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Repair guides and support for Panasonic's Viera line of televisions.

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Why won't my tv turn on?

I have a 42 inch Panasonic Viera, TH-42PX80U and recently had it shipped across the country. When I brought it home and plugged it in, it is making the clicking noise as if it is going to turn on, but instead the red power light blinks 10 times. I did not see any damage to the TV after shipping, however, it seems a bit strange it only stopped working after being shipped. Is this just a coincidence in timing? Is this fixable without calling a repairman or technician? What can I do to get my tv working again!?

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clurkaiz, the 10 blinks are caused by Sub 5V SOS, Main 3.3V SOS, DTV9V SOS, Tuner SOS and most likely originate on the A board. Start with these instructions to determine which board may have failed and what is going on.

• The F+15V from the P board is the source that supplies the DC-DC converter (IC5400 and IC5401) in the A board. The A board outputs 9V, 5V, and 3.3V.

• The 9V is only used by the A board.

• The 5V, besides being used in the A board, is also distributed to the K and GH boards.

• The 3.3V is used in the A board and it’s also provided to the GH and GS boards.

• A 10 blinks code from the power LED indicates abnormalities on any of these voltages.

Troubleshooting 10 blinks Condition At Plug in

These 3 conditions can cause the TV to shutdown and the power LED to blink 10 times

1.Missing/Shorted F_STB_15V

2.Missing/Shorted SUB9V, SUB5V, and SUB3.3V

3.Wrong diagnostic by the A board

To troubleshoot a TV that is shutting down and the power LED blinks 10 times:

Find out if 15V is output at pin 7,8,or 9 of connector P6 of the P board. If no voltage is output, the P board may be defective.

If the F_STB_15V voltage is OK, it’s likely that the A board is defective.

Since some of the Sub-voltages generated by the A board are connected to the K, GS, and GH boards, it’s also likely that one of these board may cause the unit to shut down and the power LED to blink 10 times.

Disconnect connector A1/K1 to isolate the K board.

Disconnect connector A/52GS52 to isolate the GS board.

Disconnect connector A11/GH11 to isolate the GH board.

The defective board is found when the connector that provides the Sub-voltages to that board is removed and the TV no longer shuts down.

Block Image

If you need to identify the boards, connectors etc, consider adding images of the individual boards as well as the layout of the boards on the chassis. Use this guide for that.

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This is most likely caused by blown capacitors on the power board and is fairly common and results in the exact symptoms you have described (light comes on, clicks as if it is powering on but nothing happens).

It is fixable yourself if you can take the TV apart and get to the power board. Blown capacitors are easily noticeable by their rounded (inflated?) tops; they should be flat or even slightly sunken. Soldering is fairly straight forward for the average handy person as the solder points are generally quite large and well spaced (as long as you don't do any track damage while desoldering and removing the blown capacitors).

When buying replacement capacitors, purchase higher voltage ones (go one step up in availability) to limit the chance of this happening again, and note the markings on the board and capacitors themselves to ensure the correct polarity.

And yes, I would say it is just coincidence in timing. Damage in shipping is unlikely to cause this (unless there was a moisture issue or something?)

If you're not confident in attempting this yourself but can at least remove the power board yourself, your best bet is to find someone that can do it (i.e. a friend or relative who is particularly handy) or a general electrician. A specified TV repairer would charge a lot more for the same work in my experience. You are effectively diagnosing the problem yourself if you find blown capacitors, which will reduce your bill.

Good luck!

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