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I have a GE refrigerator the fridge was not cooling. I took back panel off ans saw the coils ere frozen. I changed the defrost heaters, timer and thermostat. 2 weeks later the bottom coil is a block of ice. What else could be problem?
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You've address the top three things that can cause this . I suspect it's getting overwhelmed by to much humidity leaking in so go for #4. I've also see this a fraternity houses where the door is being opened every five minutes to get another beer.
Cause 1
Defrost Timer
The defrost timer turns on the defrost heater several times throughout the day to melt any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer evaporator coils. If the defrost heater does not turn on, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils, and the coils will eventually frost over. In order for the defrost timer to turn on the defrost heater, the defrost timer must advance into the defrost cycle. If the defrost timer is not advancing properly, the defrost heater won’t turn on. To determine if the timer is defective, slowly turn the timer with a screwdriver or by hand. Turn the timer until it clicks. When the timer clicks, the compressor and fans will shut off. If the defrost thermostat and heater are working properly, the heater will turn on. If the heater turns on, this indicates that the timer is defective and must be replaced.
Cause 2
Defrost Heater Assembly
The defrost heater turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer evaporator coils. If the defrost heater does not turn on, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils, and the coils will eventually frost over. To determine if the defrost heater is at fault, use a multimeter to test the defrost heater for continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, replace it.
Cause 3
Defrost Thermostat
The defrost heater turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer evaporator coils. Before the defrost heater turns on, the defrost thermostat must sense that the evaporator coils are cold enough. If the coils are cold enough, the defrost thermostat will allow the defrost heater to turn on. (Usually, the temperature of the coils must be below 30 degrees Fahrenheit.) If the thermostat is defective, the defrost heater won’t turn on, causing the evaporator coils to frost over. To determine if the defrost thermostat is at fault, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the defrost thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.
Cause 4
Door Gasket
The door gasket prevents air from leaking into or out of the freezer. If the door gasket is torn or not creating a reliable seal, or if the freezer is not shut tightly, humid air can leak into the freezer. When this humid air passes over the cold evaporator coils, it condenses and freezes on the coils. If humid air is continually leaking into the freezer, the evaporator coils ice over too quickly, and the defrost cycle isn’t able to keep up. To determine if the gasket is creating a reliable seal, close the freezer door on a dollar bill and try to pull the dollar bill out of the freezer door. If the dollar bill sticks in place, the gasket is creating a good seal. If the dollar bill slides out or falls out, the gasket has a leak. Repeat this procedure all the way around the refrigerator door. If, at any point, the dollar bill does not stick, the gasket is defective. If the door gasket is defective, replace it.
Parts
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Hi to all you Samsung refrigerator owners. For the past year or two my coil has been freezing up about every 2 to 3 weeks. I have found that the heater is working and sending water down under my crisper. Now after this melting of the coil water builds up at the bottom of the coil and then freezes because the little metal piece is not long enough to keep the drain hole open. What i did is loosen the heater coil and pull it all the way down to the bottom of the metal cover at the bottom. The coil is touching the metal cover at the bottom and the little metal piece is now deep in the drain hole. I have not had any water under the crisper for 3 weeks now and no fan noise. Also not sure this made a difference but i took the white sensor an attached it to the pipe to the left of the original position. Good luck Samsung frig owners. Jimmy
Just wanted to add another possible cause to the leaking gasket problem. I had the ice delivery door on the external frig door stuck open with ice cubes causing air to continually leak that caused the icing over on mine. Just something simple to check first.
This might sound dumb but is the fan working?
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Symptom: lower evaporator is a block of solid ice, upper evaporator defrosting fine after heater replacement. I had the same exact symptom after replacing the defrost heaters and thermostat assembly. My model (GE TFX25JR) requires the dual heater (WR51X443). I purchased the actual GE part through e-bay. It arrived packaged and taped and appeared to be factory fresh with a dated testing tag. No sign of tampering or prior use but the heaters were installed incorrectly: the lower heater was 6 Ohms and the upper was 12 Ohms. This was opposite to the original assembly; the 12 Ohm heater needs to be at the bottom of the evaporator.
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Symptom: lower evaporator is a block of solid ice, upper evaporator defrosting fine after heater replacement. I had the same exact symptom after replacing the defrost heaters and thermostat assembly. My model (GE TFX25JR) requires the dual heater (WR51X443). I purchased the actual GE part through e-bay. It arrived packaged and taped and appeared to be factory fresh with a dated testing tag. No sign of tampering or prior use but the heaters were installed incorrectly: the lower heater was 6 Ohms and the upper was 12 Ohms. This was opposite to the original assembly; the 12 Ohm heater needs to be at the bottom of the evaporator.
由 Robert Heimbueger 完成的