive applied already.) With your screen, also purchase their “tesa tape” : Tesa 61395 Tape / 4 mm - it comes in different widths fyi. I choose 4mm as advised by a staff member.

    scottgogos - 回复

    On the replacement screen I received from you, the home screen ribbon cable does not fully seat inside the Zif connector like the original and will not lock in place as a result. It seems too fat. Any tips to make it work?

    Greg DeCelle - 回复

    I can’t think of any reason for that other than it’s the wrong display for your model, or it’s defective. Double-check the model very carefully and make sure you ordered/received a compatible part. If you ordered from iFixit, contact customer support directly for returns or exchanges. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I didn’t receive any of the two sided tape…I assume it needed to be ordered separately??

    So, when I removed the glass, the bottom cable tore and I have to replace it. The video is not as clear regarding replacement. The old button had a round rubber gasket but the new one does not. No inst. how to re-use it. I can’t attach and keep in place the new button.

    Michael Goss - 回复

    In a previous repair, i broke the zif, what you want to do is hold it down while removing the tape, otherwise it will pull the parts up with it.

    Since it was broke i put a piece of electrical tape on top for the pressure the zif would push down, then another piece from the screw hole to the bend in the cable, so it does not come loose when putting back together.

    Neil Rogers - 回复

    • 移除前面板组件

    • 在组装过程中,擦拭前面板组件上任何的灰尘和指纹,确保显示屏干净。

    • 如果您的新屏幕遇到“幽灵”或“幻影”触摸输入问题,可以通过在面板背面的标注区域粘贴一层非常薄的绝缘胶带,例如Kapton (聚酰亚胺)胶带,来解决这个问题。 iFixit面板具有良好的绝缘性,不需要粘贴任何胶带。

    • 若无适当的绝缘措施,数字转换器的这些区域可能会与其他组件接地,导致触摸输入故障。

    • 这些绝缘材料是肉眼不可见的,这与许多iPad上的泡沫防尘条不同。

    In your conclusion, which doesn't have a comments area, you say to reverse the procedure - simple enough, BUT what about the sticky adhesive residue along the edges of the (a) the just-remove-glass (if re-using) and (b) along the 'inside' edges of the iPad chassis? Typically Apple says to remove the adhesive residue (careful) with alcohol wipes (lint free & 98% isopropyl). Thanks for the instructions!

    Joe Kazura - 回复

    the hardest part of this repair for me is actually aligning the ribbons (especially on the aftermarket version) so they don't jumble and cause the glass to mush away from the adhesive leaving a gap. Would would be very helpful to see how to fold the ribbon cables back on the aftermarket digitizers. They are slightly different than the originals, or at least they appear different. This repair is super useful but we could really use a step 44 because re-assembly has a sequence and a folding technique.

    TJ Hellmuth - 回复

    The ribbon cable is a little tricky to figure out. But if you look closely at the old ( Broken) screen you will see they stick to the underside of the screen thin the remaining ribbon slides down into the ipad between the display and ipads frame.

    I used a heat gun and suction cups to loosen screen.

    This was a very good ifix ii

    Rowell - 回复

    Reassemble huh? What about how to move the home button to the new panel?

    xsubguy - 回复

    This is what I need too!

    Sarah Ybarra -

    It is not as simple as reverse disassembly steps, the ribbon cables need to be tucked into the pocket on the side of the iPad. There is tape on them that has to adhere to the side of the digitizer too. Mine did not make it all the way down into the gap, and stuck on the other adhesive, now I have a gap by these two cables. To tuck these into this area is difficult at best. I now need to remove the glass, hoping it does not shatter and purchase more tape.

    Other than this the task was not bad.. BTW: YES People use the capton tape

    Randall Hooper - 回复

    I’ve read that people are putting glue at each corner. I haven’t figured out what glue. One person said Glue Dot 1” 16lb, another said rubber cement, 1 video shows 5 min epoxy… Heard that some sort of glue (not super glue) needs to be used to avoid the glass lifting later on. And to use 3m red tape along the edges. I’ve been searching for which glue because I still have an ipad air to do screen replacement on.

    tsolorio - 回复

    Would be helpful if the tape were listed in the master supplies for the guide. I got the whole kit overnighted, but then had to wait a week to get the tape from Amazon (since I wasn’t going to shell out another $50 for overnight shipping). Otherwise, it’d be nice to know if the displays through iFix it included the foam or not—mine didn’t.

    Micah Sledge - 回复

    Second the concern about the foam. I bought the full repair kit, but was surprised there wasn’t already polyimide tape on the digitizer or in the kit. At least mention that it needs to be purchased extra.

    Ronny Barlow - 回复

    @baron9 The displays we sell have the proper insulation and don’t require any tape. That note is more for folks who use our guides while buying the parts from somewhere else. (They tend to complain here, even though it’s the part that’s at fault, not the guide.) I’ve updated the instructions to try to make things a little more clear. Sorry about that!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    what is the difference between the right and left antenna?. My right antenna is damage and cant find a replacement. Can I use only the left one?

    Daniel C - 回复

    I did not realize that aftermarket screens (besides the one ifixit sells) do not come with adhesive strips. Well worth the time to figure out what kind of adhesive you’re going to use to re-adhere the glass before you begin. Stopping while you’re so close to the end of the repair (or having to open the ipad up again after the screen doesn’t stick back down) is slightly frustrating.

    Robert - 回复

    Thank you for your guide, it helped me fix my son’s iPad!

    Bill - 回复

    Just wanna say thank you. I replaced my LCD and digitizer today…. took a LOT longer to get that adhesive off than I expected. And the IOpener busted in my microwave despite following all directions (eg only 30 sec at a time, out for at least 10 min before reheating. So that sucked. Turns out the rice in a sock worked pretty well too.

    GC Mitts - 回复

    Regarding assembly: even with carefully tucking the ribbon cables down the side while reassembling, it’s still hard to get that area to stick down.

    Gary Wolfe - 回复

  43. 轻轻地从前面板背面剥下Home 键连接线缆。 继续剥到电缆上的金属屏蔽层。 继续剥到电缆上的金属屏蔽层。
    • 轻轻地从前面板背面剥下Home 键连接线缆。

    • 继续剥到电缆上的金属屏蔽层。

    START using extreme caution at this point. This ribbon IS VERY FRAGILE, especially after the silver rectangle/shield. That gold piece is attached to the cable.

    Jennifer Altamirano - 回复

  44. 在金属屏蔽罩和前面板之间插入拨片,然后从数字转换器中轻轻地撬出线缆。 在金属屏蔽罩和前面板之间插入拨片,然后从数字转换器中轻轻地撬出线缆。
    • 在金属屏蔽罩和前面板之间插入拨片,然后从数字转换器中轻轻地撬出线缆。

    I lifted the metal shield from the outside edge so not to tear the ribbon cable. I think I even used the razor blade (the tool of last resort).

    Robin - 回复

  45. 轻轻地从Home 键托架上剥下金属触点。 轻轻地从Home 键托架上剥下金属触点。
    • 轻轻地从Home 键托架上剥下金属触点。

    I ripped the ribbon cable out of the button at this step… be extremely gentle!

    James - 回复

    So what exactly does this metal contact do? Can the HB work without that single gold contact?

    Perrin Aybara - 回复

    Can anyone answer this question? The gold metal rectangle contact ripped off even horizontally with the rest of the home button cable. Do I need to order a whole new home button with cable? Or will I at least get functionality from the home button, only missing that little gold rectangle ?

    PC Ops -

    Thank you for showing the bracket up close!

    Dvi - 回复

    EXTREME CAUTION!!! The little metal contact is very fragile. I ripped mine off. Well, when I say ripped I mean I breathed on it.

    I would suggest maybe warming that part up before pulling and don’t just pull up from the main ribbon. Work it slowly.

    David Raines - 回复

    CAUTION!!! that little gold contact got me too!! Please update the instructions to include this.

    Jennifer Altamirano - 回复

    Did you find out if the home button still works without the rectangular gold contact?

    PC Ops -

    I wish I didn’t peel this last piece off, I don’t think you need to. It seems to be what keeps the bracket lined up over the button. Now I have to try to glue it back on perfectly so the bracket is centered over the home button.

    Robin - 回复

  46. 使用塑料撬棒从前面板背面撬开Home 键托架。 当重新连接Home 键托架时,请使用一点粘合剂或双面胶将托架固定到位。 将Home 键的一侧分开后,牢牢抓住托架并将其从前面板上剥下。
    • 使用塑料撬棒从前面板背面撬开Home 键托架。

    • 当重新连接Home 键托架时,请使用一点粘合剂或双面胶将托架固定到位。

    • 将Home 键的一侧分开后,牢牢抓住托架并将其从前面板上剥下。

    I'd recommend using something stronger than double sided tape. I completed this whole repair without too much lasting trouble, but the biggest issue was I didn’t get the home bracket secured firmly enough. A few weeks after the repair, the home button got pressed in and lodged under the hole cut for it, so I can’t unlock my iPad at all (the home button can’t be “pressed” in its current state). So I’m ordering a second screen and have to go through everything again. This time I’m using super glue to get that thing welded on there. If anything breaks in the future, I’m just getting a new iPad.

    Micah Sledge - 回复

    I had this problem too. Very frustrating. Not sure what I’d do to fix this. If you are repairing this for someone else, then super glue would not be the best option.

    MYMS! - 回复

    I don’t see why iFixit does not simply sell an optional iPad screen with a new home button pre-installed - other competing companies do it, and with iFixit’s pro reputation, having a pre-installed option would certainly be an excellent sales option. My 2¢ worth.

    dlcatftwin - 回复

    The home button that came with your iPad is the only one that will allow touchID to function. This is why this must be migrated from the old to the new screen. Of course, if your iPad does not have touchID, this is not a concern.

    Robert -


    I found it to be simpler by using the same pry tool shown in the image and pry the tab furthest from the flex cable. Its an easy start knowing that if you damage the cable you can loose Touch ID permanently.

    My steps were basically as follows in this specific order:

    1. Using a guitar pick, release the cable from the adhesive and SLOWLY lift up the cable and the components with it

    2. Once you reach the tabs that hold the home button in place, pry the tab furthest from the flex cable (this requires a little more force)

    3. Once the tab furthest from the home button is lifted away, you can hold on to the metal piece (The whole tab) and lift it away safely.

    4. Using your finger, press in the home button to release it from the glass and your done.

    Narayan Ramcharitar - 回复

    After replacement m home button works fine, but it’s very loose in the housing. I can tip it around by moving my fingers to the edges. Any ideas what I did wrong?

    Mike van Grunsven - 回复

    I had to use far more pressure to remove the bracket than I was comfortable with and when it came loose it went flying. Re-attaching is easy, but I used some hobby glue to secure it in place, so if the screen breaks again, that part is NOT coming off again. I’m guessing because I did this I don’t have the “depressed” issues that others have described, it seems to be like new at this point.

    David Yutzy - 回复

    I agree, the bracket needs glueing when refitting. Replaced the glass on my iPad and after a couple of days the home button came loose and stopped working. Now i just broke the glass when opening the iPad to fix the home button bracket. I love my life! :-)

    Mats Fredholm - 回复

  47. 按下数模转换器外侧的Home 键,将粘合剂固定到位。 缓缓用力。有粘合剂附着在易撕裂的精密的垫片上。
    • 按下数模转换器外侧的Home 键,将粘合剂固定到位。

    • 缓缓用力。有粘合剂附着在易撕裂的精密的垫片上。

    Are these last several steps necessary in just replacing the front glass panel that is cracked? my ipad is a wi-fi only

    Joe Hall - 回复

    Yes, even if you’re only replacing the front glass panel, you still have to transfer your original home button from the old panel to the replacement. Even if the new panel comes with a new home button, Touch ID will only work with the original home button.

    Adam O'Camb -

    Buy an extra home button adhesive gasket. The adhesive from the original will not be reusable

    John Marx - 回复

    I second this advice. I skipped it the first time, and the home button was too wiggly (although it worked). Now that I’ve replaced the screen a 2nd time (ugh), this time adding a new gasket, it’s a bit more firm, but still more wiggly than originally. If you don’t mind the button being lose, you probably can reuse the gasket, but if I have to do this again, I’ll probably get another gasket.

    Gary Wolfe -

    Yep, tore mine even as delicate as could be. I would highly recommend hitting the home button with a heat gun prior to attempting to remove. On the plus side, the replacement gaskets are cheap and easy enough to replace.

    Kevin Chatterton II - 回复

    Notice the sharp crease in the ribbon cable near the home button? I thought I bent it at some point but it was already there.

    Robin - 回复

  48. 取出Home 键组件。
    • 取出Home 键组件。

    Be very careful !!!!

    Easy Repair - 回复

    I did a screen replacement and it’s impossible to place the home button bracket in the correct position, now the home button doesn’t click anymore. Works, but you have to press harder.

    fjaroski - 回复

    Given the delicacy of this stage, I believe it behooves iFixit to offer a panel replacement option with a new Home button pre-installed.

    Others do; with iFixit’s reputation, such a purchase option would be a welcome, stellar addition to its inventory. Yes, you would have to cancel your Touch-ID setting prior to repair, but that’s a small inconvenience to having to negotiate such a procedure. My 2¢ worth.

    Thanks, iFixit, for the excellent instructions

    dlcatftwin - 回复

    I second this - tore the home button cable during disassembly and ordered another home button assembly just to figure out that I need the gasket and holder as well as it was not included. -

    Michael Berneis -

    Yes - the metal contact on the home button tore… now I have to figure out how to do another repair. Also, my replacement screen comes with plastic on both sides and multiple tabs in different colors. Now I’m too scared to remove those for fear of ripping something.. you should have glass replace directions here too.

    Anu Anand - 回复

    Hi sir

    Iam try replace ditigizer on iPad 6th gen

    Will my home button and finger print if I replace the home to another the home button will if I buy it from you guys

    John Clark - 回复

    replaced the display with new home button assembly, new gasket, and holder - button works but fingerprint sensor not anymore - It would be great to have detailed instructions for the complete the home button assembly with all the different parts, not only the teardown for reference. - i.e. it seems you need to push the button through the gasket before assembly so the cable leaves inside and the order is glass-button-gasket-holder.

    Michael Berneis - 回复

    The article explicitly states that the Home Button and the Motherboard are a BONDED PAIR. If you replace one without the other, Touch ID will stop working. This is why the instruction say you have to retain the button.

    Matt Spriggs - 回复

    While I’m a fairly tech savvy person, telling people to reverse the steps is ridiculous—you need to show people what to expect. Second, include the home button on the new screen sale. I’m in the middle of the repair at this point, I’ve given you $100 and this seriously frustrating, especially when the home button you sell (which I had to buy after the screen, because I inadvertently tore off a bit) DOESN”T include the proper adhesive. PS—trying to get the adhesive on the new button is a practice in torture.

    Jennifer Altamirano - 回复

    Now the adhesive ring in on the old glass and rips apart if you pull it off. I think you don’t need the adhesive ring but it keeps the button splash proof. I am going to use tiny amounts of glue but all the more reason to buy a new assy just for that ring.

    Robin - 回复

    I had to notch out the glass adhesive just slightly where bottom right corner of the home button bracket sits against it. It is curved and needed to be squared off to match the bracket. I held the ribbon cable, button and bracket in place with tape before I glued the bracket. I also used a flashlight behind the bracket and button gap to see that the bump on the bracket was lined up with the button’s switch.

    Robin - 回复

    I'm quite disappointed the fact that this is a replacement guide but does not include re-assembly steps.

    We ordered a new home button and gasket for an iPad 5, which works with the iPad 6 home button as well.

    Neither guide has re-assembly instructions for the home button.

    My customer service is important and I would like to see better guides that include disassembly and reassembly steps.

    I need to know how to properly apply a home button gasket to the home button.

    If I am missing something, please let me know.

    PS. It's not good practice to use metal tools so close to the main board. An insolated pair would be more ideal.

    Will Helbing - 回复

    The small black dot on the home button microswitch comes off no matter how careful you are. Home button will not work properly if you loose the black dot. I have done 5-6 repairs and on 4 of them the black dot just fell off. I have been successful using a small piece of Kapton tape and reinstalling the black dot in the center of the home button microswitch.

    tomgeorge - 回复

    I also removed a metal ring that sits between the gasket and the glass. It has the same shape of the gasket, and it’s glued to the glass after removing the home button assembly. Used a thin double-sided tape with strong glue when reassembling; maybe B7000 glue would be easier.

    Andre Saito - 回复






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Why is the 1st Gen iPad being shown in a 5th Gen tear down? Is it exactly the same minus the Touch ID home button?

Tim - 回复

The 1st Gen iPad Air and iPad 5th Gen are virtually the same minus the touch ID

Trevor Brodie - 回复

Will the fifth generation of iPad liquid crystal cover the sixth generation?

cscs6938 - 回复

Excellent tutorial! Precise, well written, and great pictures.

Eric Fassnacht - 回复

OK so this might be nitpicking, repair was successful. Doing the process in reverse order, not quite accurate. The reverse order does not take into account the various shield plastic covers applied to keep everything clean. After you’ve re-installed the connectors and the various cables and installed the LCD. be sure to clean that puppy thoroughly under a bright light. I missed a tiny smudge at the bottom edge and it’s driving me nuts. The new digitizer cables are quite stiff and it takes some effort to get them in position without getting your fingers stuck to the adhesive while you’re working. The adhesive cover strip on the side of the cables is a bit tricky to remove as it is hindered by the conncted cables. Removing it first makes manipulating the digitizer assembly digfficult without messing up the adhesive. If you dont get the cables tucked away well the screen wont keep that edge down. Great teardown guide but the reassembly could use a few steps or just a note about tricks to get it done smoothly.

Michael King - 回复

I’ll second this. Some additional detail on this part of the reassembly would help immensely.

cskellum4 -

Agreed. This should be mentioned, I had the same issue.

Robert -

Some important things to do before and during re-assembly with a new digitizer:

1. Clean out ALL remaining glue/duct tape from the frame (I use a cotton swab and some gasoline)!

2. Check for sufficient duct tape on your new digitizer

3. Check to sufficiently insulate the conductor tracks (the bronze lining) on your new digitizer or you’ll most likely have ghost movements after re-assembly. E.g. insulation tape

4. Keep some super glue gel (NOT the liquid - use the GEL) ready and apply some shortly before re-assambly on the right side of the frame where the cables connect the digitizer to the Logicboard => The tape area is most likely too small on this edge to create an efficient enough bonding. The stiff cables often push the digitizer from the inside. To be safe so your new glas wont lift up, apply the superglue gel in this area.

5. After re-assembly heat the frame along the edges with a heatgun and use clips to hold the glas down with some pressure. Let it cool out with the clips on so the glue/tape bonds nicely.

Tristan Falkner - 回复

Anybody using super glue on their repairs needs to have their hands slapped… If the mounting surfaces are properly cleaned, prepped and primed, the original style adhesive will bond the screen to the housing adequately. When super glue is used, it contaminates the mounting surface, preventing the adhesive to bond properly on any future repairs where the tech wants to do the repair properly. To prevent lifting near the flex cable, manipulate the thick part of flex so that it is curled in a bit - this will allow the flex to slide into its given area and prevent it from pushing up on the glass and breaking the adhesive bond.

Kevin - 回复

Can we confirm that if we must replace the home button assembly we will lose some functionality on this device?

Kyle - 回复

Excellent tutoriel. Tout est expliqué TRÈS précisément, étape par étape. Mon chien avait explosé l’écran en milliers de paillettes . Le démontage m’a pris 3 heures en prenant mon temps et en étant extrêmement minutieux. Une lampe grossissante du type qu’utilise les pêcheurs à la mouche en montage est un vrai plus. L’avantage de ce tutoriel, c’est qu’il explique par très petites étapes et plein de photos précises et riches en renseignements, le mode opératoire sans rien oublier. Les mêmes peuvent donc servir pour le montage et le démontage. Un conseil, tester l'écran avant de le coller car emporter dans l’action, je l’ai fait. Il a fallu que je le décolle à nouveau pour vérifier d’ou venait le souci. En conclusion, de tous les tutoriels que j’ai pu utilisés jusqu’à aujourd’hui, c’est le mieux détaillé et le plus précis. Félicitations à son Créateur avec un grand C.

Nathalie Battut - 回复

“To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order” is the kind of cop-out you’d find in a Chilton’s or Haynes auto repair manual, and not the exact methods and procedures, including tips for tucking tricky ribbon cables, that you’d find in a service or technical manual.

Scott S - 回复

I have white lines at the top of my screen following reassembly. I think these come from the LCD. Is there a fix?

fiona_hodkinson - 回复


Huh…. this is a headache….

Because I didn’t know that I need the original Home button somehow I damaged it.

So… somebody could tell me, what is my solution in my case, please?

As I see, I can’t buy a home button from 3rd parties with the Touch ID?

Is that correct?

Option 1 To buy it somewhere.

If not somebody could share where I can buy it, please.

Option 2 To get it maybe from an iPad that not working or as we knew it iPad for parts.

If yes, from which iPad i can take it? For sure 5th which other iPad have the same part as in the iPad 5 gen?

Vinnie - 回复

-Great tutorial - took about 2.5 hours and works great.

-For those of you with a very cracked digitizer or one on which the suction cup otherwise won’t work (like mine), these are my suggestions:

1) cover the glass with clear packing tape so shards don’t get everywhere 2) heat up as directed, 3) use an xacto knife or razor blade to get under the edge of the glass in the spots directed for the pick, pry up with the knife, and put the pick in. Proceed as directed from there. In the “safe areas” you can use the knife to cut the adhesive as well, as an #11 xacto blade isn’t long enough to penetrate beyond the bezel.

-Getting the connectors reseated was the most nerve wracking part - they are hard to line up without any reference.

-The iFixit screen replacement has clear plastic tabs to remove. The order these should be removed in was not clear.

-The digitizer cables tend to get bunched under the right side of the digitizer, try to get these folded down and flattened before the final assembly.

richardeburgess - 回复

Worked well for me.

zachary stertz - 回复

Great tutorial. Not as hard as I thought it would be. I used a hairdryer as heat. I should have coughed up a few more bucks for the iopener. I had no luck with using tape to get suction on a cracked screen like I have done successfully on an iPhone. After a ton of heat I used a razor blade to peel up the digitizer edge and go from there with picks. You should also wear safety glasses as chips flew everywhere.

The worst part was cleaning the old glue and cleaning the screen before installing the new digitizer. Also those antennas at the bottom of the iPad are a bit fragile. I did not touch them with picks but I did damage one during cleaning of old adhesive. Seems to work fine though.

EDIT - I agree the guide could have used some tips for reassembly. The ribbon cables are a bit tricky to get folded in there and the adhesive complicated things. Also there is a clear protector on the inside of the digitizer.

ejmutnan - 回复

What a waste of time and money. Had to break so much of it just to get the shattered glass out. Made everything worse. Had to do a separate order to get a new home button. Should have just got it repaired by someone. I Probably made it worse.

David Nerenberg -