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Whirlpool dryer stopped working...

I have the Whirlpool Model: WED4900XW0, when I press the start button I hear the click and when I shut the door I also hear the door click. So I am assuming that it's not the door switch or the start button.

My husband replaced the thermal fuse and it started working again but only for about three loads. He cleaned all of the hoses and filters and replaced the fuse again. Again, it worked for about three loads and stopped working again. I'm assuming that if he replace the fuse again it'll work again for about a week and then stop again.

I'm not sure what could be causing this, it doesn't seem that it would be another part if the fuse continuously blows. Also, when he replaced the fuse the second time, he said that it didn't look blown, however, the first time it did look blown.

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What did the continuity check show on the fuse?

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I have a similar problem, but I tested my thermostat and there is continuity. I just replaced the first again and now my dryer stopped working. What else could be wrong? Please help.

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I replace the element the two fuses or thermostats the fuse and it's still not heating up

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Check both lines of power. One is probably not right.

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Same problem replaced thermal fuse, hi temp fuse above heating element and thermostat cutout . Run 3 loads through it and it quit again. Took back apart thermostat cutout and thermal fuse bad again. By the way the cabinet gets very hot to the touch. It also seems to have good air flow.

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The heating element assembly warms the air before it enters the dryer drum. Over time, the heating element can burn out, causing the dryer not to heat. To determine if the heating element assembly has burned out, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the heating element assembly does not have continuity, replace it.

Heating Element Assembly for your Dryer

Heating Element Assembly - Part # 2438 Mfg Part # 279838

RepairClinic Item #2438

Dryer heating element. If your dryer does not heat first check for a blown thermal fuse on the blower housing before replacing the heating element. In most cases the heating element will have a break in the element if defective.

The thermal fuse is a safety device designed to protect the dryer from overheating. The fuse is located on the blower housing or at the dryer’s heat source such as the heating element on electric dryers or at the burner on gas models. The fuse should be closed for continuity meaning it has a continuous electrical path through it when good. If overheated the fuse will have no continuity meaning the electrical path is broken and the fuse has blown out. A multimeter can be used to test it for continuity. Be aware that a blown thermal fuse is an indication of a restricted exhaust vent from the dryer to the outside. Always check the dryer venting when replacing a blown thermal fuse.

High Limit Thermostat for your Dryer

High Limit Thermostat - Part # 898078 Mfg Part # 3977767

RepairClinic Item #898078

Dryer high-limit thermostat, L250-80, with terminal extension arm. This thermostat should be closed for continuity at room temperature and opens at around 250 degrees Fahrenheit. If the dryer won't heat, the high-limit thermostat might be defective.

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The heating element on these dryers are garbage. They are about 15 bucks if you get them direct from China, so figure 3-5 years is a pretty good deal. If Whirlpool was really doing a service for their customers, they would include a spare in the original box.

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Heater won't turn off.

Have to unplug from wall to turn it off

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