简介

按照步骤来替换掉iPad的玻璃面板和集成部件。

  1. 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。
    • 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。

    • 把iOpener放在微波炉中间 。

      • 对于旋转式微波炉:确保盘子可以自由旋转。如果你的iOpener卡住了,它可能会过热并燃烧

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - 回复

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 回复

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 回复

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 回复

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - 回复

    I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

    putinaspiliponis - 回复

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 回复

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 回复

    I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

    Sherry Carew - 回复

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - 回复

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

    Regards,

    Cedric

    Cedric VINCENT - 回复

  2. 加热iOpener三十秒
    • 加热iOpener三十秒

    • 贯穿整个维修过程,如果iOpener 冷却了,在微波炉中每次重新加热额外的三十秒。

    • 注意在维修过程中不要过度加热iOpener,过热可能会导致iOpener爆炸。

    • 如果出现膨胀千万不要碰iOpener。

    • 如果iOpener中间部分依然烫的没法碰,请等待冷却后再加热,一个加热好的iOpener 应该可以保持热度十分钟

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - 回复

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 回复

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 回复

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - 回复

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - 回复

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - 回复

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - 回复

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - 回复

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - 回复

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 回复

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 回复

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 回复

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 回复

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - 回复

    • 把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来,捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个避免碰到中心热的部分。

    • iOpener会非常烫,所以拿着它的时候千万要小心。必要的时候可以使用烤箱手套。

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - 回复

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - 回复

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 回复

    • 如果您的显示屏玻璃已经碎裂,防止显示屏玻璃在您维修时进一步伤害您,请使用胶带来固定已经碎裂的屏幕。

    • 给iPad 的正面整面贴上胶带。

      • 这一步将保证在您翘起和移除显示屏时能够保持完整。

    • 尽量根据下面的指南进行操作。但,一旦玻璃破碎,请停下拆解并使用金属撬刀撬出玻璃,避免更多的碎裂。

    • 戴上安全眼镜来保护你的眼睛。 小心操作不要损坏了LCD内屏。

    If you add clear packaging tape, it will create bubbles and the suction cup will become inefficient. To me it was impossible to remove the glass with the suction cup. Since the glass was very cracked, I had to resort to some tweaking with strong tape and pull the this off.

    jfmartin67 - 回复

    If your screen is significantly cracked to the left edge, abandon this entire setup, prepare yourself for a 5-6 hour repair, expect a lot of patience, a lot of cursing and some good old American ingenuity. The suction cup and picks will not work. You have to carefully crack the glass yourself (w/out damaging the panel underneath and carefully pull it apart from the inside to the outside edges. Use a hairdryer to soften the glue under the cracked panel along the edges. Then use an exacto-knife to separate the pieces of the glued panel from the frame body, all the way around the device. Watch out for the home button ribbon connector when using the exacto-knife. There will be glue residue left over, carefully apply some goo-gone to a small area of a paper towel and wipe gently around the frame body to loosen the glue. Then use the plastic spudger tool to scrape off the excess glue.

    The iPad repair is VERY difficult. If you are a working adult, hire a pro. This is not for the faint of heart.

    aaroncope - 回复

    The hairdryer option was way faster and easier than the iOpener. Be VERY careful not to damage the LCD- one small mistake will cost you an extra $100!

    Mike Martin -

    If your digitizer is shattered, the tape will help, but you’re going to need extra picks. Or a razor blade. See below.

    Blair Miller - 回复

    Friendly observation that the image on this step is actually of an older ipad model as the side bezels are far too big. I don't know if that matters to anybody but a noob might see it and think this manual doesn't apply to them. : )

    notalawyer - 回复

    I had the same experience. My glass was cracked all the way to the left side and the suction cup would not pull the glass up. The packaging tape also didn't help. The heat caused it to lift. I finally abandoned the tape, used a heat gun aimed very carefully at each broken piece of the screen. The picks did work with patience, but I just pulled off each broken part of the glass. I also found that pulling up on one broken part while heating in front of me would let the next piece pull up. I continued heating and breaking all the way around. Do the right side last. Took about 1 hour to get it off, and another hour to clean the old glue off the frame. BTW thanks to this web site and all the comments! No way I would have done this without all the help here! I am now clean and waiting for my new digitizer. I couldn't free the battery (below), so I left it powered up, and verified it till worked before throwing away the old glass. Vince

    Vince Asbridge - 回复

    Taping with package tape doesn't work. You'll need a very large piece of tape if you go this route.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    Just finished successful repair. I would add this: most folks will be here because of cracked screen. This is not easy; believe the 'complex' rating on this repair. I put tape on my screen because it was badly cracked. This made the suction cup useless, because it just sucked the tape off the scree.n. I used the razor blade technique which worked great, it should be used in the demo, and a good blade should be in the kit.

    dale kingsbury - 回复

    • 将iOpener放置在iPad左侧。也就是Home键左侧位置。

    • 将iOpener放置至少一分钟来软化玻璃下面的粘合剂。

    The iOpener doesn't work because the heat isn't strong enough. I used a hair dryer which proved to be much more efficient.

    jfmartin67 - 回复

    The iOpener didnt work for me either. seems like it gets hot enough but it must not. I spent 30 min with the iOpener, then tried a hair dryer.

    kinchma - 回复

    “At least a minute.” Bullshit. Get the iOpener good and hot, place it on the area you’re going to work on clear side down, and cover it with a towel. Walk away for 2 minutes. Make yourself a drink — you’ll need steady hands later.

    Blair Miller - 回复

    I've done this with an iOpener and at least in my case, it worked fine. You may have to modify the heating instructions though, since not all microwaves are created equal.

    Jeff Suovanen - 回复

    ii i just did this and it took a while but i figured it out it is true this thing doesnt get hot enough BUT heat it 2 times and then the 3rd time when u place it on the ipad put the ipad box on top and then maybe a second ipad on top of the box so it kinda smashes i down but not too much for it to break and then wait for it to turn warm THEN use the succion THEN the gap appears. the glue is super strong on the ipads so yea it will take some time lol

    Joel Tyson - 回复

    Doesn't work. Perhaps include more copy on exactly how to do it?

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    The iOpener does not work. It simply it is not hard enough to soften the glue. The heat hair dryer method does not work either.

    Javier Lozada - 回复

    The goal is simply to weaken the glue enough that you can use your suction cup to open up a tiny gap under the glass, so you can insert an opening pick and slice through the adhesive. It doesn't actually take all that much heat; the picks will do most of the work once you get them in there. iOpeners, hair dryers, heat guns all work fine in my experience—the iOpener is just a bit more foolproof because it won't get hot enough to cook the display panel underneath.

    Jeff Suovanen - 回复

    • 虽然iPad看起来是一体化高度集成的,但在玻璃面板下面有许多细小的部件,避免伤害那些部件,只能加热或撬动指南内所描述到的区域。

    • 在您按照本指南操作时,请小心下述区域。

      • 前置摄像头

      • 天线

      • 显示排线

    Don't assume anything!! I thought I was pulling on the screen connector and I was pulling on an antenna component instead. Didn't ruin its connection range but I sure remember doing it and now my iPad has a little internal flaw only I'm aware of.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    • 将吸盘小心的放在刚加热的一侧中间的位置。

      • 确保吸盘已经牢牢吸住前玻璃面板。

    • 使用一只手在固定住iPad,另一只手慢慢提起吸盘,将前玻璃面板与后壳分离。

    In this picture above, the glass isn't cracked at all so it helps the suction cup to be effective as it is hermetic. With cracked display, it won't work.

    jfmartin67 - 回复

    Suction cup would not work for me. No amount of heating with iOpener or hair dryer would allow even the slightest gap to form. I ended up looking at some YouTube videos and used a razor blade. I put the razor blade perpendicular to the top glass, right at the edge of the glass and pushed down until the blade went down 1/4". Then heated some more and pried up the glass enough to put in an opening pick. I spent a lot of time working with the suction cup. Glue was just too strong.

    kinchma - 回复

    It's funny that iFixit changed the image they used. Even they themselves realized how stupid it was to try a suction cup on taped up surface. C'mon guys! You should at least make foot notes for your readers and let them know what to do if the glass is already shattered. It's a slow methodical process that involves working with a iOpener type tool. I personally have one that looks like a prison shank (lol)

    Scott S - 回复

    Not sure what you are referring to there—I see no evidence in the document history of the photos having been changed. Suction cup + packing tape can work, but it depends how badly the glass is broken and the quality of the tape. Sometimes it takes a couple attempts. You can also skip the suction cup and try using tape alone to pull on the panel, if your tape is sticky enough. There are no guarantees though, which is why we have the disclaimer right in Step 4 that the procedure can be pretty fussy if you're working with a shattered panel. Depending on where it's broken and how badly, you're going to have to improvise.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Jeff, the change is evident from image 4, where all the surface is taped up. In this picture you show a clean not broken surface and yes, the suction cup works...

    Simone Gabbriellini -

    Ah, I see what you're saying! I can understand why you guys would assume that, but in reality the entire guide was originally photographed using an intact panel. We later added a step showing how to protect yourself if you have a shattered panel (with photos to go along with, obviously). I'm afraid it wouldn't be practical to re-shoot the entire guide every time we make a small change like that.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The suction cup is useless if your glass is shattered. Use a new, sharp razor blade, and insert it vertically between the edge of the glass and the metal back of the iPad. Don’t worry about pressing too hard — there’s a lip that stops the blade from going in too far and damaging anything. You’ll probably have to do this several times, but eventually the blade will “bite” into the edge of the glass well enough for you to pry it up. Insert a pick underneath the razor, then remove the razor and continue as directed.

    Blair Miller - 回复

    After having to read several comments on this screen removal and the clear packing tape, I too have to agree that the tape method does not work well at all if your screen is already shattered. I combined several methods, with lots of patience to remove the screen on my iPad Air 2. What I found it very helpful was the heat gun used for paint removal. The heat gun generates a lot of concentrated heat at lower air velocity, unlike generic hair dryer, so you must be very careful not to ruin the electronics, and risk burning your hands and anything around it. My heat gun that I purchased from Home Depot had a nozzle to direct and focus the heat on a small area. That was helpful in working small area at a time. This method work thoroughly well.

    Taiji Saotome - 回复

    It would work if you leave iopener in microwave for 1 minute.

    Don’t trust the instruction from ifixit.

    you can put iopener in microwave for 1 minute without any harm.

    Note. you have to make sure that it is in cold position before you put it into microwave.

    phongsiri nirachornkul - 回复

    Suction cup didn’t work for me either, went the razor blade route (using an exacto knife blade) with very minimal damage to the aluminum shell. Be warned, if your screen has cracked along the edge (as it almost 100% certainly has if you’re reading this guide), the screen will continue to shatter and splinter as you make your way around the edge. That’s when having the screen taped up well will be to your advantage. There’s also a good chance you’ll have to re-insert the razor blade on the other side of a fracture and start the lifting process again, but keep going, being sure to avoid the points called out in this guide and you should be fine.

    Also, do not apply the suction cup to an area of the screen with cracks and no tape. If you’re near the edge you run the risk of brutally shattering that area of the glass if the glass gives before the suction cup.

    Micah Sledge - 回复

    In order to get this to work for me I had to heat the IOpener to over 104 C - I needed to get the screen over 40 C before the adhesive would loosen.

    Also I had to put the ipad on a towel - the granite countertop it was on was sucking the heat out too fast.

    Jack Williams - 回复

    This step was brutal on my nerves - read about too many people ruining their iOpener and I don’t have a heat gun. I had to keep heating the iOpener incrementally hoping I wouldn’t pop it. … but if you’re patient, persistent, and cautious, you can definitely tell when you’re seeing separation. The iOpener ended up being WAY hotter than 30 seconds was getting me - borderline scorching my hands.

    William Thompson - 回复

    • 在刚刚打开的缝隙处放置一个撬片。

      • 切勿将撬片插入深度超过黑色边框,这样深入过度可能会使LCD屏幕受损。

    • 然后取下吸盘。

    添加评论

    • 再次加热iOpener然后放置在刚才的位置。

      • 小心,请勿在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。 在重新加热iOpener之前请至少等待10分钟。

    This says "Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener", however the iOpener itself has a warning printed upon it that says wait at least 10 minutes. And that 10 minutes warning is also mentioned in Step 2 above.

    Scott - 回复

    Sorry about that! We fixed the text on this step. The two-minute interval was for an older version of the iOpener—the text printed on your iOpener will have the correct interval, which is indeed ten minutes. It can burst if overheated or reheated too quickly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • 沿着第一个撬片的开的口处插入另外一个翘片同时向下滑动,让撬片分离粘合剂。

    You guys really need to show how it's done when your iPad isn't perfect like the one pictured above.. C'mon..

    Scott S - 回复

    This is for BATTERY REPLACEMENT not CRACKED SCREEN REPLACEMENT!!

    Corey Barcus -

    How do you slide the picks when the glass is broken? Even with the glass taped, it pulls away from the tape rather than the housing. I've just further shattered the glass with my attempts.

    chrisweiler - 回复

    • 继续沿着下方继续滑动来将粘合剂分离。

    • 如果撬片卡住了,请沿着iPad的侧面滚动撬片,然后继续进行分离工作。

    This gives a false illusion to the difficulty of these repairs when you guys make guides using perfect devices. What about devices with dinged corners? A reader is gonna slap on a new screen and shatter it the second they apply pressure thinking it will fit into a dented corner lol

    Scott S - 回复

    • 将第一个插入iPad的撬片向上滑动到iPad的左上角

    • 撬片可能会出现图片上的情况,请不要慌张。 只需将撬片拉出一点点来继续进行维修工作。 但要避免这种情况,因为粘合剂可能会粘附在LCD显示屏上变得难以清理。

    I managed to get a couple of fingerprints on the LCD.

    What's the best way to clean 'em off?

    What's the safest way?

    Mike McIntosh - 回复

    What I’ve read, and seems to work, is gentle circular pressure with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth. Lacking that, use a TINY drop of water ON THE CLOTH, not on the LCD. Small amounts of alcohol can be used, in my experience, but only if the above don’t work, and with better results if used in small amounts and applied to the cloth, not the LCD.

    Bonnie Baxter - 回复

    • 重新加热iOpener 并将其放置在iPad顶部边缘位置且高于前置摄像头。

      • 小心,请勿在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。 在重新加热iOpener之前请至少等待10分钟。

    • 如果您有可以弯折的iOpener,您可以弯折其使其同时加热左上角边缘位置。

    添加评论

    • 在左顶部插入撬片来分离粘合剂。

    添加评论

    • 滑动撬片直到快接近前置摄像头位置时停下

    • 第三张图片展示了iPad前置摄像头的位置。

      • 避免使用撬片直接滑过前置摄像头,这样做可能会污损到摄像头。 接下来的步骤将会详细说明如何避免损伤前置摄像头。

    添加评论

  3. 传播 Fixmas 欢乐
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    传播 Fixmas 欢乐
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    • 轻轻拉出些许撬片,并沿着前置摄像头顶部位置慢慢的滑动。

    添加评论

    • 将刚才那片撬片稍微滑过前置摄像头然后放在原位不动。

    • 拿另一片撬片插入到摄像头的左侧位置然后滑动到转角位置,完成对该边缘部分的粘合剂分离工作。

    添加评论

    • 将刚才那片撬片稍微深入iPad之中,从摄像头处滑动到右上角。

    添加评论

    • 将撬片放在原位,以防粘合剂再次粘连。

    • 重新加热iOpener将其放在有锁定和音量按钮一侧。

    添加评论

    • 滑动右上角的撬片,分离那部分的粘合剂。

    • 将这个撬片就放在这,防止粘合剂重新粘连。 重新拿一个撬片来进行下一步。

    添加评论

    • 在右侧插入一个新的撬片来分离粘合剂,滑动到中部位置时停下。

    • 显示排线大约位于iPad底部到顶部一半的位置。 当您从底部向上滑动撬片大概4.5"(约11.43cm)位置时请停止滑动。

    Why there’s such an obsession with not damaging the cables is beyond me. Be careful, so as not to damage what the cables are connected to. But the cables are part of the replacement digitizer, so if you nick or even slice through them (like I did with the one closest to the bottom) don’t worry about it.

    Blair Miller - 回复

    Keep in mind that some people are here to open an intact display to replace internal components! In those cases, keeping the cables un-harmed is quite important ;)

    Sam Lionheart -

    My digitizer WAS ok and I was only replacing the battery I wasn't careful enough when coming around the side with the pics and got a hold of the cable just enough with the pic to pull it off the underside of the panel. The battery replacement went great other than now I have to replace the digitizer. :(

    BE CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP!!!

    Dylan Bouterse - 回复

    And if you are replacing the digitizer, you have to reuse the fingerprint sensor home button. I sliced through mine and now I’ll not have fingerprint sensor. Each home button is matched to the main board and if switched out you will loose that sensor ability.

    David - 回复

    • 就把撬片放在停下的位置,然后重新加热iOpener然后放置在iPad的底部。

    添加评论

    • 滑动左下边的撬片来分离粘合剂。

    • 滑动到左下角时停止滑动。 然后放置在此。

    • 第三张图片展示了在iPad 下方的2个天线和Home键

      • 接下来的步骤将会指导您如何避免伤害这些部件。 只加热和撬动指南所指示的部位。

    添加评论

    • 将原撬片放置在原位,以防粘合剂重新粘合。

    • 拿一片新的撬片,轻轻的从左天线处滑动到home键前。

      • 只能从iPad外边缘向内滑动 请勿按照相反方向滑动 这样可能会损坏天线。

      • 如果您需要再次滑动来清理粘合剂,请取出撬片然后从外边缘重新插入再向内滑动。

    • 将撬片放置不动。

    添加评论

    • 拿一片新的撬片来从刚才那片撬片右边继续滑动。

    • 滑过Home键和右侧天线。只使用尖端来去除粘合剂。

    添加评论

    • 随着粘合剂的松动,您现在可以将撬片插入右下角了。

      • 就和左侧一样,相反方向的滑动可能会损伤天线。

    I think you’re missing a step here where you explicitly direct the reader to slide the pick from the bottom right corner towards the home button.

    Fin Hirschoff - 回复

    • 重新加热iOpener 并将其放置在有音量按键的一侧。

    添加评论

    • 请小心操作本步骤。 花点时间来确保粘合剂是热并柔软的,并且您已经使用撬片打开了所有开口。 以及不要害怕停止和重新加热。

    • 在音量控制侧面相反的那一面,你应该确保那一面的每个角都已插入撬片。 旋转撬片然后轻轻提起玻璃面板,沿着显示屏排线边缘清理掉最后的粘合剂。

    • 如果在此步骤遇到很大的阻力难以撬起屏幕请重新加热iOpener 然后将其放置在难以撬起的区域。

    You will end up having to scrape the outter ledge to remove the old screen. I bled and got glass shards everywhere. Good luck!

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    • 慢慢的提起玻璃面板,来进一步分离粘合剂。

    添加评论

    • 在支起玻璃面板的同时,用撬片分离掉最后的粘合剂。

    • 一定要小心操作,不要切割或损坏任何显示排线。

    添加评论

    • 一旦粘合剂全部分离掉,就像打开书一样将玻璃面板放在工作台上。

    • 要重新组装时 使用异丙醇清理掉残留的粘合剂,并使用预切割好的粘合胶带来替代去除掉的粘合剂。

    • 再重新组装时,iPad框架和玻璃面板很容易夹住排线,请小心操作将他们轻轻折叠在框架下方,如果操作过当造成损伤那么就会超出你的维修能力。

    my replacement digitizer has rigid flex with adhesive tape where the connectors extend. how does this “fold” back inside the frame?

    David - 回复

    • 剥离固定LCD屏幕螺丝上的胶带。

    添加评论

    • 拆下固定LCD屏幕的Phillips #00螺丝。

      • 3个4.0 mm螺丝

      • 1个4.8 mm螺丝

    Use the provided replace screen case's square compartments to place your screws into as you remove them. Really helpful and you likely won't mess up.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    I tape a stripe of double sided tape on my workbench. You can place the screws on the tape on the location where the screw would be if it was in the screen assembly. In this step, your screws would be in the four corners of the tape stripe, with the longest screw (4,8mm) in the upper left corner. The other screws from the next steps can also be placed on the tape this way.

    Brecht Bocket - 回复

    • 因为LCD屏幕任然在Home键附近有许多排线与iPad Air主体相连,切勿尝试完全的将LCD屏移开。 仅可从前置摄像头尾端处抬起屏幕。

    • 使用撬棒扁平的一段来从前置摄像头一边撬起一道可以让你手指抓住LCD 屏幕的缝隙。

    • 从前置摄像头处提起iPad Air 的LCD屏幕,就像翻书一样将它翻转到Home键一侧。

      • 小心驶得万年船,切勿操之过急。在您进行翻转的时候请同时盯着LCD排线。

    • 放下LCD屏幕,以便来处理LCD的排线。

      • 请将LCD屏幕放置在柔软、干净、无绒的表面。

    Got a cracked screen from toddler stepping on the iPad. My repair went well, everything worked. Except I scratched the LCD. It seems to scratch easily.

    At this step, be careful when folding over the screen, as it may scratch on the aluminum frame (third picture). When they say “soft lint free surface” that is needed, specifically where the LCD meets the frame. Place a thin cloth like sunglass cleaning cloth over the edge of the frame.

    Cobus de Beer - 回复

    • 取下固定电池排线到逻辑板的2.3 mm Phillips #000 螺丝

    • 为了降低短路的风险,您可以使用电池隔离撬片来断开电池与逻辑板的连接。

      • 将电池隔离撬片插入电池连接部位的下方,并将其放在此位置。

    after inserting the tab between the battery, im having an issue with the battery taking a charge. charging port sees a cord plugged in, but this connection between battery and logic board is gone. any ideas?

    Matt - 回复

    Hi were u able to fix this issue? I accidentally fried out the shield that secured the battery connector..now the ipad wont turn on :(

    Drew -

    Not having the isolation pick, I used 2 thin guitar picks instead, which did the job fine.

    goodcyning - 回复

    I couldn't disconnect the battery connector - I applied some force, nothing happened and I was afraid of applying too much force - so I just left it connected and I was very careful not to short out any terminals with metal tools. I completed the repair without any other issues and the iPad now seems to be working fine.

    Peter Gray - 回复

    A little explanation here would be nice. Also, there wasn't a battery isolation pick in my kit. You should address this.

    dougintexas - 回复

    Mine was missing. Made one with scissors but still didn't do the trick. I just worked with the batteries still plugged in.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    Couldn’t get the battery terminal disconnected so I continued with repair. I didn’t short anything but now it won’t do anything. It worked before, just a cracked glass to replace. Any solutions?

    Tech-ER - 回复

    • 取下3个显示排线支架上的1.4 mm Phillips #000 螺丝。

    添加评论

    • 使用撬棒扁平一段来将支架从逻辑板上撬起。

    • 显示屏的排线就在支架下方,因此请勿将撬棒深入过深,这样可能会损坏排线。

    bough my digitizer from ebay and have everything done up to this step. The screwdriver the kit came with said to be a #000 but it stripped the screw on the plate... I have tried rubber bands, tape and paper to no avail...anyone got an idea on how to remove the screw. Also I am currently studying in St. Kitts and they lack some products found in the US.

    originalpaintballpanda2 - 回复

    I'm sure you've moved past this by now, but I've had some success with stripped screws using a comparable, if slightly larger flathead screwdriver. The screwdrivers that come in those kits tend to suck quite a lot... iFixit actually has a guide for stripped screws: 如何卸下滑丝的螺丝。

    goodcyning -

    Does anyone know where I could purchase a replacement display cable bracket?

    gwarren - 回复

    Note:Be rly carefule with unplugin homebutton-connection.

    The plug-connection (Homebutton) is not similar to the plug connections the basic-plugs got.

    The homeputton-plug-connection is sensetiv and cant unplug easly.

    IPad - 回复

    • 取下LCD显示屏。

    Andddddd continue this iFix folks! It's not a matter of working backwards. Most people must have cracked screens and end up having to rip the screen off and won't have a chance to inspect connections.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    • 拆下覆盖home键带状电缆连接器的任何胶带。

    添加评论

    • 使用撬棒的扁平端将home键带状电缆ZIF连接器向上翻转。

    • 小心地把home键带状线缆从ZIF连接器中拉出来

    I got through the repair, only to have the new screen give me problems that I can not find solutions to any where. The digitizer is working on its own without my input, it will start apps, switch windows, etc. I have pulled up the new screen and checked my ribbons and cables seem to be fine. ANY IDEAS??

    Moses Roman - 回复

    Moses Roman

    Same exact problem that I have. I think it has something to do with the glass touching the ipad. Something like on the iPad mini, where you had to cover some areas beside the home button.

    I would love to see a real solution, as im stuck with unhappy customers and frustrated me :)

    Bilal Kinali - 回复

    I had mine replaced TWICE by a local repair shop. Soon noticed both times that the iPad would soon go haywire after a few minutes use with random clicks, ghost typing, opening apps, etc.

    The iPad Air's such a poor quality, un-durable product anyway. I only had my screen replaced in the first place because it cracked with no apparent drop or trauma and Apple wouldn't replace.

    daviddesignbristol - 回复

    I have also the same issue, does anyone know what the problem is?

    Please give us some feedback.

    Elektromic - 回复

    Have seen this with multiple repairs where the digitizer was replaced. In each case it was a problem with the digitizer cables where it gets tucked under the glass near the edge of the frame. Not yet sure if they are badly made digitizers or if the cable gets damaged trying to tuck it under frame during installation.

    RayM - 回复

    To avoid the digi sending the ipad crazy. In the same way you tape the copper/silver edges on the back of the glass for the iPad Mini. You tape all the way around, making sure not to dirty the protective cover when placing back down after taping one edge.

    Make sure all the metal surround is cover by tape, but careful not too go over the edges too much. It will be visible when using the device.

    Like i said earlier, the real skill is not too dirty the screen when lifting the protective sheet.

    Have fun!

    Josh - 回复

    Thanks man, I'll give it a try. Any idea what kind of tape should I buy?

    Luis Tamborrell -

    Kapton tape otherwise known as heat tape or polyamide tape

    Neil Davis -

    • 使用撬棒的扁平端或指甲将两个数字转换器电缆连接器从它们的插座中直接弹出。

    • 为了避免损坏iPad,只能在连接器上撬动,而不能翘逻辑板上的插座。

    添加评论

    • 小心地将被粘合剂固定到后壳上的home键带状连接线缆剥下。

    THIS PICTURE IS PERFECT AND PERTANANT TO THE NEXT STEP REGARDING “GHOST OR PHANTOM TOUCH” - See that foam around the edges? For some reason, the ifixit replacement digitizer doesn’t come with it (but it does come with new adhesive applied already.) With your screen, also purchase their “tesa tape” : Tesa 61395 Tape / 4 mm - it comes in different widths fyi. I choose 4mm as advised by a staff member.

    scottgogos - 回复

    • 移除前面板组件

    • 在组装过程中,擦拭前面板组件上任何的灰尘和指纹,确保显示屏干净。

    • 如果您的新屏幕遇到“幽灵”或“幻影”触摸输入问题,可以通过在面板背面的标注区域粘贴一层非常薄的绝缘胶带,例如Kapton (聚酰亚胺)胶带,来解决这个问题。 iFixit面板具有良好的绝缘性,不需要粘贴任何胶带。

      • 若无适当的绝缘措施,数字转换器的这些区域可能会与其他组件接地,导致触摸输入故障。

      • 这些绝缘材料是肉眼不可见的,这与许多iPad上的泡沫防尘条不同。

    In your conclusion, which doesn't have a comments area, you say to reverse the procedure - simple enough, BUT what about the sticky adhesive residue along the edges of the (a) the just-remove-glass (if re-using) and (b) along the 'inside' edges of the iPad chassis? Typically Apple says to remove the adhesive residue (careful) with alcohol wipes (lint free & 98% isopropyl). Thanks for the instructions!

    Joe Kazura - 回复

    the hardest part of this repair for me is actually aligning the ribbons (especially on the aftermarket version) so they don't jumble and cause the glass to mush away from the adhesive leaving a gap. Would would be very helpful to see how to fold the ribbon cables back on the aftermarket digitizers. They are slightly different than the originals, or at least they appear different. This repair is super useful but we could really use a step 44 because re-assembly has a sequence and a folding technique.

    TJ Hellmuth - 回复

    The ribbon cable is a little tricky to figure out. But if you look closely at the old ( Broken) screen you will see they stick to the underside of the screen thin the remaining ribbon slides down into the ipad between the display and ipads frame.

    I used a heat gun and suction cups to loosen screen.

    This was a very good ifix ii

    Rowell - 回复

    Reassemble huh? What about how to move the home button to the new panel?

    xsubguy - 回复

    It is not as simple as reverse disassembly steps, the ribbon cables need to be tucked into the pocket on the side of the iPad. There is tape on them that has to adhere to the side of the digitizer too. Mine did not make it all the way down into the gap, and stuck on the other adhesive, now I have a gap by these two cables. To tuck these into this area is difficult at best. I now need to remove the glass, hoping it does not shatter and purchase more tape.

    Other than this the task was not bad.. BTW: YES People use the capton tape

    Randall Hooper - 回复

    I’ve read that people are putting glue at each corner. I haven’t figured out what glue. One person said Glue Dot 1” 16lb, another said rubber cement, 1 video shows 5 min epoxy… Heard that some sort of glue (not super glue) needs to be used to avoid the glass lifting later on. And to use 3m red tape along the edges. I’ve been searching for which glue because I still have an ipad air to do screen replacement on.

    tsolorio - 回复

    Would be helpful if the tape were listed in the master supplies for the guide. I got the whole kit overnighted, but then had to wait a week to get the tape from Amazon (since I wasn’t going to shell out another $50 for overnight shipping). Otherwise, it’d be nice to know if the displays through iFix it included the foam or not—mine didn’t.

    Micah Sledge - 回复

    Second the concern about the foam. I bought the full repair kit, but was surprised there wasn’t already polyimide tape on the digitizer or in the kit. At least mention that it needs to be purchased extra.

    Ronny Barlow - 回复

    @baron9 The displays we sell have the proper insulation and don’t require any tape. That note is more for folks who use our guides while buying the parts from somewhere else. (They tend to complain here, even though it’s the part that’s at fault, not the guide.) I’ve updated the instructions to try to make things a little more clear. Sorry about that!

    Jeff Suovanen -

结论

若要重新组装你的设备,按照以下步骤逆序操作。

473等其他人完成本指南。

特别感谢这些译者︰

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Actually, I didnt remove the crashed front panel(the old one) as this guide. The edge of front panel didnt stick so much with the cover case, so I use force to tear off the crumbled edge. Be prepared for the "dust of glass", it will really hurt your body, if you plan to do as my way.

Additionally, there is another difficulty part of me. When I stick the new panel on. There is always some small dust between the screen and the front panel.

yzg1199 - 回复

Great guide, a lot harder with a cracked screen due to no flat surfaces for suction cup but eventually got it off, thanks

Billy Rooke - 回复

How to put it back? LCD + digitizer do not want to "cooperate" in ribbons area

jacekzarzecki - 回复

Use the spudger to gently push or pull them into the slot. That's what I did. It's charging now so I don't know if it works yet or not

Kristin Mcgeehan -

Assembled back with a new digitizer. Powered on.

1. Screen keeps to be black, no image. Put on a charger, iPad makes "boing" sound very quite every 10 seconds or so. Plugged it into a Macbook Air, iPad show up in iTunes and iFoto, all data can be accessed.

2. Suddenly, after few minutes connected to the Macbook Air, iPad boot screen appears on iPad and device boots-up.

3. Now, input is very sporadic and unreliable. Device keeps selecting items on its own and starting apps on its own, doesn't react reliably to user input. Seems as if the digitizer or its connection is damaged. Hard to tell, everything went ok, only problem was the removal of the old adhesive to have a plain surface for the new one.

As is, this is a failure, device does not work as expected. Data is safe though.

Marc - 回复

Seems to be the same problem talked about here at step 39 (don't know why under 39 this is why I didn't see it in the first place.

The guide does tell you to put a narrow piece of tape at the bottom left and right from the home button. I will try this now and hope it helps. I guess it is this problem since the digitizer works perfectly once detached from the screen. A picture of this would be very helpful since it is not clear, how far this tape should go. I will try a complete cover of this area but the downside is, that there will be some space that may hinder the adhesive. I'll see.

I covered the whole bottom copper with tape, digitizer still glues on the frame and... everything is shiny and works as expected. Hence don't forget this tape. Glad I reopened the device, first I was reluctant and wanted to call it a failure, now I have a working iPad again.

Marc -

Now I did some 6h of testing, digitizer works good, only thing that happens now is that the magnetic cover does wake up the iPad when opened and let it sleep when closed, so that is ok but now it also sleeps the device if you open the cover (device wake up) and wrap it 180 degrees around the iPad (as is one of the resting positions). Guess I did something wrong in the inside.

Marc - 回复

Tremendous guide!

Omar Lasanta - 回复

I'm studying the instructions, getting ready to fix my iPad. My questions is, what type of tape do I use to tape the copper/silver on the digitizer? Will normal scotch tape work as I have around the house, or do I need a specialized type of tape?

David Carroll - 回复

You need to ether use kapton tape mate or electrical works good to

Dillon -

I had some trouble with the touch ribbon cable, when i close the iPad touch go crazy.

Danilo - 回复

Great video and great picture quality as is the text to go with it i had followed every single step, as i have patience of a saint, only my problem is before i fully stick it down i have tested it by switching it on and nothing, put the charger through and left for 5 minutes as battery was 30% anyway, so probably drained over the last few days while i was away from the office to await a new part to arrive. Is there something i am doing wrong or not. thankyou for your patience and answering this question hopefully.

waynenotley - 回复

I have a problem after the replacement, after a month or so, the screen or display start shacking when I press the touchscreen, somebody told me it was the censors, anyone can help me?

Luis Tamborrell - 回复

I had an issue with replacing the digitizer after replacing the battery on the A1474. The digitizer cracked during removal while doing the battery replacement. All went well with the battery replacement, although this is quite a difficult repair to do. When I installed the digitizer after the new replacement arrived from Amazon, I tested it before sealing everything together. All tests passed, no problems. When I got the unit repealed (everything working), I noticed a tiny spec of lint or something on the interior of the glass between the LCD and the digitizer. I had to take the unit apart again to clean the spec off, and when I re-assembled, the digitizer doesn't work now. I have never had this happen before despite doing a lot of screen replacements. I see from others posts, that Kapton tape is required to be placed at the bottom of the digitizer to avoid 'digitizers gone wild' like I am experiencing. Ordering Kapton tape today. Wondering if anyone is experiencing this with the iFixit Digitizers.

David Hoffman - 回复

Screen removal: Be sure to heat the adhesive to at least 135f

xocornhole69 - 回复

I wear latex gloves when dealing with the screen and LCD. Upon disassembly, the parts go on a clean sheet of printer paper, then covered with more paper. Then, before assembling i use one of those compressed air keyboard spray cans to remove dust.

xocornhole69 - 回复

This is great for the hi rez pics but anyone planning on doing this should seriously watch one of the numerous videos on youtube

Elpoep - 回复

replaced LCD on iPad air that I bought from iFixit. Instructions were good, but the digitizer removal didnt work ask expected. Suction cup and iOpener would not work. I had to use a hair dryer and a razor blade to start. Made a couple very minor nicks in the metal edge, but I use an Otterbox case so you'll never see them anyway. So far, everything is still working. I thought there would be some kind of digitizer calibration, but everything fits so tight I guess it's not needed.

kinchma - 回复

The guide only states heating the iOpener in 30 second intervals with a minimum of 2 minutes in between heating sessions. I found this to be in adequate. I heated the iOpener for 40 seconds and it, indeed, came out of the microwave a lot hotter! I placed it on the left side of the iPad, from top to bottom, for about 15 seconds then placed the suction cup in-front of the iOpener on the left side middle edge of the screen and scooted the iOpener back and pushing down on the suction cup. The extra temp of the iOpener is transferred through the glass really quick. I pulled up and the adhesive became very malleable. Maybe try some extra heating of the iOpener next time to use it properly. I have used the hair dryer method in the past and the iOpener is by far the easiest and cleanest method I that tried.

Joshua Sullivan -

If you screen is very cracked you might want to consider going for the complete screen assembly. When I got mine apart the clip the holds the button to the screen was too damaged to use. Strangely the clip isn't listed as a part of the iPad Air 1st get if you navigate through the iFixit website looking for iPad Air 1st gen parts but it's for sale here iPad Air Home Button Bracket weird.

James - 回复

I just accomplished this guide yesterday with an iFixit repair kit (digitizer and tools).

My question is, if we covered the metal part by the home button with tape and our digitizer is still freaking out. Do, or can, we send it back to iFixit as a warranty problem?

Joshua Sullivan - 回复

I completed this repair successfully with no major issues, and it works well enough that I am writing this from the said iPad, but the touchscreen does not work well or at all near bottom corner to the left of the home button (although as far as I have used it it has not "gone wild" yet). Does anybody else have this problem or have an idea on how to solve it?

juliefarbarik - 回复

How do you remove the home button bracket and home button?

I need to transfer my home button to the new piece of glass but there's no instruction as to how to remove the button from the old glass. I assume it's adhesive because I don't see any screws, but I also don't want to bend or damage the bracket.

evankirsh - 回复

Correct, it's very strong adhesive. You'll need a lot of heat, patience, and a very thin pry tool or blade to separate it. Wear gloves and eye protection as it's easy to break the glass in the process. The iPad 4 procedure is similar enough that you can use it as a rough guide (although the Air is more difficult IMO). If you're doing more than one, skip the hassle and pick up a replacement panel with the home button preinstalled.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you Jeff for the reply. I just wish this guide included step-by-step instructions how to do this. How exactly do I get the home button assembly back on the new screen? What type of adhesive do I use? How do I apply the new bezel adhesive?

So many questions, I wish I bought the panel with home button pre-installed, but it's too late now.

evankirsh -

No worries, it's still a perfectly do-able repair! Here's a video of the process for reference. For re-adhering the button, a bit of Loctite super glue should do the trick. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Sent my iPad in for a repair for a replacement screen, and the company have replied

Your device has suffered damage to the top right section of the front

screen. Directly underneath this impact area sits the power/volume flex.

This component connects the power button and volume buttons to the main

board. Based on previous repairs, we have found that if this component is

not repaired then it may cause issues in the future; potentially resulting

in the part either developing a fault or failing completely. This would

result in not being able to turn the device on and off using the power

button and/or be able to control the silent/mute switch and volume buttons.

I have replied saying just to repair the screen they have come back with this

I

Zoe Ellis - 回复

Due to the damage we cannot guarantee how long the component will work

for. From past experience we have found if not replaced it can cause

reliability issues in the future. The technician has therefore recommended

this is replaced. The added problem is that to repair this component at a

later date involves having to break the screen to gain access to the

component, which would then incur further costs.

We would be happy to offer the repair at a discounted price of £29.99 on

this occasion as a good will gesture as some of the work would have already

been carried out. This will of course include a 12 month warranty on the

repair for your peace of mind.

Please Note; If a recommendation is declined and this part later fails, this

will not be covered under warranty and may incur further charges.

Please advise how you would like to proceed.

I feel that they just want more money from me. Your views would be appreciated

Kind regards

Zoe Ellis - 回复

Please help me proplem touch screen after chang digitizer

عصام خضر - 回复

Great guide!

I did run into two issues after following it though:

1) After I start up the ipad and the get the Apple logo the screen goes black, but if I hold down the power button I get the power off screen and I can click cancel to get me to the lock screen that asks me to press the home button to open, but this leads me to the next issue

2) when click the home button, nothing happens. I've taken the screen off for the second time and made sure the cable and latch are connected securely, and still nothing.

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

Gary Yee - 回复

After having replaced a couple of iPhone screens, this was a real breeze having had the prior experience. Thanks again. BTW, I used a blow dryer in conjunction with the iOpener to remove old screen.

Brandon Van Leer - 回复

A proud dad: My wonderful seven year-old performed all of the steps after the (admitedly tricky) removal of the digitizer, this with a little supervision but she was following the instructions herself. She has much more delicate control than me for these tiny components :-). Thank you for this fabulous guide. Agreed with other readers that two unphotographed steps of the reassembly are stress inducing and hazardous: The pads either side of the home button, and tucking in the cables.

Ralph Purtscher - 回复

GREAT!

I wrote a flowing commentary on my success using these instructions...wouldn't post.

SO I'll just say, take your time, have a clean work area and use magnifyer glasses!

Thanks again!

1JohnEd - 回复

Great guide that proved successful for me as well! Only improvement to the guide I would suggest is around the heating pad and time of application. The first 30 second zap does not get it as hot as waiting 10 minutes and zapping again in the microwave. From there on in 10 minute increments it is at a good temperature. Applying for 3 to 5 minutes at a time seemed necessary but perhaps it the glue on the older iPads is even more stubborn. Spudger made for a good clean out tool for the glue, tape, and glass bits. Total time for me was 4 hours but the glass was really broken and lots of working around that.

edl - 回复

I followed the instructions to the letter. However, the instructions leave out what to do about the Home button. I used the Digitizer assembly intact and put everything back together and the Home button did not operate though it was in as assembled. It would be nice if the Repair Guides had a little troubleshooting help. I have followed several dozen of iFixit Repair Guides in the past from B&W G3 days through all the iPhones and this is the one thing wanting in the guides.

David Larson - 回复

Hi David—If your home button isn't responding, I'd probably start by re-seating the ribbon cable connector and inspecting the ribbon cable for damage. I happen to agree with you about adding a post-repair troubleshooting/FAQ section to the guides. I think that's a great idea. For now, try posting your question in our Answers forum—there are lots of helpful folks in there who can offer troubleshooting suggestions.

Jeff Suovanen -

Everything went fine.

I do notice now however that when I open the magnetic cover and place it against the back of the iPad, it goes to sleep.

Im not sure if this procedure affects the magnets.

The only way to stop this is to turn off the auto on/off when you close the cover.

Has anyone else had this problem?

Thanks

kurt heuser - 回复

I only have to replace the glass, so I'm making sure I don't have to replace the digitizer to, am I correct in this? Any advise will be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Susan Canavas

scanavas1 - 回复

The glass and digitizer come as a single component—there's no practical way to replace one without the other. That said, the glass/digitizer assembly is very inexpensive.

Jeff Suovanen -

I did it! But had to use a heat gun because the shards were too small to be removed. It took more than 3 hours, but when I got the old glass panel out, it was a very smooth job.

Josue Acosta - 回复

As others have pointed out: With a completely shattered glass, especially on the left side, the first steps of this guide are only vaguely useful. Be creative! A trick I discovered is that there is a hollow area beneath the glass and above the lcd. The glass was broken completely there, and I was able to crack the glass along the entire left edge from there, slowly but surely, using the edge of the pick as a saw. Finally I could get beneath the edge and follow the guide on the bottom and top, and then again use the sawing technique on the right side. In the end I could lift off the (rest of) the digitizer, and finally scrape the remaining glass and adhesive off the aluminium bezel. It was not a very clean operation, but it worked.

Sigve Indregard - 回复

I really have to ask:

What ever happened to Gorilla Glass?

Obviously the glass on iPad Air can simply shatter just playing RealRacing3

being throttle is right at edge of hole of home button,

and if heavy duty case has slightly off center access hole

to home button, this is in fact how mine shattered,

Cruising Le'mans circuit 243 mph requires full throttle,

seriously...

Philscbx - 回复

Search results:

Apple products are not listed

https://www.corning.com/gorillaglass/wor...

Philscbx - 回复

I was hoping there was internal messaging option here, so Ill just

ask if you have time to do a screen

repair., all prepaid door to door.

I just moved or Id attempt mission

myself, and at the moment, have a stack of repair tools sitting in the cart here, to attack it with.

I still use the iPad some, but its so glitchy with phantom actions, and 2 days ago, my 09'MacBook Pro just died, so I'm down to my V20 just purchased 2 months ago.

If not able, we'll gladly use a reference.

Thanks

Phil, Mpls Mn.

Philscbx - 回复

Worked smooth for me. Pain in the behind getting the screen off. With patience it came off in about 90 minutes and then it was smooth sailing.

ablits82492 - 回复

Great!

First time I did something like this. Now that I have the experience, it will only take me 15 minutes next time! Broke the cracked screen when trying to pry it out. Wow! That screen bursts into a fine cloud of dust. Make sure you wear eye protection. Unless you know what you are doing, you will probably break the screen while trying to remove it. Even if it does, just keep going, it won't effect the outcome, it just gets a little messy.

iPad works like new! Few tricky moments, but once you figure it out, you will appreciate the way iPads have been designed. minimal fuss and as easy to put together as a Lego kit!

Steve Bosman - 回复

Cracked screen replacement went well. Had to use a hair dryer instead of the iOpener. Has any experienced this issue after reassembly…. Randomly the screen seems to go into sleep mode. Sometimes it doesn’t do it, sometimes it happens after a few minutes. The screen will go black and have to be unlocked again… Any advice would be helpful, I don’t believe any of the cables were pinched or messed up during assembly.

Alex Craig - 回复

Started with a badly cracked screen so removal in the suggested manner didn’t work. In the end it took several hours to slowly work the shattered screen off using Spudger and razor knife (be slow and methodical if you go this route as a slip it drop can damage the LCD. Once the old one was removed the rest was easy. Not sure if I could have removed the old one in a single piece even if it wasn’t already shattered

final warning on the heat pad. Accidentally hit 3 minutes on the microwave rather than 30 seconds. Now that was a mess!!!

Ken DeRoo - 回复

I fixed my wife’s co-worker Ipad air Wi-Fi tonight. this guide was very helpful. I had to replace the front panel. only thing I think this guide is missing is a how replace the home button and ribbon. other then that.  Thanks for the great guide.

jac02874 - 回复

Fantastic guide! Easy to follow, in my case I had splintered glass which made the removal of the digitiser harder to get off but once that was done the rest of the process went smooth even the use of the polyimde tape. Put it all back together and everything works perfectly with no glitches.

Thank you so much for putting together this guide.

cheers Owen

Owen Petersen - 回复

Gerade Fertig geworden! Perfekte Anleitung! Wichtig ist das gute abkleben des Glases wenn es euch gesprungen ist, außerdem behutsam mit dem LCD Panel umgehen und vor Staub schützen während dem “lagern” ;-) … Klasse! Vielen Dank

Daniel Welzenbach - 回复

thank you for god discription

I have Problem to disconect the accu from mainboard.

Have you got i idea for me?

Thank you very much for answer, i will not damage the board

i use razor blade to separeta the glas but you mus be very carefol that you not damage home button ribbon

christian - 回复

This was my first Ipad Air WiFi replacement. It went off without a hitch. A couple observations or comments.

#1- Check if everything else is working before you begin, i.e. The headphone jack, Front and Rear Cameras, WiFi and Bluetooth, Home Button, Volume buttons, Speaker, EVERYTHING.

#2 - You don’t have to mess with the battery if the battery is drained.

#3 - BUY THE TAPE THAT GOES BETWEEN THE LCD AND DIGITIZER BEFORE YOU BEGIN !!!

Oscar Fernandez - 回复

#4 - Once you have folded the digitizer to the side, study the digitizer with the new one and visualize how and where the ribbons go. THEN CUT THE RIBBON FROM THE BROKEN DIGITIZER. There is no need to be fumbing with a broken digitizer all over the place.

#5- PRACTICE WITH THE CUT-OFF RIBBONS. When you get to the part of removing conections…Connect them again…Get a feel of how to make these connections if it’s your first time. It will reduce the percentage of you bending the connections of the new digitizer AND you won’t have a feeling of, “how the heck does this connect”.

#6 Finally DENTS, DENTS, DENTS…If the ipad has dents anywhere ESPECIALLY on the corners, the new digitizer WILL NOT go in and be flush with a dented Ipad frame. You have to buy the tool to fix dented corners or learn how to fix and straighten dents somehow.

Oscar Fernandez - 回复

just finished this repair after a cracked screen. The lcd looked basically ok.

iPad looks like this now:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/a09mkbnpgj8di0...

any idea what’s the problem?

friesdan - 回复

The iOpener heating thing was not effective...a heat gun worked much better. The guitar picks to open the ipad were a joke, that glue is so strong it needs a metal spatula style tool to really get in there (other companies have this). A suction cup to open the glass, which was badly cracked, also didn't work at all, giving more reason for needing a metal spatula. No mention was made in the guide that you'd need new adhesive to use the old home button, which would have been helpful, now I have a sunken in home button. The end of the guide mentions a certain tape you need to isolate the screen electrically, but doesn't say that that tape is included with the new glass purchased from ifixit, which is clearly misleading so that you will think you need to buy the tape (which you don't actually need). On top of all this, I can see lines in the new glass, which is clearly not as high end as the OEM glass. The guide and tools suggested were just not good enough for this very difficult repair.

Zack Howard - 回复

It is a difficult repair—sorry you had a bad time. The Kapton tape instruction was clearly written to cover all the bases, not to gouge customers—people buy cheap, poorly insulated panels from all over the place, but still use iFixit guides to install them and then they complain here when the repair fails. We update the guides to try and help everyone succeed, even if they don’t buy their parts here. Also, having done this repair a few times, I disagree about using a metal tool—if you need that much force, you haven’t gotten the panel hot enough. Your home button adhesive comment is fair—we wrote this guide for the “full assembly” panel that comes with a new home button preinstalled, which is why there are no instructions for transferring the home button, but it would be nice if we had a longer version for folks who need it. As far as lines in the glass, if you are unhappy with the quality of the part I’d recommend you contact the customer service team directly and they will probably send you a replacement.

Jeff Suovanen -

thanks for your help my ipad is now fixed for less than $20. mine was really badly smashed up got glass shards everywhere but after carefull cleaning complete success like brand new. thanks

james snaith - 回复

The only advise I would add is to check that your LCD is not damaged before sticking new digitizer to aluminum body. Mine looked to be in good shape but luckily I checked it first before re-assembling digitizer and it had been damaged. My other advise is if your Digitizer is shattered bad like mine was you will need to use an Exacto knife to work the broken adhered edges off aluminum frame after softening adhesive and be prepared to spend a lot more time removing glass and small debris from inside Ipad body.

Jason Carney - 回复

you do not need the tape that goes between the display and the digitizer if you bought the screen digitizer from ifixit !!!!

Oscar Fernandez - 回复

you should add the home button replacement in this guide, but it is great!

arnel01 - 回复

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