简介

Use this guide to replace a broken display.

    • Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

    • Remove the following ten screws:

      • Two 9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

      • Eight 2.6 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • The special screwdriver needed to remove the ten 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

    These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

    Rulle Boer - 回复

    My Wiha P5 screwdriver was too big for these screws, but my P4 worked fine.

    BrianM -

    The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

    I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

    budpegasus - 回复

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - 回复

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - 回复

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - 回复

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - 回复

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - 回复

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - 回复

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - 回复

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - 回复

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - 回复

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - 回复

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - 回复

  1. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - 回复

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - 回复

    • As a precaution against accidental discharge or shock, disconnect the battery connector from the logic board.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

    • Be sure to pull the connector horizontally toward the battery, and not straight up from the Air, or you may damage the socket on the logic board.

    The clear plastic tab is missing on mine. Whoever worked on my laptop before me seems to have ripped it off. Now what?

    mjmorawski - 回复

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector upward out of its socket on the I/O board.

    Be really careful when reconnecting the I/O board cable connector. The deep connector has a tendency to bend the pins with very little force applied. If this is the case, check to see if the gold pins are bent down, you may only see one row of gold pins vertically, or none.

    They can be lifted with a flat head screwdriver bit. Gently slide the bit under the pins, this may need a small amount of pressure depending on how far they are bent down. Lever the pins back to the vertical position.

    I found attempting to insert this connector was easier while holding the MacBook on a slight angle to see down the pins as I aligned the connector.

    Another way to tell if the I/O connector cable is in place correctly is to run an Apple Hardware Test. Hold down the letter D while booting the mac and follow the prompts. If no issues found, you're all good.

    A common error for a misconnected I/O Connector is 4SNS/1/C0000008:TS0P--124. This means the system cannot read the palm temperature sensor. Fix the cable and you're good

    Ben - 回复

    • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the top of the fan.

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    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the tip of a spudger to pry upward on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

    This step can be skipped, not required for removing the fan.

    yurkennis - 回复

    Agreed, there is no need to remove this cable.

    David Robillard - 回复

    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    It is not necessary to remove the fan cable.

    ezequielaceto - 回复

    It's certainly necessary to remove the fan cable, as you won't be able to remove the fan in Step 10 if you don't!

    Goth70 Fuzed - 回复

    If you break the ZIF socket, it could be a bad day.... It happened to me. Not one to throw in the towel, I fashioned a hold-down with a length of paperclip held in place by the nearby screw. So far, it is working like a charm. Hopefully, it continues to work and this helps some other poor soul.

    Lester Newsom - 回复

    I also haven't removed the fan cable. No need for this step IMHO. Just let the fan on the side instead of completely remove it.

    David Robillard - 回复

    Trouble putting the cable back in the ZIF socket?

    Get some electrical tape and cut it down the the width of the ribbon cable fold over one end to create a pull tab. Now place the tape onto the ribbon to give yourself something to pull either in or out as needed. Then you can peel off the tape.

    Don't forget the unlatch the connector first!

    Source: Re-connecting fan ribbon cable

    Adam Banko - 回复

    • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

    Note how the “ears” of the gasket are routed

    davecortesi - 回复

    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

      • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

    • Lift the fan out of the upper case and carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove it from the Air.

    Would like more detail about removing the fan cable. Looks like it just pulls out to the right. I thought I ripped it off.

    kennyavis81 - 回复

    On re-installation of fan cable cable no tool required - just wiggle it in from from side/above (side force aided by bend of cable)

    Super easy - my first computer repair..hope all is well

    paul deacon - 回复

    The ribbon connector held in the socket by a tiny square on top, which enters a square hole in the top of the socket. An xacto blade used to pry the top of the connector gently up will help release the connector.

    peteragries - 回复

    This helped me no end, I agree with the people above that it's worth explaining how the ribbon cable is held in and that

    it's simple to remove and reinstall. Thank you for a brilliant guide.

    leesparey - 回复

    Year, from the top, the ribbon appears to be just the plastic strip. Copper connectors are on the bottom but at first glance it looks like I pulled the connector off the ribbon. Mine pulled straight out away from the connector, no upward angle needed or desired.

    Allen - 回复

    Question: Is the ribbon connector a part of the fan, so that the new fan has its own ribbon connector? Apologies if this sounds trivial, but I could not tell from the wording/picture.

    jerry bennett - 回复

    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

    添加评论

    • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the corner of the Air to disconnect it from its socket, using the tip of a spudger to help push the connector out of its socket.

    • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

    Mine was very reluctant... couldn't get any purchase with a spudger, had to use flat tweezers to get enough grip on the cable. Exerted slowly increasing pull, but when it came out, it broke loose suddenly.

    Allen - 回复

    My Macbook Air (2013) didn't have this cable.

    Phillip Remaker - 回复

    Mine too, only a slot where a cable was passing,

    Gianni Borghesan -

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    • De-route the left speaker cable from its retainer on the I/O board.

    On re-assembly, I haven't gotten the speaker or microphone to work. Must have broken the connection, but it looks fine. Ran the hardware diagnostic (holding down "D" at start up) and got the following error code - 4MOT/4/40000002:Exhaust-0

    Anyone know what this means.

    Daniel Thomas - 回复

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the microphone cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    Be very careful: it is quite easy to accidentally pry the whole cable connector from the I/O board.

    Dallas Guy - 回复

    What do you do if this happens? Buy a whole new I/O board?

    adamwitz -

    I agree, I found this to be the only critical step of the entire disassembly procedure: I snapped the microphone connector socket off the board despite applying a relatively gentle pull on the cables. Fortunately I did this on a dead MBair from which I wanted to get the display, but now I'm afraid of doing the same damage while installing the display on the target MBair!

    Any tricks/tips would be most welcome.

    Lorenzo

    Lorenzo Cangiano - 回复

    Following up on my previous post I'd like to share how I eventually circumvented the risk of snapping the microphone connector socket on the I/O board. Instead of attempting to disconnect the mic (as suggested in this guide, step 14), I did the following: a. remove the battery, b. detach the right speaker, c. detach the microphone from the outer case (for steps b and c I followed the iFixit guide on how to replace a MacbookAir microphone). The advantage is that the microphone can now remain safely connected to the I/O board. Of course when reassembling the mac one has to reverse these extra steps (the microphone can be easily reattached to the case as it has a sticky side). I would strongly advise iFixit to revise this guide accordingly!

    Lorenzo Cangiano -

    I don't think this step is necessary if you aren't seeking to fully remove the I/O board - if you are seeking only to remove the heatsink, you can skip this step, leave this delicate cable attached, then in the next couple steps you'll end up "flipping" the board out of the way, while leaving this cable connected.

    coopermarcus - 回复

    Maybe I just lucked out but removing the mic cable was about the same effort as the left speaker cable. I wasn't ready to try Lorenzo's workaround above without a photo guide, so took my chances. Your mileage may vary.

    Allen - 回复

    • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

    The screw was stripped and I couldn’t remove it, but it didn’t matter, I could complete removal of the logic board without removing the I/O board. I think the steps involved with disconnecting the I/O board are redundant.

    Nigel Anderson - 回复

    • Carefully lift the I/O board from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

    When following these instructions in reverse, and reinstalling the I/O board, be sure to carefully check and adjust the alignment of the ports on the board with the holes in the case - it is especially obvious if the headphone port is mis-aligned with the case.

    coopermarcus - 回复

    Also on reassembly, make sure the speaker and microphone cables are visible before securing the i/o board!

    davecortesi - 回复

    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

      • Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

      • Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws

    Be careful when screwing in again not to overtighten, the plastic of the battery breaks easily with tightening.

    Mike Dacre - 回复

    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

    添加评论

    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

    Disaster strikes. I pulled away the socket itself (just like it says not to). Is there any possibility to re-connect it, or did I just ruin the whole logic board?

    Nigel Anderson - 回复

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use your spudger to help pull the cable out of its socket.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pry up from beneath the cables.

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    • Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket.

    • While holding the lock away from the socket, use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable from its socket.

    • Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

    Regarding the second photo on step 22, I believe the placement of the spudger is incorrect. If the second photo's purpose is to demonstrate the placement of the spudger described in the second bullet--"...use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable..."-- then such placement could lead to damaging the connector. View this annotated screenshot to see what I'm trying to convey: https://www.evernote.com/shard/s4/sh/1f5....

    Christopher Fernandes - 回复

    I agree, I used tweezers to pull it gently and it worked beautifully

    Gian Carlo -

    Agree. Use tweezers.

    sdcsoup -

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

    When reconnecting, how will I know which cable connects to the connectors?

    Ringo CoC - 回复

    Fits oneway only. See length of the cable connectors

    yuroen - 回复

    I put a small piece of red tape on the right wire to identify.

    kcunningham - 回复

    • Gently de-route the antenna cables from the slot cut into the logic board.

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    • Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

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    • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

    • Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

    Warning: there may be adhesive keeping the SSD in place. i got 1 with, and 1 without, both slightly different models (but still the same model name, A1466 )

    divinity76 - 回复

    • Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    Please Please Please remember to re-attach your antenna cables if you are replacing the upper case with a new or refurbished one. They have a way of slipping under the logic board.

    Timothy Button - 回复

    These screws are easily stripped. If you accidentally push too hard, you will strip the screw when re-attaching. If that happens, get a pair of needle nose pliers and gently work the screw out taking care not to damage the board.

    Timothy Button - 回复

    My screws were 4.xx mm

    Gabe - 回复

    These screws are actually 3.6 mm T5 Torx. Please fix :)

    Doc Halstater - 回复

    I’ll second this observation.

    sjosefw -

    When putting the logic board back, make sure the speaker wire isn't trapped under it

    Shiv Sikand - 回复

    • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.

    These are T9-sized torx screws, not T8.

    Hanii Puppy - 回复

    This is good to know. I think I need to order a screwdriver set - all I have is the pentalobe and one other that came with my SSD replacement kit.

    forestsprite -

    I also had T9 screws on my device.

    I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. The screws are quite tight so it´s easier to loosen them while the case is lying flat on the surface. This procedure comes in handy in Step 34 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

    wolfgang07 - 回复

    Mine were T8 screws, but I was able to use a T9 torx with pressure and that worked.

    kcunningham - 回复

    • Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.

    "remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case" -- an optional step when detaching components from upper case for cleaning, eg after a liquid spilled to keyboard.

    yurkennis - 回复

    • Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

    • Hold the antenna cables out of the way as you lift the heat sink end of the logic board out of the upper case.

    On reassembly, as you seat the board in place, make sure the keyboard backlight cable is not trapped under it.

    davecortesi - 回复

    • Gently de-route the antenna cables out of the channel cut into the upper case.

    添加评论

    • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right display hinge to the upper case.

    • We intentionally have you leave the third screw in to aid in future steps.

    Again, these are T9 screws, not T8.

    Hanii Puppy - 回复

    Dear all,

    on my Air I dropped water and now the display looks without backlight... I can type with no issue, as well the backlight of the keyboard is working fine, audio too but the display doesn't show the light also if boosted at top. What's happened?

    Thanks,

    sev7en - 回复

    I also had T9 screws on my device.

    Like in Step28 I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. Comes in handy in Step 33 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

    wolfgang07 - 回复

    Does anyone know if it will work without the display assembly all together? I just want to remove it and plug into an external monitor.

    Andrew White - 回复

    I recommend to loosen outward screws at this step, so it is easier to completely unscrew them on the next step.

    yurkennis - 回复

    • Open the display until it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.

    • While holding the Air steady, remove the remaining 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

    During reassembly, once the two screws are in the left and right hinges, close the laptop and flip it over so that the display is down on the table. Run your fingers along the edge of the laptop where the display meets the lower assembly. If it is not flush, loosen the two screws in the hinges slightly and adjust, then retighten.

    Ethan Cross - 回复

    • Before removing the last display screw, be sure to hold the display and upper case steady with your other hand. Failure to do so may allow the components to fall onto the table, causing potentially expensive damage.

    • Remove the last 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

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    • Push the upper case slightly toward the display assembly, then rotate it away from the front of the display assembly.

    • Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.

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终点

81等其他人完成本指南。

附加文件

Sure would be nice if you could either add to the guide or have a new guide that continued the process and actually disassembled the screen assembly. It is no more difficult to take apart the display than it is to take apart an iPad.

jonlobb86 - 回复

Thanks a ton for this guide! I got my MBAir back in working order in about an hour. The only weird thing I noticed was my MBAir battery unexpectedly registering at 0% upon re-seating. But it's charging so I suppose all's well that ends well.

jasontomczak - 回复

This guide is way more than needed for the display replacement. Until it gets edited down, all you need to do is steps 1-3, 12, 22-24, 28, 31-35 from the "upper case replacement" guide (which is apparently what this guide is right now, instead of a display replacement guide as it is labeled).

brentp - 回复

This is a really great comment! Thanks, you've saved me lots of time!

Charles -

Thank you! Valuable comment!

pzhivulin -

That’s not entirely correct. If you skip the motherboard lifting steps, you’ll have to cut the plastic strips that keep the AirPort/BT cables in place, before you can deroute them (at least in my Mid-2011 Air). To deroute the cables you’ll also have to remove at least one motherboard screw, in order to slightly lift the area of the MoBo under which the AP/BT cables run.

Emanuele Fiorillo -

I removed the display assembly even without removing the fan or the Logic Board. I don't see why it's necessary =)

Marhowl - 回复

I just replaced my display. While some may complain about the details, I found it extremely helpful. It took my novice hands much longer than advertised, but I suspect my next time around, I will be able to do this in half the time. Thank you iFixit!!

macman2 - 回复

The screw mat is missing some screws: the battery screws are not correctly identified on it. Other than that, excellent guide with very clear instructions and warnings. The whole process of replacing the display assembly took about 45 minutes, working carefully.

panaman - 回复

It's not needed to remove any components besides disconnecting the battery and cables that connect to this screen. There are way too many unneeded steps here. Look at this guy replace the assembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB3QGsp5...

Mike - 回复

Hi! Thanks for the guide.

I was wondering if I can use the monitor of the MacBook Air 13" Mid 2012 to replace the monitor of my MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011.

Many thanks in advance.

Tai

k4noooooooooo - 回复

2010-2012 compatible. 2013-present cables too long although screen will work.

RJ Smith -

very clean, sexy handzz :)

Aleksander - 回复

This is the right guide for LCD replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3lhuy3s...

pzhivulin - 回复

I have just done this, and all you need to do is take the display off, not remove the logic board. I did remove the fan for access, but I am not even sure that you need to do that. Very easy and straight toward job, only fiddly bit is reconnecting the two antennae connectors, but this is no different with the logic board in or out

chris haines - 回复

I have a broken screen. Should I expect just to pay for a screen replacement and not the display assembly to get the screen happy?

Please confirm if I could use a screen from a mid-2012 MacBook Air to use on my mid-2011 MacBook Air. Thank you.

downdog89 - 回复

we repair mac book in pune, india. DNA Computers..http://www.dnacomputers.in

DNA Computers - 回复

Thanks for the write up. It was perfect to help change the display for 2011 13 inch macbook air

couple of connectors for antenna was bit tedious to reconnect. Rest isnt that difficult

g pb - 回复

Great instructions. Used the iFixit Classic Pro Tech Toolkit, which has all the necessary tools (and then some). Thank you!

wednai - 回复

I don’t need to replace my display, but I would like to adjust / tighten its hinge– it got rather lose and shaky over the years. Is this possible without disassembling it all? Anybody got experience?

Marco Binder - 回复

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