lid lock bypass procedure
Amana top load washer has a 4 wire lock switch. I connect blue & white wires it will start to fill then stops & red lock light starts blinking ,then fill light blinks , that is all it does.
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Do I recommend it? NO.
The lid lock it to prevent injury to the people near the washer, as without it stopping the machine, the agitator will turn with the lid open.
So.
If you will open the top up, you should see the lid switch, and you should see the electric wires attached to it.
With the machine unplugged, you can disconnect the wires to the lid switch and attach them to themselves, and the lid switch will then be by-passed.
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Mayer, Just for my on knowledge, you recommend that Terry attach the 4 wires of his Lid Lock to themselves? The "Positive" from the control board to the Electro Magnet relay, the Negative for the Relay, The sensor wire from the control board and the sensor return.. All attached to themselves? What's gonna happen when he plugs the machine back in?
Silentthunder38 Please feel free to write a better answer. Your the one that described wiring to short it out.
What wire connect to what to bypass?
Mr. Mayer, Please clarify for me the "attach them back to themselves". I am unclear exactly how to do this.
I would really need to know the specific machine and be able to find a diagram of the wiring to give you a correct answer. Not all machines have the same colored wires. Best to identify wires with a multimeter.
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I have a Whirpool with the 4 wire switch lock. I connected the blue and white wires started a load, and waited until the lid lock red light came on. At that point the lid light makes a clicking noise. That's when I connect the red wire to the blue and white wires and wash cycle begin. Was able to wash.
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I had the same problem with my Kenmore washer I took the same steps with the wires and it worked perfectly. Thank you for your post
Sincerely Lancaster Ohio
What about the yellow wire and where did you cut them at under the lid or in the control panel.
I cut from the control panel
I bypassed the 4 wire switch where i dont have to do all that confusing stuff
I could of used a toggle switch with with blue and red on one side and red on the other. But thanks I have my switch ordered and had one load to wash while waiting. My wife is handicapped and I wash all the clothes. I could of saved 25.00.
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Even AFTER you've installed a new switch and latch, it will still do this if the WATER to the washer is turned OFF, or if there's not enough water pressure; there's a pressure-activated switch inside the washer that won't lock the door until it senses water pressure to the washer.
Check your supply water pressure, or even better, turn the water ON! You'll either be rewarded or know there's something else wrong deeper inside the machine.
Also, depending on the Amana model, this switch can have 2, 3, or 4 wires, and CANNOT BE BYPASSED BY "HOT WIRING A COUPLE OF WIRES TOGETHER" the way you could with the older washers where the switch was a simple on/off job.
These new ones have a sensor back inside the body with the controls, and if the sensor's not happy, the washer doesn't turn on.
Turn the water on, if it doesn't work, replace the switch and latch assembly, if it still doesn't work, take it to the shop. They have a tester there that gives the technician the error code he needs to fix the machine. Yeah, just like computers!
Give me a 10-year-old, non-computerized Whirlpool or Maytag any day!
Aloha, Tim........
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I have 3 wires red,blue,white what connects to what
I also have the same colors. Everything I've read had 4 colors. My washer is Amana #ntw4605ewo. This for my lid lock. If anyone knows, please answer. Thank you. Posted by denise
I only have 3 also, did you find the answer cause I can't find it, thank you
I got. 3. Do I just tie em together?? Red. White and a blue
That's mine . Red white and blue. Attempting toggle switch
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If your washer lid switch has only 2 wires going to it, AND it’s an older washer design that doesn’t lock but it stops spinning when you lift the lid, then you can connect those 2 wires together to bypass the swith. If you don’t know that GROUND is ALWAYS green then you don’t need to do any electrical DIY repairs.
Newer washers with a lid lock and indicator lights that blink, you can not bypass the switch. These have more than 2 wires because it’s not one switch. They have several switches and even a magnetic switch that is activate when the lid is closed. You can duplicate it by putting to wires together.
They are a huge inconvenience and most fail due to suds and water. Sometimes cleaning w/small brush is all it needs. If it doesn’t, you’ll need a new one. UNPLUG THE WASHER BEFORE CLEANING OR REPAIRING ANYTHING.
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My magnet has disappeared THAT interacts with that sensor can I bypass it
@Michael dimov are you referring to the magnet that is on the stricken that is located on the lid and fits inside the lock assembly when the lid is closed? If so, you can buy a striker for a few dollars on eBay. The lid locking mechanism can’t be bypassed. Every tech I know has tried and none have succeeded. Many have shorted the control boards trying to bypass the lock. The control boards are expensive. Paying a few dollars is wiser than risking blowing a board and paying $250 or more.
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I have a Maytag Bravo Top Loader Washer MVWB835DW, and the lid locking mechanism has 6 wires with 2 wires connected to a tiny electrical motor that actuates the locking bar. It wasn’t working so to work around it, I connected the white and blue wires together. These 2 wires are the sensor that checks for the lid being closed. Actually these wires are the common negative connection for the locking bar. There is a magnetic continuity circuit check done with these 2 wires before anything else in the programming. My machine has a “Sensor” light that illuminates when the connection is active, or when it thinks the lid is shut. So to start with I connected the wires together. Then there are 2 other wires, light blue and red that are not connected to the motor. The light blue wire needs to be connected with the continuity wire (white and blue) to start with when I start the machine cycle. The programming checks for this connection first. After this check, the machine will activate the 2 wires connected to the tiny motor to actuate the locking bar. Afterwards, the programming will look for the red wire connected to the continuity wire (white and blue). So the work around goes like this. Regardless of the wire color, connect the continuity wires together, and make those the common pole on a switch. Then connect the lid lock open wire to the off pole of the switch and the lid lock closed wire to the on pole of the switch. Under operation, start with the new switch in the off position, then start the machine wash cycle as you would normally do, wait a couple of seconds, and then hit new switch so that it is in the on position.
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Have a whirlpool cabrio with lid lock that light keeps flashing and unable to wash clothes
I also have a Maytag Bravo MVWB755DWO. It has a 6 wire harness and the 2 separate wires to the small motor. You describe your wires as white, blue, light blue and red . Mine are Green, White, Red, Blue, Brown and Black. Then a separate 2 wires for the motor. Any suggestions on how I would connect mine or are you describing the same setup
these are the kind of answer that gets things moving thank you very much appreciation.
My frigidaire washing machine is door luck not opening
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I’m building what I call a Universal digital logic bypass emulator controller. It will make short work of any safety . I’m tired of the techs saying it’s impossible and being Rude wile doing it . As a micro Processor engineer I’m insulted and I’m taking safety back into our own hands my next design will incorporate a nano processor that is based on C++
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@davidmcc1129 And once you design this Universal lid lock bypass, one of those Tide Pod eating fools will open the lid, and while the washer is spinning, reach in to pull out a shirt and his arm will be broken in multiple places. You’ll soon be hearing from his attorney. You’ll have everyone suing you. In fact, law suits are the reason why they keep redesigning these lid locks, people will stick their arm in a spinning washer. We can’t encourage stupid, nor can we fix it.
Techs are saying it’s impossible, not because they want to be rude. We say it because we’ve tried and have not been successful.
You could always take out the 2 screws that secure the latch to the lid, slide out the latch and put it in the lid lock. Position it in the same way it would go in if it was on the lid. The switch won’t know the lid isn’t down. You will have to pull it out when the clothes are down in order to start another load.
Lid locks are also put in now because the newer washers have no brakes to stop the tub. They need to just wind down so the lock is necessary to keepn the lawyers out!
Jeez. Give people an IQ test before selling them a washer. The gov’t has taken away all my abilities to use my washer to actually clean clothes. Less water, lid locks, etc. I used to be able to dye clothes and curtains in my washer but you can’t do that with a lid lock. Used to be able to adjust amount of water filling the tub but now the government has decided how much water is good for me. So now I wash each load twice, iron my wrinkled clothes (I used to be able to stop the spin before it wrung out everything too tight and was able to hang them on hangers to air dry - thus saving energy. But no more. After all the government knows best - right? Now I use twice as much energy and the same amount of water for a full load. Nice going dumb dumbs.
E
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This works temporarily.
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Where does the yellow wire go, in your picture?
so it looks like you did the white and blue together and then to one side of the switch and then the red to the other side of the switch? so how do you know when to flip the switch? and for how long? do you just flip it on and then back off? if so maybe a push-button switching might work better? or do you leave it on until the cycle ends and then turn it off and wait for the next cycle to start?
David. , what did you do to the yellow wire.. Just cut it off and cover the end? And .. when do you flip the switch to connect with the red.. and do you have to switch it back ever again to just the blue /white?
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Tried everything within good reason. D@mn the new Whirlfool, its made by G.D!, its going to the dump .
I will not be held hostage by a washing machine door. Im installing a older model that is not a time wasting $hit fit to repair . Nuf Said….
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I'm with you !
The red and white wires are for the lid switch. The other two wires supply voltage to the coil that is also inside the switch. These are not as simple as twist together and go as in older machines.
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Witch color wire's do you connect together to bypass the lid lock permitly
GE toploader washer was clicking (relay like clicking sound) after water filled, but washer would not starting agitate or spin cycles and after a pause displaying “end”. I assumed lid switch bad and so tried to bypass switch. My model has three wire lid (GE model# GTW680 BSJ0WS). W ire colors at the lid switch are yellow, red, and violet (purple). Per schematic diagram found on another string on ifixit.com, Red at control board is “line”, yellow is “switch input” and violet is “lock input”. I tried jumping yellow to red per schematic. Unfortunately washer still will not spin or drain and I no longer hear the lid lock relay clicking. I took out the jumper and installed a new lid switch detector assembly… but still no joy. I installed a new switch lock assy and still no workey. Afraid I burned a board connection at the control board with incorrect jumper. Any help appreciated to test the control board and or correctly jump switch end to permanently tell the control board the lid is closed and locked!!??
thanks, - wwwade
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The Service Manual shows 2 inputs: "Switch Input" (yellow) and that will be the 120VAC coming right off the line (red) going through the closed switch back to the board. The other input: "Lock Input" which comes off the line (red) through the coil of the solenoid (says 70 ohms) and back to the board. Put a 70 ohm resister across red and violet simulating the solenoid, and see what happens. If you fried the board somehow, what do you have to lose? BTW keep the yellow to red jumper there and the board should see exactly what it would see if the lid was closed and locked.
I pulled the lid-lock apart. Never saw anything so OVER-ENGINEERED or POORLY ENGINEERED. A solution in search of a problem. Was accomplished SUCCESSFULLY for MANY, MANY decades, with an open-close switch. Anyway, the little solenoid IS about 70 ohms so if you want to bypass this turd, just pull ALL that crap off, back to the main board, wire the coil across red and violet, short violet to yellow, and you're in business. P.S. Don't open the lid while this hunk of junk is hopping around the floor, and you wont get hurt.
“Best answer for most modern self-locking lids. “
Older lid switches simply cut the power to the washer or just the main drive motor.
Lids that lock, work off magnetic solenoids or by heat activated switches that lock and unlock the lids. They have third or fourth wires that feed constant current whether door open or closed to activate and deactivate the locking solenoid.
The solenoid can be made inoperable or inactive without touching the wires at all.
Modify the solenoid is one simple solution. I did mine by cutting off the solenoid plunger.
arjaysmithjr can you give a little layman explanation as to how you wire the coil across teh red and purple?
@arjaysmithjr n you give a little layman explanation as to how you wire the coil across teh red and purple?
Which two wires to I wire together for a admiral washing machine to bypass lid lock?
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it's not that simple unfortunately. You have 110 vac to fire the solenoid. This is provided by a mosfet on the main board. you have a ground and also a feedback to the microprocessor to tell it when the lid is locked or unlocked. Connecting the wrong wires together can blow either your mosfet, the port to the microprocessor or both which equals a new main board if you can't fix it. The other problem is that if you bypass to tell the micro the lid is ALWAYS closed, depending on the machine it is looking for the lid to be opened and then closed again before it will start another cycle. this means you either need to unplug the washer and wait a few minutes for it to reset between loads or install a switch somewhere to fake a lid open and then closed again signal to the microprocessor.
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I bought new switch & latch still not working
由 terry dorner 完成的
It will do this if the WATER to the washer is turned OFF, or if there's no water pressure; there's a pressure-activated switch inside the washer. Check your supply water pressure, or turn the water ON!
由 Tim Mann 完成的
we just bypassed our whirlpool HE by popping the top and cutting a plastic wine cork to hold the locking mechanism into place - $0 - 5 minute fix and it's working like a champ (and I LOVE being able to open the lid to toss in that one wayward sock!)
由 leah0222 完成的
Ok the cork trick is amazing! Thank you!
由 Kate 完成的
My Ropes washing machine. The green wash light flashes before I even start washing. The red lid lock light want come on when I start it. When I start it the green wash light comes on. It will start running the water. It stops within 10sec and stop . then the wash light start flashing again and it start clicking
由 lilcoot13 完成的
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