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Display Panel Too Dim

We have a GE Profile microwave oven that's probably 10-15 years old and the panel display has gotten very dim, and almost impossible to read during the day.

Is there a brightness control anywhere? Or do we need to replace the display?

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Thanks, Mayer! Still running my own business, I don't have time to take the unit apart ... I'll get a quote from the local appliance repair guy instead and then make the repair/replace decision.

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Mine has the same problem, came that way new. Very frustrating that I would have to pay for the repair.

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We have a GE Profile microwave oven that's probably 10-15 years old and the panel display has gotten very dim, and almost impossible to read during the day.

Is there a brightness control anywhere? Or do we need to replace the display?

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@lynnsanchez

Most probably it is aging capacitors on the control board as these affect the voltage to the display. See the answers below about possible fixes.

It's way cheaper looking for and replacing caps than buying a new? control board

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I’ll look into performing a similar operation on mine. I have not tried disassembling the unit yet, so I can’t say if the solution you found will work for me. Thanks!

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You have an aging, failing capacitor on the control board. (Capacitors can get old just sitting on the shelf). You can try to find a new control panel which will probably cost about the same as a new machine. Or, for probably under $10, you can replace all the capacitors on the board, usually three. Radio shack will usually have them in stock. You can then tell you wife what a electrical genius you are and maybe get lucky.

If you don't have a way to solder, this is a good buy in my opinion: Soldering Workstation

Soldering Workstation图片

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Soldering Workstation

$49.99

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can you tell me which capacitors? looks like there are 6

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David look for ones that are swollen or leaking.

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I took the panel out and looked for swollen capacitors but there were none. There are actually 7 of the "can" type. If I knew which ones controlled the display, I would just replace them. Or should I just replace all 7?

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C11 and c12 , c11 is a 680uf 35v cap and c12 is a 220uf 25v cap are what I'm replacing this week as soon as they are delivered. I opted for Panasonic esr caps which are more expensive but are reasonable if purchased on ebay.

These are the caps in the circuit which feed the voltages to the display .

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After pulling the panel, the print is wrong, c12 220uf is a 50v cap and not 25v as listed, so I ordered this low esr cap from ebay which I will replace when it comes in next week.

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Replace the board - $107.00 for part. Turn off power, unplug board, put i new, replug in.

I just had the same problem. Be sure to get right replacement - possible from AMAZON

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Hi @chipmaster

According to this website the manufacturer’s part number for the Microwave control is WB27T10463. (part #16 Microwave Control Panel parts diagram) Click on 2nd part #16 in the parts list to view the manufacturer’s part number as it is different to the supplier’s (PS) part number)

If you search online using the part number only you will get suppliers (example only to show the part and the cost of the part). There are other suppliers that may suit you better.

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We have a GE over the stove microwave Model jvm1790sk01 that had the same problem with the display becoming too dim to see. We took the Control Board out and removed the plastic piece that it in front of the led display and we were able to read the display almost like it was a new unit. The piece we removed was not part of the LEDs on the control board but part of the cover between the outside glass and the LEDs. It appears to discolor over time with age and heat. This might not be the answer for all units but it worked on ours and hopefully will allow us to use it for another few years.

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I tried this solution but wasn't able to get at the plastic piece referred to. What did you disassemble?

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@Carl Shiels Carl, I removed the control panel from the microwave and then removed the control board which has the LED display on it from the control board from the panel . The piece we removed is on the inside of the control pane face. This YouTube video show a similar panel being disassembled at 2:30 the the far right of the picture shows the piece we removed. I believe ours was slightly recessed but the concept is the same. Hope this helps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SYUXvH5...

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Yes, I also found that the plastic lens panel is an issue. I suppose it is possible the display itself dimmed over the years but when the lens is removed, the display is very bright - it is hard to imagine it was ever brighter. Anyway, I discovered that the plastic lens is actually two parts - the injection molded part in the front and a thin plastic film on the back. The thin film can be peeled off - since both parts are colored, I found the display looks great using just one of these parts. I suspect the injection molded part gets darker with age - it is darker than the film. I put just the film back in the hole (with a bit of silicone to hold it in) and now I can read the display just like new!

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Hi @rsmith

By “underside light” do you mean the Surface light?

If so you press the Surface light button once for a bright light, twice for the night light and a third time to turn the light off.

If this is the light you mean and it stays on regardless of how often you press the button, is the light bright or dim?

If bright there may be a problem with Relay RY8 on the control board, (if dim it is relay RY 9) being permanently operated or its’ contacts may have fused together.

Here’s a link to the service manual for your microwave oven.

On p.5-1 you’ll find the overall circuit diagram and on p.10-1 you find the schematic for the pcb.

Since changing the two capacitors didn’t make a difference you could check out the 7.5V Zener diode ZD3.

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I noticed my dimming issue was due to dust build up on the display panel. I gently unscrewed the control panel and cleaned it with a wet paper towel and fixed it perfectly.

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I just noticed the dimming issue this evening. I have the GE PVM1790DR1WW. I can get a new control board for about $230 or a remanufactured one for about $100 (with 1yr warranty). Should I take the chance with remanufactured or go with new? I haven't taken the machine apart yet to check out the previous suggestions of removing a plastic piece or cleaning dust off of the inside cover, but I'm just thinking worst case scenario to check out my options.

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I tried ordering a new replacement on-line but, after three months of being told it was on back order, I cancelled the order and got my money back. You may have better luck with remanufactured. Which ever route you go, I would be interested to know how you make out.

I had no luck with the removal of the plastic screen approach since mine didn't seem to have such a part or at least I wasn't able to find it.

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I ended up getting new (for $238...that hurt a bit) just for my peace if mind. I got it off of Amazon. When I first looked, he had 6 left and when I ordered, he was down to 3. It took 3 or 4 days to get and I put it in today. However, although it looks easy in videos, I ran into a slippery connector that I finally used pliers to help remove (thought it would never come off). Then it was tough getting that ribbon cable all the way into the connector on the new board. Just when I thought I was done, I just couldn't get the panel to slide into place completely...hung up somewhere on the right side (which is next to a wall so I couldn't look over there). It finally slipped into place, I plugged in the unit and everything worked perfectly. I looked down on my table and sitting next to the screwdriver was the schematic that had been folded up inside the control panel! It's now in a drawer...lol!

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I’m going to disassemble my microwave and check the tinted lenses first but I’m going to replace the capacitors if that’s not the issue For people that aren’t comfortable trying to solder the new capacitors into the board there are companies all over that do circuitboard repair of any kind they just go in and test the individual components and replace the ones that are not functioning properly I’ve done it for some very expensive printers where the boards cost thousands of dollars and the repairs were a couple hundred

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