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Repair guides and support for the fourth generation of Ford Mustang, including the Mustang GT and Mustang Cobra.

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Why is my Battery Draining

If I don’t start my 04 Mustang Mach I in two days, the battery is dead. Pulled individual fuses, no problem. Pulled the #6 High Currency Fuse (located by the battery) and the draw stops. #6 controls the Powertrain Control Module (replaced with a reman with plug and play), I/P Fuse panel and Instrument Cluster. I’ve called three Ford Dealerships and Ford Motor Company who could not provide me with any information as to what the I/P Fuse panel is or where it is located in order to determine if there is a short. Can you help?

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I have the same problem with my 2003 SVT Cobra, if I let my car sit for 3-4 days my battery will die. Changed the battery and had the alternator rebuilt but the battery will still drain . I suspect the voltage regulator might be faulty.

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That seems to be a common problem with those Ford's.

You could install a kill switch until you can pinpoint the problem.

I will look around on the Stang forums for an answer.

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Thank you I have look at some stang forums, but no luck on my end

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Ok try this: Check battery voltage while car is running. It will probably be around 12v or 12.5, it is not charging at this rate.

Connect a grounding wire (#4 copper) to the bracket of the alternator and to the negative post of the battery and check voltage again, now you should read 14v or better and the battery is now charging correctly. If this works make the connections permanent and secure the wire in several spots.

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I understand what you are saying and the battery is charging correctly. The drain in the battery is when the vehicle is not in use. What is confusing is when I pull the #6 high currency fuse the draw stops, but the odd part is when I use a test light to both the terminals on the #6 fuse block, it shows no current at all. When I put the fuse back in, the current again flows thru the fuse. This is confusing. Thanks for you answer though.

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Can you read the amount of voltage?

Sometimes it can be a glovebox or trunk/hood light not turning off but I

assume you checked those things.

You're problem is with a light that can be on without the key being in the on position or the engine started. Trunk, hood, glovebox, dome light or a dead short in one of those circuits.

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When you put the fuse back in, there is a current drain, when you test with your test light, the bulb does not light up as the drain is so small that the bulb will not show any illumination. Use your AMP meter and test the amount of current drain then let us know, you will need a good wire diagram to trace the problem, we can help if anybody has a diagram to share.

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OK I will try both what Michael posted and you Duane. I have the actual Mustang Mach I manual that should show a wiring diagram. I will let both of you know.

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The most common cause with Ford’s battery draining is the voltage regulator located in the alternator. It is not a difficult job to replace once you have the alternator out of the car, and the voltage regulator sells for about $15 on ebay.

If not mechanically inclined have the alternator replaced.

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Put a cd in player and leave it in and that will fix Cd payer is looking for cd all the time even when switch is off I found this on my own It works i know and now you can donate a dollar to me Lol

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I just bought a 2003 mustang… battery was dead bought brand new one and drove home…whome...went out to start car this morning battery was again dead…also car feeks like it's losing power pulling a hill

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Where is the hood light located?? My father is having this same issue with his 2000 Ford Mustang.. the hood light is the last possible thing he has to check.. he just needs to know the location.. (there isn't a light anywhere.. that's visible..) Thank you.. any help is appreciated

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I had the same issue with a 2001 Mustang. Here is what I found out in the hopes it will help some one out:

Battery would be dead after a few days if car was not driven. Checked current from battery with car completely turned off. Over 300mA current. Started pulling fuses under the hood. 40A Maxi fuse number 6 caused the current draw to drop to a few milliamps. Problem was shorted output transistors in the Mach sound system bass amp in the trunk (right side). Found it by pulling connectors, one at a time. Seems the amps get standby power to keep the electronics “warm” to avoid a pop when turned on. Found replacement transistors at Digi-Key electronics and fixed it up. All works fine now and car can sit for two weeks and start just fine.

Now for the data that will help you troubleshoot:

When operating normally, remove fuse F6. Put your meter in place of that fuse and set on Milliamps DC. When you close the doors with the car off the meter will read over 200mA (I have an LED dome lamp - yours may vary) until the dome light shuts off. Then the meter will read about 112mA for about 40 minutes. After that the PCM goes into standby and the meter will read about 12mA steady state.

Anything else, and you have something causing a parasitic draw on the battery.

BTW, I mentioned this repair to my daughter who used to drive the car and she said “Oh, yeah. That was Bone Thugs and Harmony”

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